mburnickas

I use 0w-20 from Amsoil..There is no need for a 5w-30 anymore. In fact, Lexus posted a TSB on this and even new toyo's come with I think ow-30... I only do a min drain of 11,000 miles...No need to before. That is me based on UOA's, no guessing etc. I put about 1% faith in Lexus on oil duration, time etc.

Cotton???? Why not MF? For me, Zaino is overpriced and nothing special.

FYI-, I tried Leather Master stuff on 2 sectionals (Natuzzi and another name). Stuff is nothing better then anything I have tried. For me, save you money. For me the stuff from Griot's works the same.

Might want to add "DO NOT TOUCH BULB (NEW) WITH HANDS" AND/OR OLD IF KEEPING FOR SPARE. :) Nice first post! and welcome to LOC!!!!!!!!

So this brown is sludge/carbon or varnish? The posts above says seafoam but I have my dislikes on that product. Sounds like you are using a dino oil, based on your posts..tisk tisk! :) Sounds to be your have a dirty engine and the oil is std. If you used a synthetic (group 4 or 5) based that would suply some cleaning; aka diesel oils. What I like for an addative based on my testing, great customer help (UOA house like it) is Lube Control Lc20. The stuff has been out for years and it works mint. It is not a flush and takes some miles to work and works very well. Try it out. They are some others but customer service is poor along with other things... What I would do, this is me, is spend the $$$ and pull a test. Maybe you are a parts not working as it shoud (more fuel in oil, wear (from cams, rings etc) is though the roof (brown stuff you see?), engine oil is not working good enough..... Lc20 would clean, a HDEO would, along with others. YMMV My engine is clean though. :P :P :D :D

I am no oil man, even though I drive by the rigs daily, but my oil testing houses says use the cheapest you can find. right, wrong etc? No clue but for years they have never steard me wrong.

Yup, and the problem is you can argue all day with them (dealers) on it. I found the low-cost Lexus dealer and that was the best avenue for me. Is it right, no but neither is the labor rate books too. Lexus I think in general is a total ripoff but people love them. They should be nice to you (customer) for $130 for an oil change or the "checks" they do! But if you have no clue on cars, it is well worth it. The original posters price is damn good if you ask me. I also agree IF the WP breaks but after talking with other lexus owners and the Lexus dealer at 80 to 100K replacing a WP is throwing money away.

Bad EGR;s are very common on these years. I had mine go at 70K and I need to remove mine and clean it.. Since you have 139K you are lucky and I would clean TB, Ivac and intake soon; if you have not. I suggest Amsoil Power foam since it blows the doors off of the beloved seafoam, distilled water, B12 chemtool etc.

Check out Autopia since Zymol has been talked about a few/many times.

I always tell people to buy an OBDII CAN reader..Well worth the $$$$.Napa reads codes for free but does NOT test for OBD readiness.

Clay bar will prep the surface better. But that is all it does. Does not add anything but worth the extra 15 to 20 minutes.

I know many will post, but it does not look bad. Ask them IF you even need the water pump. They can check that and most time you are fine. The parts are the same. They might not have it in stock? When I had mine done 3 years ago it was 299 for TB and 200 for WP. Since they are doing coolant have them throw on drive belt(s) and look at cam/crank seals.

But Toyota/Lexus uses life time fuel filters.....

It is a very hard one to answer since what defines best? $$$$, longevity, durabilty, ease of use...I think Zaino is overpriced. Weclome to LOC. For car detaining I like Autopia the BEST. Also might want to move this to the proper forum...

yes there is two in the front and two in the back

are they legal?

Surely someone out there has had to replace thier spark plug tube seals on a ES300 before. I have the same question about tube seal replacement that LEEVIV posted but haven't had any luck finding out how to change them out. Specifically I would like to know how the new ones go back in because it's not very difficult to remove the old brittle ones but they're worthless by the time you get them out. Why not email the people at a great Lexus dealer...check out http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/ind...amp;catalogid=0 I love these people!

I tried that (wax) and my OCD took over; surface needed clay first and I could not do it....so it is still getting washed when I can...Moving out of Texass so car is not first inline...:)

Yup, Amsoil knows but where are you located? Also Amsoil is going UP in prices again on May 1, 2008 due to oil price.. 3rd increase in 6-months....... ****Also engine temp IS NOT integral to tranny issues.

Good thing she did not bring a book with her to read. Not long enough!!!

Join the club. I have not detailed my car since 8-10-2007! That was 8,000 miles ago! Same reason here but mine is 28 months and they know how to push ya! But ha, when they sleep you have some time! LOL. I am like yourself. I only nuts about oil though and let the rest slide since life is worth more then a car.

yup and they have lots of free time too. I have a bike for this and really my lexus is made for comfort and not speed. If I wanted a $hit box ride, I would buy a corrolla...LMAO What is amazing is how race plays with this crap. In Holyoke/Springfield MA, PR heaven) they love this junk, along with huge mufflers and stupid loud radios (with kids in back seat too). In Texas (near Houston) we do not get this...funny ha.

Lexusfreak- You can't get mad at the guy on the price since that is 100% typical Lexus prices. Lexus LOVES the good-old inspect deal...It is free money! But he is paying normal prices; $450 for about $100 worth of material..but he gets a free hack wash job too!

it ant no wax dude! LOL... So you only wash it over 1-year with no other applications? one a garage kept not many miles per year, maybe with a sealant.... For me, I do not know if beading is integral to product longevity. I say that since I can QD a car and it beads for weeks and I did not ADD anything to protect it.

Well, if your fluid is turning color (non red) you could have heat issues, slippage or poor fluid issues. Or the tranny could have been dirty and the fluid is cleaning it (ATF does clean). Or the fluid might have been too low at one time for a long(er) duration. I do not put much faith in fluid (tranny/engine oil) clarity. Did the ATF smell burnt (important)? I have not used non-synthetic fluids in many years (like over 15). But I know Amsoil ATF goes in smelling new and new color and comes out the same way; and that is with up to 3X with manuals “recommends”. I also drain and re-fill every other filter drop. I get about 4 qts out of my ES. Filter is done 60K to 70K. You could do any of these things. Pull a UOA (best method), keep draining and refilling (costly) or maybe have a tranny guy check it out (no clue on what they will do). Also a tranny cooler would drop temps a tad but the bigger question is why would you need it. To me it is a bad-aid to a problem and no fixing the issue…..but YMMV But if you follow the manual….LOL