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Gslide

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Everything posted by Gslide

  1. well... It turned out that the timing belt had jumped teeth and was off timing Thanks for all the suggestions
  2. http://www.v-leds.com/Shop/Control/fp/SFV/32481 Blinker:1157 City light, Halo, & 3 upper lights :168
  3. Well if you have ever seen a set of Ebay headlights you can kinda get an idea. Very light weight, They are not OEM quality plastic The adjustment is finiky.. but they dont leak. the lens is still nice and clear and they give it more of a 2008 appeal, especially with the led swap. I just feel sorry for oncoming traffic and cars in front of me at night. I got my lights from a private seller for $175 shipped. I think I would have been less satisfied if I had paid the full price. I think someone should use the clear cover on some stock lights that would be interesting yes, tinted the corner lights and fogs
  4. Thanks UCF3 i kinda needed them, so I bought the only ones Autozone had in stock. Bad Idea #1 NGK BKR6ES-11 Copper core and the plug wires were $60.. And on that maf... I borrowed his sensor and swapped it out, I did not replace the whole MAF housing. Intake was clean of debris, it does have a crack. But, You can't hear a leak through it.
  5. WAAAY brighter then stock headlights and high beams. Easy wiring & install. I didnt even have to completely remove bumper:) I went a another step and replaced all the lights with LED's and wired it a lil different I will convert to HID's eventually I like them alot more than clearcorners lights, and they dont cost 2 grand. not to knock them or anything. they are still boss my only complaint is the adjustment screws... on mine in particular are very poor. only one of them worked... so aiming them is PIA. headlights are too high and the high beams had the same problems with the adjusment screws. but i may have gotten unlucky I wired the halo's to come on with the driving light. 5 led UV 12 led hid white then i wired the top 3 to blink witht he blinkers.. 1 led cones 15 led blinkers
  6. Hey everyone, My name is Gary and I live in the Houston, Tx area and I recently purchased a '92 SC400. I haven't done anything major to it yet, other than R&R and a few small touches. The car had been sitting for over 3 years so there is quite alot to restore, but for $1500, I cant complain. She just hit 250,500 last weekend and is still a pretty solid car with blown front everything.. and few other problems im working out here are a few shots of it the day i got it. I threw on my wheels for fun.. well the ones that fit Work: VS-KF 18x10 +13 / 5zigen: FN10R-C 18x9.5 +12 This is with the new lights and LED upgrades I also have my track toy, a Nissan 240sx that I am at the final stages of my 3rd engine swap. This time I have upgraded to a 1jz with a GT35R. Still gotta a long ways to go but its mounted, and most of the HARD work is done. for my fellow wheel fitment whores:) 18x10 +8 (5mm spacer) 225/40 & 18x12 +0 265/35 Well, I was recently driving my SC4 and all of a sudden the engine started to missfire and run as if half of the cylnders died. i figured the notorious ingition coil since it was one of the only things i hadn't replaced So I did the self diagnostics and these are the codes i received. 13- RPM Signal Curcuit 14- Igniter Signal 24- Intake temp sensor curcuit 31- Low air flow meter voltage FYI: plugs, plug wires, distributor cap & rotors had been replaced prior to this problem. So i borrowed a friends MAF, bought 2 new ignition coils and replaced them, but still not firing. tried resetting ecu to see if i got any different codes or difference in idle. No luck. Is there anything that I may have overlooked, or misunderstood from the codes? Thanks in advance for any insght -Gary
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