srgilbert

Well it's time to send my cluster off to Jim Walker however I cannot figure how to get it out. I took off the (2) bottom screws and the 95 unlike earlier years does not seem to have screws at the top to hold it in. Can anyone help me to figure out what is holding it in? I tried pulling on the tabs on the bottom (perhaps 4 of them) and no budge. Thanks

To do this you need to pull the carpeting back by the console - correct?

Not sure if they still have them but I bought on line - Ebay for Densos - exact plug and play. I believe the fronts were around $75 each.

My car ended up fixing itself. A few days after the light came on, it went off after I put the car in second gear and went about 70mph. I guess there was something messing with the o2 sensors, and the high rpms blew it out. The cel hasn't come back. A 420 and a 430 can also indicate bad o2 sensors not just cat problems. You should check your o2 sensors before replacing the cats. ;) ← I did replace both front sensors and no difference - I'm told that the rears rarely go out. I am also told that the 95 and 96 cats do not last that long - perhaps a generalization. I would swap the rears from bank 0 to 1 however that is a mightly painful exercise.

I have a 95 with 113K and am pulling the P0420 and P0430 codes. The car passes emissions with flying colors. I'm thinking about using some Catco direct bolt on converters. I believe they are $155 a piece on most of the internet sites. If anyone has tried one let me know.

Perhaps I can help. I had a 91 when the cone let loose. I stopped at J&J Speaker Repair and Reconing Service at 7006 W. DIversey in CHicago. The phone number is 773 889 3498. I thought that the speaker was a lost cause but they repaired it for me and it waws like new. The cost was nominal - perhaps $50. I believe they also ship UPS.

idle is just fine - it's just the p0136 and p0420 codes.

Well _ just passed emissions testing HC .014 grams, CO .013 grams. In my state they do not have a standard on CO2 or NOx however CO2 was 79,900 grams and NOx was .019 grams. DOes anyone know if the ECM will set a check engine light with the CO2 or NOx levels as they are even though my state will not fail me? This is quite the mystery. The car runs just fine.

I am getting P0420 and 0430 codes which points to the cat or the rear sensor on Bank 1. If it were an upstream leak I would think that the 1st ox sensor would pick it up. I replaced both front sensors already as that was a cheaper way to determine if those which fail first could be causing the problem. I'll take it to the smog test station saturday after deleting the check engine light and see what happens. If I pass I will be really stumped....

Is the light back on again? I guess I can just use electrical tape to hide that light but I'd like to figure out what is going on. Seems like CATCO is one of the lowest cost direct fit options out there. ABout $155 a piece and I believe its like replacing a headlight - mind of well replace them both as the failure interval should be relatively colse.

I believe this could also be ECU related as the car runs just fine. Oddly enough the State of Illinois send me a card to have the LS400 tested. I'm thinking about deleting the code through a scan tool and letting them test it. I would think if the car passes this is a ECU problem - your thoughts?

Which brand did you use? Did you notice any performance improvement as well?

I believe there are direct bolt on cats available. As an example they are currently on Ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LEXUS-NEW-C...sspagenameZWD1V or http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/lexus-ls400...sspagenameZWD1V . I know very little about cats but these appear to be direct bolt ups. Going to the dealer is really out of the question. Does anyone have experience with either of these? I believe CATCO - another option is a major brand. Thanks quote=95LS400Bob,Aug 2 2005, 12:26 AM] You just have to look at Summit or somewhere like that and match some measurements that it will physically fit. Then a muffler shop will probably have to weld on flanges. Also some muffler shops might sell a generic converter. You are right on the used deals. A frined in town with a muffler shop said he has to keep close tabs on old cats he takes off and has to accoutn for them with the EPA. Some outfit comes around and buys them from him that has EPA approval. ←

I've replaced the front oxygen sensors and I am still pulling codes for weak cat on bank 1 or failed rear sensor bank 1. I spoke with my Lexus mechanic buddy and he shared that the 95 LS400 cats were a problem so when one that fails it is not a surprise at 100K miles. I understand that used ones are not allowed by EPA so I am looking for an aftermatket alternative. Can anyone help me on this? I understand that there are brands called Catco, Magnaflow and Copy Cat out there. Any advice on this one? Thanks - really tired of looking at that check engine light.

Looks like I have to replace at least one cat. Has anyone purchased an aftermarket cat and is so any probelms? If I get a p0430 which points to bank 1 can I get away with replacing just one cat? BTW I have replaced both front Oxygen sensors already. Thanks

Oddly enough the drive side rear sensor was throwing out a code until the long highway run. Now it seems as though that problem has gone away and I'm left with the p0420. I do not understand how the cats work however it's odd that I could run 300 miles without the failure....Is anyone aware of a fueal additive that will cause no harm but might clear up the cat problem? I only have 106K on the LS.

An update on my saga - I continue to get a P0420 code weak bank 1 cat on my 95LS400. I've replaced the front oxygen sensors with Densos and the problem did not go away. I took the car on a 300 mile trip last week after the ECM reset and the light came back on after 250 miles. I reset the ECM once again and I managed to get another 300 miles antil I hit town driving and the light came back on again . Today I planned to flip the rear sensors as suggested to see if the code goes to P0430 which will point to the other cat however I could not figur out how the rear oxygen sensors are fed through the frame - they are held in place with grommets to the body and I cannot seam to trace the wire after that to find the connector. I checked with Lexus and the cat is roughly $900 which is not an option. I'm finding that used ones do not seem to be available through junk yards due to EPA .... Any thoughts? ANyone with the same experience? THANKS!

I purcahsed a used one for under $150 on car-part.com which came with warranty. This ECU change made a dramatic improvement in my 95 LS. I called the Florida guy. They want $325 to reprogram my existing ECU. Since I'm not really driving it on long trips right now, and since I'm the only driver, I'm holding off for now. I'd really like to find a used one. If anyone has any leads on where to find one, that would be great. If I don't find anything after a month or so, I will probably send my ECU off to FLA for a vacation. However, I'm not really excited about being without a car for a couple of days, nor am I looking forward to spending $325 to upgrade an old part. ←

I tried sealing my 91 and that was a big waste of time. If you plan on keeping the car just get a new one - don't even consider used.

Excellent idea - will do - thanks!

I have replaced both front oxygen sensors and the P0420 code continues to come back on my 95 LS400 with 104K. I have erased this code multiple times but after 10 miles or so the check engine light comes back on. I understand it is rare to have the rear oxygen sensors fail and am surprised that the cat (bank 1) would go out at this mileage. Does anyone have thoughts as to how to isolate this problem? I hate to throw a new cat on it.

If the fuse is good and there is still no power it is possible that you burned through a fusable link which is located on the back of the lighter receptacle. If you take an ohm meter you should be able to isolate it. I soldered a small wire across the link which is still backed up by the fuse and saved probably $150 at the dealer. Good luck

I guess my first question is if you have used the correct number. You may want to revisit the thread to get that number. From what I remember I was unable to move the shock on its own. When the shock was mounted properly the hood was just the right weight to push it down. My replacement went smoothly -

THANKS - Happy Thanksgiving!

Let me ask as I'm afraid my question got lost in this thread. What is the correct orientation for the Mighty lift shock - in other words which end goes up? Thanks!