mburnickas

That is a little less then average for Texas. Good deal.

I am guessing :D from not using it myself but, however I see the cars almost daily, know the app they use, etc. I am not saying it is a bad product at all nor did LOL. Just saying it is average based on looks etc. I know longevity is not great. I can get 60% the same thing with CG pro detailer. Going by autopia people are getting the samething. Again, this is me, I have yet to find really great products OTC. Great for me, means shine, beading, depth, bird bombs, how long it lasts etc. I know in Texass, for me, no OTC will hold up in this sun. If you or the cusomter is happy, that is all the matters. I know some people that are happy with any way on the car.

me, no but I have friends that do and see them all the time. For me, NXT is okay and nothing special. I will take CG5050 over it anyday (way better). But price is also more too. again YMMV .......but most OTC items are just that. But if you or the customer likes the results, stick with it.

I would agree with your friend. I use the cheapest I can find. Only reason is based on oil testing house said do not waste the money; better off with a fuel add with "corn" in fuel...YMMV

I like the black book since it is very close, or closer then both noted above. "YMMV"

Check autopia; there has been issues. I will take a MF (plush) over it...YMMV

I remember them in stores but I was in college

small trains or a basketball team! LOL

My normal process is to drain the oil pan and then follow with the filter removal. Usually there is some oil in the filter, but this time it was nearly dry...like no oil passed through it. I use a Fram (3614). I noticed that there is much concern with Fram. Is there a history of problems with Fram? I also noticed that the oil from the crankcase was pretty thick. This after I changed the oil only 4000 miles ago. There is no issues with Fram. YMMV but Fram is no better or worse then Toyota OEM filters (based on construction). In fact, in some applications, Toyota is worse then Fram (based on construction). I also have used Fram and got UOA’s done and they were fine. I cannot comment on “oil viscosity” since I do not know what “thick” means nor the starting oil properties. If the filter was dry, my guess is a bad valve in filter (not likely) or something with oil pressure in engine. Even if filter had bad valve it would just bypass filter media but be wet. But if you followed the manual, and do not know what else to do take it into a dealer or non-lexus dealer.

Sorry but I messed up sensors (air temp) in diesel engine (10X the air flow) with these oil glazed filters. Not worth the issues. Plus I know FORD will not honor any warranty issues when these types of filters (wet oil glazed cotton etc) installed. Warning labels all over; take that for face value. In fact, I would use an Amsoil EaA air filter over any oil glazed filters. Cheaper, better eff/cap, no oiling ($$$), no wasting/cleaning ($$$$) etc. Heck I would take a paper over K&N. I also just had problems with my K&N in my motorcycle. Trashed it and all better and that was at the dealership that has seen these issues before.

I will PM you on this issue. I do not want to stray from the beloved manual here here!

I would use a MF but that is me. YMMV

how soon did you change the filter after draining oil? Did you use a Toyota filter?

Meguiars NXT is like turtle wax ice (average at best) based on readings on the mother load forum. Durability is not great and loses looks quickly; but if you like waxing all the time…Most OTC stuff is like this. Any wax can shine, add warmth etc. I would take certain non-OTC paste waxs (professional grade) over these items any day. For me, I would not waste my money on them. In this price range, Collinite's waxes would be a better then both. Bring Mr. Political here……YMMV. Also, 'Onyx5spdSportx' go to autopia.org and look around. Alot better then over here.

Use the manual as a guide since they know all. I cannot help you.

Sw- No I do value the property & I know 100% what is going on. That is why I utilized UOA since I value my engines more so then using a manual that is so general it is not funny. You on the other hand are using guidelines (aka manual) that have little merit on oil duration or even design. That is again a fact since you do not test it. How do you really know what is going on with engine and oil. You clearly do not. Yup, 90% of this forum, you included, do not understand UOA and are using the manual as proof. 100 to 1 you are wasting resources since you are blindly going at it using this method. As I stated years ago on here, prove my wrong spend the whopping $18 to $20 and test the oil. 1000 to 1 if you are doing 5K drain you are wasting $$$$, time etc. I tell anyone on this forum to spend the large amount of money on a test. I think in like 4-years here, only seen (1) person post a UOA. That person is light years ahead of the curve. So you are using $25 oil or a complete oil change for $25? Maybe you should drain sooner then 5K miles but hay that is you. For me I would not buy your car since a manual, in my eyes, does not guarantee anything (does not show HOW the car/engine is doing). My UOA's guarantees lots; it shows my engine performance, show trends and oil history (and service life left). Notice the order in which I post it (hint hint). So you send $75 for 15,000 miles when I spent over 30% less and WILL have better numbers and less time driving to a dealer to drain, in your case (wasting time and gas), etc? Sounds like a plan. My time is worth $$$ and I do not want to waste it on a car, used oil, at a dealer etc. So you are playing the scare tactics now with warranty? Come on SW. You are sounding like monarch now since "I have maintained...." You are falling for the recommend deal or think recommended means mandates; which is not correct. I will put more faith in UOA, engine oil wise then a manual that is flat-out BS. Plus if Lexus is as good as people hope, Lexus's MTBF, FOS, quality, etc will be built into the manuals/designs. Wrong SW. I am stating that people, you included, time and time again do not understand engine performance / oil longevity. I also have had several cars go over 300K using dino oil but it came at a huge price too. People clearly do not understand UOA since they think the primary reason is oil performance; which is 100% wrong. This is not attacking you or other members it is called, posting (directly) that people are not correct. I am not someone who is new to this field or someone pushing a product. In fact this is nothing new in the UOA field (about 40 years old). People are using a manual as fact when you do not understand HOW these miles are even derived (manuals are based little on engine design). Good, you make excuses to other mods and that means what to me? People can post on oil (anything) but do not post incorrect data too since I will post right behind them. Postings like you HAVE to drain at 5K miles, manuals says so or "as you car gets older", black oil means it is dirty, etc is well, not correct. Again people you need to step-up to the plate and spend the huge amount of $20 to not guess on these items and more. An UOA for example add WAY more value then anything stated in the "manual". I am down right "direct" to people posting BS that use a manual as god when it is not even close to real world data or direct relationship to YOUR own car. If I used a manual for oil drains I am WASTING $$$$, wasting time, waste resources, wear on engine components etc…do I need to go onward. If people cannot understand a little $18 dumb-downed oil test, wow all I can say is wow. I give DIRECT answers but people time and time again, THINK a manual gets them a good feeling when that is all it gets (nothing more or even provides anything on MTBF). It does not prove accurate data on your engine oil or cars performance. Lexus WANTS you in the dealer to make money, not help the car. If they wanted to the car to last then would not make YOU pay for 75% of the "checks" they do. If someone has all these slips form a lexus dealer, you are paying for their building lease. It is a joke on what they charge since you can do it, quicker, cheaper and better then them. I can change spark plugs faster then driving to my dealer alone! In your case (5K drains), you could have problems since you have no idea, wasting oil that is drained too soon but you feel good. I could tell you , in your case an injector (example) will be failing LONG before you even know it or ever know it at all ; but a simple $20 test would be priceless. And it would tell you longer before any issues. But if you blindly use your 5K drain, you will never know it, WILL have more wear in engines, and might have serious issue long after your warranty is over. But you feel good on using the manual. That is not a good way to run an engine since you are going at it blind. I am the only one that knows REALLY what is going on with my engine and my oil in this thread (factoid) and 99.9% sure this forum. Again people will play the scare BS on warranty since they do not understand something. Makes sense to me. I have yet to see an engine fail when people use UOA's. PS. I have posted before about this issue with other mods that cannot back it up other then a manual. Good supporting non-technical data. That is not supporting anything; it is a legal fluff factor. That is like throwing out a 1-gallon of milk since it feels good or the date is expired when you have no idea on the condition of it. It is called wasting $$$. That is my point in my UOA postings. People are using a manual as a fact when it is correct for a paper trail but not integral to engine oil condition, performace, etc. Paper trails are just that.

Then it is the car buyers issue and not mine. I could carless if it is on the list (first of not). It does not matter. That is the funny part is people think a manual means you are fine. They, public are guessing. Again black oil color means nothing here. If it (black oil) does please prove it since in 15+ years of talking to oil house, not one says black oil means anything. Why you ask since I can put oil in a car engine or (diesel) and have it turn black in 0.5 hours. Again color (black) does not mean anything. That is a fact here. Black oil means there is soot in it, or carbon and that does not or is not integral to engine wear. I could have purple, or clean oil and be fine or bad. Unless you are testing any oil testing person will tell you do not go by black in color. AS I noted before, years in fact I have see CLEAR oil perform bad and jet black oil give the best wear numbers. So you do not see a point and that is great. My point is I can have double the miles or triple as yours and my wear will be at or below your levels with up to 3X as many miles. That I am very sure of and cost me approx $50 max and less time driving to a dealer or working under car. I am glad you have stood up for me on this. What I am saying and 99.9% of this forum does not get it or does not understnad it(based on lack of UOA) is that you THINK you change your oil you are fine/golden etc. You are guessing people, blindly too. It is nothing more clear then that. I spend approx $44 to $48 for 15,000+ miles and WILL perform fine (based on real data). I can or cannot do an oil analyis and I know, based on baselines it WILL be fine. As you stated you are going by a feel. If that makes people happy on a feeling you are fine. Great I would like to SEE the data to support my feeling and not guess or feel okay. That is no way to sleep. If a carbuyer does not get it, UOA, I will tell them to move along (and have). I even sold my last tractor ($14,500)to a person that said, "wow you are really anal about engine oil". I said no, I trust numbers and not a blind manual. Even he was amazed by the data and said it was great to know how the engine is working. If you like throwing $$$ away (with 5K drains with Mobil1), you must have free money. I like to use oil for how it is designed and use it for what I paid BUT keep the lowest engine wears. Why throw oil away that is only 30% used???? With those little miles, you are. I trust manuals as 100% total BS. Why since I have seem what goes into them, the fluff, legal issue to cover the mfg, huge FOS's, MTBF, that is larger then life, etc. I am very tolerant of perople viewpoints just do not post junk on I recommend it, old cars need more changes, or it is in the manual, or I get a good feeling since these answers are flat-out GUESSING since people have no clue on how your engine is running, oil longeveity, performace, wear, blowbye, fuel etc. Again, people will spend $400+ for an 02 sensor to be installed but will not spend $18 for priceless oil testing. Even the data comes back so a 10 year old can get it...That is amazing in my eyes. Again if peope want to post I feel good just do not post it has a "fact", cause it ant folks and I can prove them wrong.

Lexus put out TSB last year about oil and they do not recommend them anymore (from 2007 below). But people think "reccomend" means mandates...

For me, oil is not cheap, I have better things to do, environmental impact. Oil gets hot and oil viscosity has nothing to do with it getting hot. Yup, oil boils (wow, nothing new) in all gas cars/engines and that means ZERO. Oil has a flash point and fire point WELL ABOVE boiling. Changing oil at some short internal will not prevent this nor will using a thinner or thicker do anything. It comes down to basestocks and adds here. If you want better protection use a real group 4/5. If you are using <$2 oil you are using crap dino oil, unlike myself. And you might NEED to change less or more but you have no clue. The point is only (1) person in this threads really know how his engine is running and how well the oil is doing and that is ME. Yup, me and I have the data to support it and others are lacking; as thread has shown. Lexus built an engine and means nothing they are about 10 to 15 years behind oil standards here. Plus they built engine, not oil. I trust the UOA and not a manual that is built on fluff and legal protection, FOS, MTBF…. I never stated 0w-30 here so please do not put words in my mouth. I put 0w-20 in my engine and lots of people do. How do I know? Since Redline, Mobil, Amsoil etc ALL MAKE IT and not just for me. But Amsoil makes a ow-30 that blows the doors off of there 0w-20. But I guess it is crap by your standards. If you are sounding like a moron, then stop posting crap. I have oil tests that show these oils work in my ES. And what do you have here? Try stopping you? You really have no clue here (based on your posts you have little to offer in this area). I am not smart or the best in this area but I do have correct info to post and the years to support my posts.

You crack me up......Gee, my oil tests are better then the 5w-30 and Lexus does not use 5w-30 anymore. Oil in the manual is a JOKE. They are behind the times. Example, I need an SL rated oil...give me a break. Plus you can use ow-20 in place of a 5w-20/30 and be 100% fine. Hell, I use 5w-30 in a diesel engine that calls for 15w-40; which is too thick. Again you and others in the forum/thread THINK 3 to 5 K miles gets you something. Prove it with showing me the data? You nor anyone on this thread can since you are all guessing; that is a fact here. I know how my engine is running and oil duration etc is a benefits. Which you all are lacking.....Again fact and I have stated that many times. If you are not testing you are guessing on oil performance. Oil consumption has nothing to do with oil weight! See, you need to stop posting on oils since you are posting BS. Fact here

depends on what was changed on his (Firewalker) 90K service.

Yup, great price. I would expect that with Mex (3.5 hours down the road from Houston).

It is not a game SW. I do (3) tests to contruct a baseline and then I KNOW it works. Also I am not PUSHING the oil as you state. I am working it as it is designed. If I did, the UOA's would show that in low ZAAP, higher NOX/OXD, higher wears, high TAN, etc (which they DO NOT). You would never buy my car since I KNOW how it is performing. Come on SW! There is more uncertainty in your car then mine. That is a fact here. I have pix of the internals and UOA's. And you have what here...nothing So now oil color means something…You are too much.. black oil is not integral to oil performance etc. You would know that if you tested, which you clearly do not. I also do UOA to see how the engine is doing since they have saved my a$$ before in other engines. PS. I was doing over 10,000+ miles on my old Powerstroke Diesel when I traded it in at the Lexus dealer. The service manager saw it, saw what I did to it (and UOA's) and it was sold to him before I traded it in. So it is not a road block when people understand what importance it is.

I like Amsoil 0w-20 (with Lc20) since my engine loves it. I had used there 5w-30 which ran okay but the other is better. I would go 10,000 miles and test. Then do 3 more tests at 10,000 miles and then you have a baseline. Then you got it.

on autopia site, per the magic 8-ball, "things do not look good"...aka not much out there.