2XLexV8

Good Evening, Fuel pump ECU, in the driver's rear seat side panel. Good Luck B)

Good Evening, Please check the lower control arm bushings before replacing the rack. Get the Daizen poly units, they're the best. After I replaced ours (A full Saturday's project) the car didn't need an alignment, and it tracks like it should. Just follow the instructions exactly. Good Luck B)

Good Evening, We just got our 92 SC400 out of the body shop yesterday. Full body, partial disassembly, lights polished, etc. Looks like new. 21 hours labor, ~$300 in paint, window tint, some seals and new emblems $3300 I'll try and post some before and after pix. Good luck B)

Good Evening, Let's look at gasoline for a moment. Octane is basically how long the fuel burns; higher number, burns longer, makes more horsepower. Lower number; burns faster, pings. If your vehicle owner's manual specifies an octane rating of 87, running on gasoline with an octane rating of 89 or 91 or more will normally not make a difference. However, there are some exceptions to this, and it must be noted that if the owner’s manual specifies using gasoline with an octane rating of 89 or 91, then that’s what you should use because that’s what the engine is designed and tuned for. Today's fuel is of higher quality, but 91 is still 91, just as 34 inch waist jeans from 1980 are the same 34 inch waist jeans today. It's a standard. One - and a very important - exception is that when a vehicle gets older, the normal build-up of fuel- and lubricant-related deposits in the engine can increase the fuel octane number a car requires to prevent engine knock. For this reason, if a car more than a couple of years old experiences engine knocking, the problem may be solved simply by moving to the gasoline with the next-higher anti-knock index. This is backwards of what many people do. Now, for the average SC400, a full tank is around 16 gallons. 16 X 2.50(regular) = $40. Then 16 X 2.70(Premium) = $43.20. So, for the price of a Happy Meal, you take the chance of damaging your Lexus. Also, the Lexus maintenance schedules are based on the cleaning ability and quality of premium fuel. Using cheaper fuel means you'll not get the 60K miles from spark plugs, fuel filters, etc. And the thrill of a right foot cramp on the interstate just isn't as much fun. Isn't that worth $3? Good Luck B)

Good Evening, I'm fighting the same problem. The ISC (Idle speed control) valve is under the Lexus symbol on the intake manifold. It's a round, black item with several hoses and an electrical connector. Here's the trick: Three of the hoses are coolant lines. You have to remove the wire cover, one large hose from the intake snorkel, and then the coolant lines. The valve itself is a stepping unit. This means you have to apply power to it, then ground two different terminals to move the valve. I'll be pulling mine off this weekend, to check and clean it up. Hopefully, I won't have to buy a new one. If you want, I'll let you know. Good Luck B)

Good Evening, Since my last post, the problem came back. Replaced the fuel pump ECU, good to go. Thanks AW3, he called it some time ago. As to why - When the car gets hot, the fuel pump ECU is supposed to increase fuel pump pressure and overcome fuel perculation in the engine. Bad ECUs don't do that. But relieving the pressure in the tank will allow you to run sometimes. Troubleshoot the ECU before replacing the fuel pump. In eiter case, the entire rear seat comes out. Good Luck

Good Evening; Couple of questions (in order): - Is it hot outside (near 100F), or is the car sitting in the direct sunlight? - Is the clip that holds the fuel lines to the driver's side fenderwell broken? - Have you checked the valve in the fuel cap? It could be vapor lock, where the gas vaporizes in the fuel line and the air bubble won't let the fuel pass. I had this problem, solved it by reattaching the lines to the fenderwell, and wrapping the lines with foil. Hasn't happened since. I'll take a stainless heat shield and modify it later, and mount it to the holes already in the fenderwell. Feedback always welcome :D

Good Evening, Lexus uses good 'ol normal oil. 10W30 recommended for older cars, or if you live in a warm climate. Filters range from the cheap generic brands (~$3) to the premium specialty ones ($9-15). You get what you pay for. Generally, Toyota/Lexus filters are in the $5-7 range, and are very good at their job. Tires are like shoes: What do you need them to do? We replaced our Michelin pilots with Toyo Proxes TPT after reading the reviews at 1010tire.com They are quieter, smoother, and less expensive. Timing belt replacement is 90K. Strongly recommend the water pump as well, because you'll not want to pay the labor charge again to remove and replace the timing belt destroyed by a bad water pump. Also check the idler bearings. Good Luck :D

Good Evening, The major parts of an A/C system: - Compressor (Motor driven part) - Receiver/drier (Temporary storage and removes moisture) - Expansion valve (Regulator - controls rate of gas flow) - Condenser (Gets rid of heat. Sits in front of radiator) - Evaporator (Where the gas expands and removes heat from interior) There are other minor parts and variations on this theme. When an R12 system is converted, most people take the cheap way out: remove the old gas, stick in the new. This can cause several problems: - Dessicant in the drier breaks down, clogs the expansion valve - Excess moisture in the system (because the drier doesn't work), corrodes the insides of nearly everything - Old oil not completely removed. The resulting contamination of the new oil causes compressor problems. - Air in the system. Blows the compressor, or-over pressurizes the condensor, taking advantage of any weaknesses in it. - No or incomplete vacuum test before conversion. This test identifies minor leaks before you go through the process of refilling the system. - Overfilling with R134a. The pressures are more important than the number of pounds of gas you put in. This is why someone with a manifold set (who can read it), as well as knowing the specs of your car gives you the best chance of success. R134a doesn't cool as well as R12; but a trained tech will set your pressures so that you'll have to work at knowing it. We haven't mentioned that a '92 is a 12-year-old car, where any part could fail at any time. Some dealerships and A/C shops will recommend new "O" rings; checking hoses; replace the expansion valve, use a conversion kit with sealer, etc. Each has it's good points and risks. Get a second opinion because it's your money. In my experience, a system that had any R12 pressure in it at all will normally perform OK after a proper conversion. It's been in the high 90s regularly here; and our converted A/C keeps us comfortable with the auto temp set at 73. 92 SC400, only new part was the receiver/drier. I hope it wasn't too much information. Good Luck :D

Good Evening, The conversion process has some quirks. R12 and it's lube oil is not compatible with R134a and it's lube oil. A do-it-yourselfer that gets air in the lines will blow the compressor because "air doesn't compress". On a '92, the low port is on the compressor, the high port is in front of the radiator, sitcking up through the plastic shroud. Get the angled adapter for the high port. The receiver/drier is by the driver's side headlight. Often, the conversion to R134a will seal small leaks in the system. Part of this is the conversion itself, another is the chemical mix that some kits contain. The original receiver/drier probably needs replaced anyway, and it's a place compressor oil hangs out. The original drier media may disintegrate with R134a. This can clog the expansion valve and cause other problems. Consider replacing it if you want to keep the car a while. Some shops will do the conversion with adapters and a receiver/drier for around $200-300. For a legal evacuation (not to the atmosphere), purge, new drier, and an oil and gas charge, including normally a guarantee, it seems a bargain. It's also not even close to $1200. I did my conversion at a dealership, with a receiver/drier, spent around $200, and it's worked for six months without any problems. Periodic checks during other servicing for leaks (dye in the conversion kit) have found nothing. Stay Cool

Good Evening, Any A/C work should include a conversion to R134a. R12 is just too expensive. I converted mine with a new receiver/drier for around $125. The new part is best because you want all the old oil out of the system before the conversion and also the ability to get any moisture out after. SC300 are 15" stock wheels, SC400s are 16" Look within the SC forums for common problems, tips and tricks. You may find you have more items to look at. Many small shops can cost less $. Something to check first is that they're using the same parts, and the warranty on their work. If all the parts are aftermarket/no brand name, and no workmanship guarantee, maybe it's not a bargain. Good Luck :D

Good Evening, Welcome to SC-ownership. There are many places to look for parts: - eBay - TAP recycling in California - Right here in the forums - The local Toyota dealership, if they will work with you The needles can be replaced for as little as $99. The dealership is closer to $800, or more. The popular refurb place takes three days to turn your cluster. The A/C system might be a low-cost fix. I replaced the receiver dryer and converted to R134a for around $125. It gets cold. You can just convert the gas, but because the compressor oils are not compatible, it's better long-term to replace the receiver-drier, recharge with new oil and gas. There are places that do interior parts. The complete set of seat leather can be had for around $650, and a steering wheel recover from $159-350. Part of the decision on how to fix your car will be how long you can be without driving it while the parts are baing refurbished. Look in the forums about common problems and their fixes. It prevents lots of frustration

Good Evening, The starter sits in the top of the motor, at the base of the "V", in the back. Blower or not, the whole intake manifold has to come off to get to the starter. Not much fun in either case. I have an '02 Tundra V8 with the TRD. The LX470 needs some additional procedures, making it slightly harder, but the same blower fits both motors. Three big points - Use premium fuel; don't add an FIPK intake; and buy an extra serpentine belt. Hopefully, I'll add one to my LX470 before they all disappear. Good Luck :D

Good Evening, The flashing light is an error indicator. Check the compressor clutch connections (power and the ground), first. There are procedures in the factory repair manual to enter diagnostic mode and read the codes in the climate control system. This will save you a lot of time. Good Luck :D

Good Evening, I work in a small Toyota dealership, in the service department. We service any Lexus we can, exclusive of warranty repairs (Because we aren't authorized) I personally own two Lexus (SC400, LX470) and two Toyota trucks (Tundra V8 and Tacoma 4cyl) There are many ways to save money, since many of the parts are the same. For example, the water pumps from all V8s interchange. Timing belts, serpentine belts, seals, etc. Buuuuttt, oil filters are different... We stock the part numbers for Lexus filters. We install genuine Lexus parts when needed, and we order them from one of three Lexus dealers convenient to us. Express Lube means 29 mins or less (weekdays only, when most people are needing the time to get back to work. So, we did a 140K service on our 92 SC400, interchanged all the parts we could, and saved about 40% on the Lexus dealer cost. Well worth the effort. Even considering my employee discount, the average consumer will still save big. Choose your service department as carefully as you'd choose child care. This applies if you're planning to keep your vehicle for some time. Good Luck

Good Evening, I replaced the front lower control arm bushings two weeks ago. The Daizan ones worked out real well. You can get them mail order from Sewell Lexus in Dallas. ~$100 for the front set, ~$159 for the rear; and ~$29 for the sway bar. Ask for Darrel Diller in Parts. Removing the lower arm isn't hard if you do some work on your own car. Go buy a tie rod end tool to take loose the lower ball joint from the arm. ~$15. The Daizan instructions are good. One thing they don't tell you is that the large rubber disks from the original units does not get reused. Both of the smaller bushings were so bad, I pushed the cores out by hand. The larger ones were much more work, but follow the Daizan instructions. The car makes no strange suspension noise, and drives real well at 80. We fitted a new set of Toyo Proxes TPT tires and we're cruising. . . . Good Luck :D

Good Evening, I work in the service department of a small Toyota dealership. We also service Lexus. The #1 performance problem in our area is the fuel system. Lots of customers want to reduce thier fuel cost, but it's a "Pay me now or pay me later." relationship. Looking at a 15-gallon fill-up in a 20-gallon tank, the difference between 93 0ctane at $2.00/gal and 87 at $1.80/gal is $3.00. Yes, less than a Happy Meal. The above post about fuel quality is right on track. You get what you pay for. Lexus bases the maintenance schedule on normal driving with premium fuel. Using lower quality gas increases the frequency you need fuel filters, spark plugs, induction system cleaning, etc. The loss of performance is gradual. Sometimes adding a bottle of cleaner will help. Cost: ~$3.00 Hmmm. As our cars get older, they typically need more octane, not less. There are other ways in the posts here to improve mileage like: Replace the O2 sensors in cars over 120K, use iridium plugs, get a K&N air filter, keep the tires inflated, buy fuel from reputable dealers, switch to synthetic oil, etc. Each has their fans and opponents, but part of the joy of the SC-series cars is using the power occasionally and sometime just for fun. Please, spend the $3.00. Good Luck

Good Afternoon, This procedure needs a set of fuel line wrenches. Normal combination wrenches will damage the old filter and lines. The stock Lexus filter has larger nuts than the fuel line. This way you can put the larger wrench on first, then the smaller one. Some after-market filters have SAE-size connectors, so check first. Loosen the fuel filter clamp so the filter will turn. Take the bolt clear out so you can have max. wiggle room. Those with gorilla hands can squeeze the two wrenches together like pliers and remove the filter. The rest of us can support the one wrench against the body and turn the other to get it loose. Start with the rear one, it has more room to move around. Then do the front, so you can hold the fuel line more easily. Make the filter move the most, it's getting tossed anyway. I used a catch basin for the fuel, and to drop the old filter into. After breaking things loose, I removed the rear line, and spun the new filter on. Next, the filter went into the clamp (not tightened); I removed the plastic shipping plug and installed the front line. The next challenge was to get things tightened back up. Several grunts and unmentionable phrases later, it stopped leaking. No damage, no leaks, no teflon tape. I lost about a pint of fuel. Even at today's prices, it was cheaper than taking it to the dealership, who would've wasted the same fuel anyway.. I put the clamp bolt back in, and fired it up. No leaks. Take a look at the fuel that comes out of the filter. Even with consistent use of premium, it's still ugly. Good Luck

Good Evening, I replaced all four Nak 4" with Rockford-fosgate 4" 4204 2-way, and the sub with an R-F 10" RFZ3810. We had to back off of the treble's detent setting, but it sounds good no matter which seat you sit in. We chose the 8-ohm sub because the original Nak sub was 5 ohm, and some of the posts said never go below the amp's minimum. There is, of course, limited info on the Nak amp. Better safe than buying another. Good Luck

Good Evening, I replaced my Nak sub with a Punch z RFZ3810. You'll need a Poineer sub for the bracket. With the new sub on the Pioneer bracket, it fits perfect. The NAK sub is 5 ohm, I used the 8-ohm R-F. The stock amp sounds a lot better, but those who want real bass will need more amplification. Good Luck.

Good Evening, We replaced our 4 speakers with rockford-fosgate 2-way. After reducing the treble some, they're great. Current R-F vs 12-year old Naks should be a reasonable price/performance tradeoff. The sub is another issue. I have a R-F RFZ3810 (10") on order, and need to get a mono amp with ~ 150W. Several people recommend this unit because of the limited space in the SC400 rear deck. Other forums discuss subs at length, but I just need a little more bass than stock. Blowing out the rear windows isn't on the agenda. Good luck

Good Morning, I do tech support for computer also, but have learned that some electronics are just better do replace than mess with. The CD changers are available on eBay for various prices. Since you have a 92, you can try to get a newer one that has been upgraded to skip a little less and be more reliable. These units have either blue or red colored dots in the cartridge area. Other posts on this forum have all the information about these troublesome CD players. My spouse wants to dump the trunk unit, and go for an in-dash OEM lexus unit. This will be a challenge, and so reads all the posts about it. Good Luck ;)

Good Evening, For $8100 you can buy any of several SC400s in good to excellent condition from eBay, dealers, or individuals. The cars are generally the same from 92-96 and 97-2000. We bought ours needing some paint, seat leather, and new bushings. A 92 with 143K, for $4000. Not wrecked, never smoked, just neglected a bit. The main reasons we went ahead: We got to drive it first, and the indigo/spruce color combo seems rare from what we've seen. After getting normal maintenance caught up, bushings installed, and estimates for paint, seats, needles, and climate control display, we're still under $8100. It'll be set to go anywhere we want. I'd strongly recommend shopping elsewhere. :D

Good Evening, May I ask why you are changing the compressor, drier, and expansion valve on an R134a system? Is it completely dead?

Glad to help. I spray the inside of the throttle, let it sit some, and go after it with a rag. You will get the rags soaked just from scrubbing. It's just a nasty job. Good Luck