Lethal_Threat

I think i speak for us all when i say its a relief to hear that it was just a faulty install dealing with your spark plug wires and not an overheat failure. I'm overjoyed to hear that your pride and joy is up and purring away again! Treat her good buddy, she'll do you right lol. Thanks for the mention bro, i've only just begun with project LETHAL Threat ;)

When my motor is cold and i start it, i get a nice even whistle from the engine area, as the engine warms up to normal operating temps it stops. I am fearing an exhaust leak seemingly between where the primary cats meet my exhaust system. Hopefully just needs an exhaust gasket? Any opinions, hadnt had a chance to put it on a lift while running to inspect.

So, assuming i wanted to block the EGR and put in a resistor to keep the computer from throwing a code with one of those available kits, what is involved. I know you remove the modules all together, cap off the vacuum lines, but can the pipes to the back of the heads be easily gotten to and removed? An in depth explanation on their removal for a 1UZ-FE would be nice.

No, not a brand new engine, the damage is already done, even polishing the heads and changing the gaskets wont fix the detriment to the engine from overheating. For the engine to literally be like new you would have to rebuild the rotating assembly; e.i. crankshaft, pistons, conrods, all bearings, valves/seals, so on so forth. The work your getting done wont give you a new engine, but one that works. Don't go into it thinking it will run better than before, it might, but its unlikely. While he is tearing it apart, it would be wise to change the idler pulley bearings, water pump, thermostat, and do an ignition overhaul, plugs, wires, caps, rotors.

Could be cold pads releasing from cold rotors chirping, a squeaky joint in the throw of the pedal, or even the master cylinder being noisy. Since it only occurs at reverse like that (heard mine do it as well) Its probably the first of the three. Especially with my ceramic pads they tend to chirp on release when cold. Not uncommon at all.

Shoot me a pm or call me if you need parts, or to find out if i can get them to you cheaper, goodluck with it buddy. 985-xxx-xxxx(modified by Moderator)

I feel for you buddy, but honestly it would be easier on your pocketbook if you found a parts car with a motor in good condition, brought the new motor/trans to a reliable private mechanic and have the motor swapped out. Even just fixing the engine in that SC4 would still make it more reliable/cheaper than any other vehicle you would trade it for. Find yourself a private mechanic used to dealing with the motors in the Toyota Tundras and he could easily deal with the motor in your car. Surely dont go through lexus for parts, search them out through outside dealers. If you cant find them at a good price i will get them for you at cost. The only reason i would do that is because you obviously love your car, i want to be able to help you get back behind that wheel. In the end if you can fix your car, you'll keep another SC4 from hitting the graveyard, and that is worth every last bit of the trouble its gonna take to get it running again. -Julian

Simple bolt on, and also a common failure im told. These are held in stock by most lexus dealers and it also cross-references to a toyota number

Someone corr

Someone correct me if i'm wrong, but i believe that's the oil pressure sensor, depending on how its leaking, it should be replaced. From the description its not just a seal, but a failure of the part sensor itself. Goodluck with it.

It sounds mostly like your tranny fluid level is just too low, or the fluid isnt gettting where it needs to, so either fluid level or the pickup screen is plugged.

The ASE thing is a joke b/w me and some of my friends on the Buick board. We're all a little nuts. I would hope there wouldn't be a problem in snapping bolts with these cars, but I have seen stranger things happen. Lemme try to explain better. I have exploded diagram captured from the manual. Youcan see the torque plate and the caliper. Being in the parts business, you should recognize this. It's for the rear. The front is similiar. Thanks buddy, the diagram is a massive help, i live off of those things in our F.A.S.T. system for finding parts. It'll be alot of help!

You're welcome for the help. You're question happens not to be diffucult. I just got my manual on disk and have it here. If you're going to torque the components back together, this is what my book says (guessin my book is the right one): Front torque plate (armature that the caliper bolts to) - 87ftlb Front caliper to torque plate - 25ftlb Rear torque plate (armature...) - 77ftlb Reat caliper to torque plate - 25ftlb Personally, I have never torqued any calipers or armatures back on the vehicles I have worked on with an actual torque wrench (although I do have one). I put them back on as tight as I can get them by hand with a typical socket wrench (usually a 3/8' but sometimes a 1/2"), and then either put a pipe on the end of the wrench and give it a little more or wack the wrench once or twice with my dead blow hammer (no pipe). Sounds rediculous, but it works. I've been doing this for many years now and haven't had a problem. Even so, I won't fault anyone for proper torquing. HTH Z Thank you buddy, which one of those descriptions is for torquing the caliper halves? The description is kind of confusing when saying Torque plate and Armature. I have never used a torque wrench before either, but sh*t for these cars arent cheap, and i dont want to take the risk of snapping anything, lol. From your description you have inspired me to put my ASE certs. What really sucks is that i cant pull any of this info up on the databases at work, even though its all Toyota parts, i cant see any of it.

Wonderful SC3 man, awesome custom work. Do you still have the OEM front lip, is it in good condition, and are you willing to sell it? Mine has been cracked since i bought my SC4.

Don't question it. Get a second. It's cheaper/easier/more convenient to have it on hand than to try and run back to the store for another. If you don't need it, you will have it for later, or you can return it next time you are there. alrighty, im past that part, it holds just over a quart, dead empty. Thankyou for your help zeus87gn. Now a bit more difficult one, lol. I've got some ceramic pads, drilled slotted and vented rotors that just came in, but before i go breaking those caliper bolts loose, does any know what to torque the front and back caliper bolts back to once put back together? :chairshot:

You should use a name brand DOT 4 brake fluid. Synthetic is fine; If you are flushing the fluid, you can save some time by sucking some out of the resevoir and filling it with the new fluid before you begin with the wheels. How much does the system hold, will 1quart be enough? anyone know?

You should use a name brand DOT 4 brake fluid. Synthetic is fine; If you are flushing the fluid, you can save some time by sucking some out of the resevoir and filling it with the new fluid before you begin with the wheels. How much does the system hold, will 1quart be enough?

?? flushing my system tom. guys, anyone know?