gbhrps

You asked, and this older driver will respond. First, an ES 300, like all Lexus and Toyota vehicles, is pretty much bullet proof. Yes things will need to be fixed from time to time, that's just the way it is with owning a mechanical device as complex as these cars are. And that's my point here. Some replacements are VERY expensive, when compared with other, less expensive cars on the market. As is the insurance for a first time driver. You really should be considering a much less expensive ride for a number of reasons as well as these. My advice is to get a good, reliable Toyota, Mazda, or Honda. An older model from the same year will cost you a lot less to own and run. Save your money for your education to get you to where you need to be, and then when you score that good job that you're happy with, and that will put you on the road to financial security, take another look at a Lexus. Don't rush in and find that you've bitten off more than you can chew.

Chances are that the answer is yes, but I can't say for sure. You will have to check the wiring connector on both to be certain. They should be the same if you expect to just swap them out. The only other 3 things that may be different, but not crucial, are the mounting brackets on each, the large plastic gasket/bezel where they exit the fender (and you should be able to just swap them over), and the ball at the top of the mast. If they are different sizes, they won't seal the water out properly when fully down. You can swap them over since they are simply threaded onto the final mast section (put in vice, wrap with leather to prevent scratches, wind off with vice grips). I did all of the following several years ago to replace the mast on my 90 Nissan 300ZX with a mid 90's Camry mast. Still works like a charm today, although about 3 inches shorter. Both Nissan and Toyota shared the same antenna supplier.

Its a Lexus, so parts will be more expensive than your average car to begin with. The cost of the compressor, an evaporator/dryer, refrigerant, labour charges and taxes quite possibly could add to more than $1000. It sounds reasonable to me. Why do compressors go bad? Usually its from lack of being used over the winter. Seals dry out, gaskets harden, and compressors don't get properly lubricated through lack of use, then the first time its used in the summer....everything has seized up, or the coolant has leaked out. I believe the coolant also has a lubricant in it to lubricate the seals and compressor, but if the system isn't used for a long time the result is premature failure somewhere in the system. Some late model cars, my wife's 97 for instance, automatically turn the compressor on whenever you use the defroster just to prevent premature failures, and to remove the moisture from the windshield. Check your owner's manual. It will say to use the AC system at least once every 2 weeks for ten minutes.

You don't tell us what year you have, but the manual for my wife's 97 shows 4 clips in the corners of the vent section above the radio. It sounds like you haven't released the 2 at the top yet. It also shows that there are 2 clips in the panel below the AC Unit just above the ash tray. It says "Using a screw driver, remove the panel. HINT:Tape the screwdriver tip before use." Those are the only instructions. Good Luck!

I agree. Use the parking brake every time you put the car in park, whether on a level surface or not. Right now all five of my vehicles are in the garage with their parking brakes on, and they are on level concert. In 39 years of car ownership I have never had an emergency brake system seize up or break....because I use them consistently...as described in the owner's manual. Use it or lose it.

Take your old mast to your Toyota dealer and compare it to what they have in stock. Pay attention to the diameter of the bottom tube section. You must match its diameter. Don't be too concerned if the new mast is longer or shorter by 3 inches or so, or if the top ball is the wrong shape and size. My 1990 Nissan 300 ZX presently has a 95 Camry mast in it. ( Toyota dealer is 5 miles away, Nissan dealer 70 miles) It was the same diameter on the bottom section, 3 inches shorter overall, and the top ball was much smaller. I put the top section in a vice, and using a piece of leather around the top ball (To keep from marking it) I used vice grips to unwind it (Its threaded) and installed my old top ball from the Nissan mast. Has worked perfectly from that day to this with no noticeable difference in reception at all. Toyota and Nissan, and I'll bet most Japanese manufacturers, all use the same parts suppliers. I'll bet you can buy it cheaper from another manufacturer, but maybe not as cheap as the eBay one. Good luck whichever way you go.

You don't tell us what year you have, so that will have something to do with the search problems you are having on getting an answer. If your car is a 97 to 01, and if you follow the outline given in the thread entitled "Rapid Turn Signal Problem Solution" found on page 7 of this forum, you will have your answer. And I know it works since I have had to do this to wife's car about every 6 months for the last 4 years.

The antenna mast is easily changed if you can get it out of the car in the up position. Unscrew the nut on the outside of the fender, the mounting bolts inside the fender well, disconnect the wiring harness at the motor, and disconnect the drain tube from the bottom of the motor. You may have room in the fender well to wiggle the motor and mast assembly out of the trunk. If not, you'll have to cut the mast assembly to remove everything. Before buying a Lexus antenna, check with a Toyota dealer for the mast. Take your old one in and compare it with their Camry mast assemblies. Compare the diameter of the bottom mast tube (must be the same and usually is), the length of the mast (should be close to the same length for proper reception distance), and the size of the ball on the top mast section. If its not the same size you can unscrew it, unscrew the ball from your old antenna, and change them over to ensure a proper water seal when the antenna is fully retracted. On the motor assembly is a tube that the entire mast assembly collapses into. At its top will be a screw to remove the retainer for holding the bottom section of the mast assembly when its fully extended. After you've removed all parts of the old mast, feed the whip of the new mast assembly into the tube, making sure that the toothed side of the whip points towards the centre of the motor body. You may be able to fully assemble the unit by pushing it in. More likely you will have to place everything on the trunk floor, turn on the radio, hook up the wiring harness, feed the whip into the tube opening, while someone turns off the radio. As the motor runs push the mast down until all sections are inside the motor tube. Attach your retainer screw to keep everything from coming apart, and turn the radio on and off several times to properly seat the mast. When you have it working properly, reinstall the unit inside thefender. By the way, most Japanese manufacturers use the same parts suppliers. That's why my 90 300ZX has a mid 70's Camry antenna mast in it. Reason?..Local Toyota dealer...distant Nissan dealer. Good luck!

Our only problem was at 68 000 km. The radio unit just quite working altogether intermittently over a one month period of time. The dealer replaced the unit under warranty. Car now has 142 000 km and runs like a top. Other than routine maintenance this Lexus is proving bullet proof, just like our previous two Cressidas.

Welcome to the Lexus fraternity! Aint it great to own a car that makes you feel so super, and to know the other guy in the car along side has a little drool going down his chin? Mods....my two cents worth....tint the windows dark, if you are prepared to be illegal in Ontario. It saves on the air conditioning, sun and snow glare and bleaching of the interior colours, but be proactive...look very carefully when making turns at night, because it does impair side vision. I almost ran over an old lady walking her dog during a rain storm one night while turning left. And when you get pulled over by our finest, put all the windows down on the driver's side of the car before he gets to your door. Don't give the officer a reason to have to squint into the back seat and nail you for the tinted glass s well as whatever he stopped you for in the first place. Winter mods...save your mags and get some grip. Buy a set of steel wheels and wheel covers and a darn good set of winter ice grip tires. It'll take the white knuckled driving out of winter, give you a set of mags that will look great for years, and extend the life of your summer tires. Might even save some sheet metal bending as well. Other mods....don't.... you have a classy car already. Save the dough for your insurance, maintenance, and the NEW Lexus you'll buy next!

Brake fluid absorbs water from the air and then distributes it throughout your braking system. At the calipers is usually where the damage is done by rust forming on the piston cylinder walls. Because the pistons move so little during actual braking, the rust never gets rubbed off, like it does on your rotors. It builds up and then seizes up the piston, hence your problem. This is why you should flush and replace your brake fluid every 3 years. Sometimes.....sometimes you can pop the piston out and using very fine steel wool, clean up the piston and the cylinder and be good for some time yet to come. Most times its not worth it, for the peace of mind, and the fact that you won't have to do the repair again. New or remanufactured calipers are the way most folks would go. Ensure that the system gets flushed and refilled with fresh fluid afterward. Good luck!

Yes, your local Toyota Dealer can service your Lexus, since it is really a gussied up Camry anyway. The bumpy tires when cold are most likely the fault of the tires flatspotting when they sit overnight. Sometimes its the fault of the type of cord that is used in the tire belts, and sometimes its just the nature of the performance tire that you have on the car. My wife's ES 300 has Michelins that don't flatspot. My 300 ZX's 50 series tires have one cord of rayon (I think that's it) that do flatspot overnight. Three miles down the road they round out and run smoothly. Just the nature of the beast. Check with a knowledgeable tire dealer to be sure, one way or the other. If you need to pump your brakes, you need the system checked out. Most likely they need to be bled (removes the air from the system). To cure a window rattle the door panel needs to come off and a search made. Usually the only expense is the time involved, since tightening a loose fastener is the culprit. The seat heater problem is either the switch itself, the wiring harness to it or the fuse. Personally I'd pull the switch and clean its contacts with electrical contact spray. Need more info on noisy moonroof. Is it mechanical noise on opening or wind noise and when? Power antenna is either lacking lubrication, the toothed cable is dirty, or it has ripped some of the teeth off of the geared whip. It is a complicated but not impossible DIY, IF you can get the unit out of the fender to take it apart. Even if it requires a new mast assembly, it is an easy DIY reinstall. Check your manual for the AC on when using defrost. If its like my wife's 97, its supposed to come on to remove condensation, and for making sure that the AC system is used in winter to keep all seals lubricated and prevent compressor seize up and fluid loss. I'm not sure what you mean by the NEEDLE in the odometer, since mine is digital. Get back to us and we'll take it from there.

I've addressed a very similar problem which may apply to the one you have. Its on page three of this forum under the thread title "Rapid Turn Signal Problem Solution". I hope it works for you. Understand that the body style started in 97 has the front turn signal bulbs replaced in the manner described. I can't say that the 93 body style turn signal lenses are removed in the same manner, or the latest body style as well (2002?). Maybe someone else can address that issue by jumping in on the thread. Good luck!

Have you had a scan done of your computer codes? This might give you the answer in short order.

No you don't need to use the most expensive brake pads on your car. You can use a cheaper alternative, but everything is a trade off. The cheaper ones don't last as long. The more expensive ones generally are so hard that they tend to make noise, and require a harder push on the pedal, but they do last longer. I suggest that you use the same pads that are presently on your car. You already know how they work (pedal pressure needed to stop in all circumstances) and how long they will last, according to your driving style. Unless you are unhappy with their performance, why change?. As to your rear pads, they usually last twice as long as front pads, because your front brakes do 60% of the stopping of your vehicle, and the rears only 40%. Yes, you can wait till you hear the rear pad warning fingers scream that they need to be changed, but you've already had it suggested that they may be close to that point, and how long was it that you last replaced them? With a 134 000 miles on the car, they have already been changed once, or they should have been. One more thing. Your ES 300 is really a high end Toyota Camry. I went to my Toyota dealer for the pads on my wife's ES 300 (Toyota is in my home town, Lexus dealer is 75 miles away), and they said I could use the same ones as the Camry. Put them on myself, they fit and work perfectly with the same pedal feel and stopping power, and I'll bet they were cheaper than at the Lexus dealership. Just my backyard mechanic's two cents worth.

Don't assume that you need a new battery and wiring. You need to get the car to someone who can pull the computer codes to tell you what needs to be done to get the engine running smoothly and starting immediately. If not a Lexus dealer, then a Toyota dealer (the car is really a top of the line Camry anyway), or a repair shop that you know can service Japanese imports. From what you write its obvious that you are not a backyard mechanic or do it yourselfer, so get them to check your brakes as well. Have them bleed the brake system too. As far as the radio goes, ask your Lexus/Toyota service people to check it out. It could be a simple wire unplugged, or in need of a new radio. I'm not aware of any aftermarket replacement units that can be dropped into the console in its place, due to its size. Maybe someone else has info on that. Toyota used to have a replacement swap program a few years ago, whereby you gave them your old radio to be repaired, and they gave you a remanufactured one to drop in for around $750 or so. Maybe that still exists. You'll have to ask. As far as the modifications go (advice from a 54 year old retired teacher coming here), save the money and use it for maintenance, tires, insurance, next car, or a house.

I'd be interested in the price of new Gold L emblems for the front and rear. The rest of the gold emblems on my wife's car are still great, but the L's are looking scruffy.

You don't say whether your local mechanic is a Lexus Technician, and I suspect not. I'd say that all he did was pull the wheels to check the brake pads and rotors and nothing more. He didn't pull the rotors to look at the speed sensor rings attached to the wheel hubs, I'd be willing to wager. Behind all of the rotors is a heavy toothed metal ring, much like a gear with square teeth. It turns with the hub and wheel. Attached to the strut is a sensor that is aimed at the gear and measures how fast the geared teeth are passing by. This happens at each wheel and the data is compared at the ABS computer. If it notices that one or more wheels is out of synch with the others, on goes the ABS. I would think that if you pulled all 4 rotors you would find that one of the rings is loose and needs tightening, the rings are rusty or corroded and need cleaning to true the system up, or one of your sensors is gummed up, loose or defective. Then again your ABS computer may be on the fritz. Some of this is a DIY, if you are handy and careful, and some is definately better left to the Lexus boys. Good Luck and hope this has been of some help.

You have four wheel disc brakes on an ES, and each wheel has one brake pad that has a small metal finger attached that points at the rotor. The idea is that when the pads wear down to the point where the pads should be replaced, the metal finger will contact the rotor making a squealing sound whenever the brakes are applied. This is the signal to get your brakes checked asap. Sounds like your problem. The only other time I've heard the same sound and it wasn't the "early warning finger", was on a car where the driver ignored the warning squeal, or the metal finger had worn off/fallen off and the brake pad material was completely gone, and the metal backing plate of the pad was scraping on the rotor. That guy's repair bill was astronomical.

First the gas mileage question:...were the platinum spark plugs changed at 60 000 miles? If they weren't you should notice a big difference when you put in new ones. Question for you,...why do you use premium fuel? My wife's 97 (Canadian model) runs like a charm on regular and goes like a rocket when you mash the throttle. Your computer will calibrate for whatever octane you put in the tank, so why waste money if you can use the cheaper fuel? My Subaru Outback runs fine on regular, and I see no difference when I put in premium, so I run regular. My Nissan 300ZX must have the premium to run at all, and the owner's manual as well as the writing on the fuel guage tells you so. As far as the steering rack is concerned, why not look for a used one from something with low miles. The Toyota Camry is the same car and I'll bet it uses the same rack. Try to find a used rack from the auto recyclers from a Lexus first, but then check out if the Camry one is interchangeable. I'm betting it is.

You need to have someone check out your charging system. You may just have corroded battery terminals or a bad ground. A cell in your battery may be bad, or as you say, your alternator may be bad. If it is, consider having an automotive electrical shop (you should have several local ones) who specialize in rebuilding alternators, starters, and small electrical motors for car heaters, etc. It may prove MUCH cheaper than getting a new or rebuilt one. Call and ask. They can even do the system check, and in most cases remove the old alternator, and rebuild it and reinstall it the same day. Good luck!

This is a suggestion that comes from my past, way back to 1973 to be exact. My wife bought a new Cougar that year and it had a rattling sound that seemed to come from the rear of the car, when travelling over railroad tracks or hard bumps. I searched for months and the dealer did as well. Then one day I found a half inch wide s shaped clip laying on the trunk floor. The trunk lid springs were two spring steel rods that clipped behind the trunk hinge on one side of the car, and crossed the trunk to the other side to be anchored behind the other trunk hinge. Exactly in the middle of the car the two rods touched each other as they crossed, and sure enough if you banged on the side of the bumper with your hand you could see them vibrate and rattle against each other. When the s shaped clip was put onto the two rods, locking them together the problem was solved. I don't know if your 95 has the same setup or not, but I just checked my wife's 97 and it does. There is a clip assembly in just about the same central location. Its worth taking a look at yours to see if its there and doing its job. Just a thought.

Lex3486: I didn't take the headlight assembly out of the car. It was the turn signal lens assembly, and you can't get it out by grabbing it anyway that you can on a 97 ES 300, since there is nowhere to grab it. You have to get something behind the lens assembly to pop it out. I'm sure there is a Toyota procedure for doing so, and I'd be most appreciative if anyone knew how it was done. As well, the front turn signal bulb in question has been changed in the past to correct the problem. It didn't. The problem was only corrected by stretching the spring contacts in the bulb socket, which as I said corrects the problem for about 6 months.

I have to agree. That was the first time and only time that the car has been back to the dealership since we bought it used from them. I was very pleasantly surprised, to say the least. The timing belt in my 97 Subaru Outback was in the $370 range, which was even more money than the Lexus, but reasonable. Reality checked in when my 90 Nissan 300ZX needed a timing belt....$1200 for parts, plus taxes (15%), plus 5 hours labour @ $78.00 and hour. That one got my attention!

I bought the actual Lexus manual for my wife's 97, and its a Godsend. If you can get one, bite fast. My local Toyota dealer (the Lexus dealership is 100 miles away) says that the only real problem they have experienced that is noteworthy, because it had them baffled (and at the time that they had only serviced the few Lexus cars that they brought for leasing, as they aren't a Lexus dealer), was the seat heater in an ES 300. Other than that, they said that an ES 300 was bulletproof. I would not sign off on your seat heater problem without satisfaction. It appears to be a reaccurring problem?