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paldino

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  • Lexus Model
    SC300

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  1. Hey, you can see my post, it's couple post bellow yours, I'm parting out my lexus, and I have new water pump, new timing belt and pullies, they have probably 1 to 3 thousand miles on them. I could sell them to you. Auto Zone had a variety of timing and accessory belts about $30 and $15 respectively. AZ also got me the throttle body gasket and fuel filter The water pump I found at Advance Auto Parts, make them dig through the computer to find it & make sure to count the holes - the 10 hole pump is available everywhere, the 11 hole pump I needed was a Beck Arnley - new for $109. Believe it or not the A/F is available at WalMart ! If you have to go to the well then try Sewell Lexus online, they are very efficient, and customer oriented. Also when removing the crankshaft front pulley, buy the special tool available on eBay for $55, (search for 'Lexus & Toyota Harmonic Damper Pulley Holding Tool' the seller was 'pageauto1' in New Jersey)it works better than anything you could conjure up ... especially don't do the breaker bar starter motor suggestion, that's just wrong! Good luck - nothing like the sound of a straight six at full song!
  2. Update: If anyone is interested I found these in the Mitchel service. They suggest using hot oil immersion for testing the resistance. EGR TEMPERATURE SENSOR RESISTANCE TABLE øF (øC) Ohms 112 (50) ................................... 64,000- 97,000 212 (100) .................................. 11,000- 16,000 302 (150) ...................................... 2,000- 4,000 Also Code 71 is a "two trip code" so it will not show up on the first test drive. You will need to shut off the engine, restart, and test drive again in order for the code to set again after being cleared. (or maybe not if you fixed it :-))
  3. I did the 100K service recently - new belts, water pump, spark plugs. The car runs like new, except that now I get a check engine light when rolling along in 5th gear. It reads as a Code 71 - One suggestion in the manual is a 1 - 4 second error in the EGR temperature, which I tend to believe. The question is, everything was fine before, so why am I geting this now? I suspect it is vacuum related, since the throttle body was removed to do the spark plugs. Any suggstions on troubleshooting. EGR appears OK its diaphram holds vacuum, opens and closes properly.
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