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tbear2

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Everything posted by tbear2

  1. RhoXS, Given that the map updates when stationary on a ferry what is the next step to temporarily remove speed pulses? Switch in a capacitor to ground, etc.? By the way someone has created a solution for the toyota gps, (http://www.pinemountainfirearms.com/pmf/tundramods/NavSpeedPulse.aspx) but it seems way too complicated. I think you are on to a much more elegant solution path.
  2. The Lexus factory manuals are available on-line from Toyota, I have used them, they are great. You can sign up for just one day for about $10 if you want and if you have time and a broadband connection, download all the PDF's (there are hundreds). Do a google search for Toyota Technical Information System.
  3. I have the tow hitch and added 2, PIAA 50w backup lights (they come as a kit with the relay and wiring). I chose not to include a on/off switch in the circuit. With the dark window tint and my old eyes, it's much better, but not wonderful. Remember not to add any additional load to the current backup light circuit, just use that power to trip a relay. I tapped into the rear 12 volt outlet circuit for power that will go to the lights via the relay; going directly to the front fuse box for the 12v power to the relay is technically better, but I didn't want to rip up even more of my new luxury car. The dissembling to gain access to the wiring took a long time, the wire insulation is thin and tough and several wires in the harness have the same color. I ended up using a probe on my voltmeter which has a very fine pin to validate I had the right wire before I added the wire taps. I hate wire taps, but could find no easy way around them, the connectors for the circuits are near the amp for the sound system, and I was concerned about damaging the interior just to get to them. Instead, I accessed the harness in the rearmost hatch cavity, on the floor, below the 12 volt outlet, near the trailer htich connection. I fed the wires through the hitch wiring grommet. The wiring harness and circuit information as well as some interior panel disassembly can be easily downloaded from the toyota/lexus online-manual site. In a hour or 2 you can download tons of PDF files to save on your pc. It only costs about $10 for one day of access. I have the lights attached to the round tubing of the hitch using stainless steel hose clamps. I put black rubber under the light bracket and hose clamps to prevent damage to the hitch paint. Not elegant, but functional. I aimed them a bit above horizontal so I could see poles, signs, etc that the rear camera does not make obvious. I sent Lexus a note that the weak BU lights were a safety hazard, but never heard anything from them. I also posted the issue on the DOT vehicle safety site, you might want to do the same.
  4. The 4 tires and wheels were in the rear compartment, not on the car. I was taking them home to swap them for the summer tires/wheels. They are fairly heavy and did lower the rear of the RX noticeably. By the way I am disappointed in the snow traction and skid control of the RX compared to my previous vehicle an Audi A6. With similar tires the Audi was significantly more capable than the RX. I didn't expect good handling from the RX, but I did think it would perform better in the snow. If I had not had the prior experience of the A6 I might have thought that this is as good as AWD gets. The viscous clutch and electronic controls are not as well engineered as I expected. Oh well, at least it is much more reliable.
  5. GDixon, The method I posted for adjusting the headlights is from the service manual. I've included the same text as my last post and added 2 diagrams showing the correct adjustment screws. Remember the 3 min maximum rule for covering a HID light from my previous post. You don't want you plastic headlight lens to melt. If you adjust the lights under the car as you suggest, I don't know the advantages or disadvantages. It might change the geometry, making the headlight adjustment more or less sensitive to a heavy load in the rear of the car. I just brought home 4 snow tires on wheels last week and noticed that with that heavy weight in the rear the lights became adjusted too low! I'm going back to the dealer to see if the self leveling can be corrected. I assume they will do that by adjusting the device you described and then bringing the lights back to spec with the screws behind the headlights. Thank you for explaining how to add an attachment. RX350_He...djusment. RX350_Headlight_Adjusment.PDF
  6. Here is the procedure. Do not adjust the arm under the car How do I upload the diagram? for HID headlight (1) Adjust the aim vertically: Adjust the aim of each headlight to the specified range by turning aiming screw A with a screwdriver. NOTICE: • The high-beam light aim moves in the vertical direction and the low-beam light aim moves in the diagonal direction when aiming screw A is turned. Remember the turning direction and the number of turns of aiming screw A to correct the horizontal position of the lowbeam in the next step. The final turn of the aiming screw should be made in the clockwise direction. If the screw is tightened excessively, loosen it and then retighten it, so that the final turn of the screw is in the clockwise direction. (2) Turn aiming screw B the same number of turns and in the same direction as aiming screw A. NOTICE: The final turn of the aiming screw should be made in the clockwise direction. If the screw is tightened excessively, loosen it and then retighten it, so that the final turn of the screw is in the clockwise direction. HINT: • Since the low-beam light and the high- beam light on each side have separate reflectors, it is necessary to check and adjust the aim separately for both. • If it is not possible to correctly adjust headlight aim, check bulb, headlight unit, and headlight unit reflector installation. Do not cover the other headlight more than 3 mins or the plastic lens may start to melt!
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