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ksJoe

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  • Lexus Model
    is350

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  1. Here's something you could try - Inflate your tires to about 3-5psi BELOW where you want them to be. Reset the pressure monitor (so it thinks that is all the way up). Fill your tires the rest of the way up to where you want them. Now instead of the light coming on when you lose 4 psi, it come on when you lose 7-9 psi.
  2. Does the ECU keep a history of when the oil change indicator was reset? Granted that's not proof, but it is a historical record. I doubt anyone really keeps receipts.
  3. Are you using 5w20 or 5w30? The manual for my 06 IS350 says to use 5w30, but Lexus issued a TSB saying 5w20 is ok. The 5w30 should be a little less prone to consumption (not that either should be consumed...) One other thought, you could try using a good conventional oil instead of synthetic. There is a lot of debate about this, and many people are adamant that synthetic oil is not more prone to consumption. But I've seen several people report seeing more oil consumed with synthetic than conventional. IMO, synthetic is probably more prone to consumption under some circumstances, or in some engines. Just something else to try. I doubt the manual is a misprint. The drive train warranty is 70,000 miles. If driven hard or abused, the engine could be pretty worn by then. If the consumption exceeds what they say is ok, they'd probably have to rebuild the engine under warranty. So that spec is probably the threshold for the engine being screwed beyond its useful life, rather than a normal or good amount of consumption. Its possible this didn't really hurt anything. It sounds like it never sucked air, so it always had enough oil. The problem is, that one quart of oil took a real beating. It would have been recirculating very quickly and been very hot since it didn't get a chance to cool in the sump before getting used again (your temp gauge wouldn't read high – thats the coolant temp, but the oil temp would have been high). If this happened with a cheap oil, I bet you would be replacing the engine now. But mobil 1 is a great oil, and some people go 20k on it. You could call the the dealer and speak to a tech about how much consumption they've seen. Ask him if he's seen 1 quart per 1000 miles. If you talk to a tech, or send a sample off, I'd be curious to hear the reply. BTW, after reading this thread, I checked the oil my IS before driving it today :) I got a couple months ago, and put synthetic oil it in 1000 miles ago. It was right at full, but I think I had it slightly overfull to start with, so its either slop or its consumed 3-4 ounces.
  4. One more question – what did that quart of oil look like? Did it look normal, or was it nasty? When you do an oil change, not all of it comes out. If the old oil looked really bad, you might ought to change it again soon (give enough time for the new oil to clean things up). Since you're asking about the dealer checking for damage... After you put a couple thousand miles on the new oil, I suggest you send a sample off for analysis. I see 3 general possibilities: 1 – no damage at all. 2 – more wear than normal, for example maybe the engine will only last 200,000 miles instead of 300,000. 3 – severe wear, and its days are numbered. I doubt its #3, but the oil analysis will give you a clue if it is. I've never sent a sample off for analysis myself. The ones I've read online have personalized comments and advice in them. I suggest when you send in the sample explain what happened, and that you don't have a sample from the previous oil. But you're looking for signs of engine damage now. If that sample has abnormally high metal content, thats a bad sign. If you explain what happened, they can give you some good advice. To get a sample without draining all the oil, loosen the filter cap and catch in a clean container.
  5. If it sucked air, the light should have / would have come on. If it was not getting any oil, the engine would fry very quickly. I would guess in 15 miles, give or take 15. But I've never tried it, so I don't know :) This is just a guess, but since you didn't have the oil light come on, I'd guess you never sucked air. The pump probably sucks the oil from very low in the oil pan, and it probably always had oil to suck. If that's the case, that would explain how you only got one quart out, but the engine isn't destroyed. Why are you saying it was a quart? Did you measure it, or are you guessing? I have a hard time judging how much is coming out when its coming out, so if you're just guessing, maybe its more like 2? The dealer can check compression, but I doubt there would be a problem there. I would expect the damage, if any, is in the main & rod bearings, and camshaft. I've not looked closely at the valve covers on mine, but it may not be a lot of work to pull them off and look at the cam. Do you still have the oil you took out? If so, you can send it a lab for analysis. Its only about $25. They give you back a report on how much metal is in it, how much life the oil has in it, etc. Blackstone is one I've heard people use: http://www.blackstone-labs.com/
  6. Are you assuming that if you're a quart low the oil pressure is slightly reduced; two quarts low and its lower yet; 3 quarts low and its even lower? It doesn't work that way. As long as the oil pump can suck a steady supply of oil... The pressure will be fairly consistent. It will increase/decrease some with the engine's RPM, be a little lower when the engine is warm vs. cold, etc. But overall it will be very steady. You'll see no difference in oil pressure by being a quart low. When the oil pump sucks air, your pressure goes to 0, and the engine will fry very quick. On an old high mileage engine, with a worn oil pump, sometimes it won't pump enough anymore. Then the oil light may come on at idle (regardless of how full it is). If you only got 1 quart out of it, I'm surprised it didn't fry the engine. That quart of oil is probably in very bad shape. The oil wouldn't get a chance to cool off in the sump, so the oil temp was probably way to high. I assume you've already thrown out the oil? It would be interesting to send a sample in for analysis and see how bad it is...
  7. Did they say why they need replaced? If its because they're warn thin, they can take you back and show you as they measure. If its because of physical damage (cracked, etc) they can show you that too. If its because they're warped, you should be able to feel it.
  8. So the jack goes under the rear differential? I had a hard time figuring it out by the picture also, I've just been putting the floor jack under where the suspension attaches.
  9. We all have block heaters here.They only help the car to start when its very cold.It still takes at least 10 minutes to warm up inside.I talked to my dealer & this is the way it is.I would have not bought this car if I had known this.IT SUCKS Here's how to solve it: Get BOTH keys. Once you start up the car, place one key in the ash tray or cupholder, or out of site. Take the other key with you out of the car. Once you close the door, lock it with the button on the second key fob (not the button on the door handle). The car will lock. But even if it locks, since the other key fob is within range, won't it unlock if someone touches the sensor on the door handle?
  10. Sure, I popped mine apart a few days after I got it, just to see what kind of battery it has. The key fob is two pieces that snap together. Remove your hard key (emergency door key) from the fob, and look where the key came out of it. See the crack around in the middle? Thats where the two parts separate. See the widening of the crack right on the corner? Thats where you pry it apart. Stick the tip of your hard key in there and gently twist it. It will pop apart. You'll see the large button battery. Pay attention to way it goes in, so you can put the new in correctly. To put it back together, make sure the circuit board is place, and line up the two pieces of the key fob, then gently press them together. It will snap back together.
  11. I took my used (previously programmed and cut) key fobs to my dealer today. When I called before they said if they can program them easily it would be around 53. But sometimes when people buy them online they have to reset more stuff, and then its 135. I was assuming I'd be paying $135 to get it done. When I brought it in today, they didn't ask where I got them, so I didn't mention it. After about a half hour they came and asked where I got them because they were having problems. So I told them I got them off ebay, and they said ok the probably need to unprogram them for the previous car, then try to program them for my car. I asked if he know if that would work and he said "I don't know, I'll just have to try it and see". Another half hour and they came back and said they couldn't get it to work. Then he said they could reset the entire ECU - just like if I lost all the keys. That would run around $230, and they thought that would probably do it, but wouldn't make any promises. So if it didn't, I'd be out $230, and still not have accomplished anything. So instead I ordered a new key ($190) and it should be here in a couple days. He said that their time for messing around today should have been 72, but since they didn't accomplish anything, he marked it down to 48. And that guy was probably working on it a full hour. From what I had read here I was a bit suspicious about dealers trying to push people to buy new fobs from them just because they can. But it was obvious these guys were really trying to get them work, and felt bad about charging me when it didn't.
  12. Just signed up so I can comment... A week ago I bought a 06 IS350 with one key. So I've been looking into getting more. I've bought two used keys on Ebay, but haven't gotten them yet. What my local dealer said, is its $53 to program car if they can "just do it". And when they're doing it, it doesn't matter how many, so programming several is the same cost as programming one. He said sometimes when people get keys on the internet they have some issues (possibly if its been programmed to another car? he didn't give the cause). But then they have to call lexus and get a new seed value and reseed something (on the car I assume?). That cost $135. So I'm hopeful that my ebay remotes will be programmed for $53 or $135. But based on what he told me, a used remote should at worst mean it takes a little more work. Please update us with what happens.
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