RedRocket

I don't think there is any question as to whether Mobil and Amsoil synthetics are better than regular motor oil. All the specs show that synthetics are better. The key question is, as you point out, "Are they worth it?" I think of it as a treat for the car and nothing more. I do the fluid changes myself and only buy Mobil 1 on sale plus I joined the Mobil rebate club to help narrow the cost difference. glenmore 1990 LS400 1991 300CE 2000 C280 As one who has taken the science approach to the oil (synthetic/petro) question. On my 99 SC400, I ran a series of tests with Mobil 1, Amsoil and Castrol GTX. After each run, I drained the oil and had it analyzed by a lab in Oakland , CA. Castrol GTX is BAD after 5000 miles, thus 3000 would not be a bad change interval. Mobil 1 could run for 10K miles and still be considered serviceable but with a low level of additives. Amsoil could be run for the same 10K miles but had a higher level of additives remaining. Both synths had a TBN (total base number) indicating serviceable oil. Both synths had lower metal particle counts than the Castrol. My engine had very balanced compression (+/- 2 PSI) on all eight cylinders and burned no appreciable oil for all these tests and it's life. Here is my conclusion. Synthetics pay off for long drain cycles (10K miles). The Amsoil method of changing the filter and adding a quart maintains the anti-wear additives BUT if there is a problem, like fuel / coolant dilution, the problem is compounded by not doing a complete drain. I run a pure synth of wide viscosity range (10-50) and do a complete change on 10K miles PLUS use a very good filter (not FRAM).

Hi JD where did you find the SS brake hoses?? I need them for my 99 SC400. Thx. RedrocketGEM@aol.com

:cries: Where does one find a DOT approved set of SS brake hoses?? I would REALLY like hoses that have a outer coating also so no braid shows. I have tried Technafit and Earls but cannot find a ready made set with an outer jacket. Thx

:) THANKS I will give it a look.

I have searched the forums and stuckout on trying to find a new set for trunk lifts for my car. I can find them for 91-96 or w/o spoiler. BUT NO aftermarket for a 99 with spoiler. Contacted Lexus and they confirmed these lifts are different between 96 & 97. I tried Rock Auto and Lift Supports.com among others. Any other ideas anyone???i Lexus price is $123 each.

My 99 SC400 has two temp.sensors I would like to know the location of. Where is the sensor for the outside air temp. that reads out on the dashboard?? Secondly, where is the inside temp sensor that controls the inside climate control? HAPPY NEW YEAR ALL Thx :)

:D Thanks guys. I will check the ball joints, & springs. Replacing the front pads is the next item on my list along with installng SS hoses and flushing the system.

My SC goes CLUNK when ever I step on the brakes going in reverse then goes CLUNK again when going forward. This only occurs the first time I hit the brakes after a direction change (forward/reverse). In prior forms there was a discussion about the pads moving in the calipers when going in a different direction. Does anyone know of clips/springs that stop tyhis annoying sound. My friends Camry uses small springs to push the pads one way and stops the sound. Thx

The code is an OBDII code for a DTC (diagnostic trouble code) Use Dogpile or Google (if you must) to get a OBDII code reference. OBDII stands for OnBoard Diagnostics version 2. Good luck. I don't believe the horn is related to the airbag but checking ALL the fuses always helps.

I would agree my '99 will play either CDR or CR-RW.. HOWEVER, the CD label is ANOTHER matter. You may use a paper adhesive label ONLY on disc withOUT a writing surface. If your CD's have a writable surface then use a Sharpie. The writable surface is textured to allow writing BUT that means the label will not stick as well. In a place where the CD may get warm the labels can come off very soon and that's LETHAL to players. Regards

:( does anyone know what he drive cycle is for a 99 SC400. My "Check Engine " light came on because of a loose gas cap. What do I have to do, beside hooking up a OBD computer, to clear the DTC and the lighyt. Thx <_<

I got the (99 SC400) owners manuals FREE directly from Lexus Customer Service when I registered the car with them. Also by registering, the dealers can cut a key from the code book or from Newell in Texas via Internet or phone. The service manuals are best found on Ebay. BEWARE, there are lots of auctions for manuals on CD which are NOT Lexus/Toyota real manuals. For my 99 there are 3 total books. :o

been using amsoil for years and it works. I am doing longer drains also. But do a search since I have posted on this product may many times. I know many people that are doing well over 20K drains and the oil tests fine! But as of 11-1-2005. The new oil filters (eA) are good for 25K miles or 1-years. The old SDF filters were 6 months or 12K miles; but many go longer on the SDF and they are fine. The SDF oil filters will not be around much longer since they stopped making them. All new filters will be the 25K ones once the sdf oil filters run out. The trick with any long drain interval oils is the replacment fo the additives. Most syn. oils will go 50 K miles IF you could replace the additives. The base oil stock is very long lasting. The PROPER way to do long drain is to use the Amsoil oil analysis service. It's about $30-$40 for an analysis. Mine is in Oakland, CA and great with questions. I learned over the years that I can easily go 10K on Mobile 1 w/o a filter change, and 25K on Amsoil with filter change. HOWEVER, the cost of Amsoil is greater. So I use Mobile 1 (red cap only: gotten on sale) and loose 10K change interval along with a WIX filter. But again the real answer is oil analysis. Regards

Look up doing a timing belt. Both are frequently done together at the belt change time.

Are you sure the brakes are different between the 300 & 400??? I have am considering keeping the stock calipers and going to SS braided brake hoses. ANY OPINIONS/IDEAS

<_< Hey Tom, As long as your looking at this find the "shift release button". i will enable you take you car out of park when the battery goes dead!!! My SC400 has a VERY EXPESSIVE cover over it so don't lose it. i am assumig you have the factory owners manuals. If not, call Lexus Custome Care, the manual are free when you register. PS I am 55 and love my SC

Thanks. I've emailed Interstate to get the exact model I need. LexuDon ← If your SC has a thermal cover you may have a problem with tabs on some batteries. Good luck

You should get an OBDII code reader. They are under $100 for the real cheapies but they are still a handy device. It is possible the lower grade of gas caused the MALF light to set, if that's the case it will reset itself. I run 89 octane in my 99 SC400 but don't get on it hard. For mountain driving/hard accel go to the 92. :D

ABSOLUTELY agree!!!! Get the factory manual in paper. They are available on eBay also. Make sure the year matches your <_< car too.

The two weak points seem to be the starter and the water pump. I just replaced my starter @ 76000 on my 99 SC400. The water pump and some seal are candidates for replacment @ 90K when you change the timing belt (very expensive job). I would say look at as many SC400 models you can find to get acquinted with them. look for any paint disfigurment around the battery. Make sure you have both upper and lower engine covers (big black sheets) Get the service records !!! If the seller doesn't have the records find out WHY !!! Get a CARFAX report on the VIN before you buy it ($30 peace of mind). Look at the dash gauges for lighting intensity uniformity, i.e. the D light on my 99 is dimmer than the reset of the gear indicators. Check the quality of the LCD panel on the AC/heater. Does it have factory floor mats of after-market types. Are the mat retainer hooks there?? That's enough to confuse you for now. Glen

Lexus makes a demi-bra, hood only) or a full sized nose bra. Order it from Sewell. For the later model only Lexus makes a custom fit one that I found. the demi-bra is easy, but allow a couple of hours for the full size install. The full one requires the replacment of a couple of screws that is easiest done with the front wheel removed. <_< Glen :D

IF you REALLY want a definite answer. Get your oil analyzed. My stock change interval is 7500 miles. Oil spectrographic analysis tell me I COULD go more than 10K. that conclusion took many trials. I use Mobil 1 (red cap) or Amsoil. Oil testing runs about $40. Compare a 7K-10K cost for synthetic and a 3K change interval for dino oil. Also the oil analysis can tell you about othere stuff, like leaky head gaskets,leaky fuel pumps, misfiring plugs etc. The performance of synthetics at temperature extremes is unrivaled. Regards

Thanks all !!! :D

Lexus has admitted that the rear brakes click when applied . This is due to the end retainer springs not being there (by design). Like Dom said just clicking UPON application is probably no big deal, assuming there are no other symptoms. A look into the end clips would tell the story. Don't remove the individual pads unless you really like fighting with the spreader spring. :(

Quite reasonal statement but it is not impossible to mess up the timing afterward. Be sure to check the camshafts and crankshaft timing marks before and after the replacement. If they are off marks, you will be in for a rude awakening. ← Thanks Shadow, However, I am not making myself clear. I want to just remove the tensior from below. I will not be able to see any timing marks or anything else. The engine is fully assembled. There is some mysterious leak that keeps getting parts of the underside rusty. I was wondering about the water pump. I DID remove the RH cover and the timing belt is clean and dry. I just wanted to see a lower point in the timing belt cavity for inspection. Since the tensioner is rusty, I was curious if it was getting moisture from some where.