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MICKLEX

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  • Lexus Model
    IS 250

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  1. RX in NC, The correct and complete way to clean a throttle body is to remove it from the engine so you can clean it thoroughly. I just cleaned my 2005 RX330's throttle body last Friday. 2004 and 2005 RX330's have the same throttle body. There's a round gasket with "wire screen" inside that I replaced, although, I think the old one is still reusable. This is the mounting gasket between the throttle body and where it is mounted. There are four mounting bolts that you need to remove to get the throttle body out. As soon as you unbolt the throttle body from where it is mounted, you will expose the gasket I'm talking about. I haven't seen this kind of gasket before because of the wire mesh in the middle. The car idles smoother after cleaning. It's back to normal at 750 RPM from almost 500 RPM before cleaning.
  2. Has anybody cleaned the Throttle Body/Idle Air Control Valve on RX330? I have done it on RX300 which has a different throttle body/IACV from RX330, following GoldenStateSilverSport's procedure, by removing the right throttle body from the engine and thoroughly cleaned it from too much carbon build up. The car is running great now. But RX330 has a different type of Throttle Body/IACV and if anyone has done it, perhaps he could share some tips and pictures to save time and avoid unnecessary steps, even though the fundamental is the same. Thank you
  3. Hi blk on blk, What I'm talking about here is a pressure bleeder made by Motive. It pushes the pressurized break fluid from the master cylinder reservoir out to the bleeder valve. It is different from a vacuum bleeder which sucks the fluid from the bleeder valve. Although a vast majority of users approve of it, I could not help not ignoring entirely the following article from StopTech because it is very plausible: Pressure bleeding do's and don'ts Pressure bleeding on its own is not necessarily a bad thing, but there are several steps one must take to ensure that the bleed event will result in an air-free brake system. When we talk about pressure bleeding, we are referring to the process in which we pour our brake fluid into a pressure vessel, hook up a pressure source, and run the now pressurized fluid directly into the master cylinder reservoir. One by one the caliper bleeder screws are opened to allow the pressurized fluid to flow through the system until all of the old fluid has been purged. Simple, right? Well yes, but beware of imitations – not all pressure bleeders are created equal. The professional units (the type you can consider using) separate the pressurized brake fluid from the pressure source (air) using a flexible rubber diaphragm. In this fashion, the pressurized air is kept from forcing its way into the fluid. As we all know, air and fluid should be kept as far apart as possible. This brings us to the imitations. There seem to be a rash of products available lately that claim to be pressure brake bleeders at a fraction of the cost of the professional units. Like most things that sound too good to be true, well, it’s exactly that. Like the professional units, these imitations contain a pressure vessel into which new brake fluid is poured. However, in order to pressurize the fluid, an integral pump handle is cycled to build the pressure inside the vessel without any measures taken to separate the pressurized air from the fluid. For those of you who have ever bought a $19.95 do-it-yourself potted plant and bug sprayer from Home Depot you get the idea. Of course, having pressurized air in contact with the brake fluid will certainly force the fluid through the system just as effectively as the high-zoot professional unit, but as an added bonus we are stuffing air into the brake fluid at the same time. Talk about an unwanted surprise! While it may not be visible to the naked eye (air can actually entrain itself in the fluid as to be visually undetectable) it’s there right along with all of the nasty moisture trapped inside of it. This of course begs the question: if you are stuffing air and water contaminated fluid into your brake system, why even bother bleeding it in the first place? Naturally there will be those who argue that the amount of air in question is not important enough to worry about, but think about this for a moment: nearly every automotive manufacturer stores their bulk brake fluid in large containers which are subjected to a constant VACUUM. Talk about an expensive process! If just storing your fluid under regular atmospheric conditions isn’t good enough to keep air and water out, just imagine what shoving 30psi worth of compressed air on top of it is doing. The professional units can cost hundreds of dollars, and for good reason; unfortunately the cost keeps them beyond the reach of most of us normal folks. Your best bet is probably to get back in the driver’s seat and begin stroking the pedal with your foot again, but ultimately the choice is yours.
  4. Has anybody used this pressure bleeder? If so, what do you think of it as a brake bleeding tool? I've read about 95% success rate of this one man bleeder from users, how easy it is to use and how effective it is in bleeding/flushing the brake fluid, not mentioning its affordable price. At the same token it also has critics who insist that it allows air to get into the brake lines because the unit does not have a diaphragm that separates the air from fluid inside the bleeder's holding tank. Unlike the professional pressure bleeders which the cost is out of reach of ordinary people like us, Motive allows the compressed air that pushes the fluid into the car's fluid reservoir and out to the bleeder valves on the caliper, to mingle with the fluid, thus allowing air into the system. This is my main concern. But as I have read, the vast majority of people who have used this product are very satisfied with its performance with no complaints and have a very high success rate. It makes me wonder if the 10 to 15 PSI of air that you use to pressurize the brake line is minimal to negatively affect the brake fluid. Any comment on this?
  5. Before I started using the vacuum pump to do one man bleeds I always (or whoever was helping me) pushed the pedal to the floor (not hard, but to the floor) and have never had a problem as a result. That is only my experience though and am not questioning the practice of limiting the travel. I personally would prefer a pressure bleeder and have thought of building one since they have always been too expensive for casual use. I recently saw one (I believe Harbor Freight) that was fairly reasonable but I don't do enough bleeds to justify even that so I'll stick with my trusty vacuum system. Code 58, Thanks for your input. I went ahead and flushed/bled my brakes manually using that 1' x 4' piece of wood spacer underneath the brake pedal. Everything went successfully and my brakes are now firmer. I would very much wanted to have a one man pressure bleeder, like Phoenix Injector or Motive Power Bleeder, but they are so expensive, especially the Phoenix Injector. Also I've read people complaining about difficulty getting a good seal between the car's brake fluid reservoir and the bleeder. And I think it's not worth paying so much for a tool that you will use only once in two years even if you own 2 or 3 cars. Just my opinion. Thank you again.
  6. Has anybody done manual brake bleeding on RX 330 successfully? Do I still have to put 1" x 4" piece of wood underneath the brake pedal to not let the pedal touch the floor when my assistant hold it down when I open the bleeder valve to avoid damaging the master cylinder? I have read a lot of articles about the need of putting the piece of wood, but some consider this practice unnecessary. Any information will be appreciated. Thanks.
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