Toysrme

Exactly LoL! atleast you're not a prick without a since of humor lol those are the worst kind. Anyways, if you want to go fast it takes work. Changing fuel wont do it.

Octane boosters can/do raise the octane of the fuel, however they do NOT do what you are wanting them to do. Which is give you more power.

Give it a shot man, there's just a chance that all the reman's will leak & not work. Not sure why... Just something about the powersteering systems in general.

I don't have a personal problem with him. I have a personal problem with anyone asking the same damned question 10 times in a row, and that's just this forum. Sheesh geta grip. Alcohol, acetone, or tolulene in a bottle. woo-hoo. You can buy large quantities of any of that stuff for probably cheaper.

I still say SC400 > SC300. They're faster, just as economical, better brakes, suspension, supports, engine & trim levels. And if you can afford to turbo a 2jz-ge, you can afford to turbo a 1uz-fe and have a 25% larger powerband & an engine with all the critical parts handling 25% less stress to make the same peak power figures. :) tehehehe - I'm just honest! lol

LMAO it won't void the warranty. It has a great big TOYOTA imprint on the stamped code on the Lexus rack. If you're DIY'ing then give the reman Lexus rack a shot. If it's bad you can always take it back.

3.0L v6 TRD supercharger can be made to fit, but it's bad to blow pistons, or crack ringlands over the long haul. Geo no need for another thread, you could have posted in one of the others. tehehehe

The vehicle uses atleast 3 triggering sensors (two crush zone sensors, and one decelleration sensor), and it has multiple self-diagnostic algorithims for all. Your airbag didn't fail to deploy, you simply didn't meet any criteria for needing it. Trust me... It's much preffered that way as opposed to them simply having a decelleration meter and an algrothim saying X g-force in decelleration at >/= 15mph & pop the bag. Plus airbags are cheap unlike 15-20 years ago. $250-500 each to replace for the main 2 airbags in any ES. No big deal.

Well I don't know. A rack is something I probably wouldn't do reman because they have a bad reputation on other vehicles. (along with reman powersteering pumps). You could maybe save some money on a Camry v6 wagon steering rack, but they use a different ratio so the car will handle alittle different. I'd personally just buy the new, correct rack & be done with it. And honestly I am the first person to tell you to go back Camry parts if you can do it & it's cheaper. Racks are cheap but labor can run hella bad on them. Hope you can DIY, or find a really good shop rate.

AFA ABS. Best invention ever. Hit the brake to the floor, don't let off it until you're done decellerating. The computer will sort it out for you much faster than you can. (Proven in F1, and SCCA racing. LoL! ABS has been borderline of being banned in SCCA racing because drivers become extremely confident in their ability to go sailing very deep into a corner & having the computer sort it out. Bawahahahahahahahaha) At any rate... ABS. Good thing to have. It has a giganticly strong pump on the brake lines. Makes tons of noise, you feel the pedal do alittle vibrating as it releases the brakes on any offending wheels, but otherwise the car stays in a straight line (or doesn't just contontrollably slide out of control if you're cornering). It's alot of huss & fuss, but the end result is that braking near / past the edge of normal human control becomes a major non-event.

Your brakes are perfectly normal. Welcome to progressive brakes. It gives every moron driver on the planet the amazing ability to come to a complete stop without jering occupants around like crazy. The brake pedal is SPEED (NOT EFFORT) sensative. If you push the pedal quickly, it will have a maximum effort (more traditional sporty) brake pedal feel. Otherwise it simply has an exponentially increasing amount of brake caliper extension the farther you push the pedal. Giving a much finer control to brake application. The pedal will travel the same distance in either case. Regardless of how you push the pedal, the car still has class equalling/leading braking ability, your brakes are normal. This is how your Toyota passanger car brakes will be, there is no big adjustment that will discontinue this feel entirely. It can be adjusted to a degree, but you'll honestly need to get use to this. Personally... It takes afew days to get use to, but after that you'll never want harsh brakes again unless you're driving a Miata. It's no different than anyone on Earth flying a twitchy !Removed! R/C aircraft. You use 50-75% exponential on the controls so that you have a very fine control around the centers instead of moving the stick 20% from center & having 70% of your control already effectively thrown. Same for brakes... Exponential. Gotta love it. I'm not being an !Removed!, I'm just being blunt & completely honest. If you don't like it... You need to buy a non-Toyota, because this is how ALL of their passanger cars are. Get use to it, or get out is pretty much how it goes.

Backwards with fuel ratings. More gas combusts outside the chamber with higher octane. Which is why emessions goes to hell when you run it. Reset your fuel trims & give it two tanks. It may come in line. It takes relatively along time of running for long term fuel trims to catch up. I know what you're talking about, and I'm telling you no... YOU DO NOT HAVE A HIGHLY STRESSED ENGINE WITH A TURBO, SUPERCHARGER, NITROUS OXIDE, OR HIGH COMPRESSION PISTONS WITH AGGRESSIVE CAMSHAFT PROFILS. YOU CAN NOT MAKE USE OF ANY MORE OCTANE THAN YOU CAN STAND, AND "OCTANE IN A CAN" DOES ALMOST NOTHING TO THE OCTANE, ALONG WITH BEING GENERALLY MORE EXPENCIVE THAN BUYING THE CORRECT OCTANE TO BEGIN WITH.

MRB used the 4 speed transmission run about $350-500 depending on the condition. $2000 for a transmission? Jesus Christ for $2000 you could have a shop convert it to a manual. Prolly $1000-1200 to change the transmission for a used one with labor. Depends on the labor really. If you haven't yet. Change the transmission fluid twice & see if it's better. Walmart + $10 = 2 gallons of transmission fluid (two changes). Drain the pan, refill, drive around the block. (or if it wont drive let it idle 5m) Drain the pan again, refill & drive it around the block. If it still won't drive let it idle 5m on a level surface & with the engine running, check the fluid level on the dip-stick. It should read to the full, HOT mark.

Son... Seriously what the *BLEEP* is your problem with octane...

LoL sc300's are not quick by any means. I digress. Stock is already a CAI you're not going to gain much horsepower wise on the world's most awesomest intake over stock. It's just a sound mod, just like the entire cat-back exhaust... You can't find anything because you either need to mke it custom, or start looking at Camry parts. Your ES 300 = a Toyota Camry with different brakes, body, and trim packages.

LoL that's why i love playing with Toyota's. "only 160,000 miles on it". lmao. Ah, I'd stay by checking the steering wheel set nut. I forget what years it was, but that generation they let some ES/Windom/Camry's out with loose nuts. Gives the steering wheel alot of play, but doesn't cause vibrations, etc like say a bad tie-rod would. Beyond that I would go looking at loose tie rods, intermediate shaft, or steering gear. The rack could be shot. Maybe wheel bearings... But I'd start with making sure the lock nut is secure lol!

Camry manual. Chilton's isn't as good IMO.

There is absolutely no differance in which is faster until the OEM computer would want to shift into overdrive, which depending on the year, for th 4 speeds it can range from 110-115mph. None of your cars can run the 1/4m in over 85mph at best, so it makes absolutely no differance, unless it'sa mile long flat out race.

No... If anything if you ever put real 104octane gas in there you'd probably loose 50 miles a tank & drop 10+ horsepower across the board. and those cans of octane booster don't do very much at all. If you want to try it go run your tank down low. Go to a gas station by an 1/8m 1/4m or drag strip, or a race track of any kind & buy some damned 105-115 octane UNLEADED racing fuel. Or fill your tank up with E85 ethanol which is 115octane. Your mileage and power output will both be horrible either way.

dude what's your deal with octane? IT DOES NOT MAKE MORE POWER. You are not running a 200 horsepower shot of n2o, or an extra 20lb/m o airflow via a turbo. You don't need any more octane than you can already buy at your pumps. in fact, your best bet for peak power & economy is probably 89-90 octane instead of the rated 91.

installing water / ethyl alcohol injection

no problem at all man.

x2

the higher the octane, the lower the energy content, and longer combustion takes place. you are not knock limited, running high octane than required reduces your mileage, power, money, and increases emssions. you could proably reset your ECU and run perfectly peachy with the best power on 89/90 mid grade (92-93 RON)

YZ