odessit

Rear crossmember is rusted to the point that I think only 2 out of 4 bolts are holding it in place. Car has around 210k on it (not driven much over last few years and was seating outside). Does not look great, but... overall ok mechanically. Should I fix it?

To add my 0.02. Highest quality Napa disks (gold ?) should be good choice. I used them for ES300 and Cadillac and my mechanic was impressed with the quality of machining. Not the cheapest but reasonably priced. Choice of pads - ceramic or regular is more driven by a choice of driving. I personally did not feel much of a difference with ceramic ones. Akebono bought from Tirerack had a bit of play in Toyota front calipers. Not a safety issue, but duly noted by my mechanic. So I would suggest buying pads from Lexus or Toyota (if Toyota fit per comments above)

Done. Left the driver side window not working. This is a good lesson - even though the body is the same between 97 and 99 - wiring harness was changed in 08/98 and the door innards are not 100% compatible. Overall this is reasonable job even for somebody who never done this before. Once you get the inner pannel out - get the speaker out, disconnect all connectors, remove the clips attaching harness to the door, the only connector that is a pain is at the very "back" of the door - need to get you hand inside of the door, squezze on connector and pull it out. I disconnected the door stop, then the door from the hinges - not from the body as it seems to be more difficult, moved it a bit away from the car, carefully pulled the wiring harness out, and removed the door, attached new one and re-assembled.

Does anybody have wiring diagram for left front (driver side) power window motor for 99 ES300? This is one of the differences in wire harnesses and I am using old wire harness from 97 ES300. The connector to power window motor (I assume that this is the motor) has more wires in 99 ES300. Mine only has two. Swapping them seems like a royal pain. Or am I missing something and it is easy. Still plenty of time to do this if I can find good instructions.

Thank you for information. I found the door of the same color from ES300 99 (mine is 97). I know it will not be perfect color match anyway, but should be ok for now. The new door seems to be in good condition. Unfortunately, the wire harness is cutoff so I will need to use my original harness. I took the new door apart and after some fiddling was able to get the wire harness out. This was my test run - if I can not do this - no need to take my working door apart. But... it seems like Toyota changed the wire harnesses in August of 98. 97 wire harness is part# 82152-33700 the one in my new door was 82152-33870. Does anybody know what are the differences? I will put them side-by-side to look at connectors, etc. It does not look like there are any additional devices in the door. I really do not want to go through taking every door component from the old one to remount on new one. Also... Should I try to re-use tar/glue for weathershield or should I put a new bead on it? Where would I get this tar/glue? I do not think I will venture into changing the lock. Looks like more than I want to tackle. I got a key for the new door and remote should work. Worth case - can always open passengers' door first.

Hit and run accident - and drivers side front door is not looking good anymore (even though everything works). Should I try to replace the door myself (found one which should be the same color from 99 ES300)? Or let body shop deal with this? I have high deductable so insurance paid only $100. I am not mechanic, but took inside of the doors apart in my landcruiser to replace speakers. According to Haynes id does not look too bad. Main gotcha as I see it is to whether I want to replace the lock or deal with two sets of keys. Does anybody have experience with this? Thoughts on the best approach? Cheers!

Hello, I am having problems with the in-dash cd player in new to me 2007 GX 470. How hard is it to replace the unit? Does anybody have instruction? Are there other sources than the dealership for a replacement unit? Good ways to clean the unit? Thanks for your feedback!

Is there a way to get a new master key without going to a dealer? I just bought new to me GX 470 and have one black key with remote control buttons (I assume this is the master key) and one grey key. Based on what I know about Landcruisers - if you loose both master keys - you are looking for a $1000 bill as additional electronics need to be replaced. No reason to take this chance. What should I do?

I got 97 ES300, 184K. Was in NYC and after picking up the car from the garage - I hear clunking noise as I drive. Stop - and push on all four corners - not problem. Look under - the heat shield ( I believe this is what it is - pucture is attached) is barely hanging there. I raised the car and took the heat shield off. Did not want to take any chances of it falling down and hurting somebody driving behind me. The question is - do I really need this part? Cheers, Alex

Do you still have FSM? Would you part with it? I have FSM for my Land Cruiser and have to say - it is very easy to follow - much better than FSM for my Cadillac. So what would you suggest for routine service based on current mileage? Thanks for the feedback. I appreciate it.

97 ES300 - brake light indicator was going on in the morning. No brake fading or any other symptoms. Was perfect on the way home (it is still warm outside!). Opened the hood and it looked like brake fluid is a bit on the low side (when the indicator lit up). Added a little bit of brake fluid (cleaned the cap first, used a funnel). The problem disappears. Based on my understanding - this should point to brake pads being worn out. Odd thing is - I looked at the outer brake pads - and they look decent. The car was at the dealership 6 weeks ago to get a sticker and they did not metion any problems. I would assume that they would try to get me to change the pads if they would be too thin. Front pads and disks were changed at 110k, rear pads and disks - at 125k. Is it time for change again? Or could there be another reason for the brake light to go on? I will take a look for any leaks over the weekend. What else? Thanks for the feedback!

Got ES300 97, 175K on it. Runs well, driven (mostly) by wife. Had following service done (latest only is listed): transmission and differential fluid replaced at 110k coolant at 141k spark plugs - replaced with platinum - at 110K Do you, guys, think any service is needed? My thinking is that transmission/differential would be relevant, coolant - based on its condition, spark plugs - let go till 200K (90K interval) and replace together with the timing belt (done at 110K). Is transmission/differential fluid change something that can be done by a well qualified mechanic or should I leave this to Toyota dealership? Your feedback is appreciated. Cheers, Alex

My vote is Toyota dealer if you do not have trusted independent mechanic. Will be cheaper than Lexus and Toyota mechanic should know the car well - it is the same as Camry.

if the rest of the pipe is in good shape - go to your local exhaust/muffler shop - independently owned is the best - and ask them to cut the bad piece out and weld in a piece of pipe as a replacement. Should cost under $100 cash based on where you live. Proper replacement by shop terms is likely to be in $500 range and it is not any better.

Hello, I plan to look at 2002 LX470, 89K, should be in good shape. Timing belt was not changed, got bent antenna. What is fair price for the vehicle? Can I fix/replace antenna myself? (I am reasonably good but definitely not a pro). MSN Auto mentions that the electronics junction box could be a problem. Did anybody have this problem? What are the things/problem areas to look for? Is it worthwhile to get the car checked at the dealership (Toyota - $90, Lexus - $240)? Or am I better of spending more time with the car myself and relying on the paperwork? Thanks for you help! Alex

There is Interstate currently installed in the car. It is 7 years old so it is about time to replace it. Interstate Megatron, Deihard Gold and Advance Auto Titanium looks like decent choices to me. I do no think that Optima is needed for this car. What is your experience with the batteries? Thanks for the feedback, Alex

Steve, Would you still recommend Lexus of Norwood? I was at Watertown Lexus twice and am not thrilled with the service. Also thinking about checking Toyota dealerships in the area (Lexington in paricular)... Cheers, Alex several service visits in general. If you go to Lexus of Norwood, ask for one of two service advisors, Brandi or Ronni. Both very intelligent and adept women. Both of their service teams are top notch. steviej

Thanks for the feedback. Was your friends' bad experience at Watertown Lexus related to a particular mechanic or service advisor? Cheers, Alex

Hello, We will be moving to Boston area (Waltham or nearby) soon. All suggestions on good/bad places and mechanics names to take your Lexus ES300 to would be appreciated (Lexus/Toyota dealerships and independent shops). I would also be interested to get in touch with people on the forum who live in the area and work on their own cars. Cheers, Alex

all the suspension pieces seemed to be snug (at least next to the front left wheel) as far as I can tell - it was nice outside yesterday, so I took the wheel off. The car is due for the oil change anyway. I will take it to the dealer and have them check. Will post once I know more.

Hello, Got an odd problem - while driving at speeds of 40+ mph or while stopped at the lights -- there is an odd noise coming from the left/middle front part of the car. It is somewhat low tone, almost sounds like a bad ball bearing... I took the front left wheel off but do not see any loose/missing parts. Break pads have plenty of life in them. Front strut seats were replaced about a year ago (but not the struts themselves). Did anybody have a similar problem? Any suggestions? Thanks, Alex

How urgent is it for me to take care of this?

I got X-Radial from Michelin for my wife's 97 ES300 last November - highly rated by the Consumer Reports, cost under $100 at Sam's club (might be available at Costco as well). She is quite happy with them - went through the winter in Wisconsin without a problem. The only concern is that they are S rated, but as long as you do not drive fast - these should be fine. My other suggestion is Bridgestone Turanza LS-H - I have them on my 97 STS and am quite satisfied. They get pretty good reviews on tirerack.com and decent price as well.

Hello, There was a bit of greenish liquid under the top radiator hose (near the engine). Please see the pictures for details. The hose did feel a bit wet where it meets the steel part otherwise it seems to be solid. The car does not overheat. There is fair amount of pinkish deposit where the hose is attached to the metal part. Car has 138K on it. Oil change about 2500K ago (in Jan.) and looks nice (light and clear). I wiped the fluid and ran the car - did not get wet at all. Coolant was replaced about 28K ago. What is the most probable cause of the fluid? Could it be coming from somewhere else? Did anybody have similar problem? What is the cost to replace the hose? (NAPA sells it for about $15, but I do not want to mess with the replacement myself). What is a good way to check the coolant level? Thanks, Alex

The pads were replaced a bout 12 months ago (rear) and 24 months ago (front). I giess the noise is just part of life. Thanks for the feedback. Alex