jet_a_jockey

Surely someone out there has had to replace thier spark plug tube seals on a ES300 before. I have the same question about tube seal replacement that LEEVIV posted but haven't had any luck finding out how to change them out. Specifically I would like to know how the new ones go back in because it's not very difficult to remove the old brittle ones but they're worthless by the time you get them out. If you look at how the old seals are in there, you need to take a punch or a flat head screwdriver, and bend 2 metal tabs back that are helping hold the seals in place. once you do that, then you can use the screwdriver to pop the old seals out. Be careful not to gouge the metal seat that they rest in. To put the new seals in, I used a big socket that was almost identical size to the seals, and then tapped them in by resting the socket on top of the seal. Once that is done, then take the punch and bend the metal tabs back over the seal. the end :)

sounds like a problem with the relay or the switch. take a look at a wiring diagram that shows you the circuit for the marker lights and check the main relay for that circuit.

That sounds really cheap. I think TOYOTA will use the same timing belt as the lexus dealer, but this price will probably be just for the timing belt replacement, not the water pump which is practical to replace while doing timing belt replacement. Yeah, with that kind of price they are only going to be changing that belt. They should still however let you know if you need any other things replaced as well. And getting the water pump done while they are in there isn't a bad idea. I would not be too worried about the "quality" of the belt. I've put dozens of various t-belts on different cars and i've yet to see a brand name belt that was of bad quality.

take a look at the underside of the engine, if its caked with grease or oil then keep searching for a car.

Try www.car-part.com . I got an engine for my 94 from a yard only a few miles from the house, just under 700 bucks out the door. The engine was out of a 97 model, and it was definitely not a direct drop in. I had to change everything on the top of the engine (fuel rails, upper intake, etc) to go with the old wiring and setup. I originally was going to get an engine out of an avalon, but they said that although it says its interchangeable, that in the notes it says that there is not a hole tapped in the block for some sensor. So be careful with what you get.

Do a search on car-part.com for it. If you can't find that specific part to search, then pick something else and find a local yard that has a lexus in it, then just call them and ask. That'd be alot easier than having one fab'ed up.

You might want to look at the OEM alternators for newer versions of Toyota vehicles that have the 3.0L straight 6. I think that is your motor but I could be wrong. The mechanical fit might be a match because the motor is based on the same platform. Perhaps they will have higher amperage too? I have read online that the new IS250/350's have a 100A OEM alternator. These cars are V6 motors so I don't think that they will bolt up directly. Regards, I've done some research on this, and apart from having an electrical shop do the upgrade, it looks like the newer highlander alternators are a direct bolt on. They are also 130amp, and can be gotten for 50 bucks from a junkyard :D Will keep you guys updated on how that goes. btw the engine is a 1mzfe (v6) Could you do me a favour? Can you find out for me what kind of alternator a Lexus IS 220D (yeah Diesel) from 2007 has as a stock alternator. I thought I saw it was 130A or something? I am looking to replace the stock alternator with a bigger one, somewhere around 250A. But I am having a really hard time to find a company which can provide me with one. Tried several companies already, e.g. HO alts, Ohio Generator, Iraggi Alts, etc. But totally without succes. :( Your best bet is to call a lexus dealership and ask them. I will keep an eye out though while I'm doing this to see if I can turn up anything . (ive never even heard of an is220d lol)

You might want to look at the OEM alternators for newer versions of Toyota vehicles that have the 3.0L straight 6. I think that is your motor but I could be wrong. The mechanical fit might be a match because the motor is based on the same platform. Perhaps they will have higher amperage too? I have read online that the new IS250/350's have a 100A OEM alternator. These cars are V6 motors so I don't think that they will bolt up directly. Regards, I've done some research on this, and apart from having an electrical shop do the upgrade, it looks like the newer highlander alternators are a direct bolt on. They are also 130amp, and can be gotten for 50 bucks from a junkyard :D Will keep you guys updated on how that goes. btw the engine is a 1mzfe (v6)

putting about 1500 watts rms into the car (94 es300) and slightly concerned about possibly needing to step up to a higher output alternator. Anyone know where I can find one? The only thing i've found so far besides the 80 amp OEM spec ones is a 90 amp at 200+ bucks :/

Not a bad idea to drop the oil pan and take a good look at the level sensor and also the pickup tube screen.

Sure, buying a new car would be nice. I'm not in the position to buy a new car now, though, so its not happening. And overall I spent about 900 dollars in total for a complete engine.

http://www.taprecycling.com/ All of your toyota/lexus parts you'll ever need. yes tap is good, i also checked ebay yesterday and found at least 10 auctions so theres another option. regulator price looked to be around 75-100 used and 125 or so new. lexus dealership can get it also for around 130 something.

The water pump is no light task. It involves removing the timing covers, belts, crankshaft pulley, timing belt. If you aren't prepared to remove all of those then I would take it somewhere to be done. With the 1mz another issue is that part of the water pump housing actually mounts slightly behind the backing plate of the timing cover (the metal one). But as an easier method to get around having to pull cam gears and stuff, I pulled the bolts out of the backing plate, then used a screwdriver to make a little room to slide the edge of the pump in. After you do this, you are going to need to know how to get the engine back in time also, becase the cam gears are more than likely going to be moving at some point. So if you aren't up to all that, I suggest take it to a mechanic. Most mechanics will put a new timing belt on free of charge or for a nominal fee, since it has to come off to get at the water pump anyway.

i have this same issue with mine. I'm still trying to find a window regulator for it, other than buying a whole door from the junkyard (they didnt want to part it out). Seriously considering blocking it in place until I can find a new one :D

update: over a month later, the weather has been kind enough to allow me to finish this project. Only had a few hangups, the PS mounting bracket was different, and changed over the air plenum +injectors+fuel rails, etc. Changed out a few sensors that were not the same type. Turned it over for about 30 seconds with no response, but then it fired right up. Smoked about 10 minutes, for the most part from the exterior of the engine and not the exhaust. Once all the grease burned off it was ok. No leaks and so far no codes or issues with sensors and vacuum hoses. It hasn't set any codes yet either. I only ran it about 30 minutes today, but tomorrow I'm going to take it on a drive and then I'll have a better idea, but so far I think everything went together disturbingly smooth.

If you can smell gas then your timing is probably off. Did you check both cams? The cam near the firewall is kind of tricky, it has a tendency to rock forward when the belt is being put on. I think its because at tdc its holding spring tension on the cam. Either way, pull the cover and make sure both cams are where they need to be, then you will know. I've been off 1 tooth with that cam gear and mine wouldn't start. Did you pull out any fuses before you started? I did not pull any fuses before starting and I do smell a bit of gas so hopefully you are right that I'm just off a tooth as that shouldn't be too had to fix. I guess I should pull off the upper timing cover and look again. maybe I it up. Thanks for the help. The rear cam gear was off, I didn't realize that there were two markings on that gear and I had used the wrong one. Good thing its a non-interference engine... all is good now it fired right up and runs perfect. awesome :)

synthetic also has twice the life of conventional motor oil. I've always run synthetic if possible, but often times with over 100k + miles it is going to leak much more than conventional oil. I've seen a few comparison tests online that showed the difference in wear by using synthetic instead of conventional, so i was convinced by that.

don't trust backyard mechanics unless you can verify that they know what they are doing. The timing belt change on this car is not insanely hard, but it is difficult for a total novice, since a few specialty tools are needed. If you can get in and out of the toyota dealership for 250 then you are getting a good deal, the belt itself is around 30 or 40 bucks iirc.

If you can smell gas then your timing is probably off. Did you check both cams? The cam near the firewall is kind of tricky, it has a tendency to rock forward when the belt is being put on. I think its because at tdc its holding spring tension on the cam. Either way, pull the cover and make sure both cams are where they need to be, then you will know. I've been off 1 tooth with that cam gear and mine wouldn't start. Did you pull out any fuses before you started?

I had this same problem with my 94 shortly after I got it, as well as a high speed wobble. new tires+balance and an alignment took care of it. It doesn't take much, just a rough bump or a pothole to throw your alignment out of whack, especially with low profile tires. I think one of the biggest killers of my alignment has been railroad tracks.

From my experience in replacing timing belts (never used oem belts either), the only time I'd have any rubbing noises coming from the timing belt area the timing belt guide ring (goes on after the belt, on the crankshaft) was not installed, which allows the belt to rub up against the cover. I've heard of similar issues if the belt guide has a very convex shape and put on backwards it can do similar things. Another consideration is possibly having the belt too tight, which can also bring some new noises out. I don't know exactly how much pressure the tensioner pulley on the 1mz allows but it could be an overtightening issue. Normally if a pulley is going out it makes more of a chinging type noise (or grinding) than rubbing sound.

Are you sure its coming from the cv axles? The only way I could see them making noise is obviously if they are worn out, or if the bolts that go into the transmission were loose. Make sure you check all of the bolts you had to loosen to change the axles. On my celica, I had a continuing issue with the bolts on the underside of the hub assembly coming loose due to vibration (from a wheel bearing going out) If your cv axle bearings were rattling, then it'd be more evident in turning than while driving straight. Another thing to check is the caliper bolts that hold the brake caliper and pads in place, as well as making sure you got plenty of torque on the cv axle nut (the big one on the end of the axles.

I'm getting a new head unit soon as well. I was wondering what your reason for going with the double DIN was? Do they offer anything other than a better fit?

your best bet is talking to a salvage yard. Their computer systems have an interchange that can tell you whether or not it will work. When I first looked for an engine for mine, it pulled up a motor out of an avalon. When i went to buy it, he said that there was a note that the avalon block was not tapped for a sensor (not sure which), so that it could be an issue. I ended up getting another lexus engine anyhow at the same price so I was happy :)

Good post. Just wanted to share that I recently did a waterpump replacement also. Instead of taking the back timing cover plate off, I just removed the bolts from it and then bent it slightly out with a screwdriver. This allowed the water pump to be removed and reinstalled without any problems, and saved me from having to break those cam bolts loose and remove the backing plate completely. (I actually ended up taking those loose later on when I was taking the top end apart, it took a 2 foot breaker bar and a 6 foot piece of pipe over it ^_^) The only other issue I had was getting the timing marks straight on the cam gears. The back one was kind of hard to check, and it kept jumping a tooth because of its position at TDC kept it rocking back and forth with every little move.