mburnickas

There is no UOA 101 now either. It is called self eduction, talking to tribologists, oil people etc. I am not knocking any certain oil. I am however knocking that people keep using someone else UOA's and that means ZERO. Again most "feel", based on lack of raw data, like you do. It is not wrong but I would rather know for sure if(100%) or spend $18 (approx) then basing my investment on a "feel" or other peoples data (no-no). Again do not use Corvette forum's UOA since that is like when BITOG site was pimping GC (same thing as the vette) and now that is gone...

In addition, if you have access to 110v extention cord near your parking, get a block heater. BOOM. Heat, right now. We keep ours on a timer so it only turns on a few hours before we're up-an-attum. It (along with blocking the grill) keeps our winter mpg up higher too. Bingo! Use a timer since a block heate WILL add up in $$$. The other issue is remember to unplug then drive. You can also buy a heater that is tied in the fuel supply and turns on/off when certain temps are met.

This is from the guy that does not do UOA too right?

there are 3 total. (they are called bank XXX) 1-front of engine 1-rear of engine 1- under car near cat. the front is easy, based on looks but I had to replace the one on rear of engine (by fire wall). pain in the a$$. took like 25 minutes but I am not small guy to reach up there.

I can show proof but it is company property, no-no. Again I just design powertrains for our military trucks. I like my past history since it comes in very handy. I laughed when I saw the US gov mandates oil testing prior to oil draining. Nevermind C7 cat engines etc. :) I never said anyone is dumb or stupid. I just said I am the only one with proof (aka UOA) when my oil performance is exhausted. Others "think"...

Good story but a TB breaking on a car will causes issues and some with. Oil was not integral to the break, as you stated. But will causes fuel to enter engine into oil and excess wear. Proof of oil changes would do nothing here since they factory rep would do what I do, pull a UOA since they will no trust the customer. No matter what they are out. I am intense, time for a drink! Long week.

#1 My wifes car, olds alero 2002 (GM) product has an OLM. I also test the oil since the OLM has me, the owner, draining before needed (too soon). UOA find more life left and keep using. Also I would not work for GM, crappy products. The OLM has MAJOR FOS integral to it. #2, no one has posted anything to why they drain rather then what they "think". No supporting data. Poor reasons since no one has anything conrete on there oil being poor and needs drains. #3, I trust BITOG site like salesman since they are. Look at there ADD forum. Can you say a joke. Some threads have no basis either, removed for no reason other then $$$$. #4, so again people are using others people posts as there own? I like to know how MY engine runs etc and no use someone else data. That is a poor way to" think" your engine "might" do. #5, I dislike Mobil based on my own personal findings, NOT someone elses. Case in point, people are shooting in the dark. #6, do you know why I dislike ash? It has ZERO to do with oil longevity here. If you understood oil, you would not even have posted that comment. To close, this thread is full of all kinds of poor reasons. Post some UOA's to support your OWN finds. Until then, this is a typical oil thread of mis-info and poor logic. Maybe I should change my oil since someone in another forum, 2 years ago, said I should at some time. Sounds like everyone else here <unreal>

Still lacking support of any real data to your drain. Another person/post guessing on something. It is not cost efficient to spend $18 average??? I do not bet here since I know what I have in my engine; unlike you. Spending about 30 seconds to drain some oil is not practical? Are you kidding me. I guess money is not integral to knowledge. You do not even know what you had when you drained the oil. <clueless> You are still missing the valuable importance of UOA yet again; I expected that. You do not need UOA's? Oh ya you will not pay $18 but "think" you need to drain at some 6 to 8 weeks based on nothing. I guess you are better then, Mack, Cat, US Military, Exxon/Mobil, etc since they all utilize this tool; and not only for "changing the oil". If is funny and what do I know. I just design military trucks and work with these people on a daily bases. Common sense is nice for people who do not understand more in-depth practices. The factory recommended intervals are for people who like a "manual for dummies" or want things handed to them without thinking. Not attacking but I say this since these numbers, in the manual for drains, have some much FOS it is a joke. It is based on $$$, not anything more. Your before posts would mean nothing if you did some items I listed above, many times. It is not a "p!ss!ing contest" but rather a forum to post real world info. No guessing in my posts, you yes.:whistles:

Thanks man. I keep saying I will not buy another black car/truck and I keep getting sucked in! I want a green, silver or white one next. I like the 9227 and the LC pads. Great combo.

You would be fine. Just only go like 20K on this ATF, more next time.

Incorrect since #1, it is "recommended oil change intervals". That is not in stone since I know what recommended means. Just like Lexus recommendes you used Lexus parts, lexus air in tires and you take your car in every 3,000 miles for like $200. It is a money maker period. They recommend everything and anything too. #2 per you beloved Lexus, I need to perfom at least 1 oil change per year. Per my sludge letter. That superceeds the manual. There is no real proof of perfoming an oil change unless you video take it. You can show slips etc till you are blue in the fact but prove that that oil was installed in that car, that filter etc. Do many ways around it.

Sorry MadloR, I am not loyal at all. But I have tried and tested many others. Which I see you have not. Amsoil is not the best in the world here but it is the best bang for the dollar. Why, because my UOA show that. Hence, you would see that if you pulled UOA's here. I trust a certified mechanic zero since any clown is one and it means little to nothing. And when you ask a manufacture, most will say contact the dealer or it is a CS person reading from a book. Most dealers like Toyota are behind the times here too. You do not stress your oil? Based on what info do you know that? You are missing the point again. You have no idea what you have with your oil. Now color and smell of oil means something? You are too funny. I guess you are superman with UV eye sight and particle tester with your nose? You worry about on---off-on---off. LOL. Next is do not lie since I never stated 25K on oil. Please show me since that is another incorrect statment you are making. If you used an oil by-pass it would even blow your understanding I think.:chairshot: Anyother living in fear post when I have yet to talk to anyone in real life using Redline, Amsoil etc with oil releated issues. Not gonna happen if you can read. I will take my 4.6 qts of used oil after, your, how many gallons in my same time?????? Your post is correct in the fact that you know zero on oil testing (as shown). 99.9% of a test is not even in decimal places? <unreal>

Easy, since you can run most engines on the poorest engine oil and drain so frequent, as most show, then it would work just fine. It also does not mean you are getting the lowest wear numbers, best protection out there either. Or you could are getting massive buildup of acid and oxid in the engine and oil is failing. Or it is shearing or thickening etc. I do not like ash in my oil, you do. I like low HTHS and low Novack. There are more benefits but this is beyond the scope of this thread. You are flat-out guessing Dave, based on posts and that is the funny part. You “feel”, I love that, this and that and but will not spend $16 to$20 (but drive a vette and a lexus) to support or prove to yourself if you are incorrect or not. That again is why most oil threads are opinions at best and hold less to no merit. You have no idea if your beloved Mobil is adequate or not since you are comparing nothing to it not even know what it does for you or performs. Yea, it works but so does Supertech for $7 a gallon too. You again do not know what you have so you have no idea if you are fine or not. Again Havoline will stay up with Mobil 1 EP for ½ the price too. I like Amsoil since the UOA prove it works better. I could careless who makes it. I stated before (years ago) and it still stands, show me a better oil (UOA) that is cheaper and I will buy it. No “feelings”, no “guessing” like most have have posted. You buy “what you think makes sense” without anything to support it. That my friend is my point; guessing here. You do not risk anything (Lexus warr) wise. Slips from buying oil/filters do not show anything was even installed. If you have sludge it would show up light years before it causes problems via UOA. If you have an engine failure and need lexus to fix, if you where smart, you would be using UOA (no guessing here). If you are doing blind intervals I have seen Amsoil backup there smart customer. Non-smart are people that cannot read what their policy is. 1000 to 1 if your engine fails it is not due to engine oil but a non-related issue. I have yet to see an engine fail due to a Amsoil/redline etc engine. The warranty thing is a "setting fear" into people and the public believes it. In my years of doing UOA, I have yet to have an issue with my lexus dealer, ford dealer and Olds dealer. I am not upset, in fact I love these debates. But when people post on oil and have nothing to add valve, that is the joke. I like these threads but people always go back to something that has no basis (other then a manual) and prove there actions Prove that 5,000 is better then 6K miles or etc? You might be able to stretch our interval a few months and /or Miles if you tested it. It seems like everyone thinks UOA’s are a single use tool which is wrong here people. UOA have saved me hundreds of dollars in the past but that is again beyond this thread. For like time #4 if you do not pull your own UOA’s, on your oil, you are flat-out guessing/shooting in the dark. As we can clearly see. I give up, you are all right. No UOA are needed and “I think” I am fine is the correct way too go. It is overpriced to get oil tested for approx $18. Too expensive and it adds no value.

So a vette forum now comparing what oils? Some of Amsoil oils are poor in my eyes (XL, ASL to name a few). Now a Lexus thread about oils is using vette forum "so called data". This is my point. No one puts up hard raw data. <shaking head> This is as bad a people using BITOG site. I do not race nor would ever buy a vette. Tell the race site to put up the raw data with all variables. 1000 to 1 they are incorrect or poor data. Plus racing can has way to many issues too. I am not going indo detail since I have used Mobil EP in my ES and the numbers are poor. I gave the rest away last year since it performed less then Amsoil ASL ($25 for 5 qts). Mobil is a lesser oil in many areas (zddp for one), plus there oils have ash in them, low TBN, poor HTHS etc. You would see this in your tested your oil. IMO. In my eyes, Mobil is junk for the price since it was poor for (1) test only. You can get the same numbers using Halovine oil using LC20. I spend $26 for my oil (1 year) and 11 for a filter (rest is to my door in 2 days). That is about $8 more for better protection, less used oil, less time on car etc. If you like it, based on better choice (whatever that means), great. I just know what Mobil did in my car, and other cheaper oils. You get what you pay for. Just like Rotella oil sucked compared to Amsoil diesel oils in my diesel. To close again, pull a UOA and see what is better and stop trusting other forums posts, "think it is better", good to goes etc. You might be amazed on what you think is a better choice and does poorly.

download and read the factory service book...on this website.

oxd/tbn? oxidation control along with acid control.

Yes there are many cars using dino and at what cost too? And your time? Environmental issues? As I stated time and time again, the manual is only a guide and not set in stone nor can lexus deny anything. Per my litte pretty Lexus letter, I just have to show at least (1) oil change per year and this is in the sludge prone engine (which is BS). I can go longer since the numbers show it. I do not guess like most. For me, if I used dino oil it would cost more then what I do now. My time, gallons of used oil and used filters, etc. I have cars, I take car of doing (1) year intervals with <6,000 miles and my ES has gone over 14,000 miles in 6 months..And no fear here since it works. Again everyone is "good idea", "good to go" and so on with these short intervals. You in fact are shooting yourself in the foot here folks. There is no risk here if you can understand the benefits of engine oil and a few UOA, you are golden. If you think UOA are there only to extend oil intervals you are incorrect. If fact, that was not even why they came about. This is what I mean people do not understand UOA and most think there short drains do something for them. There time intervals are a major crap shoot and most think it means something. I bet if you spent the like 16 to $18 you would clearly see that these short drains are throwing money again. But people will spend "$50,000" and not $16….LOL These posts are still lacking correct info here. Nor will using oil longer then recommend in violation of anything. I have yet to see any car using Amsoil voiding a Lexus warranty or ANY car manufacture warranty. It IS cheaper if you utilized this tool along with a good oil. I do not know everything on oil but I have the foundation to grasp it. If you can balance a check book, you can get it. Just need to step-up to the plate. Gee, and I drain my others gas engines everyother year based on UOA. Blow peoples mind! This is my last post since again, people are posting without knowledge of oil testing and engine oils. Man, people are in fear of something out of the Lexus box.

Dude, spend the $12 on the Ea oil filter and call it a day. It HAS the best cap/eff on the market (next to a bypass). I thought the old SDF were good (based on UOA)...or find a donaldson oil filter (samething).

MadloR you mention fuel, moisture, contaminants etc. If you pulled a UOA you would clearly see the benefits here (TBN control, oxd/nov resistances etc). The points you posted are good when you are guessing here or shooting in the dark, which you are. If you have fuel issues, you have engine/injector issues. Moisture is a joke since I have yet to see any levels ever to raise a flag (in many years testing gas/diesel engines). If you have contaminants use a real oil filter (non-Toyota). Again, the problem here is UOA's prove the oil works (and very well). And yes Amsoil EA full-flow oil filters will last 25K miles. It was proven out almost double that. I will put my 98 "sludge prone" ES engine against any engine in this forum who do not pull UOA's. Why, I know what I have in it for oil and the past UOA's. I spend about $45 per year on oil/filter and will perform "to the top". Proof is in the UOA's guys and 99.999% of oil threads (this one too) miss this important tool. Most are too cheap to buy it or do not know about it; but will change oil like everyday. I take the opps side, I did not spend thousand of dollars to change too all the time. Plus I put ZERO faith in Toyota oil requirements or their warranty. I also have yet to see any issues with people using Amsoil per the guidlines here MadloR. If you used their oil you would see the benefits here. I am not knocking anyone but oil threads, like this, without proper documentation and correct info, smear the facts. IMH, pull a UOA and do not guess on the "good to go".

I do not buy their miles (never have in 14 years using). I would pull a UPA at around 12,000 miles and go from there. Their 25,000 miles is not a real world # here; that they do not tell you that. It is from a dino... If you use there Ea oil filter and their oil, kick a$$ combo here.

I think of it like this (you are fine). You can use Dot 4 brake in a Dot 3 but not visa versa. Another reason to use Amsoil ATF. One fluid does many apps. Btt I suspect more adds, oxd/tbn control and seal swealing in T-4.

check intake by windshield? Pull the factory manual and see where the air inlets are.

through a common lexus dealer posted here many times, it is $149 plus S&H.. This is a common issue with these models years. Clean your TB, instake etc. I bet 10000 to 1 it is bad. PS. Is your ECM pulling the EGR code?

It is not endless, pull a UOA and end the madness; simple and easy. Changing oil is not a good thing (unless you have spare time, and needless ammounts of used oil). If you do not know what you have to start with or end with, changing oil will do nothing but waste $$$$, time, etc. Again, this is me and I do not want to "think" or use "beliefs" about anything. I let the UOA baselines tell me what to do. It gives you the best bang for the dollar / protection (what I like)....

I would worry more about smell then color. Toyota fluid is over pimped/priced. You can use Amsoil; cheaper fluid, better all around and lasts a long long time! I love the stuff!