Zippyguy

The guy's crazy. 19's will give you a more harsh ride but that's about it.

I've got one (1) I could sell someone. PM me if interested.

This might help. The original work is found on this page: http://www.lgwnorcal.net/articles/wheelfitment.html GS wheels fitment The stock GS 17" wheels, as far as I know, are 17x8 with 235/45/17. I have owned two sets of aftermarket wheels for the car, 19" VolkRacing AV3 19x8.5 +38 front and 19x9.5 +38 rear, and now I have the 20" HRE 540R 20x8.5 +32 front and 20x10 +43 rear. I would classify my 19" setup as a conservative setup as it doesn't flush totally with the fender but have zero rubbing issue, whereas with the HRE, the setup is very aggressive and is flush perfect with the fender, but has slightly rubbing which was fixed relatively easy. The following are the wheel sizes that I would suggest for the GS (if you don't want to have a staggered setup, just put whatever for the front in the back). When I say the setup is conservative, it means you don't have to do any fender modification. When I say aggressive, that means you probably have to do the rolling or shaving. And in the case of professional, then some major suspension changes would have to be made in order to fit the wheel, and should be left to professionals hence I won't go over how here. 18" Difficulty 18x8 +32 18x9 +32 conservative 18x8.5 +38 18x9.5 +38 conservative 18x8.5 +38 18x10 +44 conservative 18x8.5 +32 18x10 +42 aggressive 18x9 +38 18x10 +42 aggressive 18x9 +35 18x10 +35 professional 19" Difficulty 19x8 +32 19x9 +32 conservative 19x8.5 +38 19x9.5 +38 conservative 19x8.5 +38 19x10 +44 conservative 19x8.5 +32 19x10 +42 aggressive 19x9 +38 19x10 +42 aggressive 19x9 +35 19x10 +35 professional 20" Difficulty 20x8.5 +38 20x9.5 +38 conservative 20x8.5 +38 20x10 +44 conservative 20x8.5 +32 20x10 +42 aggressive 20x9 +38 20x10 +42 aggressive 20x9 +35 20x10 +35 professional ** on 20" wheels for the GS, keep in mind that the wheels are out of spec so the overall diameter is off by about 6%. Your speedometer would be off, meaning that when the speedometer says 80mph, you are actually going at around 85mph already. Plus, because of the 1" larger diameter overall compared to 18" or 19" (with tires), you have to be careful with your lowering. From my experience, if you lower your car to 2 fingers, provided that you have the correct offset, you shouldn't rub (or very slightly) the top of the wheel well. If you go 1½ finger gap or less, when going over uneven road or dips, you will most likely rub the top part of the wheel well. Over time you will see part of the rubber wheel well flap got rubbed away. Moreover, with 20", you will rub when you put your steering wheel at full lock (either left or right) and mostly when backing up. This is due to the bigger diameter and when you turn, you rub the front and back of the wheel well (this is one reason why 20" are the biggest rims you can put on the GS with reasonable widths). When it comes to tires for the GS, the following setup are preferred: Wheel Size Tires Within Spec? 18x8 235/40/18 245/40/18 yes 18x8.5 245/40/18 yes 18x9 245/40/18 255/40/18 yes 18x9.5 275/35/18 yes 18x10 275/35/18 285/35/18 yes 19x8 235/35/19 245/35/19 yes 19x8.5 245/35/19 yes 19x9 245/35/19 255/35/19 yes 19x9.5 275/35/19 yes 19x810 275/30/19 285/30/19 yes 19x8 235/40/19 245/40/19 no (fat setup) 19x8.5 245/40/19 no (fat setup) 19x9 245/40/19 255/40/19 no (fat setup) 19x9.5 275/35/19 no (fat setup) 19x10 275/35/19 285/35/19 no (fat setup) 20x8.5 245/35/20 no 20x9 245/35/20 255/35/20 no 20x9.5 275/30/20 no 20x10 275/30/20 285/30/20 no Keep in mind different brands of tires, even with the same profile, will be different too. So for very marginal setup (read: aggressive), the tires might provide the 1 or 2mm that makes all the difference. Tires like the Bridgestone SO3 and Dunlop P9000 are very rounded and "meaty". The rounded corners will help to avoid rubbing. On the other hand, from my experience, Nitto, Pirelli, Yokohama, etc... tires are very "square" so they might enhance the rubbing factor.

Folks - to help out with this thread, I'll post pictures of my LMS supercharger install as soon as I can get to it this weekend. Cheers

You know, the best place to go is www.tirerack.com. I've had lots of luck with them in the past with suspension parts, tires, and accessories. I've never used them for wheels, well, just becuase the brands I was chasing they didn't carry. With that said, the 2nd Gen GS is a stunner with LOTS of options for wheels. Try looking at some O.Z.'s with a nice offset, maybe some Donz Columbo's, you've really got a ton of options.

What ever you do, Kumho is NOT the way to go. They get loud after a few thousand and aren't as high of quality as some other brands. Try the General Acclaim, Toyo Versado, Bridgestone RE050 (or 960A/S), or Michelin A/S.

There are quite a few considerations when replacing/upgrading stock rotors and pads. As a first stop, you might stop by one of the sponsors on this site, www.tirerack.com. Drilled, dimpled, or slotted rotors WILL make noise no matter what you do, period. Keeping that in mind stock rotors tend to rust around the hat and veins so stock replacements like Power Slot and Rotora, which I consider to be two of the best, should give you some ideas. For example, I run Rotora slotted (black hat and veins) in the summer while I have on my Work VS-KF's, black face w/polished lip, then I run stock rotors where I painted the hats silver to match my L-Tuned wheels. So, with all the said, my recommendation is to not use slotted or drilled rotors and to think of the statement you make with the rotors on. Performance vs. function vs. luxury.

Are you running lowered or stock? That could make a difference.

I JUST BOUGHT A 2007 LEXUS GS 350,AND I ALSO JUST BOUGHT SOME 20ZZ.. WHAT IS THE BEST TIRE SIZE TO GO WITH? check out the tire calculator on www.1010tires.com. They do a good job with that.

COMPLETE junk!! PLEASE do not spend your money on this.

20X8.5 really shouldn't rub. Is it the front of the back? Spacers should really help.

Ticket waiting to happen........

I vote the second one. Have you considered going after market wheels?

I've experienced the same thing on 18' staggered. It's probably a combination of a few things. First, if the alignment set to toe in will cause additional strain on the suspension and thus give you road noise. Another factor to review is what kind of shape are your sway bars bushings in? For that matter, the bearings, upper and lower control arms (and bearings)? Again, a big area or road noise transfer and there are plenty ot ways to check those in your driveway. Last point, it most likely is the tires. If you read reviews for this tire on www.tirerack.com, www.1010tires.com, etc. they rate pretty low in comparison to other available tires. My suggestion is to move to a more aggresive, lower profile tire but in the touring section. Something like the Toyo Versado, General Altimax HP, or the Goodyear Eagle ResponsEdge. Any of those tires will perform well for you in the noise arena.

Just checking, does anyone have experience with the SRT intake's noise level.