TheeSlowPoke

Thanks! Here are a couple pics showing the starter contacts. The kit was $93 and included the contacts, the plunger and the intake manifold gaskets.

I just rebuilt the starter in my 1999 and when I put it all back together, it wouldn't start. It turned out that I forgot to reconnect the solenoid wire connector (this is a plastic connector, not the main power wire that is held on with a 14 mm nut). Before I took it back apart, the starter relay would click and there was a whirring noise coming from the starter (perhaps it was spinning - I don't know). Anyway, it sounded kind of funny and didn't stop until the key was turned all the way OFF. After I reconnected the solenoid connector, it works great! Good luck!

Spins like a top, now! As soon as I pulled the intake back off, I noticed that I somehow forgot to plug in the solenoid wire connector. I put it all back together and this time it starts perfectly. I didn't have the torque specs for the cross tube nor for the intake. I had to re-use the cross tube gasket "and have my fingers crossed that it won't leak". I put new intake gaskets on and torqued to 18 ft-lbs, not knowing. I thought I was doing big things by showing my 14 yr old son how to do this. But, I think I traumatized him by having him included in this effort. Poor guy, he was totally deflated that it wouldn't start after the first attempt. He had to go to bed, as it was getting late - I told him to not feel bad and that it just means we (I) get to learn something more. It's all back together - when he gets up tomorrow morning it will look the same as when he went to bed, except now it starts!

Well, I had to try it about 10 times before it actually started yesterday. I had ordered the starter kit a while back, "just in case". So, today I took it apart and found the contacts to indeed be worn and only making contact in a couple places. Figured ah ha, that has to be it. I replaced the contacts and the plunger. Put it all back together and nothing. Well, not nothing but, not starting. The starter relay clicks. It also sounds like the starter solenoid is trying to pull in but just isn't quite making it. Too bad I filled it with anti-freeze before trying it! Oh well, back at it...

Do you have your window down or door open when you try to start? If not, you probably won't hear the "click" the starter makes. I have the same issue with my '99 LS400. For me, it is probably the starter solenoid. But, as long as it starts I plan to just keep on going.

New battery measured 3.3 Vdc - just FYI

New battery - remote works.

After charging the battery over night, I haven't had a problem since. As the weather is starting to warm up, it may take a while for the battery to discharge again. I have never had a car behave like that due to a low battery. It could be a loose connection. I checked the easy to get at connections and am too lazy to search further until it happens again.

I didn't replace the batteries for 2 reasons: 1. They both quit working (actually I only used one of them a couple times when I first got the car and then didn't try it until the first remote quit working). Since neither key would work, I figured it probably wasn't the key. 2. I checked the battery (it is a 3 V battery) and found it to be at 2.87 volts. I would think at >90% charge, the battery would still do its job. Maybe not, though. I will get a new battery and try it - they are cheap. The only dumb question is the one that is not asked. Thanks!

I read through 4 pages of the "Keys" posts and again ran into "flood something something - try again in 17 seconds" and didn't find anything that matched exactly with my problem... My keys don't remotely work, they quit working all at once about a year ago. I have been opening my doors and trunk the old fashion way, i.e. by using the key as a key rather than as a remote. As I was Searching the site for other issues, I ran across the key posts and became intrigued. What are the recommended steps for getting the key fobs to work again? Since both keys stopped at the same time, is it a key issue or a transponder issue (kind of points to the transponder)? Is there an easy way to find out?

There are around 140,000 miles on it. When I said nothing happens, I mean nothing, no click, no nothing (I must say I didn't pay attention to the dash when this happened - so, I can't say whether any lights were on/off, or whatever). It was like it was charging up each time I tried to start it - I know that makes no sense, but that is what it was like. Nothing, a little and then normal - sounds like either a bad connection (but I would think it would go the other way, i.e. the more you try it the higher the temp and resistance) or a bad cell in the battery, perhaps. The battery may be going bad. I put a trickle charge on it last night (started below 2 amps ~1 A). This morning it was charging at around 3 amps. Now that I think about it, I should have put it on boost for a few minutes just to get the electrolyte moving a bit in case there are any flaking plates. I may try that later, if needed. Car started like normal after removing the charger. Car started like normal the 6 times I had to start it today. When I got home, I checked the voltage with the engine on = 14.17 volts. I checked the voltage with the engine off = settled down to 13.15 volts. At this point, it is hard to say. I only brought it up with you folks in case this was a common issue that was heading in a known direction. I will update the post as it progresses.

Most times when I start the engine, it fires up no problem. Ocassionally when I turn the key, it does nothing. Turn the key again, and it may start, do nothing, or slowly turn the engine over. If it didn't start or turned over slowly, then third time it spins over like nothing was wrong. I did try searching for "start" and got through 4 of the 6 lists. When trying to view pages 5 and 6 the search comes up with a Ooops and a time to wait for the next search - couldn't get past page 4. Thanks in advance for your help!

Got in ready to go to work this morning - key worked to get into car, steering wheel adjusted upon putting the key into ignition but, key wouldn't turn to allow starting the car. After a little searching this website, discovered the steering wheel cannot have any pressure on it in the locked position. Remembered turning the wheel to the locked position after turning the car off last night. Re-inserted key, relieved pressure on steering wheel and wha-la, key turns. Thanks for the wonderful website! TheeSlowPoke

Was just quoted $113.63 for both motor mounts (Part No. 12361-50100) and $40.30 for the transmission mount (Part No. 12371-50060) from LEXUSPARTSMALL.com for my 1999 LS 400. However, I have been convinced, in my case, I don't have motor mount nor transmission mount problems, yet.

I haven't verified it yet, but my understanding is that there is an added benefit to using synthetic oil in cold climates. The synthetic oils don't "gell" up, i.e. get real thick, when cold. Is there any truth to this? No matter what car I have had where I usedconventional oil, cold starts seem to be tough on them. I say this because of how hard, and slow, they turn over in the extreme cold. I haven't switched over to the synthetics, yet, because even with the many cold starts, I have not had any failures of any of my previous vehicles that was due to oil problems.

My needle runs exactly where yours is shown. Wow, 28 mpg while cruising at 75 to 80. Are there any hills down there?

She is smooth as silk when sitting still. I guess my rump is a little too sensitive. I chased a vibration in my old '94 Cad Deville for 3 years before it showed up as a bad rear wheel bearing.

Thanks for the responses! kc92hatch, you are right - I am constantly looking for problems. It's my nature! As for the T-stat, I think it is OK. I will be able to tell better this winter. If the T-stat is stuck open, then it won't warm up in the Minnesota cold. Besides the vibration I am chasing in another post, the decision whether, or not, to go synthetic oil and tranny oil is next. Again, I will review what is written about the oils before posting. My last tank of gas resulted in 24 mpg. I can live with that. :) Thanks again, TheeSlowPoke

I have read through many posts - you guys are FULL of information, wow! My wife says I spend way too much time reading through the information. I have read that the thermostat in these cars is something that goes bad often. In one or more of the posts I read that an indication of a bad T-stat is less than 1/2 way up on the temp gauge. My LS 400 runs dead on the second tick of the temperature gauge. That is below 1/2 way up, does that mean my T-stat is bad? The gas mileage is around 23 mpg when averaging 45 mph. Most of my driving is highway, but the part that is city driving is plagued with stop signs and stop lights. Thanks for your insights, TheeSlowPoke

Sorry for adding another thread about motor mounts and tranny mounts but, can we list the symptoms of bad motor mounts and symptoms of bad tranny mounts? IF not, THEN I will continue my tedious searching through all the previous posts. Thanks, TheeSlowPoke

Thanks for the replies! I have Bridgestone Turanza LSV tires on stock rims. I don't believe I have a bent rim as that would cause vibration whether cold or not. I have never had Turanza tires before, so I guess they could be taking a set from sitting. That would explain how cold comes into play and how after a short while the vibration goes away. Can I be so lucky? How would the engine or transmission mount cause this vibration? OK, here is another thing that may come into play. I back out onto the street and start out down the road. After 10 yards, or so, I hear a "tink" sound. Kind of sounds like exhaust when it is real hot and contracting during cooldown, only more substantial because I hear it with the windows rolled up. I just bought this car a month ago. It looks like it hit the ditch backwards once as the driverside muffler has a heavy dent in it from the rear and there is a scrape under the car up to about the front seat. TheeSlowPoke

Newbie with question on vibration in a 1999 LS 400. Recently the weather has chilled a bit and when I start out in the morning I feel a vibration in the seat and floor. No, it's not me shivering! It seems to get worse up until 30 to 35 mph. After driving a couple miles, the vibration goes away completely. I didn't notice the vibration until it got cold outside. I have only had this vehicle for <2000 miles. This is the first rear drive car in quite a long while for me and I suspect the vibration is coming from the drive shaft. Has anybody else had this problem and if so, what was it caused by? TheeSlowPoke