92blackSC400

P/S pump noises are typically caused by two things. 1. Air in the system caused by low fluid level or other reason 2. Pump is working to hard due to: some degree of blockage in the system or excessive worn hard parts such as pump or rack&pinion. Any leaks? Check the rack specifically near the black boots where the tie rods exit the rack. This area is most prone to leakage as these seals (under the boot) are under heavy use (turning the car) and pressure (pump). Any loss of steering performance aside from it being worse when cold i.e. hard to turn at any other times? Mileage?

You're correct, something is cooling down. Most likely the C/converters as they are the hottest item on the vehicle. They also have thin quage heat shields attached for obvious reasons. As the thinner heat shield cools from ambient conditions and lack of additional recuring heat from the running engine, contraction takes place - audiable tones will be heard during the process. This can also happen to the mufflers. This is not unique to Lexus vehicle, all vehicles do this to some degree. I wouldn't worry.

Is this happening with the A/C on? If so, repeat with A/C off. I had a similar condition with my 156k, but the idle was about 1100 when braking with the A/C on. I cleaned the throttle body assembly and the problem went away.

Only had the car a few weeks, but so far so good. Any one ever do the real HID conversion? I see them selling for about $400.

First let me say what a great site we have here. While this is my first real post, I've be visiting for sometime now and all the information helped me decide my recent purchase: 1992 SC400, with alot of miles (156K) but recent t-elt, W/P. I changed the trans fluid right away and replaced all brake pads and rotors. Pleased to see the ps pump was dry, a/c and radio LCD functional and leather less worn than others seen with less mileage. Only real things that are driving me crazy: 1. CD changer skips when driven over painted lines on the road but not over speed bumps. Skips all the time at speeds over 50MPH. 2. When putting trans into drive from neutral, the engagement is fairly aggresive. When put into drive directly from reverse VERY smooth engagement, back to neutral, allow idle to settle, back to drive- aggressive again. Neutral to reverse is smooth. Weird. Trans mount is tight and good (looks fairly new) as are the rubber dirveshaft couplers. Visual inspection of the D/Shaft center support is hard to due to the C/Converter but very little dirve shaft movement takes place when muscleing the D/shaft. I suspect an accumulator spring in the tran or other spring/valve in the valve body itself. Anybody have this problem with their trans? Anybody ever re-man their 12 disc cs changer? I enjoy reading all your posts and look forward to adding my 2 cents when possible. Andy Los Angeles

I've used the posted remedy to clear up my SC headlights. They were really yellow but not alot of moisture--in fact none in one of thelights. I simply wet sanded with 2000 grit (use lots of water, I used the hose itself)sourced from my local automotive paint supplier. I did this with the lights on the car but was careful sanding near the edges. Once dried, I was a little freaked by the appearance but after using 3M plastic polish and buffer wheel i was amazed at the outcome. 90% better. I've managed to aquire 2 used SC headlights that are in good shape overall that I'll attempt to take apart and clean inside as well. Seemed like a lot of work to remove the headlights to correct the last 10%. It would appear that other with heavy water issues may decide otherwise. Andy