1UZ-FE

The 90-94 alreday looks oudated.

i own a 94 LS. they look outdated to some, but to others like me, its a timeless classic; classy look. ;)

sorry for all of the adjectives

i only stick with OEM wires. i am good friends with a Lexus tech at the local dealer. the tech (Joey) is only 24 but has MANY times removed aftermarket wires that were customer installed and replace with OEM ones. Joey didn't give me a detailed technical explaination (due to time restritions), but said that many/most aftermarket wires just dont perform as well as Toyota brand wires.

you can make your own decision but these are the words of a Lexus Certified Technician and good friend of mine. some of you may be thinking that he just told me this so that he could make more money. if you are thinking this, you are sadly mistaken. Joey knew that if/when i buy wires, i would put them on myself meaning that he didn't earn any money off of me. He told me so that i wouldn't be p*ssing money away on aftermarket wires, then 3 months later doing them again.

We have a car commercial over here. I don't recall the car manufacturer, in any case, it shows a man coming out of an office complex. He walks toward this incredibly beat up vehicle parked in the street. He pauses and looks around for a moment then suddenly pulls off this car cover to reveal a bright shiny new car. He hurries and shoves the car cover into the trunk and drives away.

John

the commercial is for the kia spectra.

click the "Spectra 'Car Cover' Ad" on this page (left column)

The timing belt service is a very important and pricey job. I think they recommend this at 60 or 80k??

90k to be exact ;)

i fly down the road in my LS! ;)

thanks a lot for helping me out chips.

i agree with VMF totally. 95 is the way to go.

It almost seems the hotter everthing got the slower the car felt.

that makes sense. hot air does reduce performance.

also, when u first got into your car for the tests u just posted, did the car sit for long enough that the engine cooled off all the way or even part way? if so, the engine was still choked, u get a higher idle, and a higher idle results in a better launch. as you car warmed up and approached normal operating temp, the RPMs dropped to a normal idle (~600 RPMs) and u got slower launches.

my inconsistencies were not a result of heat thought. my slower runs were totally random. my first and second tests were 9.8 second runs, 3nd was an 8.2, 4th and 5th were 9.8, and so on. totally random.

well thanks a lot chips for your helpful input. i appreciate it greatly. im still confused about what causes this but i guess i'll just have to live with it.

I don't know how much posts I have, but I know I am active.:-)

LinuxFan

Club Member

Group: Regular Member

Posts: 89

Member No.: 3613

Joined: 5-September 03

1991 LS400

Southfield, MI

on the left side of everyone's posts.

chips: so u said it helped the pick-up of your car, but does it fix the problem that i mentioned in my first post?

I mixed up some Araldite resin and that seems to have done the job.

could you please give more details on this product and where u got it and such. i would really like to fix my handle before it breaks.

thx chips

93,

I guess it's possible that you returned the photo to its original form i.e. the driver is sitting there with his foot on the gas revving the engine. The photographer took the photo so that the tach needle is hidden and then he/she used Adobe to move the needle to 150+mph ... just a theory!

:)

if that was the case then you would end up with a dark spot on the line where "0" is on the speedo. this is 93's picture un-edited by me other than the red arrow and red circle showing the dark spot where a line used to be.

my brother's 96 jeep grand cherokee door latch is all messed up. it happened b/c the hinge is missing 2 brass pin bushings and the door hung too low. every time he shut the door, the latch would hit the the U shaped piece in the frame. obviously, the metal that the latch was secured to had enough. the question i have is: if this was one of your vehicles, how would you go about fixing it?

any help would be appreciated

my 94's drivers door handle has been cracked since i bought the car 6 months ago. i have realized that it is starting to spread. someone recommended using JB weld. thoughts? ideas? any help is appreciated.

GOLDPLATER: wow. when i first hear that you were gold plating select things on your car, i was really skeptical. you have proved me WAY wrong. that is ridiculous. you have the nicest looking LS430 i have ever seen. loads of class. keep up the good work and post some more pics plz :D

previous thread: underside of my engine

this is what i found. this is one of my posts from the thread above on page 4.

this should answer any and all questions.

my under engine cover fell off b/c the plastic cracked around where the screws went in. since i used to work at the local lexus dealer and know a few tech, i asked one of them what would happen if i left this cover off and never replaced it.

reasons why the cover is there as explained by drew stancil:

1. to protect from road debris from coming up and hitting something. examples: chucks of rubber on the highway that bounce off the road and hit something that is newly exposed, a plastic bag that might be lingering on the road while driving in town that is sucked up by radiator fans or the metal fan that is in front of your engine. if a fan gets a hold of a plastic bag, it might rip out a bunch of your hoses as it is spun at a high rate of speed. this would generally mess up your day.

2. provide a little help aerodynamically. this cover keeps air from becoming turbulent as it hits odd shaped parts on the underside of your engine. he told me this really is not an issue unless you are going over 120 mph, and even then should cause that big of an issue.

3. protect from water that might splash up when hitting large puddles. drew said that the only things that might be affected by water getting in there are belts and the like. its possible for water to reach the power steering belt causing stiff steering and a squealing belt until the water dries. another possibility is that water might get into your drive belt and..... not quite sure what he said about that but i guess it'll seem like you're in neutral. i asked about the alternator and other electrical devices getting wet and he said not to worry about it.

either way, my cover has been off for about a month and i haven't had any issues yet. the cover is too damaged to be fixed and i'm too poor to buy another one so... its gonna stay off.

well im 17 with no tickets or accidents driving a 94 LS with 167k. the account is under my parents name but i still pay it in full. i pay $1,200 every 6 months with full coverage (we took out a loan from the bank.) when i was car shopping before i bought my LS, i looked at a 97 V6 mustang. the insurance "symbol" for the mustang was 16. the "symbol" for my LS is 21! a mustang 3 years new is cheaper than my LS. just my 2¢.

have you guys seen the video on the infomercial that has people upside down on bikes, or cars doing a complete 180 on the highway and such..

i'm clueless to what you are referring to. care to elaborate? i'm interested to hear exactly what this is.

good to hear. i am really interested in finding out what causes this. i might ride up to the lexus dealer tomorrow and ask my friend joey in the shop. i'll let you guys know what i find out and am anxious to hear from u all.

thanks chips and kazools for replying.

well i cleaned my throttle body about 3k miles ago. i know it helped with performance in general but thats it. please inform me on what you find out about the TPS.

Has anyone anything to say about this??

upper control arms

i know im stating the obvious, but they have to PROVE the dealer knew. thats really difficult.

"Innocent (or in this case ignorant) until proven guilty"

open it and find out ;)

the conditions of my tests are as follows:

temp:73°

humidity:87%

road condition:dry

vehicle load: 1 driver, 0 passengers, no extra cargo. (just spare, and jack, and a few small items.)

other info: A/C off, trac off, night, no aftermarket performance modifications.

i found a nearly deserted flat, strait road with a speed limit of 50 mph. i tested my time to 60 mph from a dead stop. my best time was 8.2 seconds. my worst time was 9.8 seconds. all driver inputs in all 10 of my tests were exactly identical. i did not use left foot braking, went strait from brake to gas with my right foot and simply stomped on the gas. the weird thing is the large variation in times. the times were either right around 8.2 (-/+ .025 secs), or 9.8 (-/+ .025 secs). no inbetween. when the result was 9.8 seconds, i could feel that the car just didn't want to accelerate hard from a stop (0-20). once again, i gave the exact same inputs, so why the big difference?? i did observe the tachometer during all runs. i found that during the 8.2 second runs, the RPMs would sit at around 1900 from 0 mph to about 4 mph then go up from there. when the results were 9.8 seconds, the tach would register 1900 RPMs from 0-10 mph and simply didn't accelerate really hard until i reached about 20 mph. why??

im really confused about this. could someone please try to clear this up?

thx in advance.

my 94 LS with 166k does the exact same thing. it happens when shifting from R to D -or- from D to R. i am 100% sure it is NOT coming from the front calipers or anything up front. it is definatly coming from the rear end of the car. it almost seems like something is loose in the rear diffy, like there is some play between something internal.

Im driving a 92 ls... that is 96 and later

nope. you misread.

Accessing Diagnostic Trouble Codes

96 & later are OBD2 systems.

Without OBD2.