EPIX INC

take a test light and see if u even get power to the pump when cranking or key on. if not, the problem could lie with the fuel pump ecu located is panel directly behind drivers seat under the window. just bypass ity by attaching the two thicker gauge wires together from the harness going into the fuel pump ecu/

yup thats all u gotta do.

next time one or the other acts up, smack the side of the dash right above the right side of the cluster... see if that makes it work... if so, then what it is, is the metal screws on the back of the cluster. remove the cluster with ignition off, and take a soldering iron to the 5 screws on both sides. they have metal seats under the screws very common problem. just put a drop or two of solder between the screw and the seat. then u should be good.

okay the thing u removed was the fuel level sending unit... u put it in and rotate it till it drops in flat. then bolt her down. the electrical is easy..... just cut the wire off the one u replaced it with, and splice it in.... or just cut the wires and use some regular connectors to splice into the wires .... let me know if u need any more help with the car. i am very knowledgable about them.

okay heres how u do it. first lift up on the front of the back seat butt part. it will pop up. remove the lower part from the car. then look at the base of the backrest part of the seat thats remaining... on the far left, far right and just left of center if u are looking at it and u will see three bolts. remove them then lift up on the seat. it will come loose from its hooks. slide the seatbelts around the seatback and remove it from the car. you should see a 6inch circle right behind some sound deadening material. remove the circle and you should see the top part of the fuel tank. remove screws attaching cover to the tank. VOILA fuel pump! oh and to remove the tank you take it out the trunk not underneath the car. any questions, just PM me. thanks.

i am in hawaii as well and would be happy to take a look at it see whats going on. where in Hawaii are you? i am in Red hill. PM me so we can talk.

okay check your belt and make sure its not ripped in any places, then remove the plastic covers that go over the dist caps and watch the belt as it turns while the car is running. or just rotate the motor by hand and inspect the belt. i am reffering to the timing belt. if u see nothing that could be causing that, then take a stethoscope and track down the location of the sound while the car is running. that will allow u to narrow it down. to me it sounds like u might have something caught up in the crankcase or in the torque converter. either of which could cause serious issues if left untreated.

I just had a mechanic come by my house and the weird this is he said that my ECU isn't throwing any codes. He also informed me that me car had a wire that hooks up to my headlight fuse, straigth to my fuel pump. I think I have to replace my ECU and MAF. Do you guys have any other idea on what the problem could be? Find out why somebody hot wired the fuel pump. Bad Fuel Pump ECU being bypassed? Cheap fix could also be constantly feeding power back into Fuel Pump ECU and Engine Control Module with unknown and unpredictable results. Try to solve one problem at a time, the right way, before moving on to next problem. That is a good idea. The fuel pump only works not if my headlights are turned on. When I turn them off it cuts the power. I think the fuel pump ecu is another problem too. The main reason for all of the questions is I'm trying to make what ti last until July. Then I'm doing the complete 1JZ-gte swap. Let me look futher into the problem and actually take time to think about it rather than jumping the gun./ Thanks for the info. okay like he said above solve one problem at a time, it might fix the other issues. the lexus is a very complex beast and two things that u would think have nothing to do with each other seem to coincide. first and foremost. disconnect that fuel pump wire from the headlamp fuse. then check the connections at the pump itself. if its plugged in, go to the fuel pump ECU located in the arm rest panel on the driver's side in the back seat. make sure the ecu is plugged in. small silver box with fins on it. attempt to start the car. if u get a no start, disconnect the fuel pump ecu and take the two larger gauge wires from the harness and plug them into each other. attempt to start the car. this bypasses the ECU the proper way. it also ensures u have constant power with the vehicle in run mode, and the proper amperage and voltage. if u get a no start that way, check to make sure ur fuel pump fuse is still intact. after that ur car should be running. then check ur other issues. private message me if u need more help.

okay does it make this noise only when its moving? or if u put it in park and rev the engine do u hear it?? that makes all the difference!

okay to do the headlights, turn ur wheel one direction and remove the two or three screws in the fender well cover, and then reach in and u will find two ten millimeter nuts. remove those, then remove the top ten mm bolt on top of the headlight assembly. then remove all three wires from the headlight. it takes a little work the first time, but just keep moving it back and forth and ur headlamp will come right out. to get to the turnlamps down below, just remove the two screws on the lower side of the fender well cover and reach in and u will find the wire harness attached to the turning lamp. then just take the power wire(find out by using a voltmeter on the wires to determine which one is hot when the turn lights are on) and run it to the hot wire in the headlamps. Voila u now have fog lights...sorta

its a wire in the door its blue, open the door and cut away the rubber thing surrounding all the wires. u should find a broken wire. splice it back to the other broken part and that should solve your issue. same thing happend to me. easy fix. then just electric tape the rubber thing back together and no more issues.

its a wire in the door its blue, open the door and cut away the rubber thing surrounding all the wires. u should find a broken wire. splice it back to the other broken part and that should solve your issue. same thing happend to me. easy fix. then just electric tape the rubber thing back together and no more issues.

here on this picture are a bunch of circles. remove all the screws shown and there are some u cant see on this picture, u also have to remove the air pipes from the throttle body down to the MAF meter. its a very involved task. i will try to take some pix of the motor tomorrow showing what needs to be removed.

unfortunately i do not have any ideas about the remote entry issues. my key was broken when i got it and the button never worked... so i just installed an aftermarket alarm/remote starter. works like a champ locks and unlocks, pops the trunk, turns the car on at the press of a button, and its integrated in with the factory alarm so the lights and horn go with the siren in Panic mode. u might find assistance with that over at Clublexus.com lots of info there..... i just did my tune up today. wish i had taken pictures in the process. would have been helpful with the tutorial. I will be doing a friend of mines SC4 sometime this weekend, so i will get pix of his while i do it.

okay for starters, yes the TC will probably cause your Trans to wear out a LOT quicker than normal, also, the exhaust is definitely a good idea. my plan is to remove or gut the cats, then install a flowmaster exhaust with some nice mufflers. give my car a little of that V8 sound we love so much... maybe it will drown out them annoying valve taps!!! the intake is kind of a joke though!! you can buy a MAF adapter for 15 bucks from Auto Zone or Checkers, then put a 3" cone filter on it to produce the same setup. i cannot see paying 250 bucks for an adapter and filter. at the most i would spend probably 80 bucks.... 60 for the filter, and 20 for the adapter. in all honesty, i would just run piping from the MAF down into the front grill and install the cone down there.

did u try the shift lock release button located on the shifter bezel?? try that... and as he said above, when u depress the brake pedal, you should hear a CLICK.... that is the shift lock release engaging.

very common problem. if u open the door, and cut away the rubber boot that all the wires are inside of, u should find a pink or a blue wire ripped.... just get a short piece of wire and connect it in, and VOILA! it works again..... just check all the wires when u remove the rubber boot.

its a 92 SC 400 paid 300 dollars for it got it from a guy on Craigslist. the guy said it was a bad FUEL PUMP RELAY. did my research and found no relay,.... came to the conclusion that it is the FUEL PUMP ECU so instead of paying the 400 to fix it, i just ran a wire from the pump to a wire that was hot when the ignition was turned on... the guy's face dropped when i started it!!! he kept asking me when the tow truck was coming!!! anyways. it has a few issues. one: the gauge cluster dont work for nothing. speedo and tach non functional! needles dont light up at all. i am considering sending it to Lextech, but would like to see if it is repairable from my end. Radio didnt work at all when i got it, kept popping 20 A fuses when they were plugged in. did slow diagnostics found out their was a short in the amp.... so i just pulled the whole system: amp, changer, and radio. Climate control LCD is messed up, only shows top half and the LED only lights up the right side. ALSO, the steering rack to crossmember bushing is shot! so everytime i get up to what i guess is 40 mph, it shakes like hell! also, i think the struts are shot... feel every bump in the front left real bad. think the trans might need some work too... got the O/D off light flashing... sometimes it wont shift to overdrive , sometimes it wont downshift under hard acceleration. probably needs new motor mounts because it clunks when u shift from P to D or R. air bag light needs to be reset due to disconnection of cluster with key on. dont think the ECT/Power switch works.... no change in driving when on. ABS light comes on sometimes and stays on for a while. any assistance with these issues, please PM ME I am military, and a mechanic by trade.

okay i got a question on that!!! i have a 92SC and it has the fog lights in the bottom of the front lip... however, i have no switch on my turn signal arm that shows anything about a fog light... there is a chance that this car did not originally have fog lights... in which case their would not be a switch... OR the combo switch might not be the original... how do i find out? SEE THAT WAS A QUESTION LOL

okay i bought a steal of a car today. It is a 1992 SC400 the owner had claimed that the FUEL PUMP RELAY went out. well i am a mechanic and did my research.... found no Fuel pump relay in the Haynes manual, only an EFI Relay...so i ran all my tests and was getting no power to the fuel pump with key on.... so i hotwired the pump to a wire that was only hot when the car was on. now it runs! it sounds a little funny, but nothing serious as far as i can tell. i dont really have a comparison as i dont know what the V8 engines usually sound like..... well took it for a drive, and get a horrible vibration and shaking from the front left wheel.... figured it may be a bad ball joint or bad struts... not really sure yet... the PO put wheel locks on the car and i gotta figure out a way to get them removed..... but back to the situation at hand.... anyone know what would cause the fuel pump to not get power? there are a few other minor issues... the Air Bag light stays on at all times, the O/D off light flashes when the vehicle gets above 20 mph, the tach and speedo do not work at all.... the needles on the gauge cluster dont light up... dont know if the POWER/ECT switch works... noticed no difference in the performance when the button is pressed. also, when driving, if u floor it, the car does not automatically down shift to increase power, it stays in the same gear that it was in... cant get it to down shift.... feels like its always in third or fourth... unless of course i switch it manually with the shift lever... then there is plenty of power.... if there is anyone on OAHU who knows a lot about these cars, and would be willing to give me their expert opinion, i can bring the car to you and pay you for your time and advice. Oh DID I MENTION WHAT I PAID FOR THE CAR? 300dollars.... YES THREE HUNDRED DOLLARS!!! think i got my money's worth?Oh yeah a few other things, One: the radio doesnt work... when the fuse is plugged in, it pops it almost instantly.... so i never got it to turn on... two, the HVAC controls are funny... the little screen that shows whats going on seems to be destroyed... it only shows like half of the top half of the screen, so i dont know whats going on with that... short of replacing the whole unit, i dont know how to fix that... ANY IDEAS ON THE RADIO?? would really like to get that part working... nothing like driving down the road with NO SOUNDS!!!