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Thanks for the reply. Two days ago the CEL is gone, I thought it should be Ok but I was wrong it came back after three days. I will try what you are suggesting to do. Thanks again.

Thanks for replying. "All Data" drawings shows that bank 2 sensor 1 is in the front of the engine, while bank 1 sensor 1 is close to the firewall. Looking at AutoZone drawing shows bank 1 sensor 1 is in the front of the engine. Anybody knows which is correct? By the way, I did not buy the sensor from AutoZone. Unfortunately I threw away the old sensor.

Check engine light indicate malfunction of oxygen sensor 1 bank 1. I replaced the sensor but the check engine light is still on. I have Autozone check it again and it is still the oxygen sensor 1, bank 1. Anybody knows what is going on? I tried disconnecting the battery to reset the CEL but the light comes on after a day or two. Any thoughts on this one.

To date I haven't installed the oxygen sensor that I bought. It seems that the injector cleaner (Lucas from Autozone) that I put and resetting the Check Engine Light (ECL) by removing the battery terminal did the work. This will give me time for State Inspection.

I finally decide to change the front motor mount since I have the parts. Sure enough the motor mount is really bad. So, guys if you have to replace torque strut, most probably the front motor mount is also bad, replace it. If you don't, you will see a premature failure of your radiator upper hose connection in time. You will end up replacing the radiator. That's what happened to me.

After buying the motor mount on Ebay, I found out that the torque strut is broke. I replaced the torque strut and found out that this probably is the problem. I don't see any engine movement now when I press the accelerator, which led me to believe that the front motor mount is OK. Are there any other test for the front motor mount? Regarding my question, yes, you can remove the motor mount without removing any parts. It's tricky though. Remove the rubber covering of the motor mount to give you more clearance. I have not really done the installation of this motor mount, but if I have to do it, here's the procedure. 1. Lift the car through the center of the front cross member. Provide a good car jack stand on each side for safety. 2. Remove plastic covering underneath to gain access to one bolt of the motor mount. 3. Remove one bolt underneath probably 14mm socket. 4. Remove remaining bolts on top. The center bolt is 17mm and the remaining two are 14mm. 5. Utilizing another jack, put 2x4 piece of wood under the oil pan and lift the engine just to a point that you can remove the motor mount. 6. Once the old part is removed, the procedure for installing the new part is the reverse.

Hi Everyone, My 94 ES300 front motor mount need to be replaced. Can anyone tell me what is involved before I start working on it. Do I have to remove the radiator to get the mount out? It looks like I do not have clearance without removing it. Don't know if this particular model requires hydraulic or rubber mount. Any input with regards to this will be greatly appreciated. Manny

Hi LL, Thanks for replying . I just bought the oxygen sensor from Ebay for $35.96 free shipping. I will replace Bank 1 Sensor 1 (B1S1). I don't know if I have to replace B1S2. The only thing that worries me is this sensor that I bought is a no name brand, it might not last longer than Denso or Bosh. Well, anyway I will try to install this. For the model I have, it looks like I can replace this on top without lifting the car. B1S1 is located close to the firewall based on All Data parts location drawing. I saw a drawing on this forum for 1997 the location of B1S1 is close close to radiator. I think that is wrong. My record shows I just replaced all my spark plugs at 136,000 miles. I will reset my CEL and see if the injector cleaner that I put works. Thanks again. Have a nice day!! Manny

Hi Guys, I have a 94 ES300, 171,000 miles. The trouble shooting code indicates P0171. Probable causes: a. MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor. b. Oxygen Sensor Defective c. Ignition misfire d. Fuel injection problem Where will I start diagnosing the problem. I don't want to change the bank 1 oxygen sensors without exactly knowing that is the problem. The oxygen sensors are expensive. I already start adding injector cleaner to my gas tank which is the least expensive. Any taker on this one? Hope to hear from you guys soon. Manny

I found the oil leak. It's coming from the power steering high pressure hose. The cost to replace it, around $150 parts and labor. So guys if you have a small drops of oil from the passenger side inspect the power stirring high and low pressure hoses.

Hi Manny. I'm not sure about your filter question, but I can tell you that my Lexus dealer suggest I change my oil once a year based on my 12,000 miles per year driving. Paul Hi Paul. Thanks for replying. That is actually what I am doing changing my oil yearly as long as I don't go over 7,000 miles during the year. The key to engine life is oil change. That is why I have cars that go over 250,000 miles with no problem with the engine. Thanks again and you have a nice day!! Manny

Hi Manny. I'm not sure about your filter question, but I can tell you that my Lexus dealer suggest I change my oil once a year based on my 12,000 miles per year driving. Paul

Hi Guys, I have a 94 ES300 that is leaking oil on the passenger side of the engine. No leaks on the oil drain plug, oil filter, and the valve cover. Before I power wash the underside of the engine, are there any thoughts about where the oil leak might be? Hope to hear from you guys.

Hi, I have a 2007 ES350 that I seldom drive. I have another Lexus ES300 and a Honda and I am retired. The odometer of the 2007 ES350 is only 14,000 miles. I have change the oil myself at 3,258; 8,181; 10,038 and 13,224. I use Castrol synthetic oil 5-30. Am I overdoing the oil change? If the manufacturers says 7,000 miles per oil change, which I don't normally follow and change it every 3,000 miles. What is the max time I have to change oil assuming I put only less than 2,000 miles. Is 12 months OK. Every 4 months irrespective of mileage might be overkill. The cost of oil change doing it myself is only $35.00 and probably 20 minutes of my time. What are your opinions guys. Here's another issue on oil change. Whenever I remove the filter drain or housing cap the whole filter casing rotates. So I just end up replacing the filter and the big "O" ring. Should I put the filter housing on a vise and remove the housing cap for me to replace the small "O" ring? Is this necessary if there's no oil leak? Your thoughts please. Manny

I finally got my brake warning light to turn off. I have a rubber hose to the caliper leaking fluid. I end up changing that and it solved the problem. You are right DBrucher. If you have a small leak in the system it will trigger the warning light. So guys if your brake warning light is on, it means there is something wrong in your brake system. The handbrake switch seldom breaks.

I tried that nothing happens. I think I have to trace the wiring for the handbrake switch. I probably have to remove the console to get into the switch. Thanks for the reply.

Hi, I need some guidance from you guys on how to proceed on solving my handbrake warning light staying on. I suspect the handbrake switch or the brake fluid sensor switch might be shorted. Can somebody point me where to find the repair on the All Data site. Hope to hear from you guys.

I finally got my power window installed. Here's the installation procedure for people who wants to do it themselves: 1. Remove door panel. 2. Remove motor (disconnect wiring) 3. Remove motor bracket (disconnect wiring to door lock) 4. Support window with a piece of wood. Now you can remove the two bolts connected to the regulator and then remove the remaining two bolts with plastic inserts. 5. Remove the wood support and let the glass window all the way down. Remove the stopper and the two brackets with felt that hold the window in place. The glass window can now be removed by tilting to the lock side and pulling it up clearing any obstructions. 6. Remove the window regulator (four bolts) 7. Install the new window regulator with motor. Remember to put some grease on all the tracks. 8. Install motor bracket. 9. Connect power to motor. Test movement of the regulator and put it all the way down. 10. Now put the glass window back all the way down. 11. Install two brackets with felt back. 12. Install stopper, don't tighten it yet. 13. Move the regulator up or down to align the glass window holes for the bolts. 14. Once the four bolts are installed, try the operation of the window. 15. Adjust window through the stopper. 16. If everything is properly aligned, tighten all the bolts. 17. Replace the panel. That's all it is to it. Cost of regulator with motor on Ebay---$62.00 Dealer cost with installation----------$800.00 plus Gratification in doing it yourself------Priceless

Thanks again for replying. Unfortunately, I check my ebay and the guy who is sending the regulator will be back 14th of this month. That means I will be receiving this on the 20th of the month. I don't think this guy will get a good feedback from me. Right now my wife is using the car with the window up supported by a piece of wood. I will update this thread when I finish installing the window regulator. Thanks again and have a nice day.

I don't think you could remove the regulator without removing the glass. I will figure it out when I receive my regulator. Thanks anyway for your help.

Thanks for replying. The cable that connects to the plastic on the regulator broke, so the cable is screwed up. I ordered the window regulator with motor on Ebay for $62.00 including shipping. My problem is the procedure on removing the existing window regulator. I know I have to remove the glass before I can remove the regulator. I can see that I have access to all the bolts to the glass except one, which is behind the rail. I can remove this using a wrench. Am I doing the right thing. Have you done this before on this particular model? I don't have service manual on this car.

Hi Guys, The back door window of my 94 Es300 just suddenly drop down. It looks like it has cable to open and close the window. Is the motor shut? Right now when I activate the switch,the travel of the cable is only 2 to 3 inches. What makes the window to travel upward? Is it the cable? I could open the other door and see how it works, but I won't do that until I hear from you guys. I am beginning to hate my Lexus. I just finished repairing the instrument cluster of this one. Hope to hear from you guys.

I don't have the LED bulbs yet. But when I install this in the socket I will make sure I know which is positive and negative point in my cluster. A tester could easily determine the ground point which will be my negative point. Mark that on the cluster and insert your socket accordingly. I don't know if the led bulb I am getting will indicate positive or negative point. If not, I will test the bulb through my battery to determine positive or negative point. I will post again when I am done with this.

Thanks Kingjack for responding. Yes, I was able to remove it using a small nail claw. Once you have remove it the first time it will be easy to remove it the second time with your hand. I am replacing the gauge needle and Ebay is selling it for $34. Since the instrument cluster is out, I am also changing the back lighting for my speedometer and the RPM. It requires 8 bulbs. The existing bulbs are incandescent I am changing it with LED. I just bought from Ebay 10 sets of T5 74 super white 3 chip smd LED for $12.99 free shipping and also bought 10pcs of LED white for $3.79 free shipping. I will try both and see which is better. I bet the expensive one is better. For those of you who wants to remove the instrument cluster, go Lexucan post. The post will tell you what to do and what not to do. I made a mistake of moving the car inside the garage without the instrument cluster connected, now I have to reset the airbag light. I still don't know how. I will try to disconnect the battery and reconnect after 30 minute and see what happens.