mdrx350md

It seems like the previous owner neglected the maintenance. I have a 08 RX350 with 106,200 miles bought with 7 miles and not a single thing has broken or malfunctioned. However, the struts are totally done and probably has been the last 20K miles. I can hear the rumbling sound from the rear struts bouncing around. I has caused my tires to cup a little. If the nav is bothering you, I believe you can get a hack for it. It involves taking out your head unit which is a little too involved for my taste.

I didn't find much alternatives to aftermarket struts (actually any parts) for the RX350. The KYB rears struts even right now aren't even available in the US. For some Toyotas, KYB is the OEM supplier. Like I said you don't have much options for the soft ride...except to change out the struts/shocks if they are worn to get some responsiveness back. I keep my tires inflated at 35PSI COLD on all corners and I get decent MPG and even tire wear and better handling. You'd be surprised how much the handling characteristics change from 30 to 35 psi. I guess you could get some anti-roll bars and lowering springs but it might change the driving characteristics too much and you might hate how it rides afterwards. I personally would never mod a RX350, it does what it's suppose to do very well. It's the epitome of a "luxury" suv known for being quiet and comfy...unfortunately there is no flip button for sport mode. I have a 2010 Sequoia Plat with air suspension and it actually makes a huge handling difference between comfort and sport settings. I believe some RX350 come with air suspension, maybe test drive one to see if that makes a difference. Otherwise get a FX50S haha. I've been eying one for months. As far as struts being s DIY project, all you need are basic mechanics tools: sockets, breaker bar, torque wrench and spring compressor but this is one of the more involved projects with moderate difficulty. This should never be your first project...only reserved for people who can do fluid changes, brakes, etc comfortably and on the fly. There is some danger involved because if the spring decompresses accidentally someone is going to the hospital with a major gash or a crushed skull. If you're a beginner start with fluids and brakes first, they are very easy. The money saved from the fluids alone will pay for your struts and labor. All maintenance performed in the past 106K have probably been under 600 dollars for the parts (engine oil/filter, air filters, coolant, gear lube, v-belt, brake fluid, 1 set of brake pads, power steering fluid, spark plugs, bearings and struts). Not a single thing has broken or been faulty. It's quite amazing actually. On the other hand, my 05 G35 with 136K I've spent maybe 3000 on parts alone and that doesn't include 2 sets of tires. I order OEM parts from ebay and toyotapartszone.com. It's the least I've spent on any car. You have to do very little on the up keep on these cars to get to 200K.

Just in case someone was curious about KYB GR-2/Excel-G shock for their RX350. I found no results on google or tirerack for specifically a RX350. I installed the two front struts on my sister's 08 RX350 AWD with 106K today and I would say the ride is very comparable to stock shocks. It might be a tad stiffer but so subtle I highly doubt the average Lexus owner would notice. It took about 3.5 hours and I changed the bearings as recommended on the manual. Total cost $285, struts 225 and bearings 60. The ride did improve quite a bit, as at 106K, all struts were "tired" to say the least. The rear ones are kinda bad and driving on the highway you can hear a little rattling noise coming from them. It's causing the tires to get uneven wear like scales on a lizard. It's annoying as heck and I am waiting for KYB retailers to carry the rears, as corporate said they were just released a few weeks ago. I highly recommend them. I put them on also my sister's 04 accord which she used for 80K with no problems.

It doesn't make a huge difference. My sister's 08 has 106,200 on it now. I put in Pennzoil High Mileage 10W-30 (March-October if I have it around), Pennzoil High Mileage 5W-30 (most of the time) and Motorcraft 5W-20 (if available, it's a Ford brand oil and one of the best values around). I like the HM due to the high mileage and in hope to keep the seals in check. I use all the oil for 6,000 miles and change out the OEM Toyota filter every other oil change. No difference in gas mileage and no more particulate by doing the filter every other change. I always overfill by 0.5 quart. I stopped using synthetic a year or so ago because I don't really use any benefits of it...extreme climates, tracking the car and long intervals. I rather change it out at 6K than go longer on synthetic...I ended up changing it at 9K anyway, so it's cheaper to use conventional aka dino oil. I've read all the UOAs etc and visit bobistheoil guy a few times a week and imho find synthetiic a waste for me. Just for reference I was a huge synthetic fan as I probably used up about 250 quarts (everything from Amsoil, Pennzoil Platinum, Castrol syn, Rotella T6 5W-40, Valvoline synthetic, Supertech synthetic) in the last 6 years or so in multiple cars and found no real benefit. Syn only came in handy when I was doing 10-12K oil changes on my sister's 04 Accord Coupe for about 120K then I went with the routine above. I sold it at 196K due to transmission issues as the engine was running like a champ with redlines every single day of its life. As for different weights...I use Mobil 15W-40 "diesel oil" in my 05 G35 coupe and see no mpg difference from various 5W-30 weights.

I think the Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza are one of the best on the market. Had them for the blizzard last year and got around (due to work) with no problems. Dry,wet,snow performance is best I've had for suvs. I don't see them as noisy in the RX350. BUT maybe you like it dead quiet. I have them on my 10 sequoia plat. These are the only tires for my suvs as long as they keep selling them.

I'd make sure the the tires are properly inflated and see if your windshield is OEM or have ever been changed. I had my windshield changed this summer with oem and caused a lot of wind noise above 50 mph due to improper sealing at installation. Second time, they sealed it better and the noise went away. The hissing and constant wind noise did irritate me quite a bit.

I have a little over 90K on my 08 RX350 without air suspension and looking for new struts. Anyone use the KYB GR-2s? I see they only make the front two so I'm thinking if there aren't much aftermarket struts (from what it seems)... I have to order the oems. Thanks in advance.

I own/owned a few japanes cars since new (including 98 Corolla 90Kmiles, 03 TL-S 79K, 04 Accord 196K, 02 Odyssey 130K, 10 Sequoia 25K, 10 Venza 8K, 05 G35 122K) and late model Toyota/Lexus have been the easiest to work on, as I do most maintenance myself, and require the least amount of "maintenance" vs. other brands. Also, Toyota and Lexus cars have the least amount of problems from what my friends and I've experienced. First the transmission oil never needs to be changed unless you tow. I am told the RX350 does not have grease points for the chassis unlike the sequoia. The schedule is not the exact guideline from Lexus but it's what I follow. If you have some type of extended warranty you should follow what they say to do and keep all the receipts with a record of all the work. Since it's a used vehicle, I would run auto-rx in your next oil change. If you have all the records showing it had good oil change intervals then maybe not. Much debate on this topic so do your research but I like the product. The accord was burning 1-1.25 quarts on 10K pennzoil platinum synthetic oil changes around 80-110K. I ran auto rx as noted and it dropped the consumption to .25-.5 every 10K until i sold the car 70K later. I have a 08 RX350 without air suspension. 91,000 miles. zero problems. no repairs outside what's listed below. MY maintenance schedule: 6K conventional oil 10K synthetic oil with 1/4 quart top off at 5K auto-Rx every 50K every oil change: pump out and replace power steering & brake fluid in the reservoir only engine and cabin filter change 30K brake flush every 2 years or 50K rear differential and center case fluid 50-60K (this makes the car ride much smoother imho, I used amsoil severe gear oil 75W-90) coolant drain and fill 50K (overkill by some but cheap at 20-30 bucks) PCV valve 90K Struts 90K spark plugs 100K (huge pita to get to the rear three plugs, do not attempt unless you want to disassemble the intake manifold) belts (not the timing chain) 100K Hope this gives you an idea.

you'll be losing mpg with 87 octane so the money you're saving won't be that substantial in addition to possible "damage" you could be doing to your car. my gf runs regular in her 06 TL and the way the car feels with 87 and 93 is night and day. It's just not worth it. If you're able, do your own oil changes and the money saved there can go towards your "premium fuel fund" The cost of conventional oil and genuine toyota filter runs $19.

Great instructions and pix! One question: Does the filter panel have a hinge that allows the "door" to drop down out of the way or???/ Thanks much. wh2 remove the two bolts and the panel comes out...align the two "teeth" when putting it back it. nothing to worry about

Does anyone have a link or short description that they can cut and paste of a coolant drain and fill on a 08 RX350? I've tried searching but nothing substantial. The dealer told me to wait until 90K but I want to do it at 60K for cheap insurance. I've tried searching for it on the highland but didn't find much either. If you have a DIY for the automatic trans, that would be extremely helpful too. Thanks in advance.

I bought one the 65/67 from walmart but it kept slipping so I got a 65mm from pepboys and it works like a charm. I buy the filters from Toyota for $4.95 (they end in product code number YZZA1). This was confirmed by the Lexus dealership. I change oil on Hondas and Inifinitis at our house and this car is the easiest and cleaniest of the all. I've been running Pennzoil Conventional for 5W-20 6K miles and Pennzoil Platinum for 12K miles. The UOA (Used Oil Analysis) said I could have ran the synthetic to 14K miles but I'll stick to 12K to be safe. I put in 7 quarts of oil every time. However, if you're a stickler about warranty, change it at every 5K as per manual with conventional, using synthetics at 5K on a 6.7 quart sump is pretty wasteful. My 08 has 51K miles on it now and the only thing I've done is oil changes, air filters and one brake flush at 30K. Hope this helps. The dealer stated to wait until 90K for the auto trans fluid and coolant. However, does anyone know the DIY for the coolant drain and fill. It's such cheap insurance (even with toyota fluid prices) to do a drain and fill and I don't feel comfortable leaving coolant in for 90K.