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gs_1993

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Everything posted by gs_1993

  1. A very sad day has come. My head gasket developed a leak, and when I had a mechanic take a look at it, he discovered it had previously been replaced with a non-OEM hg. Along with this, the head had warped, yet was not machined, so the block became warped after the repair. I can't afford to have a new engine put in, so I'm parting it out. It has 155,000 miles on it, and I've put about $3000 into it since I bought it, including the Lextech blue needle tachometer replacement. If you need any parts or have any questions, email me at jdunaway@calpoly.edu with a price, and I will post it on eBay with a buy-it-now price, and will provide you a link. I'm located in San Luis Obispo, CA (but will keep the parts in the Bay Area) if you'd like to locally pick anything up. Any price will be accepted, thanks.
  2. Bought a 1993 SC300 5-speed manual all stock during summer 2009. bought for $5000, had 143,000 miles on it. Problems: Immediate services done by toyota mechanic, new radiator, plugs and wires, vcg, fluids flushed, and some minor stuff for $1400. New tires as well for about $500. So all in all $7000 after registration fees. Took a year of non-stop saving as I'm 22. I switched to mobil-1, seems to burn about a quart of oil every 300-500 miles. Started putting the dextron-III in power steering as recommended, seems to go through it pretty quickly. I was told by a mechanic to not use that, as it swells up the seals, but too late. Also, I'm not sure why people say that the power steering reservoir leaks on the alternator, but my alternator is on the other side of the engine block, as it definitely is constantly leaking. More problems (minor): Clutch will have to be replaced for second time of car's life soon (at 150,000 now). They don't seem to last too long, as I'm pretty easy on it. Car's synchros grind if you shift quickly, especially into second. I've learned to shift slower, and it feels fine. Needles burnt out of course. Power mirror cpu doesn't work. MAJOR pita, little plastic door opening clip broke, went to replace it, broke the metal part, had to buy a used door locking mechanism (new are $300) for $40, and $200 in labor to install it, as it was impossible for me to get to with limited tools. CD player sometimes freezes. Likes/Dislikes: Seats are a little small (I'm 6'0"), sluggish in lower rpm's, nose heavy, doesn't handle like my friends 325is or wrx, a little noisy, rev's at 3000 rpm in 5th at 70 mph, a little high in my opinion, as it only gets about 22 mpg on the highway. Other than that, for a college student, this is the most amazing car I think I could afford. It's reliable, fast, and comfortable. Gas mileage is terrible, but I figured if I got a 325is/328is, it'd only be a little better, yet I'd be dealing with many more problems. I would not suggest buying the auto version of this car. My mom has a 1993 GS300, and it's so much more quiet, spacious, and comfortable. Buy this car if you want a cheap car with a mix of sport/luxury, hopefully with the intent of popping a 2jz-gte in it one day, it's a pretty good car.
  3. Hi, So i pulled off my door panel, and found out that the infamous little plastic clip had broken. When i tried attaching the new one, I managed to break the entire metal piece that the clip clips onto. I then bought this mechanism that sits in between the door panel and the outside of the door, near the very end of the door, from a junkyard, and have no idea how to install the new one. I can't reach my hand in the little cavity to pull the old one out, so I was wondering if anyone has successfully pulled apart the metal pieces to get to this part, and which screws to remove (keep in mind I've already removed the door panel). Thanks for your help in advance.
  4. And how much did you put in after the change? 4 Qrts. What Eng do you have. What's with the 10W? And by the way; what's the total capacity of oil for your eng? The engine holds 5 quarts, so you were not low because you used it, but because you never had it. My manual said 4.1 quarts with the filter. I forgot to convert imperial to US, which would make it 5 quarts.
  5. Hey all, I have a 93' sc300 5 speed with about 145K on it. I just switched it to mobile 1 10w-30 from regular valvoline, and i somehow went through about 1 quart (I put 4 quarts in it initially) in about 3 miles. I couldn't understand this, so i checked the drain plug, no leaks, and tightened the oil filter by hand even more (it budged a little bit tighter). I've had to add about a quart every 1000 or so miles before, so i was wondering if anyone made the switch to synthetic and had a crazy amount of oil consumption initially (ive driven it about 10 more miles and it doesnt seem to have used up any more oil). Also, the tachometer and speedometer gauges are burnt out of course, but every once in a while, if i push in the brake or clutch, the tachometer gauge will light up for a second, then die. Any ideas? doesnt really sound burnt out to me, just a short somewhere thats not allowing it to get any electricity. Let me know if you've experienced similar problems. Thanks.
  6. So I found a $5000 1993 SC 300 with about 140k on craigslist, and decided to go for it and trade out my 1993 GS 300. The previous (and first) owner maintained this thing very well, writing down every service he had ever had done. Lucky for me, it was a 5-speed. So a few issues with the car: After a mechanic check: water pump leaking t-belt needs replacement tach/speedo needles burnt out climate control screen bleeding out side mirror motors dont work vcg leaking oil radiator old and cracking (little skeptical on this) last but DEFINITELY not least, hard to put the car in gear (1st and 2nd) when warming up, and it grinds at times when I shift into 2nd gear, no matter how warm or cold the car is (feels like I'm jamming it into gear, even around 2000-3000 rpm. Anyways, best mechanic I've ever had, taken cars in for years and they've always pinched pennies for me, said the grinding wasn't anything to worry about immediately. Quoted at $1400 for radiator replacement, t-belt, spark plugs, and vcg. So my questions are: did anyone have a good experience sending the instrument panel to lextech.org? Also, what exactly would the grinding be (I was too busy getting quotes to ask for details about the grinding)? Lastly, anyone ever fixed the mirror problem?
  7. He's right, DO NOT buy the Xenon bulbs by themselves for $10-$20 off ebay, I bought 9006 6000K low beam Xenon's and they looked pretty good, but were so dim that it made driving at night dangerous. Get the kit, One of the easiest installs you can do on a car.
  8. So yesterday I decided to drain my coolant and add some new aftermarket coolant. I pulled off the plastic cover underneath my car, then drained the coolant in the radiator by twisting the butterfly plug (the car was still cold). Then I filled the radiator up with water, and ran the car about 20 minutes with the heater on high. I got it to operating temperature, shut it off, then drained the dirty water that mixed with the coolant still circulating through the block. I refilled the radiator with water, then ran it again with the heater on high. I drained the water from the radiator, and filled the radiator, as well as the overflow tank, with 50/50 coolant (half water), and it only allowed one gallon before topping off. Now the questions. I know my tank holds 2 gallons of coolant, so by adding the 50/50 coolant, I only have about 25% anti-freeze in my tank. Plus, I read that Lexus recommends Toyota red coolant for my car, which was the color that drained out originally. I can't locate where (if there even is one) the coolant plug for the engine block, so how am I supposed to drain the entire 2 gallons befre adding the new coolant? I was thinking that I'd run the engine at operating temperature with the heater on high, and have the radiator drain plug open, making sure I didn't overheat the car, but has anyone else done it this way? Secondly, is it really that big of a deal to add Toyota red coolant? I don't mind going to get some, I was just wondering how much of a difference people say it makes. Thank you.
  9. I own a 1993 Gs 300 with the stock Pioneer amplifier. I'm trying to swap it out with a 5-channel car ampifier by Boston (4 channels for the speakers, 1 for the sub). I don't care about wattage ratings right now, my only concern is how to install it. I ran the power wire already to the trunk, as well as a ground wire. I bought a pair of crossovers for the front woofers/tweeters, as well as high frequency blockers for the rear midrange speakers (I will be running the amp on high pass for the speakers). My MAIN question is, how do I connect everything up? There are 3 little white plastic plugs with various wires going into them that plug into the stock amp. I'm guessing the stock amp gets a signal from the volume knob on the dash, gets another signal from the 12 disk cd changer, and outputs to the 6 speakers and subwoofer (2 tweeters in front, 2 midrange in front, 2 midrange in rear). Now all my boston amp needs are RCA signal cables, and a turn-on lead wire, as well as the speaker wires (which will be easy to connect to the amp). How the heck do I connect everything else up?
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