Toysrme

The Brake light pertains to the parking brake switch, the brake fluid level, and the brake lights. I find the majority of the time, a brake light is out & you don't know it because the brake lights are dual filiment bulbs.

alpine speakers in general fairly well suck, all of the coax speakers are trash, all of their mid-level components are junk aswell. focals are overpriced. get some JBL's, or kickers. You can find them around $50 new if you know where to look. Eric the head unit is not enough to power "good" 6 1/2" speakers without distortion at higher levels as they start to play bass & midbass. Underpowered speakers is the quickest way to blow a set up (minus just flat out supplying several times more power than they can actually handle.) JBL ftw. There is no point in changing the factory speakers to the low end & low end of mid-tier speakers aslong as the factory speakers are not blown out. If you're going to go, then atleast do it half way right! :)

Petrolium products are priced like this, Third world contry -> USA -> Rest of the world Yeah, it's about $18-30usd on average depending on if you get synthetic, or EP 15,000miles.

and to add to that, your engine won't run at all without the afm connected for more than it takes for the coolant to come up to temperature. you're running solely on the cold start injector & residual fuel pressure. When the AFM is not plugged in you loose the fuel pump (The activation switch for the fuel pump relay is not connected & tripped), and the injector pulse widths stay at 0.0ms. As in.. they don't squirt fuel.

it's because whoever is troubleshooting your car doesn't know how it works to begin with. take your new afm & get your money back. check for vacuum leaks, then check the fuel pressure

I so highly doubt that unless you've ripped the wire harness out by accident.

idler pulleys / hydraulic tensioner.

It's not 98 octane, it's 98 ron. we run octan, which is a combination of ron & mon ratings. You just use ron ratings. 98 ron would be the equivilant of our 93 octane.

The carburator is GONE...! With the advent of Fuel injection and knock sensors the need for premium fuel is basically obsolete. If the engine tends to knock or ping the mixture is simply enriched slightly, enough to prevent it. Except for knock/ping due to lugging the engine with a manual transmission. well, technically that's not true. The knock loop retards the ignition timing in steps, and it does not touch fueling. and it should also be noted, that except for pure race bread OEM engine management systems (see Bosch's), or aftermarket EMS. knock sensor loops only operate at a relatively small, high rpm range. Normally it would be 3500rpm'ish to 5500rpm'ish. Anytime you're not in that rpm range, the loop is not active. (which is also why most engines can still be made to ping at part throttle accelleration under certain circumstances. the knock loop is simply not active at that point) but yeah, premium fuel is still needed on some engines, but you can get away with it now-a-days without any damage inccured. I wouldn't want to run a newer engine rated for 91octane on 87 for it's entire life, but the occational tankfuls in a row of a lower octane are not going to give any particularly wear to the engine. over time, there would be some pitting on the piston face if you were pinging during the process, but that's obvious. :)

yes they do... and K&N is bull*BLEEP*. it's just for newbies that like throwing money away for no reason.

20 years ago you could still buy what wuold be classified as 80 octane by today's standard. you could saturate it with something stupid, or you could leave it in the tank for 6-9 months.

You first two are completely lost. Shayan your engine was designed not only to run no higher than 87octane, but it is so ungodly de-tuned you could most likely run 80 octane & still not trigger the knock feedback on the OEM engine. Runniong any higher than 87 will do nothing but grossly increase emsssions, reduce power output, and reduce economy.

The alts are direct swaps between the transverse v6's. You can step it up to the 160amp highlander/sienna alt if you want. Eh, I'd charge the battery & check the alt output from there.

http://www.tigerjapanese.com/ Has been sued thrice by MR2 v6 swaps for JDM 3vz-fe's in the mr2 community rescently. With three good results. I won't speak for them personally, but that's the by far best/safest/most confirmed thing going right now. Right now $550usd for a jdm 3vz-fe, $290 for an A540e. Cheap shipping. Not going to beat free residential delivery with a free lift gate. Pay you some extra money for a cart, or rent one & wheel those SOB's from the gate to the driveway. Killer deal... Get a set of nitroseal head gaskets, and a general gasket rebuild kit & reubild them both for about $200 in your driveway so they're 90% fresh. Then swap them in. Probably talking $1200 for a re-gasketed engine & transmission to your door. If you can do the swap, I dont' see why you couldnt' do it for $1500usd. if you were paying someone, I dont' see why it'd cost more than 2 grand. At 2grand if you drove the car for 6 months longer, it'd average out to being almost identical to a base line Camry LE payment 2-3 years old at your age, with your credit & having someone co-signing with you. (good luck getting a sub $300/m payment as a teenager on a late model car you could actually get a real car loan for!). Tell that mechanic you have a better source for a complete engine & transmission. and that he can rebuild it when he gets it. You'll give him a new set of headgaskets to go in it & he can use whatever else he wants. Timing belt & water pump should be replaced at that time if you've got another $150. Along with the pressure caps & thermostat. Check ther adiator while the engine is out... God fobrid it's clogged & you ruin a new engine.

i still think it's the injectors. plugs will cause a weak fire, or misfire, but won't grossly increase fuel consumption.

Eh, cna't get it all the time. thought i saw it 94 COP, but i didn't look close enough.

It's a 94, tell him to change his *BLEEP*ing oil more often LMAO! LTNS Jason, but use the img tags on the post & engine bay shots for an itnernal problem don't tell very much. :) :) :)

Let us know in 5-15 years from now. :) They're good around 10 years.

Not really. Just take the top speed before & after, then calculate the aerodynamic loss. That will tell you the cd. Oh, and keep in mind that the 3vz-fe in your car at low (cruising) rpm's literally makes 50-100% more power than the 1mz-fe that replaced it.

LoL! Na, it aint the cd. :P Check the o2 sensors & the injectors. If you want, lean it out acouple of clicks & add alittle timing. May pick-up a mpg. If you do alot of highway driving, I calculated my cd to drop down to sub 30's when I amde a larger undertray.

Remember it's not the cd that tells the story. It's only 1/2 the equation. It's cd & frontal cross-section that tells the story. While the later cars have margionally lower cd's, they also grew in frontal area. And when it comes to measuring the cd. The longer the object, the easier. :) Which is why both modern semi-trucks with trailers, and mid-sized SUV's with roof-racks both have cd's around .5! 89-91 Don't know, get on Lexus.com & look up the origianl es 250 ART brochures. 92-96 .320 97-01 .29 01-06 .28 07+ .28 But again... Frontal area is just as important as the cd.

The higher the pressure, the longer it takes the coolant to boil. You're perfectly fine. 1.4-1.6bar would be a common upgrade for a 1 bar system.

Oh my god somebody besides me finally said it! Brembo blank rotors Hawk HPS pads Change brake fluid to dot 4 To keep the rotor from rusting, paint it with silver high-temp paint before installing on any surface that will nto be scrubbed clean by the brake pad. The rotor will always have a clean appearance & will somewhat match the color of must chrome / aluminum / mag type wheels. Slotted rotors serve the purpose of scraping melted brake pad material from the face of the brake pad. But... It takes laps on an actual road corse on good pads to achive that. No need for larger than stock calipers. Stock calipers will activate ABS at well over 70mph. That means you don't have enough traction for the braking effort your brakes can currently provide. Upgrading the brake effort further will not shorten your stopping times an inch.

The AFM is the correct term for your mass airflow sensor. You have a Vane AirFlow Meter. The failure rate is microscopic. If it was repaced, it was most likely replaced in error of another problem than replaced because it had actually failed. The ECU is the engine computer. Swap the parts from one to the other.

What about the IAC valve? They normally stick & you can usntick them with some cleaning. CV joints are a fact of life. If you don't maintain the boots & geep the joint greased with the correct grease at all times. The joints fail. Big deal, they're $75 a pop. Takes about an hour, or two to remove the first axle & 1/2 the time to do the second at the house with a torch, prybar, basic handle tools. Motor mounts, suspensions mounts. All a fact of life son. Rubber gets old & splits. Wouldn't matter what car you had. At that age guess what. There's not a chance in hell unless it has literally sat in an ar conditioned building. I very highly doubt the AFM itself went out. Ther eis simply no way you have an ECU problem. We don't have a rack & pinion steering. We have a power rack and pinion gear with a rotary control valve! j/k LoL! I sooo couldn't help that. :D So replace the door latch assembly. it's not hard, it's like a $50-75 part for the handle assembly. All this stuff is relatively minor.