Sanpete

Thanks again, Micah. If it's tight from under the car, it's probably not that easy to splice in the universal and do it well, as you say. Denso does offer the same sensor in universal form, but the one with the connector is fairly cheap now, $42 with shipping at Amazon (Denso 234-4169). I came across some stories like yours about the gasket causing fault codes. One guy finally replaced his and saved a bunch compared to what the shop wanted for replacing the cat. With about 165K miles, this is the first code I've had since I got the car with 141K. Hopefully the gasket and other sensors will hold on a while longer. The only other thing I've had to do was replace an o-ring on the power steering pump--happily only one, the one that can be gotten to easily, was leaking. I'm so happy it wasn't the high-pressure hose. So far so good.

That was the question, whether that would be an easy way or not. May be harder for all I know. But thanks for your advice.

Thanks Micah. Makes me wonder if it wouldn't be easier to use a universal sensor and just cut the wires from underneath instead of messing with the connector from inside. How much room is there for that? Or is it easy to get the gas pedal off and on and get at the connector?

If I understand the comments from 1998 and 1999 LS400 owners in this thread, you have to get at the wiring connector for the bank 1 sensor 1 (pre-cat) O2 sensor from under the carpet on the driver's side. RCRFAN3 makes it sound like the sensor can be accessed from there too, but Micah says you get to that from under the car. Anyone care to clarity or correct that? Can both the connector and sensor be accessed from one place, or must one do surgery from two sides?

While it's possible that some high octane fuel burns more slowly, the octane rating isn't a measure of that and it isn't why higher octane fuels are advantageous. It used to be that some gas brands advertised more additives/detergents for their premium fuel, but that's not common now. Not sure how different premium fuels are anymore, apart from octane rating.

Try asking here (if they have this in the UK): http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/ind...hp?showforum=48 Or here, if your German is OK: http://euro.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showforum=6

Could still be the alternator. If you let the car idle for 20 minutes, that probably didn't charge your battery much, especially if the alternator isn't working as well as it should.

I'd get the alternator checked, since it's not hard to do. I've heard of quality control problems with rebuilds, though most are fine. Maybe the folks who sold it to you would test it, if you trust them.

Interesting discussion. VMF hasn't confused anything. He was just telling you how he prevented the engine from turning, by blocking the flywheel. Good that you're being cautious.

Toyota dealer should be fine. (Don't have any local recommendations.)

I'm too cheap to buy either (I only looked at higher-mileage ones I could get for under $10K), but here a couple things to consider. The 90K service, which includes replacing the timing belt and water pump, costs a thousand or so. Sounds like you'll soon be paying for that with the 98 but not the 00. On the other hand, the 98 has a new starter, which is an expensive repair when needed, though it may not be needed on the 00 for a good while. Close call.

Where did you get the new alternator and battery? I wonder if they're the right ones for your car. May be underpowered. You're talking about the headlights dimming, right?

Wow. That must have been quite a deer. Sad to see. I assume you fared better than the car. I live on a highway in deer country, and find dead deer hit by cars in front of my house several times a year. Within a few years I hit five or six myself with my old Camry wagon, which kept on running, and I retired a stretched Dodge Ram Van equipped with camper stuff and a wheelchair lift when I hit a deer full on going 80 mph (that's me, not the deer). I started driving 55 at night after that, and haven't hit a deer since (about eight years). Maybe just luck, but probably not. Not sure if it's that it allows me more time to brake or if the deer can adjust to the car better at that speed or what. They do jump out in front of you sometimes. Don't know how much 4WD you need where you are, but my biggest problem with my 98 LS is the snow handling, even with snow mode. It's not so much driving on the road as getting to the road from my driveway, which slants up slightly towards the road. Might get easier when I get new tires, but it's always going to be a problem with such a heavy car and only two powered wheels.

What tires, Jify? (Ever tried all-seasons in snow? Mine, old Michelin Energys, aren't so great.)

When I saw the thread title I thought, "Oh, that's me." But it's balmy here in the winter compared to where you are. I recall a Central Alaskan asking about similar things at clublexus. Not sure how helpful the answers are, but check out this thread, and you might pm the poster. http://clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=247416 Good luck. Brrrrr.

As I understand it, based on the reports here and elsewhere, the 98-00 engine is an interference engine. There is some controversy over whether the 95-97 is also an interference engine. I'd be glad to see some truly authoritative resolution of this, as I've seen "authorities" cited on both sides. I'd think the repair manual or an experienced Lexus tech would be good sources, if anyone has access to them.

It appears from the service records that the timing belt/water pump were done at 120K on my 98. The previous owner apparently felt it was worth the risk to wait. It's undoubtedly true that the chance of failure was small. But keep in mind that if your belt fails you'll likely have catastrophic engine damage. Though an inspection can see some problems, some mechanics say you can't always tell by an inspection how close a belt or pulley is to failure.

Rumor is that you have to switch the instrument cluster to change kms to miles. (This rumor includes reports of owners having this done at dealers, for several hundred dollars.)

The higher temp for your front wheel does mean something (it's doing more braking than the other wheels), but it may not be related to your other troubles. You'll want to check the brakes on that wheel, though. When you say that the others don't report the same rpm swing, do you mean they have rpm swings but of different amounts? (Because surging in neutral is rpm swings.) Do check the wiring along the trunk hinge for the parking brake light problem.

Strongly agree with nc211 about the warranty issue. They should have fixed this under warranty, and are still bound to do so because of their misleading you about it when it was under warranty (whether it was an honest mistake or not--it's hard to see how they could have missed it, though). Don't let this go; it will decrease your car's performance and resale value.

Since money's a concern, take a closer look at the 91 with 216K miles. If it has been well maintained, if it has no apparent problems (might be worth it to pay a Toyota mechanic to check it out), and especially if the timing belt and water pump have been replaced recently, it might be a better deal for you. You could make a lower offer, due to the mileage, and see. Doesn't hurt to make an offer. Have you checked the Carfax report for the cars you're considering? It's especially important to verify mileage since a fair number of early LS's have had their odometers replaced, and not always with the correct mileage. Don't refer to Kelley Blue Book for prices; they're insane, based on asking prices, not selling prices. Edmunds.com is a better starting point, especially for buyers. (Be sure to do the complete appraisal process, with mileage, color, options, etc.) If you're looking at the LS because you really want an LS, then go for it. But if you're just looking for a reliable car, there may be cheaper alternatives where maintenance is concerned, as others have said. But they might not be cheaper if they aren't really just as reliable, which few cars are. Even other Toyotas aren't quite as reliable as the LS, on average. Subarus are great for snow, but not as reliable as Toyotas. You're going to need good tires for winter if you get an LS, probably snow tires, or at least all-seasons that perform better than average in snow. Rear-wheel drive, you know, and the traction control option is a mixed bag on the early models. You might want to put some extra weight in the trunk for better traction.

While you're waiting for an answer, mind explaining why you want to keep it from locking up? Just curious.

Just pm LexLS or contact him through his site.

It could be your MAF sensor, but not necessarily. As I understand it, when you disconnect it your computer will essentially override some other sensors too, hiding all kinds of potential causes. If the part is old anyway, it wouldn't hurt to start by replacing it and see if it fixes the problem. They do fail eventually. You can get it cheaper online (search here or at google for parts suppliers). But if no one here can give more definite advice, I'd call a local Lexus or Toyota dealer and ask what the most likely cause is--they're often quite helpful, when they want to be. Check your rear wheels after the parking brake light has been on and see if one of them is hotter than the other, which would indicate sticking on that wheel. If not, it might be that you have a loose or frayed wire somewhere. A common problem for your year LS is fraying of the wires that pass along the trunk hinge--you can inspect them easily. I haven't heard of this particular problem coming from that source, though. Otherwise I'd suspect the wiring up front or the parking brake release sensor, which I know nothing about. Hopefully someone with more experience with 1st gens will chime in soon, but it can sometimes take a little while. Good luck. (You could also ask at clublexus while you're waiting.)

Cool. All the suspense will soon be over.