BRAKATK

Hey all,

Well, after only 23k miles since I had it repaired, my moonroof won't close all the way again. The dealer says the actuator cables have broken (for the second time!!). The dealer says the warranty on the repair is 1 year/unlimited miles, so Lexus cannot repair it under warranty. They want to charge me...are you ready for it....$1200 to replace the cables. that is what I said. I asked if they could just lock it shut or somehow close it all the way and they said their technician tried and cannot. They suggested I use a block of wood or make a metal piece to hold the driver side up/shut (the passenger side is all the way up and shut). Any ideas other that coming up with $1200? Much appreciated.

Just read this and other posts on the topic. The motor running indicates a snapped cable is the likely issue. Order it off Ebay and follow the detailed instructions and you should be fine. It take less than an hour to fix.

The seller/email was "GLG Direct." Have you done a search on ebay for "Lexus GS 300 Antenna Mast?" Should be there... :)

Thanks for the pic! It does look a little banged up, but with the turbo and all inside, you should be blowing by many riders of the LA freeways! Show a pic of the motor etc when you get a chance. I have an Aristo front strut brace on mine.

Good luck!

Hey guys-Pls do a search on the forum for foglight removal replacement and you find a lot of stuff/pics etc. Also on polishing and getting rid of the yellow.

goodluck!

Sweet ride you got! Post some pics of it. Is RHD illegal? Let us know what's up.

My 93 has clear Silverstars for the fogs. What yellow bulbs are best to try?

I wrote another post (somewhere?) on this before but to sum up my experience with the ContiExtreme: it is a very grippy tire wet and dry, good value, but for me was ultimately too loud and rough riding at higher speeds to buy again.

I have removed stickers and emblems with alcohol (like rubbing alcohol) to dissolve the adhesive and not harm the paint. That's my experience-good luck!

Everyone who is modding their car should learn to do this and do it periodically after lots of "stop and go" driving. It really makes a difference on my 93 everytime I do it.

Thanks John-I will let you know how it turns out. :P

I have LLumar brand tint and it has held up great for years now. B)

Mequiar's Mirror Glaze (Cleaner, Polish, and Detailer) will make them look new again and keep them looking great. Polishing compound and a buffer can remove any stains or larger scratches. If the seal on the light has been broken for a while you can have condensation and discoloring from the inside, which would mean opening the light assembly or replacing altogether. Here is my 1993 headlight:

Hey jv-I am about to put new rear rotors and pads on this weekend. I have new rotors for the front also, but am waiting until the current fronts wear out. They are drilled and slotted and zinc plated. Any tips/pitfalls to avoid on installing new rotors front or rear (or pads?). I am keeping the front pads (they are newer OEM type pads). Thanks!

Keep up the good effort and I am sure it will all come together. Then you have to document the whole thing so I can do it when my son inherits this car. I hope to see the finihsed project at some national or regional meet someday.

I have 20% in the rear 5 windows and 50% in the front 2. I've had darker tints on other cars but they create lots of relfections at night and make visibilty poor (IMHO). The rear is dark enough that the fronts seem darker than 50% when viewed with the light/sun behind you. Plus, the factory windows have some tint to them in most cases, making actual %'s slightly "lower." The Sunroof trick mentioned by MrSypher is a good one when you have to slide up next to Johnny Law (or he to you). I have bronze tint, but you get the idea. This picture was taken with the California Sun coming full through the front windshield. Good luck!

It works on my '93.

Hey Big G-All that kind of info is covered in the owners manual that came with the car. If you don't have one, they are available from Lex dealers and on Ebay pretty cheap. :)

Sorry if I came off too critical. Let me rephrase: My 20+ years experience building and restoring cars is that Windex/glass cleaners work great on plain chrome (wheels, bumpers, trim). If you go to a classic car show, you will see hundreds of guys spraying Windex on chrome wheels to make them shine brightly in the Sun. It will remove brake dust, grime, etc. and indeed leave chrome very shiny. (I actually prefer Stoner's Invisible Glass for the windows themselves). For alloys, "mags", painted, clearcoated, and other more delicate types of wheel surfaces, I recommend high quality automotive brands formulated specifically for these wheel applications, like Meguiars, Mothers, etc. and staying away from products developed 40 years ago to clean stained sinks and floors. Just wanted to help avoid trouble. Good luck!

I got the E-Bay antenna kit and followed the instructions as well. I had to remove the motor as the old mast had broken off inside and I had to remove the old one first. In the end, it worked great and looks factory. Do a search of the LOC here and you will find many who have done this, attached pictures, etc. Be sure to grease it well before installing then use some lubricant on the antenna itself as it retracts and wipe away any excess. Should be fine. :D

Read the labels on what's in these things and then apply common sense! Also, trying to save a few dollars on materials you plan to spray on wheels that cost hundreds of dollars each to replace seems "penny wise-pound foolish." I use Meguiars products and have no problems.

I have had mine near a year. The factory lights lasted many years before that-I kept them just in case. I think all the brighter lights have shorter life spans. Is the one year the warranty term or the expected life? Seems short for the latter.

Paul C-What year is your car? Might want to add this info to your id so people know what car you have. I am considering the same brake upgrade (For the rears first). Are the Brembo rotors plated to resist corrosion? The ones I am replacing have corrosion and I want to get a replacement rotor that will not have this problem.

I had the ContiExtremes and they were very grippy in wet and handled well. They were a bit too loud for me at upper hwy speeds however. I have since upgraded tires and wheels and sold the tires on Ebay. If I lived in snow country, I would consider them-especially on a tighter budget.

Well, from my reading of the posts, the advice is to replace the piping coming out from the resonator to the muffler with 2.5" that is not as pinched. I have read posts where the resonators were removed and the new piping simply went straight into a Magnaflow muffler. It was a SC model on the LOC. Do a search and you can find it I am sure.

Here is the photo I believe: