john denninger

Do you care what color the panels are?

Your problem seems clearly to be a bad ground. I had the same problem and there are prior posts about this. To fix, I added additional ground cables to the engine and to the body. and cleaned both ends of the existing ground cable. I can almost guarantee that this will fix your problems.

And how much did you put in after the change? 4 Qrts. What Eng do you have. What's with the 10W? And by the way; what's the total capacity of oil for your eng? The engine holds 5 quarts, so you were not low because you used it, but because you never had it.

Sure sounds like you need a starter to me. Those are the symptoms I remember when I put a new starter in.

I am sure your problem has to do with insufficient ground and that you can fix it by adding an additional ground cable(s). When my SC started doing this I ran an additional ground cable from the negative battery terminal to some bolt on the rear of the engine and to the firewall. Also clean both ends of the existing ground cable and I expect that you will be fine.

Well, you have many possibilities. All the a/c parts are pretty expensive if you have the dealer put them in. You might take it to either an indie mechanic or a dealer for diagnosis and go from there. As an example on my 92, a new evaporator is $640 from Lexus and $80 from an aftermarket source. Good luck, This summer I had the ac compressor with drier replaced on both my '92 and '93 SC300s and each ran about $900 at a reputable shop. The compressors each were over $400. One was leaking and the second was making a grinding, bearing sort of whining noise.

To replace the belt, first take a good look at the path of the belt. There should be a diagram on the under side of the hood or thereabouts to help you as well. When you are ready to proceed, take a wrench that fits on the bolt head on the tensioner on the upper driver's side just past the power steering and pull so that the belt becomes loose enough to take off the nearest pulley. Remove the old, install the new and, pulling on the tensioner again to allow putting the belt on the last pulley. Make sure the belt is all the way on all the pulleys before starting the engine.

Daniel, The aftermarket arms are upper arms. I am not aware of any aftermarket LCAs for SCs. Lexus and Toyota LCA arms are available at vastly different prices for the same arm. I happen to think the Supra bushings are harder than the Lexus but they are a direct replacement. The symptoms you are describing sound just like worn lower control arm bushings. If the bushings are the problem you should be able to see the wear. If you were to take the car for a front end alignment you wold learn if that is the problem as the car will not hold an alignment.

My thought is a bad ground. I would clean both ends of the ground cable and consider adding another.

I have been talking about a SC300 located in Tuscon and would like someone to take a look at it for me as I am in Houston. If there is someone who conveniently could do this, please call me at 713.468.0090. If you miss me, please leave a message so I can call back. Thanks, John Denninger

The quick fix is to replace the struts. Not hard to do and lasts for a long time. This is the sort of repair that is normal maintenance when you own an older car. If you do not fix these little problems as they come up, over time you will be driving junk. Just my opinion. What's wrong with the broomstick method? :D Until you replace them you can use locking pliars. Just open the hood and place them on the rod right at the strut. Test to make sure they won't slip. Those hoods are heavy and would leave a nasty dent in your head or wherever! Funny! EUBT has a smidge of backyard engineering in his background! Hey billy, isn't the backyard where we all invent whatever we need to get that thing fixed before the steak starts to burn on bbq because I thought I could get it finished in time but ran out of materials or couldn't figure exactly how to finish it but the answer is almost at my fingertips if I only stay with it and ..... what was it ... mmmm .... oh yeah .... completely forgot about the steak? :whistles: !Removed! happens, but like Carlin said, "there's many different kinds of !Removed!"

Rather than using one flare wrench and one vice grips, I would use two flare wrenches. You are correct in assuming how this comes apart, but it has been together for about sixteen years and is stubborn. In the end, if the wrenches slip, you may end up with two vice grips, but that would be the second resort. Good luck.

You should use a name brand DOT 4 brake fluid. Synthetic is fine; If you are flushing the fluid, you can save some time by sucking some out of the resevoir and filling it with the new fluid before you begin with the wheels.

Make sure your air filter is like new, keep proper air pressure in your tires, drive moderately and enjoy the car.

The conventional thinking was to start with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder and work towards the master cylinder. Subsequent discussion seems to conclude that it really does not make much difference as long as you bleed long enough to replace the fluid in what ever line you are bleeding.

When you rinsed with water, some of that water collected down with at least one spark plug, causing that plug (s) to miss. I did the same thing. You need to manually remove that water from the plug depressions in the top of the motor.

I think the most obvious problem would be bad battery connections. Clean both connections by removing them from the battery. If they do not look substantial, replace them. Brush and clean the connections and the terminals and install tightly. The heat you are noticing is from resistance which seems to be a telltale of a bad connection. John Denninger

You have to be careful on ebay. Some of the units advertised for a SC are cheap universal power antennas that do not match up. The wiring is completely different. Be sure you are getting the same unit that you are replacing or you will be disappointed. John Denninger

How much do you wanna pay for it? Shipping on something like that is probably around $15, it's not too big and not too heavy. If we agree on the price and get it paid for tomorrow I can most likely ship it out tomorrow or next day. Do you have paypal account? What's your zip code? My zipcode is 77055 and I do have a paypal account. If the shipping is about $15, I would like to pay about $35 for the trim piece. Let me know and you have my email address if you wish to communicate off forum. Thanks, John Denninger I am still interested in buying the piece of driver's door trim that surrounds the window. Please let me know if we have a deal. Thanks, John Denninger

How much do you wanna pay for it? Shipping on something like that is probably around $15, it's not too big and not too heavy. If we agree on the price and get it paid for tomorrow I can most likely ship it out tomorrow or next day. Do you have paypal account? What's your zip code? My zipcode is 77055 and I do have a paypal account. If the shipping is about $15, I would like to pay about $35 for the trim piece. Let me know and you have my email address if you wish to communicate off forum. Thanks, John Denninger

I am interested in buying the trim piece from the driver's door that surrounds the window on the inside of the door. Please let me know how we can do this. Thanks, John Denninger jrd@lconn.com

I just replaced the lower control arms with the Toyota parts which I bought from Carson Toyota in Carson California. Each lower arm was $218 and shipping was $40. I understand that they sell a boatload of them for Lexuses. Phone is 888.747.4777. Installation is basic, just mark the alignment settings on the cam adjustments,. or get the car aligned when you are done.