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GSinFL

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Everything posted by GSinFL

  1. It is important to note the location of the leak first. Is there fluid on the inside of any wheel? If so then start there, they may not have tightened the bleed screw and dont want to admit, or they stripped it. Or you had a bad caliper o-ring (Leaking) which is maybe why you went to have the system bled in the first place. It may be the master cylinder...If it's the master cylinder you should be able to see evidence (leaking) around the lines or where it meets the booster (on the bottom of where it bolts up) sometimes you may have to pull the thing apart to really be sure. There is a plunger type deal in there and other o rings that sometimes go bad due to rust... Either way it is very important to have the whole thing checke because of the risk that it wont stop properly...GOOD LUCK Man!!!!
  2. what's so wrong with pushing the fluid back upstream, it is a negligible amount of fluid and if proper fluid maint has been done or will be done later in regards to flushing then there is no need to open the bleeder. If you open the bleeder with one hand try and compress the piston on the caliper with the other hand and close the bleeder before you introduce air into the system I think you might want to reconsider. with every car or truck that I've ever done a brake job on I've always used the old pad as something to put 2 flat screw drivers on like a scissor jack and just slowly compressed the piston enough to make room for the new pads. I'm not familiar with the abs system with the rx but pushing fluid backwards in the system really hasn't been an issue for the last 15 years at least on most other manufacturers. If I'm wrong enlighten me. unless you have a bad pulsation when braking you won't need to machine the rotors, keep in mind though if the rotors are not machined the pads will take a little longer to seat in to the rotor because of potential grooves etc.... I use a very similar technique, I do not open the system unless I am flushing out the old Brake fluid for new brake fluid, i do it once a year...
  3. May want to pull the blower assembly out to make sure nothing has come apart in there....or a rock, twig or something may have entered in there and is interferring... good luck!
  4. HI there, I have been using the NAPA 1515 which is considerably larger than the factory filter, same flow rate confirmed by NAPA tech person behind the counter. I use royal purple and the NAPA gold 1515. You may want to do your own research on this to see if this set up will work for you! Cheers B)
  5. Just talked to someone regarding their 17" chrome rims special ordered for their GS300. I have a GS400 with 17" silver rims. Are all of the 17" rims basically the same width? I want to make sure my tires will fit the other rims if I purchase them. Any insight will be helpful...thanks
  6. I have a 2000 GS400 and I also had a slight "chirping" sound that seemed to go away after the car ran for a little bit. I thought it was the bearing in the idler or tensioner pulleys....so I went to AutoZone and bought a Goodyear Gatorback Serpentine Belt. I went home and pulled off the old belt, spun the bearings after taking off the idler pulley and no noise or dragging...felt pretty good. Same with the other bearing...Upon closer inspection of the belt, I noticed that it was pretty worn and it looked like metallic was showing in the grooves. Anyways, I installed the new belt...no more noise. It was the belt! Good luck...35.00 repair.
  7. I have a 94 GS300 with no cats, hehehe Apexi Exhaust and Cold Air Intake...and I have a GS400. I love the V8...not much difference in Gas mileage...huge diff in power, especially from a dead stop, the 6 cyl is just too slow to get moving...once the weight is rolling it runs real strong. But the V8 is like that all the time...Go V8!!!!
  8. I was told that after you change plugs, clean/replace filters and throttle body...to disconnect the battery. Then reconnect it, start the car and let it idle for 20 minutes to adapt itself to the changes...let us know what works!
  9. OK I got these in there finally...and I must say it was well worth the effort! Steering feels tighter, responsive and more road feel...I also did the rotors, pads and new tires....WOW. Next I want the Cusco lower strut, an upper strut bar and poly sway bar bushings...It should really improve the handling once I get all this done. How long did it take you ? Did you have it up on a rack or under a shadetree ? Where did you purchase the bushings ? We crave info here at LOC. Did you take pictures ? BTW Welcome to the club I did it in my garage, the whole job was about 5 hours to do including the rotors and pads, cleaning every little piece and such...I didn't take pictures unfortunately...but I recommend getting the car high enough so you have elbow room. Oh and I forgot, I also changed the oil and filter with the Purple stuff as well. Next I'm doing plugs and removing and cleaning throttle body. After that I need to start to look for all of the parts to do the timing belt...I will take pictures then and post them. What's the purple stuff ? oil filter and oil. Yeah, Royal Purple and Mobil filter...wasn't expecting the oil to be purple...
  10. OK I got these in there finally...and I must say it was well worth the effort! Steering feels tighter, responsive and more road feel...I also did the rotors, pads and new tires....WOW. Next I want the Cusco lower strut, an upper strut bar and poly sway bar bushings...It should really improve the handling once I get all this done. How long did it take you ? Did you have it up on a rack or under a shadetree ? Where did you purchase the bushings ? We crave info here at LOC. Did you take pictures ? BTW Welcome to the club I did it in my garage, the whole job was about 5 hours to do including the rotors and pads, cleaning every little piece and such...I didn't take pictures unfortunately...but I recommend getting the car high enough so you have elbow room. Oh and I forgot, I also changed the oil and filter with the Purple stuff as well. Next I'm doing plugs and removing and cleaning throttle body. After that I need to start to look for all of the parts to do the timing belt...I will take pictures then and post them.
  11. OK I got these in there finally...and I must say it was well worth the effort! Steering feels tighter, responsive and more road feel...I also did the rotors, pads and new tires....WOW. Next I want the Cusco lower strut, an upper strut bar and poly sway bar bushings...It should really improve the handling once I get all this done.
  12. Tried searches but did not find anything on rack bushings - DIY...anywaysI bought some Polurethane ones and I will give it a go later today. Running out to get a punch and mallet, any tips you may have would be appreciated. Once it's done I will report back to see if it was worth the 54.00 spent for the parts + sh Thanks! GSinFL 2000 GS400
  13. Hello everyone, new to posting on the forum...I did a search on this topic of tire shake. I have read all of your posts and I will be looking into the hubcentric thing. I have added new front tires, with no significant improvement or change. I also plan on installing new drilled/slotted rotors and new pads...we'll see what happens. However, while I am there I would like to know if anyone here has changed out the rack bushings to polyurethane ones. The stock suspension with the 17" rims and rough roads may take an early toll or offer some wear on these, so I am curious as to your responses. I bought the car with 62,000 (now at 72,000) so I don't have a history, it would be interesting to know if the tire shake was a problem with the car when the car was purchased new? On a separate note, has anyone installed the Intrax sway bars? Looking to level the car out just a bit more than stock around the corners...nothing too radical. Anyways, thanks ahead of time for your responses... Peace
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