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startacus

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Everything posted by startacus

  1. That's some valuable information for all of us die hard music fans. I have been seriously considering changing out my factory head unit in my '95 SC400. Were you able to achieve a decent finished look with your installation? Do you have any pics? I certainly appreciate you taking the time to post all of this information. Congratulations on your installation gone well!
  2. Belt is serpentine and it runs everything. Alternator. Power Steering. Compressor. Etc.
  3. Thanks for your answers REKIT. I will definitely try that tomorrow or Tuesday. It DOES kill the engine when that AC switch is manually hit. I could be in traffic or at a stop light. I could even be driving 70mph down the road. When that switch is depressed I have a 90% chance the engine will die. Further, acceleration is extremely difficult if the car does not turn off and if I let off the accelerator it does indeed die! This AC issue was not an issue (that I knew of) when I purchased the car. However, a few weeks into having the car I noticed that things were slowing down - windows, etc. Just thought it was me. Then one day the car died and I could not get it cranked until I turned the AC switch off. That day I thought it was a fluke because the AC switch was off but I was still getting cold air. I have since learned that the condenser was probably still cold which is why I had cold air after the fact. When the lights got dim I knew I could also have an alternator or a battery issue. Then the car died. I had the battery charged and put it back into the car which lasted about 3 days before it died again. Had it charged again, took it to Auto Zone whom told me I was only getting 10 volts on charge. Advised me to replace it. Had alternator replaced with what I thought was a 100-amp alternator and had it retested. They said alternator was putting out 84-amps at 13.9 volts. However they advised me I may also have a battery issue. The alternator is definitely working and everything in the car runs fine outside of the fact that of this AC issue. My thoughts were this is some sort of current issue or wiring issue with the compressor not getting enough power to run or the compressor is taking away too much power from everything else. I hadn't thought of it being the compressor itself because when it turns on the air is ICE COLD!!! But when its off of course there's nothing cool about it.
  4. Personally, I'd have someone check to see whether or not you're even getting power as well as ignition power there at the head before spending $300+ on AC control module. I'd hate for you to do that only to find out theres no power there in the first place. If you've got the head out I am sure with an inexpensive ohmmeter you could check for voltage yourself before the expense. It could be a partially pulled harness as well. Good luck!
  5. Mine - similar vibration - The culprit was the transmission mount however I went on and replaced the motor mounts as well while they were under there. ;)
  6. Hi there, I just fixed my passenger door handle recently. I can tell you that the outside handle and the inside handle are controlled differently. To fix both problems you will need to completely remove the panel itself. 2 small screws on the left side vinyl almost on the end of the door, 3 screws at the bottom of the door, 2-3 pull clips which will probably come off easily, but most importantly, 2 long bolts underneath the armrest itself, and you've got the door panel off. Once off, you're looking for the mechanism on the far right of the door itself. You'll have to (carefully) remove the clear plastic sheet held on by black silicone gunk to see this mechanism. If you're working with low light, make sure you have some sort of light stick, drop light, etc. that you can place inside of the door itself to see it. The outside door handle is a rod that actually pushes down from the door handle directly into the lock mechanism itself. If the rod is not either attached to the top right of the door handle within the door, or on top of the mechanism, then its most likely on the bottom of the door frame inside. It could've been thrust to the front of the door itself over time so you may end up looking long and far for that one. Also, its easiest to replace that by removing the handle itself and attaching it to the mechanism first and then to the door handle before putting it back on. 10mm nuts secure it to the door. The inside door handle is definitely cable driven as you know. It also attaches to the door mechanism but on a different arm in which its pulling on the latch itself via cable. You will have to examine that side of the cable to see whether or not it has broken off of the mechanism or just came loose from it. If it just came loose you can put it back in. If you examine the mechanism itself by taking a screwdriver to the latch itself where the striker plate comes in contact with the door and push the latch down to make it close. Then open it. That hole you see moving inside of the door will show you which hole it is your cable should be attached to. If you see it broken off, then you will most likely have to replace the entire mechanism. However, in most cases, its the cable itself either the end broken or coming loose. All of these parts you may need can be found new or used on eBay, and sometimes even on these sites. I hope some of this helps you. Good luck!
  7. For the SC300, the book shows capacity at 5.5 quarts. Hope this helps!
  8. That's right - its almost unbelievable! Car is a 1995 SC400. 179K miles. I purchased this car used from an owner whom kinda neglected the car mechanically. One of the highlights though WAS the cold AC. The AC works and blows very cold. No problems with fan, fan speed, temperature selection, etc. However, when the car warms up, so it seems, 2 minutes tops, the car will turn completely off when the AC button is on. When you attempt to restart, the car will not start until the AC button is turned off. If the car does start, there is almost no acceleration at all. But when you turn the button off the car runs fantastic. Just no cold air. And if you're driving and press that button the entire car will die! I noticed this problem with the AC get incrementally worse until I noticed the alternator was getting weak as well. I ended up replacing the alternator last week. I was truly hoping the AC problem would disappear with the newfound amperage of the new alternator however the problem returned. I dont know if this will help, but I noticed that someone has hacked into the original alternator harness (there is no connector at all at this time). They used wires that appear to me to be very thin (maybe 18 or 20 guage), and they connected these wires to the alternator using female spade connectors. I've also noticed (dont know if this is related or not) but when the car is at a stop light when the AC is actually working, the RPM's drop to 500 or so (real low), and sometimes I actually have to put my foot on the accelerator to keep it from stalling out. I did have the alternator tested prior to having it installed, and everything else in the car seems to be working fine with the exception of this AC issue. Can anyone shed some light as to what I could/should do? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks alot!
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