mburnickas

Ok, I'm confused here. So let me try to get this straight.

10 months ago you did a full detail? and now you just redetailed it? or what you just did you don't consider a detail, and here is what it looks like 10 months after a real detail?

Yes on the 10-months ago. And yes I just re-detailed it after 10-months. I said the detail, after 10-months does not look that great. Just showing how JW holds up.

I was really hoping that I would see some serious test data posted.

You, Mr. M, refer to Blackstone.... here's a quote directory from their website and corny FAQ section.......

http://www.blackstone-labs.com/faq_gas.html

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two questions and two answers.....

"What's the best oil to use?

Ah, the million dollar question. We are an independent lab, so we don't make recommendations. It has been our experience that oil is oil, and either petroleum or synthetic-based oil will work well for just about any engine.

Come on, you're holding out on me. I should use synthetic, right?

Buddy, you should use whatever you want. Synthetic oil won't guarantee a longer engine life any more than my eating organic food will guarantee I'll live until I'm 90. We here at Blackstone generally use regular petroleum-based oil because honestly, it works just as well for us. "

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What do YOU think of those Q&A's from Blackstone??????

I take my 10% discount every chance I get! :D

The best oil is integral to what you want. Since you do not test your oil, use the cheapest Gheto-mart oil and filter. Since you buy MF towels there, pick up some oil/filter too. You will not see any diff in your eyes.

Blackstone is using the typicial PR status. And that means what? I know we tell certain people to do something etc when it benefits the company or takes them out of the loop. If you want to ride Blackstone Q&A, great. Just like Toyo when you call they give you the std answers when you know very well they know more.

I do not get it, you think you are going to live to 90 (you think) and your brother owns like 8 dealerships as you state. You should be gettting all oil changes for free since you are family. Why are you bothering here with more costly UOA (if you do them; which will not happen). I had engines (gas/diesel) that ran on both and so far, dino in the long run costed me more in the end. But do what you wish as I am sure you will. I still like someone here in 7 years to tell me why I do UOA's..

I am NOT telling you all the data since you have posted here your age (many times), IQ etc (joy) and you should know what to do. Blackstone does not test gas, additive for other people. Also mfg's for army trucks say the say thing and design to others. I have seen it daily. I cannot wait to bring up the filter data on weds dial-in...It will be the joke before going offline.

:) I overslept. Start at 5:31 am...Then it was off to cut down trees etc

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=48188

Used Blue Coral car wash, Meguiars #3 machine polish with a Sonus orange pad on an orbital, wool bonnet on orbital after that, rinsed residue and oversplash with 80% water 20% iso alcohol on a microfiber, hosed that off with water, dried, then used Klasse. No Touch spray foam on the tires.

Why would you use a wool are an orange? To me, it should be the other way around. Nice rish though! :) Not many people do that.

added better/bigger pix. It was before coffee.

That's pretty impressive, beautiful.

Thanks. Here is after 10 months in XXXXX and 25,000+/- miles and NO detailing inbetween. Lets just say the yellow clay was black and boy I love JW stuff! In fact this was after another 28 hours drive back up North to buy a house (and that is 2,150 miles) LOL

Based on some reactions here, it seems that questioning a man's knowledgeable opinions, or as is more often the case his opinionated knowledge, about things automotive, is sometimes taken by him as being almost akin to questioning his manhood. :o

Nah, it is some users here, posting above you and me think he knows it all. All this from a 60+ year old that still thinks Amsoil is an additive; but he has a 3 digit IQ. Whatever makes the seniors happy; other then 10% off. :D

RB- you are asking questions that, if you have done UOA in your past know-how and have an understanding these issues with engine, enviroment etc would be not an issue. I asked these very same questions to people years ago and still see people asking them. Not that they are wrong but when people start a debate on this very issue and these come up, not going more into it based on my first sentence here. In fact I have got answers to all these with my past engines testing. Heck, I have seen the data from a few mfg when we selected an engine for the MRAP.

Put it this way, you could not PAY me to use a toyo filter when or if there is a better one like K&N (oil), Mobil & Amsoil EaO. In fact most filters out there are behind the times on filtration. Compare a toyo filter to donaldson it is so far out of wack......

Quick background: Moved down south and moving out. But 10 months and over 25K miles here is the outcome. No before since it was start at 5:35 am.. Drove up back up in Northeast (bought a house) and selling house in Spanish Country!

Just did a quick 156 minutes external detail. I know the time since the sons blankets where in the steam dryer and it just finsihed when I put equ away!

1. Washed with Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine;

2. Clayed (yellow) using Blue Mist Final wipe as Lube...

3. Applied Jeff Werkstatt Prime Acrylic, Makita 9227C using LC white pad @ 1,100 rpms.

4. Applied Jeff Werkstatt Acrylic Jett Trigger with LC Blue pad @ 1,2000 RPMS on Makita.

5. Used Chemical Guys Liquid Extreme Shine on lower plastic (under doors).

6. Used ONR on rims and tires (lazy) .

7. Tires where cleaned with Optimum Tire shine.

8. Rims sealed with PB EX-P. Left to dry entire time, then wipped.

1 out of 10 it looks like maybe a 6..

I agree. Over the years I've read many threads on oil filters and oil types. The one problem I have is that I have never read any documented certified unbiased test data to prove to me that there is really that much difference and that whatever difference there may be can be proven to cause substantial wear on engine parts that are lubricated with the crankcase oil!!

Doing a used oil analysis (UOA) on two oil filters without correlating the wear particle factors to any kind of tests on how many MORE wear particles in the oil that was not properly filtered by a "junk" oil filter, AND then proving how many more wear particles will cause a significant or substantial amout of wear in the engine that will decrease it's life and by how much!! SHOW ME SOME CERTIFIED TEST DATA!!!! Until then, to me it's all conjecture, BS, and hype. That's just my worthless opinion. :)

And why would one of the world most advanced and finest automobile manufacturers use "junk" oil filters? I'm sure someone will come up with a logical reason.

Oh yeah, if you do some research I believe you will find that engine failure in today's modern engines will NOT be caused by oil or oil filters, if normal periodic maintenance services are performed and under average driving conditions.

The filters are AVERAGE or junk when you compare the eff /cap ratings per proper SAE standards to other (hence the cheap price and build of them)...But that is my opinion.

In my years of testing there are more non-linear wear patterns, stuck valves in filters, poor or huge wears that causes issues down the road on engine with filters then oil. I know what I have seen. On cars and the average joe, they cannot understand UOA, do not want to spend the money etc on them. I told you the story prior.

You again are correct and Blackstone, UOA, CAT and Allison are all incorrect on there tribal knowledge based on filtration. I should throw in Donaldson filters too. I will gladly forward your comments to these people on of weekly telecom for Marine / Army trucks. Good thing we caught this early. When a see a 4-star general along with troops that work on them in Irag/Afan I will tell him/them your comments. I will see them Wed in fact . But it is a worthless opinion so that will help. Then again I have done these tests that you want via Dyson Analysis but they are worthless; not really for $65 each test. But I feel this is a lossing battle with you since you are the same guy that thinks Amsoil is an additive..Case closed here but I will tell the mfgs on your findings. I have too.

I will be detailing mine tomorrow morning...been almost 1-year...I do not have OCD but I will be waking up at my normal time to start; 4:20 am!!! :) Done by 9 am

I would be so bold as to guess that the average Luxus RX400h battery will last 5-7 years. In fact, most OEM batteries last over 5 years. Besides, of all the RX400h owners who post here, only a tiny percentage have had a permanent battery failure.

Now add in the fact that edhLexus has had two batteries fail tells me that chances are good that something else is causing the problem. The shotgun approach (throw in another battery) to solving a problem like this is risky at best. Neon has high current draw from his stereo equipment, so his solved issue does not seem to match that of edhLexus.

What we DON'T need is a massive argument over which battery is best.

Dave

I agree a new battery is NOT fixing the issue. I also agree we do not need a "massive argument" but if someone posts facts on why something is better, I will take it. Until then, I loved tossing Optimas, at 38 lb cells, in the trash...BANG! LOL

This is the hybrid thread, where the OP is asking about a hybrid application. Your avatar shows a non-hybrid. Perhaps your optima experience relates to a different story? We're speaking of the Yellow Top (not the Red), and we're speaking of hybrid application. Haven't yet seen / heard of failure for those two applications. Would be glad to know, though, if you've heard of any failure(s) in that specific regard.

Gary

So what or why does an AVATOR have to do with anything? It is a pic???? I can show a jet, or even bart simpson..LOL It does not matter. Optima in general is crap in my eyes since I have owned 2 now that failed in two cars. They warranty process is a big cluster %^&*. Not integral to hybrid at all but they failed. If you like them great, if you have not tried that save your money (aka that is my point).

A battery either used for your "specific regard" or non-"specific regard" related to a certain manufacture, aka Optima. Which is over pimped more then HEAD ON.

Methinks that somebody is about to become a non-member here. :D

Just my two cents as they say.

Tom

But when their own mods post worse threads, I have PDF'd them, whatever..I do not have time for this double edge BS!...oppps! Kicker is I have more time on this thread thensome of their mods here...WTF It is as bad as some mods post BSing on oil when they are flat-out wrong and I got them in a corner...Opps again

mburnickas,

We are not high schoolers here, so please adjust your language (I took the liberty to do it this time). Optima batteries have their place as Absorbent Glass Mat types. In my experience, AGM batteries in general require the use of a battery tender when a modern vehicle in which it resides is not driven for more than a couple of weeks at a time. The Yellow top is a deep-cycle battery that can take heavy drains and recharges (like a marine battery) without suffering permanent damage. However, deep-cycle batteries don't normally last as long as a normal battery if the normal battery is charged regularly.

I agree and they are CRAP and that is not a bad word on your language here. I know it is crap, I tried them. Sorry I can post what happened to me. You should not have edited it since I can show a lot worse by your other mods here....Play by the same rules, as in high school. LOL

Well then, he knows it all! Sorry they CRAP. I know, I tossed 38 lbs in the trash of their Red top...Over pimped battery in my eyes. Whom does a crank start? I had way better luck with Costco battery & better warranty (if you need it)..and cheaper.

EDIT: fixed mod "adjustment" since it is cleaner then other MOD posts..

I was in CT early this week. 87 was $4.25 and diesel was $4.85

I find it interesting that Lexus has been using the same oil filter in their most expensive V8 cars for nearly 20 years, although the part # did change when the filters were manufactured outside Japan.

I seriously doubt that Lexus is supplying "junk" filters to use in their most expensive cars.

And our Camry V6 uses the same filter used in most or all Lexus V6 cars. It seems to be doing just fine on Mobil 1 and Toyota filters at 100,000 miles. A friend of mine drove his Camry to nearly 400,000 miles on regular oil and Toyota filters before he parked it in his pasture -- really, it's in his pasture -- for other reasons. Using a Toyota filter sure didn't hurt his car either.

Okay, I will use a less threating comment. They are at best an average filter and nothing special. Even Wal-mart is in the same class here as toyo; use theirs (Gheto-mart) since they are cheaper and the same quality. But if you compare them to others [filters] that are junk. Factoid here.

Plus Toyo is a little late in the game on oils and filters.

I never said anything that they would not work or anything like that. They ARE better filters out there and Lexus is at the bottom of the pile. Easy way to tell is pull a UOA with a toyo filter and one with an Mobil 1, K&N, Amsoil EaO and see the wear numbers and oil props. You could not GIVE me a toyo filter. I could use the filters noted above and last well over 15K+ miles.

But if someone changes oil like every 5K miles, use the cheapest oil and filter you can get since you change it so often.

My Corvette has an oil life monitor; its algorythm determines when the oil should be changed based upon driving habits and conditions. The manual states that I should go by this monitor's recommendation or 1 year, whichever occurs first. Since our Lexus doesn't have this feature, and to stay within its warranty requirements, I change my oil every 5000 miles or 5 months. Even tough you can wait longer, you risk having warranty issues, should Lexus question you about this for something that is related to oil.

That being said, I should mention that the only way for you to know without a doubt whether your oil is okay is to have it analyzed.

Yes BMW had a similar system based on usage that trigered an oil change.

I will save my Amsoil and Toyota filter change reciepts and change it every 10k.

The bad man of warranty does not scare me.

I will see Lexus in court if need be.

But I doubt anything but good will come of this.

Better for my engine, better for the environment etc. etc.

This is why I bought a hybrid is't it?

How will a recipt show anything? Not starting anything but to show reciepts does not provide proof that oil was even installed in any engine or yours? Just shows you bought a certain oil. They will have a rep from toyo pull a UOA to prove it was installed if oil was in the running for the main issue. Also skip the toyo filter. They are junk.

Try some Maguiars ScratchX on it and rub gently.

Yup, fillers here.

But post a picture since unless it is bad, a nice detailer can remove.

Wait till you see part 6 with pick up's lol.

Well, that is 30 seconds closer to death! :)

Someone else is going to have to confirm the lucas stuff for you, as I won't be using it. Granted, I don't think I've ever heard anyone say anything bad about here, but as a senior member with several years of activity on here, I can say that 9 out of 10 transmission problems that have come up on here, all seem to share a similiar characteristic...something other than oem "or amsoil" fluid in the system. I'm sure it's good stuff, but I'm too chicken to mess with it in my cars.

I agree. I used Lucas in fuel (not oil) and it did nothing and I have read some neg comments on it. Thanks and use what your wish as I will not be using Lucas stuff anymore.

bad battery, you have something draining it (easy to see) or poor alt etc......just like jim stated.

There is no best I feel. You can read on other forums and the owners/mods push some product based on $$$ and limited testing.

LC20 is from http://lubecontrol.com/ I like them the best based on my limited UOA's and the below.

service is great, very nice to talk too, been in business over 60+ years, low cost, etc

My '97 es300 has a slight lurching feeling when driving at speeds of 35mph to 45mph. I just had some engine work done, but they did not address this problem, as they said "They couldn't get it to do it". Could it be a problem with the transmission? It also lurches when I first put it in drive.

miles on car? miles on tranny fluid? Last changed? Have you reset the ECM then driven?

Just an afterthought. Replace your PCV valve when you get a chance. It only takes 5 minutes and with the RX300 sludge issue it was partially blamed on the PCV system being too small for the engine displacement. So you want it working at it's full capacity.

Also do the PVC seal too (if it has one).