Jump to content


OneDollarBob

Regular Member
  • Posts

    4
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by OneDollarBob

  1. Okay, so '92 ES300, the climate control went from perfect order to the next day no blower speed except maximum. So I ran searches here, and everybody says change the resistor--which I did. Now, I get low speed as well as maximum, but still no mid-range speeds. The digital control will go from low to high, but the blower stays on low on all settings except for maximum, at which point it goes from lowest to maximum. Is it possible I got a "compatible" part but not the correct part, such that it will work, but not to specification? The blower resistor was a wild goose chase: several parts places, two Lexus dealerships. I even tricked the Toyota parts dept. with a phony '95 Avalon which allegedly uses the same part as ES300. Anyway, I had to use a part from Niehoff, which looks exactly as the original, except the part number stamped on the flange varies at the last digit. It was sold as a '92 ES300 part. Is there another component that would affect mid-range speeds? The FSM mentions a "power transistor," and shows it is just below the blower resistor. Would this have any bearing? Thanks for any info. Otherwise, I guess it's off to the parts place one more time, or just straight to the electrical shop. Sigh.
  2. Tom, I have to ask, why wouldn't a key job on this car have anything to do with the door lock circuits? The 92 ES has a remote button on the key which directly interfaces with the automatic locks. If you download the manual from this site you'll see an entire section on programming this key--it is highly electronic and very much tied into the power lock actuators. I'm not being sarcastic, I just want to know what your perspective is that one should presume no electronic liability during a "key job" for this vehicle.
  3. Did you check the brake fluid level? You may have a small leak in the system. The fluid may just be right below the line and it takes the car cornering or braking hard to slosh it to one side or another inside the master cylinder and activate the sensor. If this is the case, I bet it does it on steep hills, too (not sure I'd want to be on any steep hills with leaking brakes, though!). I've also seen oil warning lights flicker on and off based on the same principle. The other likelihood is what Zocks said. On my old Lincoln, if the sensor connection to the master cylinder or parking brake was faulty, it wouldn't complete the circuit and the lower resistance would trigger the warning lamp. I'm sure Lexus' warning system would be similar, at least on earlier vehicles.
  4. Hi Debi. I'm not familiar with the physical characteristics of the ES transmissions, but depending on what part of the transmission housing, there's a possibility just that part of the housing can be replaced; but it's a labor intensive procedure which I'm sure involves disengaging the motor, exhaust parts, and maybe even other major components that are nearby (like steering or suspension, for example). It could just as easily be irrepairable and you'll have to decide if it's worth replacing the transmission. My guess is the cost if repairable could easily get to $1,000. From what I've read in the past on here, total replacement is not that much more. Also, I would bet some kind of trauma or stress caused it to crack, so I'd wonder if there's another issue with the car which led to this or if you just ran over something or landed in a huge pot hole recently. Not sure if age/high miles would ever result in a cracked housing under normal conditions. 270k is pretty good on one transmission--so replacement is likely on the horizon, anyway. If repair or replacement are not options, I guess you can keep adding fluid and let it die a slow death. That could mean a couple weeks, a couple years, another 50k miles, who knows? You just wouldn't want to be on the freeway if it decides to check out.
×
×
  • Create New...

Forums


News


Membership