rxr300houston

Hi, I have seen some great comments on how to install a universal door lock actuator. I took of my LR door panel today to see and get a feel of what needs to be done. The messages mention a 2 wire installation. My question: The origonal actuator has 4 wires, what are the additional two wires for? If I use the two wire universal actuator, will the lock/unlock switch still function from the drivers door? What functions will be lost if I go to the two wire type? Thank you, MBP

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I thought I would write a solution that worked for me. This relates to codes P1354 and P1349, related codes and symptoms. Code P1354 VVI Malfunction Bank 2. Bank 2 is closest to the radiator. Often called the left side. Resulting codes: Code: P0300 - Multiple random misfires Codes: P0302, P0304. P0306 - Cylinder misfire in cylinders 2, 4 and 6. Possible code also- Code: 1153 - AF/ sensor bank 2 sensor 1 OR Code P1349 VVI Malfunction Bank 1. Bank 1 the difficult side where the intake body is. Often called the right side. Code: P0300 - Multiple random misfires Codes: P0301, P0303. P0305 - Cylinder misfire in cylinders 1, 3 and 5. Code for A/F sensor as well. Driving symptoms: The check engine light may come on periodically and go off after some driving. You may attribute it to a poorly closed gas cap ( may be the problem). You may not notice any significant performance issues. At some point the idle may get rough due to the misfire, it may idle well when cold and become rough when warm. Ignore it and there may be a fish bite (jerk) at multiple speeds and revs. You may drive at a constant speed and the car cuts back and then revs up. The brakes seem to become hard as well since insufficiently vacuum is created at idle. Solution: The code print out from from the ECM will suggest checking electrical connections, sludge etc. The first thing is to panic, and think the coils may be the problem. If you car was running OK highly unlikely all three coils on one bank will suddenly develop go bad simultaneously. The code print out from from the ECM will suggest checking electrical connections, sludge etc. If it is sludge that is causing the OCV to stick, then you have a bigger problem to address. Remove the valve covers to see if there is sludge. You are luck if the electrical connections are a loose. More then likely, it is the Oil Control Valve (OCV). Being VVT, the intake valves stroke is determined by engine RPM and load through the ECM and sensors. This in turn regulates the OCV allowing more or less oil through to control the intake valve stroke. Replacing the OCV is an easy task. Start with taking of the plastic engine cover. I have attached some pictures. To remove the OCV, remove any obstructing pipes if you have to (I did not). Remove the electrical connector and 10mm head bolt. Rotate it to break the O ring seal pull it out. You may need a flat end screwdriver to pry it under from underneath the flange. Replace with a new one. Be careful not to mix the left and right sides. The one in the picture is bank 2, left. This may not be the solution for everyone but it worked. The OCV from the dealer is about $100 and 10 minutes to install. If you are close to http://www.twsparts.com/ they sell genuine Lexus parts ($80). http://www.parkplacetexas.com/DealershipHo...?DealershipID=5 has them online cheaper but you have to pay shipping. Hope this helps some out there. Maistran.

Your fault code is for bank 1, unlikely all 3 coils go bad at the same time. It is the oil control valve. Very easy to get at, will take 10 minutes. I had the problem with bank2. Cost me $80, the car runs fine.

Update, I think I solved my problem. It was the oil control valve on bank 2. Cost of the CV was $80, too less then 10 minutes. One of the easiest tasks but requires some thinking/troubleshooting. When I get a chance this weekend, I will write a more detailed analysis is a separate Thread. Cheers Maistran.

Does any one have the steps to remove/check the OCV? Pictures will help me as well.

Hello, I am having the same problem and symptoms but is with bank 2, cylinders 2, 4, 6. Can someone expand on the issue of sludge build up? I do not have sludge when looking into the filler cap, I change my oil every 3000 Miles. Let me know what you mechanic finds out. Thanks.

Hi All, I seem to have a misfire and some erratic behavior. The CEL light is on as well. My car is a 99 RX300, 120K miles. Code: 1153 - AF/ sensor bank 2 sensor 1 Code: 1354 - VVI Malfunction Bank 2 Code: P0300 - Multiple random misfires Codes: P0302, P0304. P0306 - Cylinder misfire in cylinders 2, 4 and 6. Seems like everything points to bank 2. Before checking the codes, the CEL was erratic, comes on for a while, goes off for a while. The car misfires at idle an sounds erratic when idling. Yesterday I removed the idle control valve and cleaned it, it was a little stuck. Since I had the throttle body out, I replaced the plugs with NGK, only ones I could get. The car started without any problem, slight higher then normal RPM. I took it for a drive, about 10 miles, I felt a jerk, the CEL came on and I could here a misfire when I stopped at the lights. Took it to AZ and read the codes today, listed above When cold, there seems to be no misfire, the idle is smooth. Now when I drive it, it runs ok then cuts back at various rpms and is OK for a mile or less. Kind of jerky behavior. The CEL and trac off light is on. I also feel the brake pedal a little hard like it is not getting sufficient vacuum. Is it possible the AF sensor is so bad that it is messing with the fuel to the cylinders? Since all the problem is on bank 2. I replaced the AF sensor at the rear end, the one between the manifold and fire wall about 15K ago when the CEL came on. Except for the CEL the last time there was noticeable difference. Any advice will be appreciated. Thanks Maistran.