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mburnickas

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Everything posted by mburnickas

  1. Based on what supporting data? Also how is this related to anything on this thread? The sludge issue is over blown. If you read on this forum, posters will say that you are incorrect. I for one think the sludge issue is a joke and there is more to it. I think that why? Becasue they are people doing "past the interval stated", which is just recomended and the engine is mint/clean per UOA and pictures. Also the sludge issue, since I have the docs do not even give a time interval. They say you must show like 1 drain per year. This is old news. Just saying since you brought it up.
  2. same post as another and nothing to add. Please add something real! You are too easy and only jump on others back when "dc" on "nc" do....<sad> You prove nothing today.
  3. I cannot wait on what sale pitch or someone elses pitch you need to cling too.Please post something useful of your engine.
  4. That is data???...marketing junk....are you kidding? That proves zero and is not data at all. It is a sale pitch! It was online about 1.5 years ago ....I know I looked I am fine and find these fuuny. You still can't show any real world data on oils and now fuels.
  5. Based on what data? Please post.
  6. Add some info if you can please.
  7. Welcome to the club.:) Read the FAQ and / or download the FSM for free. That might help
  8. And Top tier is endorsed by Toyota. The same clowns that know crap on oil. Now they are fuel experts...and how did it take them to come clean on the sludge issue? Come on... If you think top tier is the end all for fuels, you are getting lazy or cheap. It will not save your over needed cleaning of your black TB either. But, what do YOU think you will gain here?? Please tell me?
  9. Why? based on what? For what reason? But that is every more dumb then 3 to 5K. .....I am calm but dog? Are we in high school?
  10. Top Tier is over rated per my testing house. As I told you before with corn 10%, you lose lubricity, fuel stablize etc. You get nothing by using TT.
  11. My point is how do you or anyone knows 3 to 5K is not good enough or okay? I would not guess my car on the market or anything that is not based on my car and its’ real world performance. The market is crap…look at the mortgage market…LOL. The general public, in my eyes, is not the best way to base anything. I am not throwing stones but people are using nothing short of guessing; as noted before. Why is 5K good, maybe 4,999 miles is better. Maybe not? Maybe 5,100 is best? People really have no clue unless they SEE the real data in THEIR car! But I use real data to support my "engine" and I can clearly see the engine wear #'s, oil data, longevity based on this. If people want to base it on a market of blinding guessing, have at it. 1000 to 1 you are wasting manpower, resources, money and un-needed filters. But on the flip side the UOA and longer drains have been used for years. Most cannot except that nor understand that; as this thread has shown. Just what I have seen time and time again. Hell, I used to do the same 3K miles then I learned about oil and what is better. Then I said in 10K miles do I want to change over 3X or once and the 1-time will get better UOA (lower acids in oils, lower wears, low NOX, Lower TAN, higher TBN, etc). Never mind the cost decrease too. I am not mad etc. I just cannot stand it when most base drains on manuals, books, opinions etc. People on here NEVER base it on concrete data and not someone else since that is poor. I can show (and have before) two model Lexus's, same duration and mine had over 3X the miles and all, that is ALL wears where lower. That means better engine longevity, performance etc. I design army trucks and the manuals have so much padding it is funny. It is a total waste but it is design/stated to save the company. As noted before, so do or major diesel manufactures. Then people say Mobil 1 is a great oil, compared to what? Based on what? The market is most times based on sales propaganda, where sold in stores etc. So some will go 3K on dino and now 5K on syn. Based on what? How did that # come about? That is my point. How did you come up with these #'s? Based on clueless market? Better safe then sorry? Based on what? What if you could go 5.500 miles and you are fine? I am not even using brands here. Just to maximize engine longevity, performance, save YOU PEOPLE money use UOA to see how engine is performing and see how engine oil is doing. PEACE OUT! :)
  12. Okay, what is a good oil if you do not test it! LMAO! The post on the chevy person means jack sh%T as I posted. Your post and others is still full of BS since you still FAIL to support what is a good oil and good drain. You lack data along with 99 % on this thread. That is a fact. If not, show me. The people that support your lack of data post are the same ones that have nothing to support what is good or not. As your posts before and after still show you have no skill on UOA, oils etc and UOA's main reason why they are designed. So $35 is a good oil; based on what? Sales manual? You have no clue what is good. I know my $40 is good since I have data to support it; that is something you lack. If you are going to debate it on a forum, at least have YOUR own data and supporting evidence. Not stories about others. I have posted that the guys had over 300+ oils changes and had no idea if they where needed and your uncle, pilot, means nothing in terms of maintance. I know JSF 135 and Raptor pilots and they would not change they oil either.
  13. Figure this out, my car has over 120K miles and yet to have a front end down. Everytime I go they say it does not need it. Tires wear mint etc! :)
  14. That is why cars have filter socks and filters.
  15. For Amsoil it is over 30+ years of ATF/fluids and well, call their Tech dept. Talk to Ed, he knows his stuff. I do not sell the stuff so I do not know all. Just know what I have used and the data for me. For me, I have done to many UOA on the stuff (engine and ATF) when I had my old 5.0, my diesel truck/tractor and now my Lexus. The stuff performed well and I drained before needed. The most I had on it was over 70K. I do not post them anymore since people do not understand it, nor care or think there old-school method works. To close, you really do not need to get a new filter for my Es. Lexus makes stainless steel filter and you could clean and re-install. PLus draining at like 15 to 20K miles is a joke. So far, Amsoil fluids are the most up-to-date products going. And that is from someone who dislikes certain aspects of there business. They wrote the book on it.
  16. Amsoil EaO are made by Donaldon Corp. They have made them for years.
  17. Weclome to LOC! :) You can overfill your engine by some and be fine.You would not hurt anything.
  18. download the FSM for free.It should again take like 30 minutes max and that is after BSing for 30% of it.
  19. Problem is people learn, I hope, and grow. Older thread are nice for ref but things do change. I say, for me, if people do not know about oils, UOA, CA, ZDDP, etc then do not beat the "proverbial dead horse". Let the people who do know post. It is the people that blindly give postings as fact that are not.
  20. So a woman who has no clue on oils went way over even a synthetic oil drain is in reference too what? If shows nothing but a woman who knows little on this subject. Again, the 3 or 5,000 miles are short of a money maker. 7,500 is what most call for using DINO oil. Most do not even read their book or know what they are "recommended" to do; not required. As your story as shown. As I noted before using FOS, MTBF even the 7,500 is a thumb suck. Dino oil will last way over what businesses pimp (to make money). I can go almost triple that and be fine using Amsoil ASM. Look at my older posts for pix and UOA to proved data for that. That is based on UOA's, not a dummy manual nor based on non-functional real-world data. Hell, in the right car, Halovine can go almost 10K miles! Then again, most people do not change there pcv, etc items and that is why they have problems, not oil. Again, the 3 and 5K are there to make money; not to prevent anything. My point still stands, I have yet to see only one (here) that shows anything to support why they change there oil at some intervals and use some oil. The rest are blindly going at some interval and think they are fine. Why dump and oil that is only 60% used? As noted before, test the oil at the normal internal you THINK you need to. 100 to 1 you are wasting money. This is not even brand related. It still blows my mind that people spend all this money on cars and will not spend $20 to see what or how their engine is running and the bonus is oil duration/performance. But Lexus will wash your car for free for $129 for an oil change….<sad>
  21. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=44973
  22. yea, it takes like 30 mintues
  23. No, posting a fact based on my past usage, testing etc...unlike others. It is funny, is this not the foundation for a forum.
  24. And how much did he waste in time, over 300+ oils changes (joke), used oil etc to save how much in wears doing this???? Being a pilot has nothing to do with aircraft longevity. When I worked on designing aircraft engines, they have more problems then you think. In fact, they require so much working on people would not fly if they knew. I respect your opinion but you have nothing to show to support it (as opinions are). That is the problem with oil debates on this forum. No one supports it with out realworld data in their own car. That is why the 3 to 5K drains are a money maker for businesses; and it shows nothing. As I noted time and time again you can have a serious problem with the engine and 99.99% people think they funny drains will help save and engine. I hope history does not repeat itself since as a population we are going in the wrong non-smarter direction.
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