Toysrme

that's the biggest load of bull*BLEEP* of all time. what dumb son of a !Removed! actually propigates that *BLEEP*?

aftermarket? I've never heard a 92-94 chirp. ever.

inside is a diaphram with spring behind it. the state of intake manifold pressure moves the diaphram around to keep it 37-41.5psi above manifold pressure.

My list 1) Aeroturbine 2) Borla (their low end lines are the OEM of porsche, and unmarked TRD mufflers btw...) 3) probably magnaflow personally. i've heard a boatload of mangaflows, and afew tanabe's... they're identical minus the prettyness & cost to me in real life. its not a bad thing, just sayin lol

THEY ARE STICKIED IN A THREAD ABOUT THEM. btw stop typing like a

Replace the regulator, the diaphram is busted if it's sucking fuel in the vacuum line.

It makes more since than turbo'ing an IS or SC... Of which *technically* speaking... SC's are bloated pigs while IS's are no faster than an ES, worse trimmed, fewer parts avalibility & more expencive parts. Along with having a lanky i6 that revs so slow it can bearly get out of it's own way from a dig. They can not make any more power than an ES without a built engine, and/or drivetrain. And when either is done. Until you're talking about breaking three digit horsepower , the FWD platform will rev much faster, incurre less of a drivetrain loss, and hook much better. givemeyourwife - any work must be custom done. I did a '94 camry v6 turbo project two months ago for a guy (same as your car, but the 95-96's dropped coil on plug ignition for wasted spark) The long term limits when tuned well & driven correctly are around 320bhp on the A/T, and 350-375bhp on the engine. Otherwise, when built properly with deep pocket books the upper limit of what you can make is not currently known. SO unless you wanna go dropping 25 grand in a drivetrain and chassie in a quest for 2000bhp... Just leave it as "strong enough".

ok. it should have never been put in with a crack to begin with. ? that's just being wierd.

you own a 1993 toyota camry with better trim on it. you can use a 92-93 camry/ES/windom v6. the cost of them is identical as they both come from the toyota parts chain. (just under 2 grand) if replacing i would use a japanese import to replace it for $500-700. what do you mean by crack???

No, they stop where they do because there isn't space for them to go lower... Look and see for yourself lol!

Call them up & say you think the gas is leaking out & see if they'll do it again. Another mechanic told me when I was about to get some put on that even the third tier high end monroe struts are inferior to the OEM's. Commonly the first or second tier are used to replace the OEM kyb's so... :\ I skipped it & just kept my old blown struts. hah

more importantly; who's the chick with the !Removed! in your avatar? dont get the wrong impression the stuff isn't super critical, but now you know why they put it there ;) the home depot suggestion is very good.

5*114.3 38mm offset = stock all you need to know :) you can find plenty of threads with wheels on ES / Windoms. ill leave that to you to do. ES = Camry trimmed to the nth degree. everyone on earth has rims but i. i maintain the stock rims are lighter and transition better because they're not as wide & heavy. which is basically bull*BLEEP* for after 5 years wheels are still nowhere near the top of my todolist. bawahahahahahahahahahahahaha here's a sticky at toyotanation's camry forum discussing wheel offsets with lots of pictures. 2000 ES 300 = 4th generation Camry platform (1997-2001)

generic. its brighter and cheaper.

yes. otherwise the fan sucks air from everywhere but through the radiator. also important (tho rarely done on OEM cars with overly large radiators) is sealing the radiator to the grill / air dam radiator ducts, ensuring all the airflow passes through the radiator. we dont have that, but i felt like typing at 3am

noone knows, it's a half generation gap so they styling is different. try it & see is all anyone can tell you. youd be the first to try I know of.

btw dont try it with the manifold attached if you dont have a very high quality socket extensions, and 5/8" plug socket. they are so ungodly terrible for people to put on the plug too tight & not be gental. you unscrew the plug & the GD extension lets go of the socket. just trust me on that, it's a pain in the !Removed! with the front bank, the rear bank would ruin your day trying to fish out lol (another reason to take the manifold off noone thinks about)

*in general* 450rpm cranking a toy v6 1800-2000rpm initial startup throttle blip to raise oil pressure 1200-1500rpm cold idle 750rpm warm idle no powersteering no fan, no A/C on an automatic transmission 800-1200rpm with the above active. 800-1200rpm with the brakes applied depending on the load created by the vacuum assist.

exactly. all the OEM's use slighting different language but basically the same themes. in toyota's case, everything is a tsib (technical service information bulletin) keyword being information. from there extended warranty's, recalls, and special service campains. and the confusing thing is to some extint they all overlap ;) not half, but a good portion of the tsib's i've ever had to read deal with fixing minor problems that happen down the road in ownership, or maintenance related issues. how to do something better, or what parts have superceeded old parts. the rest are generally, "hey we engineered it 99% perfect so not *everybody* will see the problem, but here's a minor issue that might crop up & how we think you can solve them." case in point, the A/C expansion valves on the older ones. if you keep them clear of debris they probably won't need replacing after 5-10 years of ownership :D i guess my point was trying to explain that just because any auto maker releases a bulletin saying there's a problem, doesn't mean it's a free fix. even under warranty. one of our local chevy / used car dealers is notorious for trying to pull crap between recalls & bulletins.

you don't have to take the manifold off, however you should. as a grossload of maintenance can be done with the intake manifold off. change PCV valves, check for vacuum leaks, clean both intake manifold runners & the throttlebody of buildup. you can do alittle porting if you want :D check/replace the rear valve cover gasket for leaks. just all kinds of good stuff to be done! Tyler121 dang man! shouldn't take that long at all man. you need proper tools, lol. when i went and turbo'd the 94 camry in mississippi last month the kid that owned the car took the IM off, changed his own plugs, took his fuel rail off & change the injectors (first time doing any kind of car wrenching) by himself with basically a haynes manual inside of an hour whilest i did other things. and your engine has 1/2 the vacuum lines his has to keep striaght hehehe. i think half the problem people have is being too dainty with the parts. take them off & put them back on. you don't have to treat them like they're delicate. you wouldn't want to drop the manifold on concrete, or destroy an ignition coil, but it's not like stepping on eggs hehehehe

well good for you. if the suspension is clunking it's probably sway bar bushings. start there & move on to end-links, strut mounts+struts+springs later on. the dog bone mount on the engine is probably about time to get replaced too. might wanna pick one of those up...

well to begin with you're grossly incorrect by thinking that any OEM's version of a TSIB has anything to do with any issue being, or not being a repair claims bulletin item in the first place. it's not. they're nothing more than notations to the dealers & anyone else they conern. ther eis a big differance in an information bulletin, and a recall. recall = OEM will fix & split the bill. and yes, typically toyota does have most of the dealers do most bulletin work under warranty for free, but that's besides the point. they could easily make you pay for it if it's not a recall. forget paying for the half-assed stuff get the real tsib's in pdf format. techinfo.toyota.com lexus/toyota dealers can only tell you of maintenance done at a lexus/toyota dealers, and not all of those will link into the corrisponding toyota VS lexus networks. Same thing, different name, but you'd most likely have to ask a toyota dealer, and a lexus dealer. if the brakes pulse then the rotors are warped. replace the pads, rotors & change the brake fluid. since you're out of warranty, why don't you call them and ask? all they have to do is convince the corperate office to foot the labor, the parts, or both. you can always call the corperate office if a dealer can't. and you can always see if they won't pay the labor, or the parts if they wont pay both. toyota / lexus coperate are pretty know for letting people slide with stuff. i know someone within the last 6 motnhs that had another free set of head gaskets changes on the infamous 3.0L 3vz-e 4runner head gaskets at over 270,000m. he just called corp up & talked them into doing it over a week or so. (the original extended warranty was 10 years 100,000 miles. meaning it had expired no LESS than four-years ago). it's a crap shoot, but the odds are alot better than with any other OEM i know of.

are you kidding me? what do you think it is? atleast read a manual. which you have no excuse for not having (dont wanna hear it) as they are provided 1 free every 3 months by registering at lexus.com. you can also download them at techinfo.toyota.com among other places.

why don't you check the code and find out.... since you did hub work i would bet you knocked a wheel speed sensor out of alignment, or broke one of their cables.