Ratatat

That is what I was looking for thanks. very nice sound, just what i was hoping for. I think I will do that same thing when i get to the big town next.

this is exactly what i want to know and hear

an update. when i recieved the caliper kit, they only had one close, so i got it overnite. So i figured i would get a start on the brakes. When i got home the kit had 4 external caliper seals and none of the internal seals, instead of 2 of each. Well i took my calpers apart. The internals looked to be in very good shape. I cleaned the caliper pistons and the caliper internals real good, installed the new external seals, did the same to the other side, and blead everything. The brakes are just dandy now. and i got away with only buying one kit.

ebay is a wealth of parts and reasonable prices. ie new wires $49, iridium IX plugs for a little $6 buck (i bought 16) and have bought suspension parts also, Ebay has been a great resource.

what is the sound level like? What is the performance gain? if you run true duals between the cats and mufflers eliminating the 3rd cat and resonator. Are the stock mufflers decent sounding?

See location ie: ND ~ North Dakota ~ meaning, me and the net shop together a lot.

here it is, 12mm x 1.50 thread, the lugs are same thread but 13/16th nuts size. My sc400 is same thread but 3/4 inch nut for the lug.

have to take off the covers, not too bad, but the passenger side you have to take off the MAF and the intake tube, not the intake plenum itself. Just to change plugs wont be as long, but i also changed wires, so i removed the loom and all, cleaned up the covers, cleaned up the loom the the wires go through, then had to weave the wires back in. It was not too difficult, just time consuming, about 5 hours later. (2 nites) Brakes: i bled the rears all was well, and got some new fluid in the line, when i went to the front (passenger) the rubber seal on one of the pistons, had torn and would not allow the piston to go back in, so it was hold pressure on the brake all the time. I ordered a rebuild kit for the pistons, they were $8 apiece at the local Napa, both should be here monday.

Which model or packaging do i need for the wifes '95 ES 300. The wheel lock is starting to get pretty beat up on the inside where it seats on the lugs themselves, so I would like to change it before it goes completely to hell. I guess I need the lug spec's. Thanks Tom

no abs lite on. but i plan on changing and bleeding off the old fluid.

LOL OMG!! not to shabby

i understand

amps are easy enough to find, i found one on ebay. There are cable adapters that let u plug into the factory harness, then wire in a different amp. Cant remember store name but search ebay, its there too. Crutchfield may also be of some help.

Dandelions

LOL I will agree with those steps

The amp is using only line out signal from the radio, it is not enough to even drive cheezy headsets.

Are those Sendra's and Kumho's? Because that looks like the same rim and tire tread on my SC400, except i am riding on 18's.

for disc brake service, item #1 is..............

This is right from Bendix's website, click on Tech Corner, and it is the item listed www.bendixbrakes.com The info here is copy and pasted right from the pdf which is; http://www.bendixbrakes.com/download/pdf/A...m-Brake-Job.pdf From the desk of Jay Buckley, Bendix Brakes Answerman A Good “Minimum” Brake Job In order to provide your customer with a good “minimum” brake job, refer to these simple guidelines: 1. Question your customer about problems with the vehicle and typical usage (driving conditions). 2. Road test the car (unless unable to be driven) and note problems. 3. Index the wheels to the hubs and remove wheels. 4. Perform complete brake inspection noting parts necessary; check rotors and drums for thickness and/or replacement. Disc Brake Service 1. Refinish rotor on or off the car: • Fast cut as necessary • Slow cut. • Polish to 50 micro inch or better using a NON-DIRECTIONAL finish 2. Clean the rotor with brake cleaner, and then wash with soap and hot water, making sure to dry with paper towels only. 3. Inspect/Replace and lubricate caliper mounting hardware with OE recommended lubricants. 4. Inspect, clean, polish and lubricate all caliper and pad sliding surfaces on the car and caliper. Use high temperature synthetic brake grease only. (Or OE recommended lubricant). 5. Loosen seized bleeder screws and clean them of dirt and debris. 6. Always open bleeder screw and place a hose on it to direct used fluid into a container while caliper piston is retracted. Never retract caliper piston with bleeder screw closed, this forces dirty fluid back into the ABS hydraulic unit and master cylinder. 7. Repack wheel bearings with the correct grease and install new seal. On front wheel drive vehicles; inspect hub for run out (run out should be .002 or less). Clean hub rotor mounting surface, paying careful attention to the area around wheel studs. 8. Inspect and clean/replace as needed-all shims, caliper hardware, clips, springs etc. 9. Install pads in the caliper. To prevent squeal, eliminate pad looseness by cinching pad to caliper (if applicable) and install anti-squeal shims or disc brake noise insulator liquid if shims are not called for. Always follow the OE procedure for installing pads. Install caliper assembly on car and use a torque wrench to tighten anchor bolts. Install the wheel and torque the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to OE specs. From the desk of Jay Buckley, Bendix Brakes Answerman Drum Brake Service 1. Remove drum and clean brake assembly using an OSHA approved method. Do not raise or inhale dust from brakes. 2. After removing old shoes and hardware, clean backing plate in all areas where shoe web contacts the backing plate. 3. Loosen seized bleeder screws and clean area on debris. 4. Rebuild or replace wheel cylinders. If not rebuilding or replacing, you must open the bleeder screw when installing new shoes and springs to prevent dirty brake fluid from contaminating the RABS valve on vehicles with rear wheel only ABS (RWAL) systems. 5. Replace all hardware and return springs. 6. Install new shoes. Lubricate the backing plate shoe contact points, parking brake arm pivot point, self-adjuster screw, upper or lower anchor pin. 7. Refinish brake drum. Fast cut as needed, slow cut. Clean drum with brake clean and then wash with soap and hot water, drying only with paper towels. 8. Pre-adjust shoes and re-install drums. Perform final adjustment. 9. Install wheels and torque lug nuts in a star pattern to OE specs. General Brake Service 1. Fill master cylinder with fresh clean brake fluid as specified by the vehicle manufacturer. 2. Bleed hydraulic system using the manufacturers recommended bleeding sequence. Flush system until clean fluid comes out all bleeder screws. This technique works well to maintain hydraulic system and ABS valves. 3. Re-check system for leaks. 4. Re-adjust rear brakes and check-adjust parking brake. 5. Re-check master cylinder level, being careful to not “top off” master cylinder. Fill to OE mark. 6. Gently road test the car. If all is “okay,” break-in the pads and shoes using the correct burnish procedure. This procedure is usually found in the owner’s manual of the vehicle. It is your responsibility to explain this procedure to your customer to ensure long life of the brake job as well as your customer’s satisfaction. PS. You laugh about muffler bearings, hell I would have laughed at 'Engine Fan Fluid', till I bought a Lexus.

resurface, resurface, resurface. ok did that come through. You guarantee that your new pads and rotors mate 100% contact. This is really a no brainer, its called SAFETY!!!!!!

changed out the plugs and wires. I used Iridium IX's and autolite wires. a few hours later, a very noticeable change, more of a positive change than any plug or wire change out on any vehicle i have done. it was worth. when i took the gal out for a test drive, the front brakes got very hot, very!! when i got home, a little smoke come rolling out one wheel, i popped the hood, and found one of the small vacuum lines near the MAF, but on top of the plenum was off, it looks like it ran down the passenger side of the engine to a switch or sensor. Would this one have anything to do with the ABS? Thanks Tom

havent had time to really attack car till now, it is in the garage (mine). I am going to replace plugs wires, and hopefully the caps and rotors. When i went to move the car, problem gone, nothing like a few days in 90+ degree weather to dry things out.

this stuff was purple.

oh oh, might have to think about changing plugs and wires.

how do i pull codes?