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ibuddler

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Posts posted by ibuddler

  1. Hi,

    I changed my egr valve today. But i don't know for what reason I can't close (install) it tightly as the old one to the pipes. Now the engine has the noise ( I can hear the engine horns when the gear shifts)

    Will that be the reason it has noise or that's because of the dirty got in the pipes when i removed the old one?

    Can I still drive it? Thanks.

    It seems less noise now since I've tight it closely.

  2. The temp sensor is just under the front of the throttle body throat.

    I drive it gently all the time so it never gets blown out.

    On mine, I tested all the pieces and they all were good. I didn't know what to do besides try to clear the tubing. Then, one day after some harder driving the light went out. The code was still stored though. I cleared the code and haven't seen it again.

    Like I said, the components all tested good. That's all real good quality stuff. The exhaust gas temp sensor, usually never goes. The vacuum switch can go bad but usually lasts and lasts. It's a very simple part. The EGR valve itself is very dependable and doesn't take too much abuse since the EGR Cooler cools the gases coming into it. Those gases are hotter than hell, believe me. Mine was pretty clean, too. Even after 218,000 miles. It had to be the piping coming off the A Pipe. That pipe never needs changing so it's on there the whole life of the car. It gets full of deposits over a long period of time. When you need a new exhaust, they just change out everything behind the CAT. Everything in front of it gets so hot that water can't condensate in it. It stays perfectly solid. So, it gets full of deposits and can cover the little exit that sprigs off to feed the EGR system.

    It worked for me. Also, use some Carb and Throttle Body Cleaner and some paper towels and really clean the throttle body opening. You won't believe how filthy that is. Dirty, oily gases from the crank case get sucked right into the front of the throttle body. That's called the Breather, and there's no filter on it.

    Good luck!

    Hi, I've tried and that seems not work for me. But thank you anyway. My best guess is my O2 sensor was bad 1 year ago and I didn't pay attention to it for a year which results my EGR's damage.

  3. I had this same problem.

    P0401 is EGR Insufficient Flow. The EGR system knows if flow is coming through by a little temp sensor right in the throttle body by the inlet from the exhaust.

    If the sensor doesn't get hot, it knows there's no flow because if there was, it would definitely get hot.

    Now we know exactly how the computer picks up a code P0401.

    This could be caused by one or more of several things (that's what makes this such a tough one)

    First, it could be that the EGR valve is stuck or not getting good vacuum - easy to test

    Second, it could be because the vacuum modulator on the EGR valve Assembly is clogged and not letting the EGR open - easy to test

    Third, it could be the EGR's vacuum switch isn't getting vacuum or is stuck - not uncommon but it's probably OK - easy to test

    Fourth, it could be that the EGR piping that comes up from the exhaust is clogged a bit with deposits and isn't letting the gasses come up - Not easy to test, and if it is, then you'll be changing all kinds of parts to find the fix and you'll clear the code and a week later it'll show up again.

    Yea, I had this very same problem. What cured it? A little spirited driving. Get that exhaust real hot. Accelerate hard and long. A great way to do this is by being late for a very important appointment. The light went out and I cleared the code and it's not been back.

    You can clear that piping if you dismantle the pipe that goes down to the EGR Cooler on the back of the engine, also the pipe that goes from the EGR Cooler to the exhaust and cleaning with a cheap gun kit. Do not spray anything down that pipe! It could foul a very expensive sensor downline.

    Hope this helps in some way. Cheers!

    Thank you for you information. So you suggest to drive hard for a long time and the light will be off? Btw, where's the EGR Temp Sensor? I can't find it from FSM. Thanks.

  4. I had this code months ago and I read the thread and replaced the EGR sensor. After replacing the sensor (1 day after) the code came again. So I'm wondering what should I do now. The car idle is just fine! Do I have to replace the valve? I took the valve out before and cleaned it.

    Any suggestions?

    I clean up the code and it came on again with the same code. But I didn't feel I'm losing power. Will it be anything else other than EGR?

  5. I had this code months ago and I read the thread and replaced the EGR sensor. After replacing the sensor (1 day after) the code came again. So I'm wondering what should I do now. The car idle is just fine! Do I have to replace the valve? I took the valve out before and cleaned it.

    Any suggestions?

  6. It appears it has been a year regarding the last post but I need some guidance on the same topic. I have been driving with my check engine light and traction control lights on for a while now because Firestone scared me away with the amount of money they said it was going to cost to diagnose and fix. The car drives fine. Finally, yesterday I went to a local repair shop and he originally got a p0446 code. He changed a part number that has toyota stamped on it and the part number is 90910-12109. Upon doing that the check engine light went off but quickly went back on. Now the car is giving the same P 1410 and P1411 codes above.

    Since it has been a year, I hoped someone else in this forum may have had a similar situation and could advise what will fix the problem. Any help would be much appreciated.

    Do you have P0401 or P0402 code as well? P 1410 and P1411 usually because of the malfunction of EGR Position sensor. You might measure the resistance of the sensor between the terminals VC and E2. It should be between 1.5-4.3K. If the resistance is not specified, replace the sensor. You need to buy 89455-33020 (I'm assuming you have a 97-01 Es300). 89455-33020 is a new PN replaced for 89455-33010. They are exactly the same.

    If your sensor is good, then you might have the trouble. You will need to inspect the ERGvalve, VCV or ECM.

  7. My 98 ES300, Power Steering fluid level is extremely below "Low". I.e. when the engine is hot, the level is below "Cold Low". What kind of power steering fluid should I use? Do I have to flush it or just add it? How bad will it be if I keep driving with the level below LOW?

    It should tell you this in the owners manual and it is also stated on the cap of the power steering reservoir. Just add, you don't have to flush. If you find that you constantly have to add, then you may have a leak and need to get it checked out. When was the last time you had it flushed? I suggest at least every 30k or every two years.

    steviej

    I bought a MotorMaster ATF Daxoen3 Fluid from CanadianTire. But I found the color is different from what it current has. Should I add the new fluid in?

    The one I bought is red. It says Transmission Fluid but the tech in CT told me it can be used as powersteering fluid too. Should I trust him?

  8. My 98 ES300, Power Steering fluid level is extremely below "Low". I.e. when the engine is hot, the level is below "Cold Low". What kind of power steering fluid should I use? Do I have to flush it or just add it? How bad will it be if I keep driving with the level below LOW?

  9. My car is a 98 ES300 and running 130 000miles now. I'm wondering should I use 10W30 or 5W30 as labeled on engine?

    Btw, my last oil change was on December last year and it has been over 6300 miles now. But when I check the oil, I found it's still marked at FULL and still looks fresh~ I'm always driving below 2000RPM (mostly around 1.5k) and 1000miles would be highway mileage. I'm also wondering should I do an oil change now since it looks so good. (A little dark but still very fresh compared with my friend's car who's been running for 2000km since last oil change)

    Thanks.

  10. I recently purchased a 2000 es 300 with 178000 miles. The car is a one owner vehicle in A-1 condition and has full service records which show it has been well maintained. All was great until the check engine light appeared. I took to the dealer where all service has been completed and they claim the oxygen sensors show the catalytic converter needs to be replaced. $1211.00 was the quote.

    Are there any options there than shelling out the $1200? Can an independent shop do this at abetter price?

    Thank you in advance for your help,

    JSO

    1200 is a kind of rob believe me...

    I changed my O2 sensor by myself. It's a very easy job if it's at the front. 1hr labor i guess and the sensor is only 160 roughly.

  11. That is a great website. Thank you.

    My EGR valve pos sensor is dead i guess. I've called lexus and toyota dealers. Both of them told me it's $60 for the sensor. Is there anyway to buy a cheaper one? P/N: 89455-33010 or 89455-33020. The later is the new called p/n for the sensor.

    You don't say what year ES you have. Another suggestion is to contact an auto wrecker or salvage yard (we have one of the largest in Canada....called Standard Auto Wreckers in Toronto & another location is in Niagara Falls NY). You can see if you can get one there.....but at that price, I would bite the bullet & pay the $60......just my .02.

    Welcome to LOC btw. B)

    :cheers:

    Thanks. It's a Year1998 ES300. I guess I found one thread says 33020 is more expansive than 33010. But the dealer just told me 33010 is replaced by 33020 and they are the same.

    Check out this thread and see if it helps. I ran into the same problem a while back. A few people suggested good on line parts houses. BTW the car is still running great.

    http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...c=33746&hl=

  12. My EGR valve pos sensor is dead i guess. I've called lexus and toyota dealers. Both of them told me it's $60 for the sensor. Is there anyway to buy a cheaper one? P/N: 89455-33010 or 89455-33020. The later is the new called p/n for the sensor.

    You don't say what year ES you have. Another suggestion is to contact an auto wrecker or salvage yard (we have one of the largest in Canada....called Standard Auto Wreckers in Toronto & another location is in Niagara Falls NY). You can see if you can get one there.....but at that price, I would bite the bullet & pay the $60......just my .02.

    Welcome to LOC btw. B)

    :cheers:

    Thanks. It's a Year1998 ES300. I guess I found one thread says 33020 is more expansive than 33010. But the dealer just told me 33010 is replaced by 33020 and they are the same.

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