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Do you know where your sight glass is? I believe it's right down in front. Do you know how a sight glass works? Have someone turn the A/C on and turn it down, maybe 60 degrees so that it should be on at all times and run it up to about 1500 RPM on the tach and you watch the sight glass and see if it has bubbles in it. If it does, how many, just a few or is it solid foam? I'm personally betting it is the blend door actuators on the R side behind the glove box. Report back.

I would definitely try Auto RX. Don't know if it will allow the rings to free up and reestablish compression or not, may be a long shot. But if anything has a chance of doing it, it would probably be Auto RX, certainly not likely to be a flush, more than likely will flush some money out of your wallet, but not much else. Auto RX does do what very little else is able to do, actually dissolve the baked crud and sludge or whatever else isn't supposed to be there. Lenore has reported similar results using the German Castrol, which I believe is a full synthetic oil. I would certainly try one of these, can't hurt and a fairly good chance of helping, with a cost that is a GREAT DEAL cheaper than any alternative. Good Luck!

Joe- Better to restrict the airflow a little than have to replace an expensive A/C condenser. The cars for the last 10 or probably 15 years are VERY thin material (on most ALL cars) and very much subject to road debris damage. I remember a poster who said he had a hole in his A/C condenser on his NEW RX, from road debris, and neither Lexus (rightly so) nor his insurance co. would cover it, and he had 800 mi. on the car! I would go with a fine screen like window screen (anything larger hole would let too much through). I seriously doubt you will notice any difference in the interior cooling. Both my DIL's RX and my wife's Camry have quite a lot of fine road debris "rash" on the lower condenser from the garbage picked up by the air generated by other cars, and they are both in So. Cal. and have never been on anything but paved roads, mostly So. Cal. freeways. Every car I have owned in Cal. (45 years) ends up with a lot of sand deposited around the engine, all from the freeway! There is a LOT of stuff that is heavier than sand too. Have had several chips from decent sized rocks. Put the screen on the lower opening and save yourself a condenser! :D

I believe it's a round cylinder like device at on end of the condenser, not large round like you're used to thinking of a drier as being, but small round, maybe an inch or a little larger, but runs up the end of the condenser, possibly full height. I've never changed 1, I've only seen pictures of them. Artbuc recently replaced his condenser and drier, so he could tell you exactly what it looked like.

Emory- though I don't use a steam cleaner, I use a pressure washer (couldn't live without one), I do take precaution to cover sensitive stuff, I have never had a problem with getting things wet. I have a compressor, so I do run it immediately after and blow it down good with a long wand blower. It's important not to get water in past the seal on the COP's. If you do, and it's npt dried out before you run it, you have big problems with the water turning into steam around the plug and COP and not being able to get out of there. Probably best to pull the COP's after cleaning and making sure no water got in there.

The thing you need to look for when you buy engine gasket silicone or any other product for cleaning or sealing is to check for "sensor safe" on the can or package. It's not just for that which is in direct contact with with the sensors, but even if used to seal the pan for instance (they use silicone in the building of the engine on the pan in place of a gasket), because the fumes from that can get in the crankcase and eventually out the exhaust and contaminate the sensors and destroy them. Anything used around the engine that has that potential should have "sensor safe" on it, or don't use it.

Some reasonable, some high- just one man's opinion. :D

Tmastres- Remember 1 thing about the A/F ratio sensor, if the code is for the heater in it (as was the code that you got, heater specific), it has little affect on the running, and won't really ever affect much of anything if you didn't change it. That is only for the codes that designate heater, not the other functions of the sensor. If you research how a wide band A/F rs functions, you'll understand why. If in a real cold climate or in the winter, it will make a little difference in how it runs, but won't hurt anything. My suggestion would be when you crawl under to take a look, shoot the threads with some rust buster of some type. Then get a sensor socket and try and break it loose. You're operating on your time table, not it's. when you HAVE to change it you know it will come out. Harbour Freight Tools sells a really nice sensor socket for about $5. You really should use a sensor socket because when you put the new one in there isn't a chance of damaging it like there is with a crescent wrench. Don't want to have buy a new $180. sensor for the lack of a $5. correct socket. The one from HF is really nice quality too. You do have to be careful what kind of chemicals or products you use around any of the sensors because they can be contaminated and rendered worthless.

Very true Lenore, The Toyota dealer close to me doesn't seem to have a problem with selling parts for the RX, but 1 problem seems to be that they are not provided with parts books for the Lexus, so even if they suspicion the part may cross over, they have no way of confirming that. If you have the old part or the correct # they can probably supply if they stock it, but no way to look it up. Not like GM where most GM dealers could order for any GM car, no matter what the sign out front said. I think Ford is the same. Not so with Toyota/Lexus. Interestingly, when I got the last timing belt for the RX, they had no way to look it up at Toyota, so I just said give me one for a Sequoia, and it was correct, though it had a different part # on it.

Tmastres- You live in Cal., and though close to the ocean, it still doesn't have any of the rust problems that most of the people who had seized A/F sensors. Mostly from the Rust Belt. I replaced both in my DIL's RX and had no problem at all, came right out with a box wrench. I'm the one who suggested using an acetylene torch, but that was for the guys who were complaining about being seized tight, unable to move, even with rust buster. Shouldn't have that problem in most of Cal. anyway. You really lucked out being a front sensor, as apposed to the rear one. Glad it worked out for you, even without the help of the Toyota dealer. :)

Mikey- I appreciate your clarifying the info. Yes the RX does have the aux cooler in the R front fender well area. I have even thought about removing the W/S washer bottle and arranging something somewhere else and installing a small fan to at least give it some usefulness. I fear that what Lenore said about the planetary is one of the culprits, no matter how good the maintenance. She (DIL) has 133k mi. on the RX now, so that makes me a little nervous. C'mon Roger, think positive, think positive! No problems of any kind yet... but... I did take the bulb (3rd brake) out 2 or 3 times and re-insert it, so not sure exactly what the problem is- just didn't have any time to trouble shoot it. the contacts are definitely pristine- nice thing about So. Cal. Thanks again Mikey. :)

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I'm betting you're not gonna like the ride very well at 40 psi. I'll bet you can tell the difference between what they call for and the 35. I have noticed that on my DIL's RX that at recommended pressure they all tend to wear on both inside and outside, so it is indicating underinflation. A lot of (car) manufacturers recommend pressure that is really too low for good mileage and wear, just to get a nice ride.

Thanks Mikey for the input. I have never had reason to even look in the spare tire area. I am only the mechanic, it's my DIL's car. I will look and see if it has the converter and if anyone has ever installed the fuse. It has never had a tow hitch on it so I know it's never been used to tow. I will check those things out. I have replaced at least 1 bulb before and the "light out" bulb went right out. Funny thing is this time, once I had replaced all the bulbs, it went out for about 2 brake appl. and then came back on. I hope they did solve the trans. problem on this one with the extra cooling because she has 133k mi. now and the trans. works just fine. That fluid was nasty at 97k mi. when I did a complete change, and lucked out when I ordered the filter and got a screen to replace the fiber one that had been installed at 32k mi.

Thanks for that input Filehorse- The light I'm talking about is indeed the little amber car on the R lower corner that has the tail lights that are showing beams coming out of them (rear light out). I also checked the fluid level and it was up good. I had flushed the system with all new fluid within the last year or less. My son put new rear pads on it about 2 or 3 weeks ago and I don't know whether he pushed the fluid back upstream or let it out the bleeders, but I would think the light should be strictly electrical sensing. I should see them within the next couple of days, I'll check the converter and double check the other things. I just didn't have time to do any checking after I replaced the bulbs and made sure they were all working.

Lenore, I am assuming you were responding to the OP rather than me. My DIL's RX doesn't have the tow package- I may have to retract that, I know it doesn't have a trailer hitch. I have never had reason to look down there, I'll have to do that. Do they all have the aux. trans. cooler? Hers does have that. It puzzled me because I have replaced at least 1 bulb before and the light went right out. If it has the the converter, does that have to stay in there? There is NO chance of them EVER pulling anything with it. If that is the problem, I would rather remove it if that is possible.

I'm interested in this also. The rear light out light was on on in my DIL's RX when they left the car here while they took a short vacation to Hawaii. I have a good supply of bulbs but didn't have those bulbs. I replaced the 3rd brake light bulb and that worked but light still on. Both outside bulbs were burned, so I did the "thump test" on the other 2. (hold the bulb firmly between thumb and forefinger) give it 3 or 4 good thumps with obscene finger on other hand. If it is good, IT WILL NOT BREAK THE FILAMENT. If it breaks, it was ready to burn out sometime within the next couple of months anyway. One of them broke, but the other would not. I replaced the 3 bad ones, light goes out for 1 or 2 brake presses then comes back on. All 5 lights work fine but light won't go out now. I replace the 4th BL bulb and the light wouldn't ever go out though all 5 bulbs light just fine. Don't think any code should have been set, but didn't have time to try a scan and reset, though I don't think that light should involve setting a code or turning it off anyway. It didn't in the past. I used the standard GE bulbs, not the LL. All sockets look virgin (dry So. Cal.- no corrosion here)

I'm betting that the antenna mast is broken off at the bottom. (actually not the mast but the plastic gear strip that actually runs it up and down) That is a fairly common problem with the antennas . My DIL's has broken 2 now. Try and pull up a little on it when it won't go down, rather than pushing down. If it comes up, you have a broken gear strip and will most likely have to remove the antenna from the car and take it apart to get that broken piece out. As stated, you don't have to replace the whole antenna assembly, you can buy the mast and gear strip. Once you get the broken piece out, it's easy to get it to eat the new antenna and mast. It's been a while since I did the last one, but I think you may have to remove the top nut (?) to pull up on it, and to get it out. Good Luck! :)

You can't replace it because it is an integral part of the condenser. You can replace dessicant bag but you shouldn't have to unless your system was open for an extended period. Did your mechanic quickly and carefully plug the refrigerant lines while he was installing the new compressor? I got the dryer as part of the kit, that is the dessicant bag. Do you know how to replace it? The compressor warranty says it is covered if you replace the dryer. You have to discharge the system. I assume you can do it without removing the condenser but you have to work from the bottom. I did mine with a new condenser off the vehicle. After installing the new bag you will have to evac and re-charge your system. Are you stuttering again Art? Wasn't it a good experience and sense of accomplishment to do it yourself? Takes a lot of the mystery that the mechanics put in it out, doesn't it? With the equipment paid for by doing it yourself, you shouldn't ever have to pay to have that kind of work done ever again. I kept most of my tools (4 huge rollaways packed full) when I retired because I couldn't stand the thought of not being able to do whatever I needed to do. I love to help people and to learn and the way things change and will continue to (with the government now in the auto business), if you don't continue to be involved, you're behind the curve in a hurry.

To put it mildly, that is highway robbery as far as labor to change. Even someone not mechanically minded should be able to change those 2 belts in that time. A mechanic with a lift (to get to the P/S belt) should be able to have both of those changed and have a cup of coffee in a half an hour. I have a hard time believing an independent wouldn't do it for half of that or less. When I changed them (1st time) on my DIL's RX at somewhere around 120k mi. they were in pretty good shape. Some very fine cracking on the serpentine but in no danger of failing, and the P/S even better shape.

Well its been about 3 months now and my problem hasn't got any worse. However a ASE mechanic told me its not the differential. He thinks its the drive shafts to the diff that cause the wobble and vibration. Also I seem to have bad axles in the front with insufficient greasing. I am not sure of whether to replace them or just grease and reinsert. Also my muffler does have leak which probably is causing the noise vibration in the passenger seating area more towards the driver than towards the passenger side. I also happen to have thrown the check engine line codes P0125 and P1135. One problem right after another. You can grease the axle CV joints by just pulling the clamp off the large end and inserting grease. If you're having problems with them anyway, it can't hurt anything. At least try and get whatever grease they use for CV joints. They may try and sell you just regular chassis grease, but what comes with the joints is different anyway. If you can't reinstall the clamp (some take a special tool to install), you can just use a long heavy zip-tie. Concerning the hum and vibration- a lot of people don't think about the motor mounts causing that kind of thing, but they do. I'm pretty sure the mounts on your car are hydraulic (fluid filled) and some times when they start to go bad they leak, and sometimes they can go bad without leaking, but still cause vibration and roughness (also harmonic hum in the vehicle). Use a mechanics stethoscope while someone HOLDS the brakes and runs up some RPM with it in drive and touch the mounts and listen for hum. Also in reverse.

That's what I meant Karl when I said "twins". I probably didn't make it clear enough. I meant 2 exhaust valves side by side on 1 side and opposite them 2 intake valves side by side, as in twins.

Are you saying the valves could hit each other?? If so, how in the world would that be physically possible?? I was hoping to do this all today, but my re-ring/re-seal kit still hasnt made it here from Utah after 10 days, and the machine shop still isnt done with the heads after 14 days What ever happend to good customer service???? You're not dissapointing us Dura-Max, but your machine shop is!

Karl, I don't claim much of any knowledge in this particular area at all, but aren't the intake and exhaust valves each twins (side by side)? In that case I don't think it would be possible to have the degree of float (if float is even possible with the rev limiters they routinely put in the PCM's today) that would allow the valves to collide. That would be a huge amount of float. Maybe someone has a knowledgeable technical answer to the question. From the picture that Lenore posted of the block without heads, the divots in the pistons appear that the valves appose at an angle.

Ditto here, anyone who wants an aftermarket CAI is welcome to it. It MAY not be the problem, but I have read WAY too many problems with them causing lean conditions, which are not a good situation.