rbm

I have a 06 at 175000 miles. I started writing and couldn't stop! LOL! Maybe this may be useful to you, no worries if not. It may be something very easy to replace or fix yourself. I stopped going to the mechanic due to their shabby work. I've done a lot of work myself but your issue is something I would first get on YouTube and see if you can research it there or any other searches you can think of. However, if it's not on the internet because it's not very common, then I would suggest you go to a Lexus dealer to let them diagnose it and then you have a direct way to fix and correct the problem. Believe me, its worth going to them to find the problem because it might just be a relay switch or circuit breaker. Your dad gave you a great vehicle. If you are under 100k, then invest in repairing everything you can! I am expecting to keep mine till 250k or 300k miles. I might even buy a rebuilt engine at that point. This may be something you should think about if you plan on keeping it. I would immediately change the heater 'T's because the plastic breaks down, and it will do the same to you while on the road. There's two of them on the top center back connected to hoses with clamps. They send the radiator coolent to the back. It's a very easy job, and I would buy metal ones on eBay. It's one of two cheap products Lexus did to this SUV! The other is a plastic radiator spout the radiator cap locks on to, and it's definitely something to keep an eye on. I would repack the front bearings if close to 30, 60, 90k, etc. Because that's their intervals. It’s a long job at first due to learning. There are plenty of videos out there to DYI. But at least, once you have done, you're set for the next 30k. Make sure your CV's are still sealed and not leaking. If they are DO NOT buy aftermarket. Lexus has invested in these nothing compares to them. Therefore, before they go bad and are confirmed to leak, buy a new boot kit from Toyota (Landcruiser) or Lexus and rebuild them yourself! The kits cost about $40, and it comes with boots clamps specific to each boot and the grease needed! You'll need a special tool to clamp them. Don't use a universal clamp. Get the tool! Re grease the shaft at all the grease fittings. The transmission fluid is sealed, but your warranty is over, so at 100k, check YouTube and change it! It's easy once you learn it. Flush ACH, brake, differential, transfer box, and power steering fluids. It's all on YouTube, and it's easy. Your speakers are probably busted from the foam discergrating. You can rebuild them all with a speaker kit cheaply. Don't worry about rotating your tires and rebalancing them only when your steering shakes. It sounds like a lot, but you can group them and spread your hobbie over the next couple of months. Then you are set! I'm from NOLA but live in Houston, so welcome to the greatest SUV ever made. If you need some suggestions, just place @sbcglobal.net behind my initials to email me. As for having collision or comp insurance, the insurance companings will total it for a scratch. Meaning if its worth 5k that what you will get minus the deductible. Its not worth in to me. You may want to pass on it. But get your liability and buy uninsured as well. When they hit you, your insurance fixes it. If you are not inclined to work on the car, then you may want to hire a mobile mechanic from Craigslist. They have better pricing on labor! I hope this helps! Take what you want and leave the rest!

I dont know anything about B&B. Instead of the Toyota AHC fluid, I tried a different product for a serious drop in price. I brought a gallon of AreoShell, and I got it off of Amazon. Check out the pic. Because I left the car with a bleeding port open for a long break, the car dropped almost to the tires. Meaning, I was able to get more bad fluid out. When I refilled, it almost took the whole gallon. In fact, you can see I placed the rest of the can of AreoShell into another container sitting behind the original can. It's red, and after a month, it's still clear red. I plan to keep an eye on it every time I perform maintenance on my 2006 LX470. If anything happens, I will update the results if something bad takes place. I have that magic carpet ride once again! Ricky

I am aware the orginal post is old but hey what I write still applies for the right viewers! I brought two rear Acculators from Ebay they are different in size than the front ones, and they are not OEM, and I paid $210 for them both. They are on sale now for the front at $99 per. I followed several AHC DYI YouTube videos and gave it a try. Today it would take an hour but the first time I took my time. Good thing cause I learned something no one spoke of. After I bled each accumulater as well as the solenoid, I left the car for a long break. Well, the car really came down almost to the tires. When I refilled the AHC fluid, it really took almost a gallon of fluid. This told me I did a complete fluid change. It's been one month, and the fluid is still completely clear! As for the fluid, I had read a post somewhere to use airplane hydraulic fluid instead of the Toyota for a serious drop in price. I brought a gallon of AreoShell, and I got it off of Amazon. Check out the pic. It's red and still clear red. I plan to keep an eye on it every time I perform maintenance on my 2006 LX470. If anything happens, I will update the results if something bad takes place. As for the accumulators. I took off all of them to test the diaphragms. The idea came from one of the videos. When they are off and emptied, take a straw or an uncut pencil and drop it in the hole of the Acculators. Then grab the pencil/straw where the accumulator hole begins and pull out the pencil/straw, and if it's about two inches in depth, the diaphragm is still good. If the depth is six or more inches, the diaphragm is busted inside. My front was surprisingly fine so I placed them back on. However, both of my rear Acculators were bad, and therefore I ended up changing them. It was a suprised to me because when I went over a speed bump, the front bounced a lot more than the rear. Well, if you can screw off and on a bottle cap, then this job will save you a ton of money if you just get over the acronym for fear. False Evidence Appearing Real, you'll be so grateful you did! Heck, I just borrowed a 36-inch wrench from O'Reilly's, so I don't have to pay and store it. One last tip after I finished the job, I didn't pay any attention to the irregularities that took place the first two days. I just let the computer figure it out on its own, and after a couple of days, it did just that. Then I measured the front and rear wheel heights, and they were perfect. The fluid level at this point, was way over the max line. I just took enough fluid to be within the max line and then I kept an eye on it, and it has been perfect ever since. In the pic you can see behind the can of AreoShell the rest of the gallon I had to use. Later, I filled that back bottle about an inch higher to reduce the level below the max line. There wasn't any contamination either. The bouncing is completely gone and I now have that magic carpet ride once again at 170k miles. I hope this helps! Ricky

I just purchased Michelin LTX M/S 2 for three important issues for me. Noise levels weather and warranttee. Yes price is important however just like buying the LX b/c its the best and quality assures me longevity then so I pay upfront for the tires. They are so quiet I don't hear them. I paid $915.00 after creating a bid war with different vendors and ended up at NTB for the balance, rotation, alignment and tire pressure stems included. Off road is not important to me in the least. 90k miles warrantte is the best but to get them I had to go from 275/60/18 to 275/65/18. I refused to buy the HP products the cost is a joke. So I am a half inch taller(Can't tell) and it will take 18 or so inches more to stop. Oh well.

Yes we have one its call Clear Choice Auto Shop 6541 Southwest Freeway Houston, Texas 77074, Steve Ivey (713) 695-3987 tell Him Ricky sent you!