Toysrme

It would be more reliable. The uz v8's are million mile engines when cared for. The v6's would probably be 500,000m engines/drivetrains. On the other side, there is no Camry parts chain association with the other vehicle. That means in a relative world. Mechanical repairs can be much more expencive. (And ES/camry's of the same generation of the v8 lexi do not compair. You have to trade up in years on the Camry platform to be the equivilant of an LS. Say a gen 5+ Camry = Gen 1-2 LS400.) SC400's are good cars. Especially for going fast.

Anything over 13.8v is fine. Anything over 14v is candy. All the v6 highlander alts should swap. They're MZ block v6's also lifted straight out of the Camry platform. :) ya for us woot! I wouldn't go to the expence of upgrading the alt if you don't have an amp & some good audio equipment.

For this car all you can do is go dealer (sucks & expencive). Go Bosla (Just as bad design wise with cheaper pipe), or custom. You can't swap a y-pipe from another engine/car no. The cat just has to be 2.25-2.5". The OEM cats are not bad, they're 2.5". They're just old & get restrictive with age. The cat convertor itself. The cat back is 2.25". A nice resonator, and the OEM muffler. It's not like perfec,t but it's not particularly restrictive, so it'd be small horsepower gains from changing the cat-back. The best mod N/A is a y-pipe. Especially for the money. The timing you just set the car in diagnostic mode (Jump TE1 & E1). Hook the timing light to the #1 spark plug wire. Loosen the two 12mm nuts holding the distributor in place. Point the gun at the crankshaft pulley & see where it's at on the scale. Stock should be 10*btdc. You'd want to adjust it to 15-17*btdc for more throttle responce & alittle more power. Once the dizzy is set where you want it. Tighten the bolts back.

Eh I just don't care abot gas prices anymore. The civic can get 70mpg+ using pulse & glide driving & I know exactly how to make the ES 300 get near 30mpg highway if I actually felt like it.

quoting myself like a week ago elsewhere.

LoL! I know. I love it! Long tube headers must be custom built. So anywhere that builds custom long tube headers. Me tehehe, I'm building a set now, but IDT I'll ever do any more again for under 800-900usd. There is waaay too much effort involved in it. :\ Y-pipe. $340usd without a cat, $400usd with a cat. Prices shipped ups lower 48 states. The timing can be adjusted with a timing light & the distributor. The AFM you cut the top off & loosen the cog 5clicks, sometimes 10clicks. Depends. For an intake, I'd personally just build one using an AFM adapter & a pod filter. They really only give a couple of horsepower, so no reason to go haywire spending lots of money on one. The sound is spectacular, and replacement filters are cheap as sin. Y-pipes by themselves give 15-20bhp over stock. (If your cat is trashed it'll give 20+ easily at say redline/fuel cut.) Unofficially, from a test drive I took on these headers b4 I had to change them up abit. I'm expecting 20-30bhp out of them over stock. Definately an increase in power of just a y-pipe in a broader rpm range, but I won't say it doubled the power gain. I'm not sure. We'll find out later when they get on the guy's car. I'm sending him my gtech pro/comp so we can get some form of opinion on them.

I bought my 93 for less than 9,000 in 2003. To which over 8000 of that came from an insurance settlement. I don't want to here no 20-40K bull*BLEEP* lol! only idiots buy brand new cars as much as they depreciate. I can't afford the gas I drive atleast 110m/day. Civic for the *BLEEP*ing win. I can get easily 70mpg with pulse & glide. lol! Kills sub 20mpg in the ES 300. If gas hits $3/g again in Alabama. I'm not paying anything for it. Getting my !Removed! a pell grant just to pay gas. lmao Then you rich folks can pay my gas. :P

Because I have a long *BLEEP*ing way to drive every day. $26.95 to fill the civic. And I always drive it until it starts cutting out. meaning 11g out of an 11.5g tank. $41.65 to fill the ES. Threads like this I find are alittle moot at this point. http://www.gasbuddy.com/ Shows youe verybody at onet ime.

The 4vz-fe is a 3vz-fe that has been destroked to 2.5L. It is subject to all common Toyota failures. Including the weak pre multi-layer steel headgaskets that will blow quickly once you overheat the engine & warp the heads.

Firewall.

Flush it, then run wahtever you want.

You can just change the offending sensor, but around that mileag they normally become increasingly un-responcive & read increasingly richer. Which is why gas mileage starts going down. ;) I wouldn't change the post-cat sensor until you had a trouble code for it. Its only purpose in life is to tell the ECU the cat still works. It has no bearing on engine tuning. lenore - you can if you want too. If the mileage is the same the ones you ahve are probably still functioning descently.

bank 1 sensor 1 is the right hand bank (rear) bank 2 sensor 1 is the front bank (left).

Oxygen sensors are making you run rich. You can clean the MAF wire with a q-tip too, search for that. Fuel, not ignition.

I wouldn't I had kappas / Kappa components all around & fairly entry level Polks kick the living crap out of them.

Y-pipe will add 15-20bhp depending on cat/no cat /high flow cat. Intakes can add acouple. Cat-back doesn't really do much of anything. About like an intake, afew peak horsepower & alot of sound. You can adjust the ignition timing & A/F ratio for about 10-15bhp give or take how far off yours is. Clean out the intake & combustion chambers, grind down some of the ACIS smoothe. That's some throttle responce. Port the heads, unshroud the valves & get a good 3 angle valve job. That's abunch. 20-30bhp. Run a 75-125 wet shot of n2o. Quickest thing for $500. A good set of long tube headers w a proper y-pipe will also make good gains. The crap TRD S/C can be ground down to fit. And let's talk custom turbos. :) Self-pimpage. I make 3vz-fe y-pipes. :D About finished with 1 right now. Also making a set of long tube headers, and probably going to make a boy a bolt on turbo kit later this year. (Winter)

Sounds more like a load of crap to me. Get home & take the plus out & see how they look. While you're at it do a compression check. That'll tell you about the rings & valve seat seal. Worst case, put a new PCV valve in it.

Which makes it that much more awesome. Especially with large electrical loads. Just means it costs alot more to buy one.

Ohhhh pretty much the top of the transmission. Not a hard fix. LoL I don't think anyone would ever buy my ES 300, less it had 300bhp+ running through it. No other way to explain some of the *BLEEP* that's been done to it over the years lmao. Really, I'd like to start over hah. Or have this one working & do an mr2 v6 swap. Not becuase I like MR2's, they're just the most rediculously fast thing for the money. And not quite as !Removed! as a Miata. :D

It's a cable + electrical system, the dual system got axed shortly there-after (or shortly before I forget for once). Change the wheel speed sensor.

What do you want the end result to be? or what speakers will you be using?

Spend $20 replacing all the tail lights ;)

You're paying $150 for services & $600 to rent a car for afew hours. That's not very smart if you ask me. Services rendered? They put a can of BG44 in the tank, changed the wiper blades, changed the oil & powersteering fluid. Then wrote checks by some parts. Then they have somebody getting paid $7.50 an hour to "clean" the vehicle? Ew. Those are the same guys that use rotary buffers with year old wool pads on them to "wax" a car.

40w RMS is just bearly getting into the rms range of quality 6 1/2" speakers. You're still underpowering most descent quality ones. If alpine is all you have to choose from, then get the F450. Remember, you can always trim the power down. No, the stock panel speakers will not like more amperage. That 17w rms head unit is probably almost perfect for the stock speakers. You're better off 25% over, than 25% under in the long run. blk - db650 are great mid-ranage speakers. I put 4 in my little cousin's boat off a 450w rms amp. They sound great. I put my spair pair of db6500's + my spare amp in my beater civic... They're worth more than the civic lmao! (Not kidding) In all honesty, I no longer support Infinity. I swear to god I'd rather have a pair of KS65 co-axial speakers than the 6 1/2" Kappa Component set I use to have. They just seemed like such a waste of money after I used them longer & longer. Especially in a 92-96 ES, where you have the dash speakers to provide a GOOD soundstage & you can't get a good component placement neways. I pretty much stick solely to kickers L7 sub's & depending on the price of a system, kicker, or Polk for everything else. If there's alittle more money to work with, Polk's are just that much better than nearly verything else I've ever heard that is even semi-affordable for car/marine audio. The thing is, is that you can displace so much blah with that. KS kicker's are just flat out better than anything else you find floating around in that price segment. Pioneer, blaupunkt, alpine, kenwood, sony, RF, JBL. Ew. & if you need more from there. Entry level Polk's can be had for little if you know what you're doing. And component sets are another thing I don't do anymore. Unless you can put the entire set in the dash facing you. It's simply not worth the cost. They don't sound enough better. (Price/Performance trumps all...) The main purpose of a component set is improved sound staging & unless you can get the sound stage infront of you, paying a 50% markup VS the same coax set, or a BETTER coax set of the same price is pointless IMHO.

985.00 AUD = $798.444 USD Exactly why noone goes to Lexus for service. 5,000-7,500 miles seems to be the sweet spot for filter life. Some oils can go longer, but you get into doing other things in the process.