dogboy

I have been looking around on the site and have not found a post for what the correct replacement batter for the Keyless Entry key for the 91 LS 400 is. Also does anyone know what size the screw that holds the key together is and where to get one? And no I do not have the original battery or I would just use it to get the info! The key's FCC ID: HYQ1512A

I think I have found the problem. I pulled the Lamp Failure module and as soon as I pulled it out the problem went away. I suspected this first because this is the one unit that is tied to multiple systems that has enough power drain to shut down the radio. Also the Lamp Failure would illuminate when this problem would happen. After I pulled the Lamp Failure module I have not been able to duplicate the problem. There are some signs of overheating on the board. I can post some pictures if it will help. Also I am not sure if this was the source of the problem because the symptoms were intermittent and when the Lamp Failure module is out the break lights do not light up so there is note as much drain on the system. The reason I am throwing this out so quick is I have been able to stall the vehicle if I push the break and tax the electrical system (very dangerous at high speeds). Please let me know if this helps!

Dude- I am having the same problem. I just replaced my bat and the terminals are clean just like brand new. (I might add that this problem only started after the new battery)! I have not started tracking down the problem yet. I think that this may be an alternator problem. I know that my power steering rack has been leaking a little, and this has presented a lot of problems for gen 1 LS400 owners. Also I had fixed the control module that lets you know when bulbs are burnt out a couple of years ago. I am going to recheck it to see if it is failing somewhere different on the board. This is the first place that I am going to start. Have you fixed the problem with your car yet?

I have brand new tires (2 weeks old). I have a post that talks about my tire buying experience. I do believe that I have a problem with the strut bar. I am going to have the car up in the air this week so I will take a look then. Does anyone have any suggestions on what I should look for?

The ride is ruff. I can feel every groove and bump in the road.

I have a 91 LS 400 with the air ride Suspension. The question I have is: How do you know if the struts are bad? I have been told that if the struts hold air then they are good. Is this true? These are questions that can be referenced with the attached JPG (Image2.jpg). I have seen a lot of post about greasing the stabilizer bar bushings. Where would you grease the STABILIZER BAR? Blue, Green, Black or Red mark? Also the #3 upper control arm, is it also called the upper ball joint?

I recently had new tires put on my LS 400. Driving the car with the new tires was like riding a bull. I have read a lot of post on this site that have said that these cars are very sensitive to tire balance and that most of the suspension vibration is from the tires not being balanced properly. I can say that from my experience with these new tires this is true. I took the car back to the tire shop and explained what the problem was. The technician put the tire (that I felt had the problem) on the balancing machine and found that the tire had what he called a hop in it. He rotated the tire 160 degrees on the rim and tried to balance the tire once more. And it still had the hop. So he replaced the tire with a new one. The technician said that this would take care of my problem and sent me on my way. Although the ride of the car is dramatically improved the ride of the car was not as smooth as before I put the new tires on. So when I went back and asked if they would rebalance the rest of the wheels the technician gave me a bunch of attitude. Grudgingly the technician went out and pulled the other 3 wheels and rebalanced them. To his surprise he had to replace another tire. The point of me sharing this is: I do not care what kind of car you have 2 bad tires will make any car ride like a bull, but with this type of car (LS400) the vibration is magnified significantly. So if you ever have suspension vibration the first and cheapest place to try to fix is the tires. And if I had not had access to the information on this site I probably would have spent a lot of money trying to fix this problem. Thank you Lexus Owners Club!

As much as I see people pushing other products I do not think the moderator will even care. If so I have put another posting that is pretty generic up. I know about the kit that you bought from the UK. It is nice but more work to install than what I propose. With what I do you would not have to take any of the car apart other than to access the transceiver plug in the trunk. Also I am not trying to get rich off of this. I am sure if I posted how to do this on the site a lot of people would be sending me something other than beer to my door step. This is easy but a person can really do a lot of damage quick with something of this nature. So I guess we will see what happens!

Ok for those of you who have expressed an interest with using the Lexus factory phone options with your current phone, I have the answer. I have built several adaptor kits for the 90-95 Lexus LS400. Let me know what your interest is in this product This device will allow you to use the factory mute, H/F speaker and microphone, 12V switched power, 12V power, & ground. Also I can make kits by request that can be used with phones that do not have a car kit. As per the forum rules I am not advertising this product for sale just letting anyone that is interested know about its existence.

Ok for those of you who have expressed an interest with using the Lexus factory phone options with your current phone, I have the answer. I have built several adaptor kits for the 90-95 Lexus LS400. I hope to have a website up by the end of this week that anyone can go to. Let me know what your interest is in this product by replying to this post and I will make it worth your input. This device will allow you to use the factory mute, H/F speaker and microphone, 12V switched power, 12V power, & ground. Also I can make kits by request that can be used with phones that do not have a car kit.

I read a post and I am having a hard time finding it. It was about replacing the burned out lights in the radio and the climate control. Not the LCD & NOT THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER. The post had a link to an e-bay seller and talked about the price going down over time. I think the price of the auction was in the 30 to 35 dollar price range. I have spent 2 hours looking for the post so your help would be appreciated.

You probably have a profit bracket. When you take it out make sure that you have the radio code before hand. You can call the dealer and get it from them if you do not have it. Also be careful not scrach anything. I have taken these brackets out by leaving the radio plugged in but used a thick towel to rap the radio in. Also you will be surprised at how much work you have to got through to take out the bracket being I think there is only one or 2 screws holding it in. If you have a handheld phone you might just think of keeping the bracket in the car and using a universal holder. It is a nice location to have a phone.

Here is my take on this. The problem may be that your chrome wheels are flaking on the inside of the rim. The plating technology that was used a few years ago is completely different from the way plating is done today. You can look for a person that calls themselves a polisher. They will grind down the inside of your rimes and remove the chrome. Then they will glass bead the area that is ground down. Glass beading will seal the chrome edge and keep the chrome from peeling or flaking. With this procedure the tire bead will seal with the inside lip of the rim (problem fixed). You should pay about 20 to 25 dollars per rim. Also this will help with keeping your wheels in balance. With some types of chrome rims the tire will actually slip on the rim under heavy breaking and acceleration. Some common causes for this are age and using fix a flat. I do not recommend using the bead seal, it is not a permanent fix and just plain sucks. I hope this helps. Please feel free to e-mail me directly.

:chairshot: Well it is pretty simple to use the existing parts as they are. The problem is that every phone manufacture has their own way of doing things. There are so many combinations of equipment and features it is mind-boggling. I will post what the Lexus components do and the best way to interface with them. But I will draw the line at figuring out how each individual person’s equipment works. It will blow your mind how simple it really is. In regards to EE2. This is the most compromised cellular protocol. I could say more but with that said you can figure out yourself why the EE2 phone is valuable.

Thank you! BTW I am from Lenexa! I went to Shawnee Mission West. Small world.

;) I have a 91 LS 400. One day I noticed that the lamp failure light was on. I grabbed the broom from the garage and wedged it so it would hold down the break pedal so I could determine which bulb was out. I strolled around to the back of the car and was not happy with what I saw. I did not just have one burnt out bulb but several. The third brake light and the trunk deck lights were not working. I tried switching bulbs just to make sure that all of the bulbs had not just burnt out at once. Well after some investigation I found the Lamp Failure Control Module in the trunk. The part # was 89373-50010 L. Well I opened the Lamp Failure control module and found that part of the board had burnt up. So I called the dealer to see how much this little black bocks would cost and too my surprise they only wanted $350.00 for it. Well $350.00 is less than what I would have expected to pay from a dealer but I am kind of cheep. So I set down at my bench and started to work on the burnt board. I cleaned it and set a line of solder down to make a new trace. I also ran a couple of 12 volt test on the leads to make sure that it would not send out high voltage and burn something up. I popped the Lamp Failure control module back in the car and it has work great ever since. That was about 2.5 years ago. The reason I am writing this is not to say how great I am but to find out if anyone other than me has had this problem before. I think I know what cased the problem but would like to get some feed back. So fire away.

I agree with 93LSOwner. I do not think what you are describing are components from a Lexus phone. It depends on where you live but more than likely you cannot get analog service anyway. Yes there are still analog phones in service but most carriers are no longer providing analog service to new customers. I know some smart A** is going to say they still can roam on too an analog signal. Yes this is true but Cell Phone companies are only providing analog service to pick up roaming revenue and to comply with the FCC regulations that say they have to keep the analog system up and running. I know this is not cell phone 101 so to make a long story short, give up on the 3-watt analog phone idea. If you would like to have a phone with hands free and all of that good stuff, by a car kit for a handheld phone. I have built some control boards that work with my CDMA phone that allow me to use the factory equipment that came with my Lexus. I spent about 6 to 8 hours doing the work. I use the original hands free and the factory speaker with mute with my handheld car kit. Also if any one has an original Lexus phone that is EE2, it is worth big money. Do some research and you will find out why!

I have a 91 LS 400. I would like to replace the motor mounts and the transmission mount. I have looked all over the place and the best price I have found on the (Part # 1236150100) Motor mounts is $110.15 per mount, and $71.30 for the transmission mount. Does any one know where I can find these parts cheaper and how hard is it to do yourself? Also should I just replace the bushings and not the whole mount?

:chairshot: Yes you are right 90% of the time just turning the power of will fix the problem. But turning the phone of does not work for all models of transceivers. (You will still get the annoying sound when you turn the car on with curtain models). The reason I provided so much information is that when I was reading through the posts I saw some suggestion from people that may case some big problems. Just trying to help him avoid them if he decided to take the phone out or worse just cut wires as some one suggested

I know that I am chiming in late on this one but her is some info that you may find helpful. The sound that you are talking about is more than likely your phone. You can just unplug the handset and call it good or do a complete deinstall of the phone. You will not have to cut any wires as suggested by an earlier post. Also you will not need to cut any pieces of your car to take the phone out. In the console where the cord of the phone goes in to just pull the trim piece up. (There are no screws). Here is where you can just unplug the handset. If you would like to do a complete deinstall of the phone. Next pull up the little mat that is on the bottom of the consul. There are 2 screws that you can take out that will allow you to be able to lift the console up enough to pull the wires through. (If you want to take the whole phone out). A component that is left in the car that should be taken out is the transceiver. It is most likely located in the trunk of the car on the driver’s side. The phone is made by Motorola, and they switched transceiver models in 91 to 92 from series 1 transceivers to series 2 transceivers. The series 1 transceiver looks like a black brick with ribs and the series 2 transceivers is about 4 X 8 X 2 in size. You will know you have the right component because it has the end of the antenna screwed in to it with a 25 pin connector next to it with a RJ-11 ribbon cable that plugs in the side. I suggest that you tape the 25 pin connector and the RJ-11 plug up so they do not short. The likely hood of this happening is slim but why take any chances. I have seen some postings that say to just cut and tape the wires but I am sure you will end up like a lot of the people posting on this site that have electrical ghost in there car. The transceiver is the brain of the phone. The hand set is just the human interface for the phone. Also if you are going to remove the antenna be careful, use a 4” putty knife. If you use a flat blade screwdriver or just try pulling it off you may crack the back window. (I speak from experience). The antenna is held on with a 2 sided foam pad that is designed to stay sticky on the inside but get hard around the edges to keep out moisture. I hope this helps and fill free to e-mail me with any questions or if you need photos.

If you were talking about engine mount bushings, why would you just replace the bushings and not the whole mount? If I was going to attempt this type of repair I would opt to replace the whole component. To me it is just not worth risk.