code58

DG- Do you mean ISN'T worth the hassle???

Why don't you see if you can find out if the motor in the E-bay mirror is the same as the OEM mirror. If it is, just take the motor out of the new mirror, put it in your existing mirror and you don't have to have it painted. The motor in the original mirror is probably a $1. Chinese motor like the expensive door lock actuator motors are. Pathetic that you would even have to pay $157. for it much less $900.

Sig, is the white nylon gear strip broken? They almost always are and if so, it requires the removal of the trim in the R quarter panel and disassembly of the antenna motor housing to remove the broken piece, otherwise the new one won't go all the way down.

Our mileages all vary but with 144k mi on my DIL's RX, there is NO sign of leaky cam seals. Most of the miles have been local miles, (not the best kind of miles) and average care (5k + mi oil changes) and the trans also is original and functions just fine. I changed the trans fluid at 97k mi and it looked like engine oil. I only say this, not to discourage you from doing all those things, but only to say not all peoples experience will be the same by any stretch. My SIL put 360k mi. on a Dodge van without doing HARDLY ANYTHING to it. Almost everything was original when she traded it. . With 180k mi. on her current one, it's the same story. Experiences vary, yours probably will too. To get to the rear valve cover, yes the intake would have to come off. Be prepared that the crankshaft bolt is lock-tighted on and it calls for 150 lbs torque. You will need to lock the C/S pulley and use a breaker bar and the bolt is conventional thread (the reason for the torque and L/T). Also remember when lining up the timing marks on the pulleys with the belt that the engine slants back, so the timing marks won't be facing directly up. Was the Camry a 4 cyl. or 6? If a 6, it should be about the same, if a 4, probably QUITE a bit different. If you change the W/P, the factory manual says to remove the timing gears. I didn't have to, I just removed the long bolts and tilted it under that lip and it was no problem. If you replace the T/S, it will be a moot point because I assume you have to remove the gears to do the seals. If you're interested in the parts sources, let me know.

If it's a 2006, you need to get help from Lexus. That is simply not right. As stated in earlier posts, in all the years I spent in automotive work I have never heard of the kind of problems with A/C/Heat odor problems that I have read here on the Lexus forums. I have purchased a new car and a new truck that had the typical odor (when we drove them home) and all I did is not run on Max air and run the fan on air only for about a minute (this for about a week) before I reached my destination and the odor went away and never returned in 7 years of ownership of the car and 5 for the truck. Lexus CAN'T say to you that it's YOUR problem (on a 4 year old Lexus!)

Looks like you let them get a look at your bank account and they found it well "padded". Any decent mechanic should be able to replace the rear pads in about 10-15 min on your RX. At about $60. for the pads (max) $230.-$240. for 15 min work is what I'd call a little "PRICEY". They are some of the easiest pads to put on of any car, a women could almost do them. But then it is a Lexus isn't it ? That "free" coffee in the waiting room would put Starbucks to shame! I would use the OEM pads (because they are high quality, they're made by Akebono) but I would look for someone else to put them on.

Sorry Sam, when I went back and checked on the strut mount parts last night, it looks like you only need # 11&14. Number 14 is the one that gives the problem.

I believe that even an aftermarket upper front strut mount kit includes those 3 parts. I'll check but I'm quite sure you need all of them. Concerning the rear SM's, they don't have a bearing like the front. I've not had them out, but there isn't the same need for the parts on the rear since they don't turn like the front. The bearing is what it turns on in the front. The problem with the fronts is that the rubber mount deforms with all the pressure and strain on it and then the metal bushing gets a chance (on the bumps) to displace and then catch on the edge of a hole that it shouldn't ever pass through. Makes a hellatious racket! You have your hands full if you are able to get all that work done in one weekend! We'll paint a big red "S" on your chest if you do. I flushed the BF on my DIL's RX and was amazed that the fluid (original at about 100k mi.) was almost clean as new. I checked a couple days ago and the fluid I put in 40k + mi ago still looks that way. My wife's '02 Camry still looks that way. I think the Japanese put a higher grade of rubber in their brake parts than we do. Same son & DIL have an '08 Suburban and that brake fluid is already nasty at less than 30k mi. I pulled the plug on the rear axle on the RX at almost 100k and the original fluid looked like it had just been put in. Clean as new so I left it alone. :)

Sam- I didn't replace the tensioner itself even when I went back in later to replace the other stuff. It operated perfectly when I reinstalled it the 1st time and the second time it took a little nudge to go to full tension on it. I probably should have replaced it, but was in the process of finishing up and didn't want to hold the job up. I have checked it since then and the belt tension is good but I would replace it if there were a 3rd time. I doubt that there will be.

I'll give you my experience and you can chose what you do with it. I have spent my life in automotive work, so am not a beginner. First thing I would say is DO NOT buy aftermarket parts for your RX. You can but OEM parts online for often LESS than aftermarket parts and the OEM parts that T/L uses are some of the finest parts I have ever seen. No comparison to aftermarket parts period! If you are interested in good prices on OEM parts at steep discount, PM me. Whether you chose to replace the W/P and upper idler pulley is up to you, but I cut the parts apart that I replaced (the old ones) with a die grinder and a cut-off blade and they were like new!, at around 130K mi. The one exception was the lower tensioner pulley and it was BONE DRY of grease on the bearing. The amazing part was I mic'd the bearings and they ALL mic'd EXACTLY the same, even though they had obviously run dry for some time. (All balls in all bearings are the same size) The race was perfect also and the bearing was perfectly smooth, though it was bone dry. I believe the reason it ran dry and the others didn't at all is because it is a single row of bearings and all the others ar a double row of bearings. It is the only thing I would encourage you to replace (along with the TB). If you wish further detail, please PM me. Roger

1st question- I'm almost positive a strut mount should include #'s 11,12&14. At 155k mi., I would say it is definitely time for new struts. You have to remember, struts don't generally bounce like shocks do when they're worn out. You should be able to tell a definite difference with new ones if those are original. I would also go with the Lexus OEM struts. There MAY be a better strut out there but that would require some research to determine. Otherwise, I'd just go with the OEM.

Sorry, So. Cal. That's still too much money! There are definitely worse engines to change. That is what I'd do. See if you have any independent Lexus or Toyota repair shops in your area. Any shop that works on Toyota should have no problem changing a Lexus engine, they're the same thing. I personally probably would stay away from "General" independent shops that work on ALL brands of cars. Not saying they couldn't do a good job, just better to have someone who sticks with a particular brand.

$3k is OUTRAGEOUS! I have had the RX300 engine out and I would LOVE to do it for $1500. And yes I am a professional. Not soliciting.

Larry- The sensor they sent you IS correct for B1S1 but the code SHOULD BE P1135 instead of P0135 It is actually an A/F ratio sensor. When you say it doesn't LOOK like the same sensor, what do you mean by that? It should look identical to the one that's on the car if it is the original. The P1135 points directly to the rear A/F ratio sensor heater malfunction. The P0135code would be a generic code for the same thing, but an oxygen sensor which is NOT what you have. It is found on the rear of the engine (next to the firewall) in the exhaust pipe and must be accessed by use of a lift or a jack from underneath. Do a search, there is plenty on it, with pictures, and is the most common one to go out but also the most difficult one to change. It won't hurt to drive it that way until you have a chance to change it or have someone change it. It is the same sensor as the one that you see when you open the hood and look straight down, just a lot harder to get to. If you need more help, come back and one of us here will help you.

For those of you who have similar type of problems, be sure and remember to try a "reset". Since I don't think these motors go bad that often, and the window system is indeed a "system" (which means it goes through a computer) and that "system" needs a reset sometimes. Try running the window all the way up and HOLDING the switch for about 4-5 seconds before you let go. That should reset the computer brain to know what upper limit is and the other operation as well as limits are determined by that. That problem wouldn't exist on a car that doesn't have so much complexity that it requires the computer to manage it all. I have serious questions about the RX (poster Jon) needing a motor when the window would travel up and down 2 or 3 times. Sounds to me like the "parts changers" took advantage of a situation that they wouldn't have made any money on if they simply "reset" it for him. After a lifetime of working in automotive I am still embarrassed by the dishonesty and incompetence of some auto shops, be they dealerships or independent. Good Luck!

Ally- exactly what sensor did you replace? Whenever you get a flurry of DTC's like that, it is safe to assume they can't all be legitimate, it's brain is scrambled. You have to delete the codes and see what comes up FIRST and address that diagnostically. If you have a scanner (everyone who owns a car that is out of warrantee these days should own one), cancel the codes and see what comes up. For kicks, cancel 'em again and see if the same thing comes up again. This should help you address the P0171 http://www.obd-codes.com/p0137 This should also help http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/lexus/ I am assuming you realize that Bank 1, sensor 1 is firewall side of the engine and Bank 2, sensor 1 is radiator side of the engine. Bank 1, sensor 2 is behind the catalytic convertor under the drivers seat. You may have known this, but better safe than sorry.

How many miles on the car and have you ever had the trans serviced?

One question- Did you try and clean the gasket with any kind of cleaner or solvent? Did you EXPOSE it to ANY KIND of solvent, gasoline, laquer thinner, or anything but open air??? That is the ONLY thing I can imagine that would cause it to swell. As I stated when I 1st cleaned (it worked fine after that) and then decided to replace it because of a medical emergency and the car would be 1200 mi away for over 6 mo., both times that I had the IACV off, with 7 1/2 year and 97k mi on the original gasket, it looked like new and fit perfectly both times. I can't imagine, having worked in automotive all my life, that simply being exposed to air or warm temps would have any affect on the gasket. The car now has over 140k mi and over 11 years on it and that original gasket is still holding perfectly. I TOTALLY agree with the impact driver approach (hammered type). Needle nose vice grips are the second choice if one does not have the impact driver.

RMK- I use an Auto X-Ray 6000 which is a pretty nice scanner but I don't have a laptop (am a Macie anyway) so I couldn't comment on that program, but on the Club Lexus Forum, one of the moderators (screen name Lexmex) does use that type program and is quite familiar with it. I know it will give you a TON of useful information. You might do a search on that forum or even post for him (don't know if you could PM if you are a newbie there). You can't be too well educated!

My mistake. The first code was P0125. I hope this is not as serious. This should give you some insight into the P0125 code. As stated before, the code is often a signpost at best. I would advise researching to see what is the MOST LIKELY thing to trigger that DTC. (Hint- it MIGHT NOT be what would seem logical- not saying it's not, just that you can't take codes for face value). Check this out. http://www.obd-codes.com/p0125 Good Luck!

I have posted quite a few times on this subject over the last 2 or 3 years. I JUST posted a response on this subject on "Club Lexus". 60K mi is patently absurd and even 90K mi is unnecessary in my mind. I addressed all of these issues in that post. I honestly believe many, if not most, of the RX's could go the life of the vehicle without breaking a TB. (I AM NOT recommending that!) I also address the reason for that thinking in the post on CL.

I have to ask the question- why do you have to replace the evaporator? Evaporators do go bad, BUT very rarely. Before I went to all that work, I would want to be POSITIVE that it was bad and also have some kind of an idea of why it went bad, since it is so rare.

RMK- as you may know all 3 of the P1130 codes refer to the rear A/F ratio sensor (on the exhaust manifold by the firewall). I have to say that it is POSSIBLE, but highly unlikely that that sensor would fail on ALL counts at the same time. There is no P015 code, but there is a P0015 ("B" camshaft position- overretarded, bank 1). I have a piece if advice- buy an inexpensive scanner so that you can do your own code reading. You can buy them as cheap as $40.-$50. and a pretty nice one for non-professional use for $100. The 1st thing you want to do in a case such as yours is hook up and cancel ALL codes. Then see what comes back, if any! When you get a flurry of codes like that you NEVER chase those codes. I have seen many times where NO codes come back. If you have code or codes come back, deal with THAT code. If you want, cancel again and see if the same code comes back and how soon. Then you begin to get some clarity to the picture. Also, codes are a ROAD SIGN, not a laser pointer. Sometimes they will point at the problem, sometimes in the general direction, sometimes in the wrong direction! Please understand that! It's a lot easier (and better) if you have your own scanner or code reader to have the flexibility that I mentioned. Meantime, do ALL the research you can in "Searches" on the forums to gain an education so that you won't be at the mercy of the "parts changers" and end up with your pockets turned inside out! Take this advice, it's GOOD advice, and it's FREE! Good Luck!

Tjn- What ALL was replaced when the struts were replaced? Meaning was ANYTHING else replaced? The reason I ask is the upper strut mounts are a wear issue with the RX. I don't know about the rear but the front make a hellashous clunk when you go over a bump because of the deterioration of the rubber in the upper center of the mount. I would have thought that the shop that did the struts would have replaced that (if the rear has it) when they did the struts, especially when they put the 2nd set in. When does it make this "quick loud thunk"? Just driving down the road, or going over something like a pot hole or railroad tracks? I can't imagine that the spring could be the problem, unless the rubber pad the spring sits on is worn out. Coil springs in and of themselves shouldn't make any noise.

Tom- I think this is the reason you haven't had the rear main seal problem. I do have the pictures from when I replaced my DIL's at 97k mi (it had been leaking since about early 80's) but being computer technologically challenged i don't know how to post 'em. Gotta find the time to do that one of these days. It was absolutely cinderized and had cut a pretty good groove in the CS. Had always had dino oil used and changed at about 5k mi. Not good for this particular engine. Son still uses dino at about 5k but I got him switched to Castrol at least. :D