blessed

I've tested a spark plug and the High Tension Cords from the both distributors and none produce spark when the engine is cranked. I'm guessing the possible culprit would be the coils, but is it possible that they both fail at the same time or if one fails they both fail? Thanks for your suggestions!

Thanks....I just pulled one plug from each side and... no spark. I pulled the High Tension Cord from each distributor and no spark. Not sure how to check the cables other than just making sure that they're well seated. Can both coils go bad at the same time? That would seem strange. ?

Hey guys, Happy New Year! I'm celebrating by watching a little football and trying to figure out why my 91 LS refuses to start. Initially thought it was the fuel pump, but replaced that yesterday and still not starting. Check to see if fuel is getting to the motor and yes it is. Then I pulled the High Tension Cord from one of the distributors and held it about an inch away from the valve cover and cranked it over. NO SPARK! (I think this is the best way to check for spark) So, now what? I'm at a loss as to why I don't have spark. Previously (see my previous posts), the car would run well, but after I turned it off from a 30 min. or so drive it would not start (just cranked over strong) until about 30 minutes later then it started fine. Additionally, when I would be driving and punch it hard to pass a car on the highway it would die in the middle of the highway (I just coasted to the side of the road). This happened about 3 times. So I thought it was a fuel issue. So, any suggestions as to why I'm not getting any spark? Thanks for your advice in advance!

Relay is in the main fuse box in the engine bay, lift the cover and look underneath, sticker will show you which is which I think. How long have you cranked for? you may need to crank for a 30 second burst, but certainly no more than that or you could overheat the starter windings. Thanks! I cranked several times for at least 15 to 20 seconds each. I'll try again today for a bit.

91 LS with a new Fuel Pump and still will not start. It cranks over fine, however, it appears to not be getting any fuel. So, I'm guessing I need to check or replace the Fuel Presure Regulator and/or the Fuel Pump Relay. The fuel pump is working fine. Any ideas on their location? Thanks and Happy New Year!

Thanks for your ideas guy's! The car runs like new after it starts. This has been happening most of the summer and it's been a somewhat hot and dry one in Nor Cal (Sacramento). Thanks for ruling out the Vapor Lock idea and I'll pull one of the plugs the next time it happens when at home. I'm running regual octane fuel (87) for the most part. I'll also purchace a can of starter fluid and check my battery connections. I'll keep you guys posted. Thanks again for your input. Blessed

91 LS with 225k runs great, however, it doesn't start after driving it for a while. Letting it sit seems to fix the problem (that is until it's driven again for a while). After sitting for at least 1 hour it will start with no problem. The car will turn over, but doesn't seem to be getting fuel so it just turns over and over without starting. A short drive (under 15 min) and the car will start again without a problem. Is this a vapor lock or is the Feul Pump going bad or what?????? Thanks in advance for your help! s

I had this problem as well. I looked into it myself and noticed that the holes on the disc (aftermarket) where the wheel studs go were significantly bigger than the studs on the hub, this meant that the disc could move around before resting on the studs to stop the car. When driving in a linear motion they disc would already be lying on the stud but when you turn, the disk moves around some before making contact with the studs. I bought the origonal discs from the dealer, threw them on and the noise went away. Look into it and see if the hub moves around when you take off the wheel. Interesting....Are you referring to the brake discs? If so did that happen on all 4 or just the front. Wouldn't that cause some rubbing and/or distruction over time? I'll check it out. I haven't seen any grooves cut into any metal the last time I changed the brakes, but I'll look a little closer. Thanks for your reply! S

Hey guy's, 91 LS, 200k miles and noticed a clicking noise when I let off the gas peddle. The noise goes away when excellerating and returns when I let off the gas. Anyone have ideas or suggestions? This has been happening on and off now for over a year. It happens mainly after the car has been sitting at an idle for a while (5 or 10 minutes). The clicking noise seems to click with the speed of the car. Clicks slower as the car slows down. I'm thinking it's the drive shaft or the u joints or other bearings tied to the drive train. I don't think the LS has CV Joints but not sure. If you have any links to how to replace any of these please let me know. Thanks!

I found those too. Anyone buy one for the E-Bay venor? It looks like they rebuild them. Retail cost's for the complete package is just under $1,000.....From the E-Bay vendor it's only $250. Doesn't sound too bad if their any good. Suggestions?

Thanks....I'll check those out!

Well, it must be Murphy's Law that when it get's hot your A/C Compressor goes out. Do we really have to go to the Lexus dealer to get a new A/C Compressor? 91 LS with 225k and running strong. Great car with very little trouble. Suggestions as to where to find a new A/C Compressor for a 91 LS?

S: Filter, Filter, Filter................ (Cabin Air Filter................is it clean?) Do a search on this site for "cabin air filter"..............There's plenty of info here. Thanks Threadcutter......Did the search and took off the panel only to find out the 90-92 LS does not have Cabin Air Filters. <grin> Do you have any other suggestions? Thanks SKperformance..... Did a search for "air control dampers" and nothing came up (other than this thread) Is this something that must be done at the shop with special tools? Sounds like it is. Is a vacume leak simple to fix or complex (expensive)? S

What do you think guy's? I've got a 91 LS 400 and just had the AC charged. The service invoice states they Added Freon to Full Level, Took 1.5lbs. System Holds 2.42 Total. High Presure Side is at 178 psi, Low Side is at 29 psi. Vent temp at 33 degree's. However, when your driving down the road the AC begins to blow warmer air. When at a stop light or at an idle it's nice and cold. What's even more interesting is the fact the two center vents are blowing considerably different temperatures. The driver vent is a lot warmer than the passenger vent. ???? What's causing the AC to not blow COLD air when driving? Thanks in advance for your suggestions. S

Technical training course L752 has all you will ever want to know about air con, it is 9 pdf files about 3.12MB in size and can be downloaded from http://techinfo.lexus.com I just hope I never need it! Thanks! I hope I don't need it either. I set an appointment to have it charged at a shop I've used a couple of time. It's only $175 so what the heck. Thanks again!

No, but since your system is still blowing some cold air, then the leak is likely just a slow one and the system likely just needs a can or two of R12 which can be added in about 15 minutes. The cans cost about $20 each on Ebay and the charging hose is about $7. And for $15 you could get licensed to buy R12 by passing a 25 question on line test at www.macsw.org. An AC shop might want you to jump through a bunch or hurdles like insisiting on finding and fixing the slow leak, which in turn would necessitate labor intensive procedures like totally discharging and recharging the system, drawing a vacuum on the system, etc. In other words, a $300 - $600 repair bill. Meanwhile, don't run your AC system because compressor lubricating oil circulates with the R12 and the compressor will be somewhat starved of oil if your system is low on refrigerant R12. If you live in the Sacramento area and want me to look at your car or teach you how to recharge it, send me a private mesage. Thanks again Monarch....I would like to discuss your looking at my system. Not sure how to do the private massage, but I'll figure it out. Thanks for the info on turning off my AC as not to run it dry.

Thanks Monarch! I notice your from Sac. Ideas on where to take my 91 LS to charge the AC? What about cost? Thanks KO.... My car has never been converted to R134 and I'm not sure if I event want to. Thanks for your input.

Hey guy's I'v got a nice 91 LS with over 200k that still looks like new and runs even better. However, it started to blow hot (or warm) air from the vents with the AC on. It tends to get a little cooler when stopped at a stop light but returns to a warm blow upon moving. I'm guessing the AC just needs a good charge. I've owned this car for almost 10 years and had a new compressor installed about 9 years ago. If memory serves me well I have a small leak and have had it recharged once befor. Question is...could I do this myself (and how do I do it) or do you recommend I take it to a shop? Thanks for your input! B

So 69 Stang.....what ever became of this? I'v recently experianced the same situation. Took it to a non dealer shop...they did a great job and now the air leaks out when sitting. Suggestions from your experiance.. Steve

So...did you rebuild your LS Suspension? I'm in the process of rebuilding my 91 LS front suspension and found the cost of front shocks literally a "SHOCK" at $1,000 each. Did you find the same thing? Let me know how it went. Steve

Hey guy's (and those girls out there), 91 LS, 200k miles and just noticed a clicking noise when I let off the gas peddle. Anyone have ideas or suggestions? I'm thinking it's the drive shaft or the u joints or other bearings tied to the drive train. I don't think the LS has CV Joints but not sure. If you have any links to how to replace any of these please let me know. Thanks!

Hey Maxed, So did you change your drive shaft or the hanger bearing? I'm beginning to encounter some "clicking" noise when I let off the gas peddle. I don't think the LS has CV Joints so I'm my bet is on the drive shaft, u joints or the hanger bearing. Let me know how tough of a job it was if you did change the ds. Blessed

Checked the white w/black strip wire on left side of trunk hinge and it was cut. Spliced it back together as you suggested and it fixed everything! WOW! Thanks! You the MAN!

check the posts, but there is a wire bundle on the drivers side trunk hinge that flexes and breaks. this cause your reverse indicator to light up when the brake is applied and also feels like the transmission is disconecting or downshifting. Fix that wire, and your car will not jerk anymore when touching the brake. For some reason this fixes a lot of problems. I fixed mine, with butt connector, but im sure that soldering the wire back would be cool too. later THE SNAKE 1992 LS 400 ← Thanks Man! Cleaned the battery connectors well. Still didn't help. After more investigation, it seems to downshift from OD to 3rd (or D) once the brake is applied, however, if I take it out of OD and place it in D and apply the brake it stays in that gear when the brake is applied. Suggestions!

as blake mentioned, your ball joints are shot. ← Thanks! I'll look into replacing the ball joints. However, I noticed that when I shake the tire the bushing at the top connecting the Upper Suspension Arm and the Arm that goes down to the brake/wheel housing wiggling free as well. What is that bushing called....any idea?