HRP

"I know nothing about Lexus cars, I've been a consumer of products from the other side of the pond." In 2002, I researched the LS430 completely over at least 6 months before buying ours as we drive cars until they become unreliable. The reliability is unrivaled except by the Camry and Avalon. Our choice came down to the Avalon and the Lexus LS430. Bought the LS because of the V-8 and a few other amenities. Other than a cd getting stuck in the changer, no problems over 7+ years and 85k. Since I started driving in 1956, have had a multiplicity of cars including various GM, Chrysler, Ford, Daimlier-Benz, VW, Honda, etc. Our family (3 boys, ages 31-46) are all car fanatics. Their chief complaints about the LS430 are it is boring (quiet, smooth, repair free, etc) so they have nothing to suggest I do to it other than keep it serviced regularly, well detailed , and check the tire pressure frequently (I'm a obcessive-compulsive detailing fanatic). Dealer maintainance is expensive!!! The 90k servicing (timing belt, etc) is around $1700 ($1000k at a Toyota dealer certified to service Lexus). Suggest you look at the different discussion groups (here, Edmunds, the boards of other choices under your consideration, etc) and compare the comments and reported problems with the other luxury choices you have under consideration. Check their discussion boards. Also the relative re-sale values. Best of luck in choosing your next ride! Please let us know your final decision, and why!

Suggest you go here as one source for sealant reviews: http://www.autopia.org/reviews/censura.php...p;category_id=2 I'm a Zaino Zealot and many would concur with me that Zaino's sealants (www.Zainostore.com) are probably the most durable of the lot, but differences of opinion are what makes horse races. That's why there is a large selection of sealants available. Zaino's or anyone else's AIO (All In One) is a good start for a quick and easy introduction to sealant application and use. Unfortunately, you can't run over to the nearest Wal-mart and buy Zaino or several other brands, you have to order them, pay shipping, and wait. Knowledge from research will allow you to by a good product locally; Mequiar's products for example. Probably the most important point in applying any well recommended sealant and getting the best durability is the preparation of the finish. And we're talking really clean; no residue from any previous products. The surface should feel smooth to your fingertips inside a plastic sandwich bag. That's the hardest part of any sealant application: preparation! If you've already got swirl marks, consider a sealant that at least says it will hide them. Almost all sealant applications are incredibly quick and very easy, but read the directions before you buy one. The biggest problem is applying far too much, especially on a light colored car. On a dark car it is easier since all you want is a haze. Most wipe off even easier. For best results and a deeper and more lasting shine, apply 2 or 3 coats. And one suggestion is to apply the sealant in a straight line: fore and aft on hood, top, and trunk and vertically on the sides which avoids creating swirls which you can get by applying it in a rotating fashion. You can apply it easily with a "random orbital buffer", but it takes me longer to get the buffer out and set it up than it does to apply a coat of sealant to an LS430. And remember, you can top a sealant with wax, but not vice versa. Hope this helps. Don't forget the use of a QD (quick detailing) spray occasionally to keep it looking nick Good luck.

As has been pointed our herre and on other forums, the current economic situation has put most private sellers behind the times on used car prices. Both the 400 and 430 LS are excellent cars, you'll just have to drive them and see which you prefer. I'd try edmunds.com and reed their reviews and also use their used car (auto trader) as a start to see what's out there and get an idea of the prices within the area from which you wish to look. Armed with the knowledge you get from research, you can decide what you want and can afford. But don't be in a hurry and be ready to walk away if you get bad vibes anywhere.

Spent $90 at an Autozone 1/2 mile from my house for a new one. Paid for it with discount points 7 yr warranty; full replacement if it fails within 2 yrs....and they installed it!!

Y'all, I just received this notification through the Dixie District Barbershop. Yahoo is tracking you if you belong to ANY Yahoo Group(s). Here's how to opt out. Harmmmmoniously, !Removed! DIX-Dist-Members] Yahoo is Tracking You if you belong to ANY Yahoo groups! Opt-Out How-to‏ From: dix-dist-members@yahoogroups.com on behalf of Randy (randytenor@aol.com) Sent: Wed 1/07/09 9:10 PM To: DIX-Dist-Members@yahoogroups.com This may have been addressed before, but in case it hasn't, or you missed it, this might be something we all will want to know about. This is not Dixie District News but relevant to all who belong to the group site. -------- Original Message -------- HEADS UP Yahoo users. Yahoo is Tracking Group Members! If you belong to ANY Yahoo Groups - be aware that Yahoo is now using "Web Beacons" to track every Yahoo Group user. It's similar to cookies, but allows Yahoo to record every website and every group you visit, even when you're not connected to Yahoo. Look at their updated privacy statement at http://info.yahoo.com/privacy/us/yahoo/details.html (Click on this link -- or copy and paste into your browser) About half-way down the page, in the section on cookies, you will see a link that says WEB BEACONS. Click on the phrase "Web Beacons." On the page that opens, on the left find a box entitled "Opt-Out.". In that section find "opt-out of interest-matched advertising" link that will let you "opt-out" of their snooping. Click it and then click the opt-out button on the next page. Note that Yahoo's invasion of your privacy - and your ability to opt-out of it - is not user-specific. It is MACHINE specific. That means you will have to opt-out on every computer (and browser) you use. Please forward this to your other groups. You might complain, too, but I'm not sure if anyone is listening. I remember when they signed all users up to get spam and we had to opt out of that a few years ago. Please send this to anyone or any group you would like. Randy Dills group member BHS Arrangement Notation Specialist NCHB and Affiliated Brigades Notation Editor Dixie District Officer - CSR Charlotte, NC Chapter Brigade Quartet - Tenor

1) The "teflon" is generally a gimmick especially used to increase the dealere "prep" charges on new cars. 2) Most "waxes do not last more than a few weeks, especially in hot and dry areas of the country. 3) True sealants when applied properly will last a lot longer. Suggest you research the different sealants. One of the better sites here on care care and also autopia.org. Here is the autopia product review site: http://www.autopia.org/reviews/censura.php...p;category_id=2 Autopia also is a very good forum to ask your question. Their members include professional detailers, enthusiasts, and newbies. Good luck HRP

While you really shouldn't go wrong with either the 2001 or 2002 LS430, my general rule is to never purchase the 1st year model of anything (have always been burned). The hidden problems, if any, will surface eventually. We have a 2002 with 84k which has been essentially trouble free. But bought the basic model. Only extras are the heated seats and sunroof. We also drive our vehicles until the become unreliable. I'm hoping for at least another 7 years on my LS430.

Just a comment: In the mid 1950's one of my friends gave me some older (1940's) Popular Science, Popular Mechanics, and Mechanic's Illustrated magazines (all now long gone). I recall reading an article that someone had added an extra smaller fuel tank to his car which he filled with the higher octane gasoline (Hi-Test). The larger one he filled with"regular". He used the higher octane for starting and driving the car around town. He switched (manually) to the regular tank for his highway driving. His reason was that since his engine was not usually subjected to increased acceleration on the highway and at around 45 - 60 mph he saw no need to use the higher octane and noticed no difference in milage with the cheaper lower octane fuel. Of course this was in the days of 3 on the tree, overdrive, oil bath air cleaners, mostly in-line 6's and 8's, and 45-55 mph highway speed limits. With today's technology and $4 plus higher octane fuel, I wonder if that concept would be of value today. Sure wish I'd kept those old magazines.

In for 80k servicing today. Tech is looking into problem, but suggested that I not adjust the mirrors so far out laterally. I've been setting them at full lateral extension. Tried moving them in slightly and at least the clicking stopped. Will wait a few days to see if they remain in proper adjustment. And will repost again. Seems absurd for me to have to adjust mirrors at the whim of the car; it should adjust to my whims, not its.

2002 LS430 bought new and still under extended warranty (80k). Problem: I use the "fold in" option whenever I park the car. When I restart the mirrors do not remain in the same adjustment. This is also present when someone else has been driving it and reset the memory. Sequence, press memory adjustment; while the seat adjusts, the mirrors click. Then I insert key and as I'm starting the car, the mirrors fold out, but are not in proper adjustment. usually are angled too high and too close in, so I have to adjust them downward and out. Dealer has replaced the driver's outside mirror with no real change. Makes no difference where the mirror set button is on left, center, or right. Or which seat memory setting is used. It has been a problem for at least the past 4 or five years. Has anyone noticed this problem and/or found a solution besides resetting the mirrors? Thanks, !Removed!

Unfortunately, the car manufacturers use the tire pressure to assist in a softer ride. I run my 2002 LS430, 1991 Buick Reatta, and my 1977 Excalibur at 38 lbs. All weight well over 3700 lbs, and I like the firmer ride and better handling. The most reliable way to evaluate your pressure is to increase it to 35 - 38 lbs (cold) and then, if you like the handling, watch your tire wear. If your tires are to soft, they will wear at both edges of the tread. If they are over-inflated, they will wear in the middle (crown0 of the tread. If you'll check the wear pattern, you can determine the state of inflation. They should wear evenly.

Air resistance cuts your mpg also. Suggest you really clean and polish your car until it is smooth as a baby's butt. Then apply a good sealant and give it wash and a quick detail frequently. Also, the car has less resistance and gets better milage with the windows up and the a/c on than it does with the a/c off and the windows down and sun roof open. Talk to your tire people. Most people run their tire pressure at the 'factory recommended' level. Learn to read the codes on your tires and run them at a higher pressure and watch the wear pattern. Wear at the edges (both inner and outer) indicates a too low pressure; wear at the tread crown indicates too high a pressure. I run my 2002 LS430's Michelin A/S Sport Pilots at 38 lbs all around. good handling and even tire wear. Also have them balanced and rotated every 5k and a 4 wheel alignment every 5k. Most state Highway Patrol cars run at 40 lbs. "Google it!" Check the car for "stuff". It is amazing how much junk accumulates in the pockets, compartments, under the seats and in the trunk - unnecessary weight to spend mpg for. And, as mentioned earlier, drive at least 1/4th mile ahead, preferably 1/2. If you know that light is going to be red when you get there, take your foot off the gas now. And drive with one foot. Those who drive with one foot on the brake and one on the accelerator wear out their brakes quicker and also get really lousy milage (and are a pain to drive behind). When you can, in highway driving, set the cruise control and avoid weaving in and out of traffic. Before you purchase a K&N or new plugs, check them out with some on-line research. I have a K&N in one of my cars (gift of my son) and I maintain it regularly and I can't tell a lick of difference. There was a thread about all of these upgrades posted on the Buick Reatta Forum recently with some excellent references, especially regarding air filters, oil filters, and synthetic oils, etc. You might search that forum (http://forums.aaca.org/ubbthreads.php/ubb/postlist/Board/3/page/1) Also consider that you are planning to spend $500 or the equivalent of 100 to 125 gallons of gas to get a 5 - 10% increase in milage. Do the math based on your annual miles driven and possible cost savings; you might be better off investing those bucks in a cd. Yeah, I know most all of the above is common sense, but common sense ain't "common".

Back on 31 May, my millenium silver 2002 LS430 got caught in the hail. No windshield damage or chips to the paint, thank heavens. Dents all over the hood, trunk, top and "chrome window sills. Looks like someone went over the car with a ball peen hammer. My dent man says he can handle all of the dents except those on the top rails and the ones on the "chrome" trim beside all 4 windows. Those need replacement. The top rails are a simple on-off since they are held in place by clips. The car is tight, no rattles, no wind noise, and the windows work well and smoothly. In short, my Lex looks and runs great aside from the hail damage. My question: The interior door pannels have to be removed to replace the window trim. Is there anything which needs to be checked while they are off? Thanks, !Removed!

Through a lamentable oversight, I neglected to purchase an extended warranty from Lexus on my 2002 LS430. I purchased the car new, and it has received all scheduled maintainance and service at the recommended intervals through Flow Lexus in Kernersville, N.C. The car was purchased in September 2002 and currently has 54,700 miles. I contacted Lexus and was told that they could not make any exception even though the car is less than 4 years old and is only 4700 miles over the 50k warranty limit. My questions: 1) Has anyone any suggestions as to how I might obtain a Lexus warranty? 2) Has anyone found a reliable warranty service which is easy to deal with and reimburses reasonably and quickly? 3) Realizing that my next service (60k) is going to be expensive 800 - 1000 bucks, what has been the general experience regarding possible and probable problems I might expect from this vehicle over then next 50 k miles? Thanks, HRP

Since you are in Ohio and appear partial to Michelins, I'd suggest the Michelin Pilot series. The road noise is somewhat increased since they are All Season tires. We've run them on our last 3 cars (in the piedmont area of N.C.) and been very happy with the traction and ride, highway, country (2 lane), and around town. Did drive in Ohio last spring and summer on 2 trips to get a puppy, and had to go somewhere about 25 miles from "you can't get there from here" on unmarked 1 1/2 lane secondary(?) roads. We do drive an LS430 currently. Please let us know which tire you choose.

Car: 2002 LS430, only options are heated seats and sunroof. 53k Today while pulling into a parking lot my wife and I heard a faint high pitched continuous with slight pulsations noise which seemed to originate from behind the dashboard on the right (passenger) side. It came and went, persisted with the car stopped, placed in park, and the climate control off. Emergency brake was not accidentally partially engaged. No idiot lights were on. All windows up. Radio off, cruise off. Turned off the ignition and withdrew the key. The steering wheel moved to its off position. The noise persisted for at least 15 seconds then stopped. Shopped for a few minutes. Started the car, the noise returned and continued intermittantly as I drove 4 miles home. Stopped as I pulled into the driveway. The noise was pitched at about an A above high C (I'm a barbershop singer, so checked it as remembered with my pitchpipe.) We had been stop and go driving, running errands prior to our last stop. total milage on trip around 25. Anybody got any ideas as to the cause? I suspected a foreign body in the fan, but with the ignition and climate control off?

My wife reported that she had heard a discussion on a talk show about the cost of replacement keys for newer Japanese Luxury cars. The gist was that replacement keys for a Lexus (Accura, etc) ran between 2 and 4 thousand bucks. Reason given was the patent protected electronics involved. 1) True or false? 2) If ture, does that apply to my 2002 LS430?

I purchased my LS430 90 miles away from the nearest dealer to save 5k. It has been serviced by the nearest dealer ever since with no problems. I get fast, courteous, and good service.

Prior to applying the sealant, get not only the wheels, but also the tires as clean as possible. Apply the sealant and dress the tires. Thereafter use your regular carwash to clean the wheels and tires (a brush helps with the tires). A wheel cleaner will remove the sealant. And if you decide to use a spray tire shine before you apply sealant to the wheels again, cut out a piece of cardboard to keep the tire shine off of the wheels. Tire shine probablywon't hurt the sealant, but boy does it attract brake dust.

Suggest you consider doing your own detail from the very beginning. I use Zaino products (www.Zainostore.com). Their new Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleanser Swirl Remover followed by an application of Z-2 PRO plus ZFX, then their Z-8 Grand Finale Spray Seal should do the job. (I use them on a black Excalibur, Red Reatta, and Silver LS430). I'd also suggest using their carwash exclusively. I am also an Autopian; you might check the product reviews of all the products (not only Zaino's) on their site www.autopia.org I'm obviously one of those Zaino Zealots. Not only do Zaino products work great, but most of them smell great tempting you to add rum and sip them. Their leather conditioner (Z-10 Leather In A Bottle) makes the leather look and smell great. Many of us leave the applicator in the car to keep the scent around longer. The Zaino website tells you step by step exactly how to do the detailing, and you've time to order and detail before it gets cold again. BTW, I was cued to Zaino from the Reatta discussion group several years ago. I am asked frequently how I like my new car (the 91 Reatta convertible with 93k on her) when she's freshly cleaned up (original paint).

I've always been very satisfied with Michelins. Check out this one: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?ti...re1=yes&place=0

If your OEM's are 205x55x16, suggest Michelin Pilot SX MXX3 (info from from tirerack.com) If they're 215/45-17, suggest Michelin Pilot Sport (info from Tirerack.com) We're in NC and run the Michelin Pilot Sport A/S on our '02 LS430 (wouldn't buy the car without them). Replaced them this month with 40+k on them at about $145/tire (mounted and balanced). We have a local tire store (Taylor) which will match or better the best on-line or other local prices. I did add, for $5 a tire, road hazard coverage. I followed my wife home from the store and watched her drive over glass and debris from a very recent wreck 1/2 mile from the store, but no damage to the tires (magically due to the road hazard warranty??).

Picked this up on another forum, but thought y'all might be interested: Through 7-27-05 Autozone is offering up to two bottles of Chevron's Techron Fuel System Cleaner for free after rebate. So for taxes and a postage stamp you can get two 12 ounce bottles for nearly free Hurry cuz it ends on the 27th!

No, I've been watching autopia also. My wife has put the brakes on my ordering any new Zaino products until I drive her up to Ohio to pick up her new puppy. I can hardly wait to use the new polish Sal's introduced. My LS430 doesn't need it, but my '91 Reatta does.