stevie_ray

Thanks for the help. I figure I'll be checking all sorts of cables, grounding and otherwise, when I replace those battery cables. Better safe than sorry. After checking everything else, my best guess is that a bad connection/bad cables is probably the problem. I'll let you guys know how it worked out once I replace the cables and clean up all the connections. I had a similar problem about 1 month ago. But instead of replacing the whole cable, I bought just a new cable terminal from the Lexus dealer, and reattached it to the original battery cable. Much better and much easier than buying and changing the complete cable. Took 5 Minutes. and all is still OEM. Apparently its a relatively common part, as the Lexus dealer had the part in stock. Total cost about $15.00 Phil Well guys, I checked the cables with my meter and they checked out fine on a continuity test. I replaced the terminals, because they were pretty corroded. I cleaned up all the connections and put lots of corrosion control spray on them. The car fired up. So I took it to O'Reilly for a test and they said the alternator had low output. I went to Autozone to get a second opinion and they said it is putting out a little over half the amps it's rated to produce. I'm going to give it a few days to see if everything works out alright, because much of the time, those computers they use there aren't that accurate. If I have to get a jump again because the battery was drained, then I'll probably replace the alternator. Thanks for all of your help, fellas.

Thanks for the help. I figure I'll be checking all sorts of cables, grounding and otherwise, when I replace those battery cables. Better safe than sorry. After checking everything else, my best guess is that a bad connection/bad cables is probably the problem. I'll let you guys know how it worked out once I replace the cables and clean up all the connections.

Thanks, George. I'll do that and let you know how it worked out. I appreciate the reply.

Went to leave work for lunch one day, car wouldn't start. Got a jump and got the car home. Took the battery to get tested and it was dead. Replaced the battery and car started. Drove it to work the next day and at lunch...dead battery. Got a jump and took it home. Had the alternator and voltage regulator tested. Checked all the fuses. They were all fine. Reinstalled alternator and voltage regulator and hooked up battery, then turned the key and it just ticked. No cranking. Nothing. Tried to turn the key again and sparks shot off the negative terminal on the battery. Have no idea what's wrong, now. Anybody have any ideas?

Hey, thanks for the advice. I'll check that right away and see if I can find any loose connections in the dash panel. That sounds like a reasonable evaluation. I'll let you know if I still am incurring any problems after checking what you suggested.

Does it act up every time you press on your brakes? N.C.O. Yes. When I start the car, the lights do not flash; but as soon as I press the breaks, all or some of the the lights I listed begin to flash. As I mentioned before, when I press down hard on the break pedal, the lights stop flashing. I even pressed down hard on the breaks, turned on the cruise control, and then released the breaks. The lights, including the cruise control light, began flashing again. I'm hoping that it's just a short or a fuse going bad somewhere, but I figured I would check here first in the event that someone had already experienced the same thing.

I have a 96 ES300 and when I press my breaks, the ABS, Cruise Control, and Airbag dash lights start flashing. They stop flashing, however, when I press down hard on the breaks. Do I have some sort of short going on here?