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A list of Gremlins currently experiencing: When I purchased the vehicle: *seat memory came with no function *power mirrors came with no function *have to manually open the trunk came with no automatic function Since purchase, had an after market alarm system installed.. however had the system disconnected to see if that might have been the mystery behind the new problems. No such luck. Starter problem now. Either the solenoid or the starter, checking this Saturday. Already checked, the starter has power running to it. However with a little patience, does start still. Battery cables fine, and cleaned, as well as coated. All fuses are fine, with the exceptions of no power to these two sections when tested: ST HTR (my guess is seat heater) as well as S T <~(no clue what that means). We have in our possession a 1992 LEXUS SC300 OEM FACTORY WIRING DIAGRAM MANUAL, with a little outside help, will start diagnosing this weekend. Here's what went wrong a couple of months after purchase: power locks inoperable:have to manually lock or use the key heater memory no more: always resets to off position when starting the vehicle. odometer memory resets power tilt wheel no function: worked perfectly, now not at all. dome light no longer functions rear view mirror on dim no longer functions vanity mirror lights no longer functions cigarette lighter no longer functions/light works fine passenger seat will not go forward automatically however the power seats still slide on tracks no memory vehicle no longer senses when doors are open or ajar Question Is their a common ecu involved here? perhaps something in the wiring? Additional problem: Happened this past week. All connections tested okay... except at one point in time their was no power to the St fuse area... starter... as well as no power to the st htr... seat heaters. Dash illumination tends to stay on after vehicle is shut down. Turn blinker "left" with quiet almost grinding noise under left dash shuts it down, since my doors have no working sensors. Aside from that being a bit on the odd side... here's an even more confusing thing.. turns itself back on intermittently while no one is in its proximity. I've disconnected the battery cable so it's possession will not scare the neighbors. Have an inkling it was a most recently cleaned ground.. checked it.. didn't seem to be the problem. Disconnected the Auto start/Alarm system..not the problem either. So, now sits in the driveway an interesting obstacle... Interior front completely removed until problems fixed. Any help? On anything?

First off try this: Diagnostic Code Clearance 1. After completing repairs the diagnostic code retained in memory can be cleared by removing the DOME fuse for 10 seconds or more, with the ignition switch off. 2. Check that the normal code is displayed after connecting the fuse. Some information taken from the Circuit Description with suggested troubled areas for these two codes Hope it helps. 25 Air Fuel Ratio Lean Malfunction (1) Main oxygen sensor voltage is 0.45 V or less (lean) for 90 sec. under conditions (a) and ( B ). (2 trip detection logic)*2 (a) Coolant temp.: 70°C (158°F) or more. ( B ) Engine speed: 1,500 rpm or more Troubled area for above referenced Open or short in main oxygen sensor circuit Main oxygen sensor Ignition system ECU (2)*1 Difference of air–fuel ratio feedback compensation value between front (No. 1 3 cylinders) and rear (No. 4 6 cylinders) is more than 15 percentage for 20 sec. or more under conditions (a) and ( B ). (2 trip detection logic)*2 (a) Engine speed: 2,000 rpm or more. ( B ) Coolant temp.: Between 60°C (140°F) and 95°C (203°F). Troubled are for above referenced Open and short in injector circuit. Fuel line pressure (injector leak, blockage) Mechanical system malfunction (skipping teeth of timing belt) Ignition system Compression pressure (foreign object caught in valve) Air flow meter (air intake) ECU (3)*1 Engine speed varies by more than 15 rpm over the preceding crank angle period during a period of 20 sec. or more under conditions (a) and ( B ). (2 trip detection logic)*2 (a) Engine speed: Idling ( B ) Coolant temp.: Between 60°C (140°F) and 95°C (203°F). Troubled area for above referenced Open and short in injector circuit. Fuel line pressure (injector leak, blockage) Mechanical system malfunction (skipping teeth of timing belt) Ignition system Compression pressure (foreign object caught in valve) Air flow meter (air intake) ECU 26 Air Fuel Ratio Rich Malfunction 1) Difference of air–fuel ratio feedback compensation value between front (No. 1 3 cylinders) and rear (No.4 6 cylinders) is more than 15 percentage for 20 sec. or more under conditions (a) and ( B ). (2 trip detection logic)*2 (a) Engine speed: 2,000 rpm or more. ( B ) Coolant temp.: Between 60°C (140°F) and 95°C (203°F). Troubled area for above referenced Open and short in injector circuit. Fuel line pressure (injector leak, blockage) Mechanical system malfunction (skipping teeth of timing belt) Ignition system Compression pressure (foreign object caught in valve) Air flow meter (air intake) ECU (2) Engine speed varies by more than 15 rpm over the preceding crank angle period during a period of 20 sec. or more under conditions (a) and ( B ). (2 trip detection logic)*2 (a) Engine speed: Idling ( B ) Coolant temp.: Between 60°C (140°F) and 95°C (203°F). Troubled area for above referenced Open and short in injector circuit. Fuel line pressure (injector leak, blockage) Mechanical system malfunction (skipping teeth of timing belt) Ignition system Compression pressure (foreign object caught in valve Air flow meter (air intake) ECU

I could be wrong.. but atleast our sc300 doesn't have that option. Manual suggests a ground wire... I'm still working on mine.

Get yourself some great upholstery adhesive perhaps some shallow staples, replaced the door vinyl in less than 2 hours... the only thing you would need to stitch would be the door handle. The best thing is to reference with an upholstery book that covers the basics of contours, and to watch the concave. An independant trimmer might be able to provide you with advice as well. As far as the dash goes.. a simple task in comparison, watch the stretching, get a vinyl that has some stretch but not alot, and you should be set.

97 Toyota Supra 6 speed converted to a single..it's locked up in the garage for the winter. As well as a 98 Dodge Ram 5.9L Truck for hauling things back and forth to club events/dragstrips.

Figured it was a bushing. I'll be able to update you, once I have time to get to it. For now... I made the mistake of cleaning the engine. Probably sometime this next week... the clunk is when I come to a hard stop or when I first start out. Which makes me think it is the bushing as well.

The passenger side has broken on the sc300, will check out ebay.

I've experienced the same problem with the sc300, haven't yet looked into it. Any help in this area would be great.