Omegaman

agrm.pdfgp.pdfmpx_bea.pdf Here are three (3) files that might help. Please be aware that these are for the 2008 GX470, NOT the 2004. So, it may not be exactly the same as the 2004, probably is not, so use at your own risk!!! I do not have the diagrams for the 2004. Good luck Omegaman.

Pushing the button in turns the cruise on but doesn't engage it. To engage it push the lever down for just a quick second. It should now be engaged at the speed you are traveling. To speed up, push the lever up to slow down push the lever down. To cancel pull the lever in toward you. Omegaman

You should be able to just manually change the numbers to what you want. If you have the different numbers in your Tilt under the same name, it should transfer all of them when you beam the contact. If some numbers are duplicated, just change one of them manually to the correct one after you beam the contact. To do this, on the same screen where you touched “Transfer” to transfer the contact, instead touch “Edit” and then select the contact you want to edit. Once here you can touch either “TEL1” or “TEL2” and manually change the number. You have to hit the back space to get to the beginning of the number and then just touch the numbers buttons to enter the number. When you are done just hit the “OK” button. You can now hit the “Menu” (hard button) to get out and bring up the map again. Omegaman

From the owners manual: ROUTE GUIDANCE Map view Display POI icons Points of Interest such as gas stations and restaurants can be displayed on the map screen. You can also set their location as a destination and use them for route guidance. 1. Touch Map View. 2. Touch Display POI Icon to display a particular type of Point of Interest on the screen. A screen with a limited choice of Points of Interest will be displayed. (To change the displayed POI, see page 108.) Selecting POIs to be displayed Up to 5 categories of icons can be displayed on the screen. Touch the desired Point of Interest category to display POI location symbols on the map screen. By selecting the desired POI category and then touching OK, the selected POI icons are displayed on the map screen. To turn off the Points of Interest icon on the map screen, touch Delete. Other POIs: If the desired Point of Interest cannot be found on the limited choice screen, touch this button. Local POI List: When searching for the nearest Point of Interest, touch this button. Then choose one of the categories. The system will list the points within 20 miles (32 km). (See page 77.) Touch Other POIs on the Display POI icons screen. When a Point of Interest category is selected from either the limited list or the complete list, the screen will display symbols of those locations on the map screen. 76 ROUTE GUIDANCE Select the desired POI categories. The selected category icon appears on the top left of the screen. By selecting the desired POI category and then touching OK, the selected POI icons are displayed on the map screen. If the desired POI category is not on the screen, touch List All Categories to list all POI categories. Select the desired POI categories from the list. The selected category icon appears on the top left of the screen. By selecting the desired POI category and then touching OK, the selected POI icons are displayed on the map screen. To return to the POI category selection screen, touch More. To display the local POI list Points of Interest that are within 20 miles (32 km) of the current position will be listed from among the selected categories. 1. Touch Local POI List on the Display POI icons screen. 2. Touch the button of the desired Point of Interest. The selected Points of Interest are displayed on the map screen. On Route: When the indicator is illuminated by touching this button, the list of the items searched along the route is displayed. 77 Omegaman

The clunk is related to the dynamic height control system. The GX470 dynamically adjusts the height of the back end of the vehicle based on road conditions and how it is being driven, in order to give a smoother ride. When you come to a stop, the height adjustment system will lower or raise itself to place the height at its normal position. When this happens, the driveshaft is going to move forward or aft and the arms are going to experience more or less force/strain. Because of the design of the driveshaft, and its lack of grease, it has heated up and thus now has a tighter fit. When the driveshaft is being forced to move by the height changing it has less friction in the rotational sphere then in the forward/backward directions and then it turns until it seats itself, i.e. relieves the forces or stabilizes. This is what causes the sense of being pushed forward, because in affect you are. Given the above explanation of what is happening, anything under the vehicle, especially in the back or that is part of the drive train, can have an effect on how much or little you feel the “clunk”. The new driveshaft has been changed to give it extra play forward and back so that it will move more freely in those directions rather than rotating, without causing enough play to cause other noise or functional problems. This is also why keeping it greased helps a great deal. Grease provides less friction as well as keeping the shaft cooler, which also reduces friction. The new arms have been changed to be able to better handle the forces placed on them by the height control system, as well as all the forces present in any vehicle. Omegaman

No, I have not had that happen to me that I noticed. I will let you know if I do. I only experienced the "clunk" twice, so it did not happen very often, in my case. I do have a little more information that explains, and helps at least me to understand, what is happening with the “clunk” – The clunk is related to the dynamic height control system. The GX470 dynamically adjusts the height of the back end of the vehicle based on road conditions and how it is being driven, in order to give a smoother ride. When you come to a stop, the height adjustment system will lower or raise itself to place the height at its normal position. When this happens, the driveshaft is going to move forward or aft and the arms are going to experience more or less force/strain. Because of the design of the driveshaft, and its lack of grease, it has heated up and thus now has a tighter fit. When the driveshaft is being forced to move by the height changing it has less friction in the rotational sphere then in the forward/backward directions and then it turns until it seats itself, i.e. relieves the forces or stabilizes. This is what causes the sense of being pushed forward, because in affect you are. Given the above explanation of what is happening, anything under the vehicle, especially in the back or that is part of the drive train, can have an effect on how much or little you feel the “clunk”. The new driveshaft has been changed to give it extra play forward and back so that it will move more freely in those directions rather than rotating, without causing enough play to cause other noise or functional problems. This is also why keeping it greased helps a great deal. Grease provides less friction as well as keeping the shaft cooler, which also reduces friction. The new arms have been changed to be able to better handle the forces placed on them by the height control system, as well as all the forces present in any vehicle. About the A/C, it is normal for the RPM to go up for a second or two when the A/C engages. This is to compensate for the extra load placed on the engine when the pump is started. The question is; can the A/C cause the “clunk”. I do not know for sure. One way that it could would be if the increase in RPM causes the hydraulic system that raises and lowers the back of the vehicle to do so faster i.e. increase the pressure. This increase in pressure could put more force/strain on the driveshaft, causing it to turn to seat itself. My suggestion would be to pay particular attention when stopping and see if you ever experience the “clunk” when the A/C does not come on, or is off altogether. If it does, it doesn’t prove the A/C cannot cause the “clunk”, but does prove that the A/C is not the only cause of the clunk. In my case, I saw no correlation between the “clunk” and the A/C. My opinion is that the A/C is not the root cause of the problem, but may have some affect on how often, and/or how much, the “clunk” happens and you feel it. Finally; the most important thing to remember is that the hotter the components (driveshaft) gets, and the more the height control system has to adjust to find normal, the more often/likely the “clunk” is to occur. This implies that a hotter day, longer driving period before a stop, hard driving, fast starts and stops, etc. should cause the problem to occur much more often. I should add that if not firmly holding the brake when the RPM goes up, the vehicle could/would move forward. This could be in combination with, or entirely separate from, the clunk. Omegaman

I took my 2008 GX470 (purchased in late March, 2008) to the dealer yesterday to change the plastic piece that covers the speedometer/tach/etc (because of scratches on the back/inside side, for the second time), and the clunk issue came up (I brought it up). They had no problem making the changes (TSB). The service manager, without hesitation, said, and I quote “I would be glad to complete the TSB” (which only technically goes through 2007), and said he would check to see if he had the parts. He did. They began to complete the TSB right then (same day), but, corporate said no, claiming my 2008 should already have the new parts. My dealer argued with them, stating that their customer had experienced the clunk (I experienced it only two times (1400 miles), and this is what I told him). They (corporate) agreed to allow the dealer to change the driveshaft, but not the arms (upper/lower, two sets of two). My dealer changed the driveshaft. My dealer said that the driveshafts were, without question, different, but they could see no visible difference in the arms (note that they did not really look closely (measure them), so there may really be some difference; I have read that the new ones are larger in diameter but do not know if mine has the new or the old). The dealer (service manager) also said that the numbers on the driveshaft don't mean much. They use the part numbers specified in the TSB, and the numbers on the driveshaft may not be the same when ordering the driveshaft by the part number in the TSB. The service manager and I spent at least 1/2 hour looking for some mention of the VIN regarding the clunk issue. We could not find any. There seems to be nothing in the VIN that would tell them/you if or if not the clunk TSB is included. The bottom line is that the dealer has no easy way to determine if you have or not the new driveshaft and arms. They just go by complaints. If you complain, and based only on the complaint, they (the dealer) should/may apply the TSB, but corporate may prevent them from doing the entire TSB, or any of it depending on the vehicle and how strongly the dealer is willing to argue with them on your behalf. When I say prevent, I mean of course, they will not pay for it. I have not driven the vehicle long enough to see if the clunk is gone. I have not experienced it yet, but hardly did before. Since I have only driven 40 miles since the driveshaft change (due to my three recent surgeries) I really don’t know if it is fixed. I cannot really tell any difference except that it may shift a little smoother. One last note, the service manager said that the biggest part of the clunk problem is lack of grease in the drive shaft (the end that goes into the transmission, I think, and which has no grease fitting). He grease mine up when he installed it. The other end has a grease fitting but since it is not mentioned in the dealer prep documentation only experienced techs will know to grease this as part of the prep before sale. He said, as the driveshaft gets drier and drier (grease melts or thins out) the worse the clunk will be. He gets his 2007 GX470 greased (the driveshaft) at every oil change, and we agreed that he would do the same to mine at every oil change. Omegaman Thanks for the information - - I'm going to follow up with my dealership sooner or later on this and although I don't feel the "clunk" when stopping, it's a different story when I have my A/C on. When the A/C cycles on, my rpms go up a bit for a brief second or two and sometimes, I feel a little push from behind. I think it may be the increase in rpm. Does this happen to you? Not many '08 owners here yet, so figured you may have experienced this as well? No, I have not had that happen to me that I noticed. I will let you know if I do. I only experienced the "clunk" twice, so it did not happen very often, in my case. I do have a little more information that explains, and helps at least me to understand, what is happening with the “clunk” – The clunk is related to the dynamic height control system. The GX470 dynamically adjusts the height of the back end of the vehicle based on road conditions and how it is being driven, in order to give a smoother ride. When you come to a stop, the height adjustment system will lower or raise itself to place the height at its normal position. When this happens, the driveshaft is going to move forward or aft and the arms are going to experience more or less force/strain. Because of the design of the driveshaft, and its lack of grease, it has heated up and thus now has a tighter fit. When the driveshaft is being forced to move by the height changing it has less friction in the rotational sphere then in the forward/backward directions and then it turns until it seats itself, i.e. relieves the forces or stabilizes. This is what causes the sense of being pushed forward, because in affect you are. Given the above explanation of what is happening, anything under the vehicle, especially in the back or that is part of the drive train, can have an effect on how much or little you feel the “clunk”. The new driveshaft has been changed to give it extra play forward and back so that it will move more freely in those directions rather than rotating, without causing enough play to cause other noise or functional problems. This is also why keeping it greased helps a great deal. Grease provides less friction as well as keeping the shaft cooler, which also reduces friction. The new arms have been changed to be able to better handle the forces placed on them by the height control system, as well as all the forces present in any vehicle. About the A/C, it is normal for the RPM to go up for a second or two when the A/C engages. This is to compensate for the extra load placed on the engine when the pump is started. The question is; can the A/C cause the “clunk”. I do not know for sure. One way that it could would be if the increase in RPM causes the hydraulic system that raises and lowers the back of the vehicle to do so faster i.e. increase the pressure. This increase in pressure could put more force/strain on the driveshaft, causing it to turn to seat itself. My suggestion would be to pay particular attention when stopping and see if you ever experience the “clunk” when the A/C does not come on, or is off altogether. If it does, it doesn’t prove the A/C cannot cause the “clunk”, but does prove that the A/C is not the only cause of the clunk. In my case, I saw no correlation between the “clunk” and the A/C. My opinion is that the A/C is not the root cause of the problem, but may have some affect on how often, and/or how much, the “clunk” happens and you feel it. Finally; the most important thing to remember is that the hotter the components (driveshaft) gets, and the more the height control system has to adjust to find normal, the more often/likely the “clunk” is to occur. This implies that a hotter day, longer driving period before a stop, hard driving, fast starts and stops, etc. should cause the problem to occur much more often. I should add that if not firmly holding the brake when the RPM goes up, the vehicle could/would move forward. This could be in combination with, or entirely separate from, the clunk. Omegaman

I took my 2008 GX470 (purchased in late March, 2008) to the dealer yesterday to change the plastic piece that covers the speedometer/tach/etc (because of scratches on the back/inside side, for the second time), and the clunk issue came up (I brought it up). They had no problem making the changes (TSB). The service manager, without hesitation, said, and I quote “I would be glad to complete the TSB” (which only technically goes through 2007), and said he would check to see if he had the parts. He did. They began to complete the TSB right then (same day), but, corporate said no, claiming my 2008 should already have the new parts. My dealer argued with them, stating that their customer had experienced the clunk (I experienced it only two times (1400 miles), and this is what I told him). They (corporate) agreed to allow the dealer to change the driveshaft, but not the arms (upper/lower, two sets of two). My dealer changed the driveshaft. My dealer said that the driveshafts were, without question, different, but they could see no visible difference in the arms (note that they did not really look closely (measure them), so there may really be some difference; I have read that the new ones are larger in diameter but do not know if mine has the new or the old). The dealer (service manager) also said that the numbers on the driveshaft don't mean much. They use the part numbers specified in the TSB, and the numbers on the driveshaft may not be the same when ordering the driveshaft by the part number in the TSB. The service manager and I spent at least 1/2 hour looking for some mention of the VIN regarding the clunk issue. We could not find any. There seems to be nothing in the VIN that would tell them/you if or if not the clunk TSB is included. The bottom line is that the dealer has no easy way to determine if you have or not the new driveshaft and arms. They just go by complaints. If you complain, and based only on the complaint, they (the dealer) should/may apply the TSB, but corporate may prevent them from doing the entire TSB, or any of it depending on the vehicle and how strongly the dealer is willing to argue with them on your behalf. When I say prevent, I mean of course, they will not pay for it. I have not driven the vehicle long enough to see if the clunk is gone. I have not experienced it yet, but hardly did before. Since I have only driven 40 miles since the driveshaft change (due to my three recent surgeries) I really don’t know if it is fixed. I cannot really tell any difference except that it may shift a little smoother. One last note, the service manager said that the biggest part of the clunk problem is lack of grease in the drive shaft (the end that goes into the transmission, I think, and which has no grease fitting). He grease mine up when he installed it. The other end has a grease fitting but since it is not mentioned in the dealer prep documentation only experienced techs will know to grease this as part of the prep before sale. He said, as the driveshaft gets drier and drier (grease melts or thins out) the worse the clunk will be. He gets his 2007 GX470 greased (the driveshaft) at every oil change, and we agreed that he would do the same to mine at every oil change. Omegaman

Just an update; I took my 2008 GX470 (purchased in late March, 2008) to the dealer yesterday to change the plastic piece that covers the speedometer/tach/etc (because of scratches on the back/inside side, for the second time), and the clunk issue came up (I brought it up). They had no problem making the changes (TSB). The service manager, without hesitation, said, and I quote “I would be glad to complete the TSB” (which only technically goes through 2007), and said he would check to see if he had the parts. He did. They began to complete the TSB right then (same day), but, corporate said no, claiming my 2008 should already have the new parts. My dealer argued with them, stating that their customer had experienced the clunk (I experienced it only two times (1400 miles), and this is what I told him). They (corporate) agreed to allow the dealer to change the driveshaft, but not the arms (upper/lower, two sets of two). My dealer changed the driveshaft. My dealer said that the driveshafts were, without question, different, but they could see no visible difference in the arms (note that they did not really look closely (measure them), so there may really be some difference; I have read that the new ones are larger in diameter but do not know if mine has the new or the old). The dealer (service manager) also said that the numbers on the driveshaft don't mean much. They use the part numbers specified in the TSB, and the numbers on the driveshaft may not be the same when ordering the driveshaft by the part number in the TSB. The service manager and I spent at least 1/2 hour looking for some mention of the VIN regarding the clunk issue. We could not find any. There seems to be nothing in the VIN that would tell them/you if or if not the clunk TSB is included. The bottom line is that the dealer has no easy way to determine if you have or not the new driveshaft and arms. They just go by complaints. If you complain, and based only on the complaint, they (the dealer) should/may apply the TSB, but corporate may prevent them from doing the entire TSB, or any of it depending on the vehicle and how strongly the dealer is willing to argue with them on your behalf. When I say prevent, I mean of course, they will not pay for it. I have not driven the vehicle long enough to see if the clunk is gone. I have not experienced it yet, but hardly did before. Since I have only driven 40 miles since the driveshaft change (due to my three recent surgeries) I really don’t know if it is fixed. I cannot really tell any difference except that it may shift a little smoother. One last note, the service manager said that the biggest part of the clunk problem is lack of grease in the drive shaft (the end that goes into the transmission, I think, and which has no grease fitting). He grease mine up when he installed it. The other end has a grease fitting but since it is not mentioned in the dealer prep documentation only experienced techs will know to grease this as part of the prep before sale. He said, as the driveshaft gets drier and drier (grease melts or thins out) the worse the clunk will be. He gets his 2007 GX470 greased (the driveshaft) at every oil change, and we agreed that he would do the same to mine at every oil change. Omegaman

I'd like to know too. I'm using 5.1. Can I also use voice to use Bluetooith phone? One of the following methods should work for you since you have version 5.1 -- (it depends on what vehicle and year you have, will not work for newer versions, 6.1 or later) Step 1 Press The Menu button Step 2 Press the Volume button Step 3 Press The Upper Left of the screen Step 4 Press The Lower Left of the screen Step 5 Press Upper Left of the screen again Step 6 Press Lower Left of the screen again Step 7 Press and hold the Override Button until system beeps Step 8 Press Back Button in upper right corner Done! The Buttons For Navigation & Phone are now accessible Step 1 Press The Menu button Step 2 Press the System button Step 3 Press The Upper Left of the screen Step 4 Press The Lower Left of the screen Step 5 Press Upper Left of the screen again Step 6 Press Lower Left of the screen again Step 7 Press The Lower Right of the screen Step 8 Press and hold the Override Button until system beeps Step 9 Press Back Button in upper right corner Done! The Buttons For Navigation & Phone are now accessible Step 1 Press The Menu button Step 2 Press the DVD button Step 3 Press The Upper Left of the screen Step 4 Press The Lower Left of the screen Step 5 Press Upper Left of the screen again Step 6 Press Lower Left of the screen again Step 7 Press The Lower Right of the screen Step 8 Press and hold the Override Button until system beeps Step 9 Press Back Button in upper right corner Done! The Buttons For Navigation & Phone are now accessible Omegaman

The Big D: That is a question that has been asked for about 2 plus years now and the bad news is no one has found out how to do it on 2007 or later models. Some have made a hardware modification (entails cutting wires, or adding a switch, etc. which requires removing the Nav screen). I too would like to be able to actually use the nav system (that is my wife from the passenger seat) but after searching this forum and the internet for many many days now, I have found no solution. The problem is that Lexus has either removed the override option (used to be available with simple touches on the screen for older models), or it is accessible through some other means that so far no one has figured out. Omegaman

Does anyone know how you determine if a particular vehicle has the problem, or if it has been fixed? I just bought a 2008 GX470 in March. Does the VIN, production date or location have anything to do with it? I am not sure if mine has this clunk or not. I will check the next time I drive it. Thanks to these posts, I now know what to look/feel for. Thanks Omegaman

Does anyone know where you can report an inaccuracy in the map (Gen 5, 07.1)? There should be somewhere that you can make this information available so they can be fixed in the next revision of the map. All GPS systems I have owned (several different ones including Garmin) have my address incorrect. It seems that sometime over 12 years ago my house number (on a dead end street) was different. These maps all have the old street number, including the Lexus GX470. I sent this information to Garmin some years ago but since I do not use that navigation anymore, I do not know if they actually fixed it. It seems that although the official house number (mailing address) is correct, there seems that some part of the records still show the old house number. I have received mail at the correct address for some 12 years now, so they (the map folks) should be able to get it right. This is no big deal, but I know that Garmin encouraged people to give them this information so they could make their maps more accurate. Omegaman

Jim: I too have just purchased my first Lexus (2008 GX470). I have, over the last 10 years or so, purchased seven or eight new vehicles and all of them have blind spots. I have always thought that given the technology we have today, it is amazing that a rear view mirror system cannot be designed that does not have blind spots. Having said that, I believe the Lexus seems to me to be maybe just a little better than most other new vehicles that I have owned in this regard. There is indeed a blind spot, but, it is relatively small (if traffic is moving at 30 MPH or more) as compared to others. I think I have my mirrors adjusted so that this blind spot is as small as I can get it. As I stated, all vehicles have a blind spot and all you can do is adjust it to be as small as possible. If traffic is moving slowly, then this spot can be rather large and you must just turn your head and look before changing lanes. The Lexus GX470, from my experience, is no worse than many other vehicles I have owned. Omegaman

I have had the service supervisor look at the scratches and he said they are on the inside of the plastic, a defect. They are not on the outside. I am waiting for a new one to come in so they can change it again. I will provide more information as to what happens. Thanks Omegaman

Does anyone know how to get scratches off of the instrument panel cover (plastic I guess)? My 2008 GX470 had scratches on this panel, the one covering the speedometer/tach/temp/gas gages. I showed it to the dealer (not the one I bought it from) and they changed it will no questions. The new one has just about as many scratches. I do not know if it was scratched before they put it on, if they scratched it, or if I did trying to clean it (I used only a dry clean cloth). The steering wheel cover now also has some scratches down the left side that are about 1/2 inches long and it is obvious these little gouges were caused by a screwdriver sliding down it. I certainly did not do this. I never had any tools anywhere close to the vehicle. I could ask the dealer to replace it again, and might, but since I cannot be sure the scratches are something they did (the steering wheel cover small gouges they definitely did) or something I did. I really do not feel right asking them to replace it again under these circumstances. So can anyone help? Here are my specific questions: 1) This thing seems to be easily scratched. Can it get scratched by just using your finger or a soft cloth/Kleenex to remove dust? I have had many new vehicles over the years (first Lexus) and have never scratched this cover by cleaning on any of them. 2) Is there some product that will remove these scratches? I do not think they are deep but are surface scratches. 3) Is there some product that would cover up these small gouges on the steering column cover that would blend in with its color? These are like four or five small gouges in a line like would be made by running a screwdriver accidently across it (like would half to have been used to change the plastic gage cover). Thanks for any help. Omegaman

Does anyone know how to get scratches off of the instrument panel cover (plastic I guess)? My 2008 GX470 had scratches on this panel, the one covering the speedometer/tach/temp/gas gages. I showed it to the dealer (not the one I bought it from) and they changed it will no questions. The new one has just about as many scratches. I do not know if it was scratched before they put it on, if they scratched it, or if I did trying to clean it (I used only a dry clean cloth). The steering wheel cover now also has some scratches down the left side that are about 1/2 inches long and it is obvious these little gouges were caused by a screwdriver sliding down it. I certainly did not do this. I never had any tools anywhere close to the vehicle. I could ask the dealer to replace it again, and might, but since I cannot be sure the scratches are something they did (the steering wheel cover small gouges they definitely did) or something I did. I really do not feel right asking them to replace it again under these circumstances. So can anyone help? Here are my specific questions: 1) This thing seems to be easily scratched. Can it get scratched by just using your finger or a soft cloth/Kleenex to remove dust? I have had many new vehicles over the years (first Lexus) and have never scratched this cover by cleaning on any of them. 2) Is there some product that will remove these scratches? I do not think they are deep but are surface scratches. 3) Is there some product that would cover up these small gouges on the steering column cover that would blend in with its color? These are like four or five small gouges in a line like would be made by running a screwdriver accidently across it (like would half to have been used to change the plastic gage cover). Thanks for any help. Omegaman

zittibull: Although I cannot say for sure, it sounds to me like your issue may be related to your antenna/antennas, or the XM radio itself. If the radio cannot tune in the last station you had it on when you turned the key off (when you turn it back on), and that last station in your case was a XM station, then the XM will default to channel 001. There is a delay of a few seconds to allow the channel to be received, so the other possibility is that the installation has some way affected this delay (causing the radio to take longer than the time out to pick up a station). XM radio takes longer to tune a station initially because it has to determine that you are allowed to receive it (you have paid for it). Maybe the following will help narrow it down; 1) Does this occur on all the freq, that is AM, FM1, FM2, SAT1, SAT2, and SAT3 or just on the XM? That is, if you have the radio on some strong FM channel and turn the vehicle off and then back on, will it come back on with that channel playing? 2) Did they somehow affect your antenna/antennas when they did the installation? 3) I assume that the XM radio is separate from the regular radio (I assume you had a XM radio installed in addition to the radio that came with the vehicle) so do both radios come on at the same time, or is there some delay powering on between them? Since I do not know what kind of installation they did, I do not know how the new XM installation affects the factory radio and the factory radio affects (or not) the XM radio. The problem appears to me to be that the XM radio is not tuning in your previous channel quick enough to prevent the timer which automatically tunes the radio to channel 001 from going off. The question is why? The answer could be the particular model of XM radio you have takes too long to tune in a station (this I would think would be a defect in the particular radio or a design flaw if all radios of this model do the same thing), or there is some problem with the antenna. The latter would most likely affect how your normally receive XM stations and if you have no problem in the same location that you are having this issue, then this could be ruled out. Finally, maybe some problem exists with verifying your XM account that causes an extra delay when you first power it on. You might try re-registering with the XM service, or ask them to verify it is working properly (your account information is all correct). Omegaman