pauljcl

Dealer? Under warranty?

I have driven the ML (including the latest model)and I found that the car felt very 'tough' (strongly built) but generally uncomfortable. On entering the driver's seat, I would often bump my head. The seats were hard. Many of the controls were not 'intuitive' (but one gets used to them). IMHO, a new (model) ML is an improvement over the RX300 but not over the RX350.

I agree with the answers given in the post above. However,our engine may be covered for sludge under the Toyota eight year warranty. Check the original purchase date (it may still qualify). If so, you would get a new engine and also, de facto because they nmeed to change it to put in the new engine, a new rear engine oil seal.

I must say that I liked the RX300 more than the 350. [The 300 is now in Michigan, and out of my possession - I should change my 'ownership/; status!]. However, on the 'accomplishment' side, the 350 certainly does everything better than the 300 did: it out-accelerates it, out-brakes it, contains more (though I have the '09, which still has struts) and feels there is more sprinkled 'luxury'. But - you are right - the 300 felt more 'together': tighter (probably because there are less 'things' appended), more 'character', some things maybe less luxurious but I felt better made (seat leather, front armrests). Undoubtedly, the RX350 is a better car. But the 300 is a friendlier, more 'honest' car to which one could grow more 'attached'. I do not regret having the RX350, and I do not think I would want to go back. It serves me better than the 300 did, specially when traveling (pick up, silence, power), and it may well last more with less headaches (transmission, engine seal). It's like remembering an earlier girlfriend - times were simpler, we were too.... I did find the 330 less attractive than the 350. It seems to me that Lexus 'sorted out' the 350 better (as they should since it was later in the production process ) and I expect it will more trouble-free than any RX. It's certainly more powerful, but the engine doesn't like being pushed - I don't know if it is an issue of 'balance' (maybe mine particularly?) or what, but it just doesn't have the smoothness I associate with a higher-end motor. In this regard, the older 300 felt better and, of course, the BMW is amazing (but it an in-line 6, which is always one of the smoothest). To err slightly from the exact subject, I have just driven a friend's VW Golf, 1.4 compressor+turbo, 4 cylinder, 170HP... I was amazed at the smoothness - couldn't tell it was a 4 cyl. So, generalizing (wrongly) from (inadequate) info., I conclude that the Germans still have the mechanical edge... Good luck with your car. Back to your timing belt ... A number of posts describe the DIY approach, and also mention that Toyota dealerships offer great prices on the TB change: same procedure/motor as the Highlander and, very roughly, half the price of Lexus. [by the way, the 350 has a chain timing belt - doesn't need changing - vs. the 330 rubber-like (like the 300) which needs changing. Where are you in Southern Ontario?

People have beliefs that are often the stronger for being the less tested. My 'real world' experience has been that the RXs I have had 'roll along' better at 33 psi than 30 psi, but begin being what I consider unduly harsh at 35 psi. The tires have not worn irregularly or more in the center (and this may depend on the tire: the Michelins - like BF Goodrich, their subs. - state they have a special 'equalizing' belt that maintains the contact patch more 'constant' ( my words). The temps of the tire seem nice and even across the surface after a couple of hours of driving. So that is what I use on the RX. [it may also be that Lexus errs on the side of comfort and thus slightly under-inflates the tires). On the BMW, I preferred the feel of slightly over-inflated rear tires and regularly-inflated fronts (these are low-aspect tires, manuf. states - depending on load and speed: 36-39 psi front and up to 46 rear). I have been running 39 front and 48 rear. The rear centers have worn more than the edges in the back, but equally in the front. Tires are Conti. ExtremeContact. I don't know if another brand would wear differently, but the BMW feels good as I run it and that is what I do. When I put a new tires model or brand on the car, I will drive / test with various psi until I find what I like. To each his/her own. However, on a general 'conceptual' level, I have some concern that running tires every day (i.e. not on track) at more than 10% of the manuf. recommendations will probably reduce comfort substantially and also cause unwanted frequency response with the OEM settings of the suspension.

How do you know how many kms (miles) are left? Did you run to empty? Otherwise, the indicator of remaining miles (kms) is based on your recent driving style applied to the remaining amount of fuel. In fact - see manual - the amount of fuel seems to be about 2 gallons, which is usually sufficient to drive at least 30-35 miles. 9

I am planning to trade my 2001 RX300 in a year. It has 220,000 kilometers (about 136,000 miles) and has been a great car for me. Because the aircon compressor belt is screaming, I decided to change it. Now I'm thinking I should do the timing belt while I'm at it. It has never been done. Does anyone know if the engine is non-invasive (or whatever they call it when the valves don't hit the cylinder when the timing belt snaps)? I think I recall the parts guy at the dealership suggesting that. If it is the case that there is no danger damaging the valves if the belt goes, then I may just pass on replacing it. What do you think? There have been lots of discussion in this forum about whether the RX300 engine is or not an 'interference engine', i.e. that the valves could, at some point, hit the pistons if the timing belt breaks. The consensus - or at least a number of writers - seem to agree that the VVT(variable valve timing) feature may make the RX300 engine an interference engine because, under some timing scenarios and some piston positions, there could be interference; and there seems to be some argument that, were the VVT not a feature, the engine would not be an interference engine. Many people state that the timing belt should last for 120K miles+, but I have not yet heard of anyone having a broken timing belt nor a destroyed engine due to such break. As a final note, if it were me and my car had some 140K miles and I wanted to keep it, I would change the timing belt. Small cost for big peace of mind.

Yes, I fully agree. I run mine at 33psi and all is fine.

Very likely.

You can get a sense of prices by doing simple research: kbb.com - edmunds.com - also check the offerings (through the Web) of dealers in the area you're interested in.

My Lexus dealer in Kendall, FL outsources all bodywork... I believe most do. They add on a % 'commish' to the cost.

The answer is in the manual. I don't remember the exact details, but they are like "keep the car on ODO, press button, keep pressed as you turn ignition on, let it show change, then let go button, turn off." Not difficult and, as I said , in the manual.

Thank you for sharing your experience and solution. I am sure someone will benefit from it.

Yes had it done recently. All your info is correct. Took about one hour, got it washed and was told the recall also included a full tank of gas.. Worth the hour wait! Ya, we got the gas, oil change, tire rotate, nice deal lol! No fill-up here in FL on my 09RX350 when they changed the oil hose!

Maybe it is time to think of inventing a 'knob guard', which, when purchased for a large sum and installed, will re-direct knee action sideways.

I am sure you can do the install yourself, but it would help if you got someone to assist, to hold the hitch 'up' in position while you put the bolts in (through) on the first side.

I had the same problem on my old RX300. Dealer said it was 'normal, they all do it'. In fact, I suspect it is the motor mounts which were worn and did not absorb the lower frequencies any more.

I guess this is good news! Enjoy the car!

Other members of this forum may have more info. - but in the back of my mind I seem to remember reading something similar and it was blamed on the brake pedal sensor/switch. I cannot say whether this is 1. accurate or 2. something that was resolved by changing the brake switch. Did you do a 'search' on this forum?

IACV, MAF sensor need cleaning? -- Others on this forum will probably give you better detailed info.... See : http://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-first-generation/358579-diy-iacv-clean-picture-write-up.html

...as I suspected - amd the maunual clearly states they are supplied....so any thoughts as to how I go about getting a replacement? Actually - let me re-think that. I got four items: 1. two keys with remote; 2. one key that contains electronics (a chip) to allow the user to drive the car (is that the 'valet' key? I've never used it and don't know if it operates the glove-box) but no remote capability; and 3. an electronic credit-card-sized-but-thicker 'card' that contains two elements: one is a metal 'stem' (that can be separated from the card) that allows the opening of the door but not the start-up of the engine, except - for the latter - when a side of the 'card' containing the chip is held in close proximity to the ignition switch. [since I am concerned about being locked out the one day when it is most inconvenient, i.e when I have lost the key while out, I have hidden the 'stem' around the outside of the car, and hidden the stemless card somewhere inside the car. Thus, I will be able to open the car with the stem, then get the card, then start the engine if need be, and make my way home.] I don't know if any of those keys/card qualify as a 'valet' key. The one key that contains an electronic chip but is not 'remote' has a plastic covered head, and the head is about 1/2 - 2/3 the size of the 'remote' key. I have always thought of the key with chip but not remote as the 'valet' key. And the credit-card-sized 'combo' as the 'wallet' key. -- I hope this helps. Of course, the easy way to check is to call a Lexus dealer and advise you wish to order the 'wallet' key for your vehicle. If they accept the order - bingo! Precisley: I have the two fully functional remote keys as well as the "valet" key, but the card that holds a metal key that can be popped out and used to gingerly open the door if you lock your keys inside is what's missing. And - yes they do work as I needed to engage it once (silly me). I was not aware of the "hold the wallet in proximity to the ignition switch" properties but shoudl I actually get this wallet key it will be worth a try. Thanks I wish you luck. Let us know. I had first purchased a 3-year old 99RX300, CPO, some seven or eight years ago. They gave me one remote key, one 'valet' key, one 'wallet' key, telling me this was the complete set. Only a couple of years later, when my girl-friend had her keys stolen and I had new 'locks and keys' put in, did I realize that in fact two (not one) remote keys were normally provided! They try to get away with what they can.

...as I suspected - amd the maunual clearly states they are supplied....so any thoughts as to how I go about getting a replacement? Actually - let me re-think that. I got four items: 1. two keys with remote; 2. one key that contains electronics (a chip) to allow the user to drive the car (is that the 'valet' key? I've never used it and don't know if it operates the glove-box) but no remote capability; and 3. an electronic credit-card-sized-but-thicker 'card' that contains two elements: one is a metal 'stem' (that can be separated from the card) that allows the opening of the door but not the start-up of the engine, except - for the latter - when a side of the 'card' containing the chip is held in close proximity to the ignition switch. [since I am concerned about being locked out the one day when it is most inconvenient, i.e when I have lost the key while out, I have hidden the 'stem' around the outside of the car, and hidden the stemless card somewhere inside the car. Thus, I will be able to open the car with the stem, then get the card, then start the engine if need be, and make my way home.] I don't know if any of those keys/card qualify as a 'valet' key. The one key that contains an electronic chip but is not 'remote' has a plastic covered head, and the head is about 1/2 - 2/3 the size of the 'remote' key. I have always thought of the key with chip but not remote as the 'valet' key. And the credit-card-sized 'combo' as the 'wallet' key. -- I hope this helps. Of course, the easy way to check is to call a Lexus dealer and advise you wish to order the 'wallet' key for your vehicle. If they accept the order - bingo!

They are trying to test whether the dealers know the car!

Can't say for 2008 - but I got one for 2009RX

I don't know what part - where - of the oil system it pertains to, but the issue has been discussed several times, and, until now, the postings only referred to 2007-2008 RXs. It now seems it affects the 2009 RXs too, which had been a question in one forum or the other. Further, a couple of posts in one forum or the other discussed the replacement of the hose/line with a metal line, indicating that Lexus only replaced with a 'soft' hose, whereas in fact the dealer advised me the replacement was a metal hose. For instance: Plse. check: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=61502&pid=395029&start=&st=#entry395029 If you own a 2009RX, the post carries some information that could be deemed useful. If you don't own one - yes, useless info. I regret the latter applies to you. If you wish, and can do so, a perusal of Lexus TSBs should provide further info. If you find something informational, thank you in advance for sharing.