stjr

Hi All!

I've owned my HS for about a year now and absolutely love it! But I ran into a little "self-induced" trouble a while back. I was parking the car and did not realize how high the curb was. When front bumper cover hit the curb, the front bumper cover was pushed up a little; just enough to pop the bumper cover loose on the passenger side by wheel well where the bumper cover meets the fender.

I took the car to my friendly Lexus dealer. They told me that the bumper had to be completely replaced to the tune of $400+ dollars; not including painting (GASP!). They stated that the clips that hold the bumper in place fit into slots that are molded into the bumper cover itself?

I'd like to confirm that. So if any of you have an image of what that might look like,or have instructions for removing the bumper cover; that might help me understand how the cover is attached.

I seriously can't believe the cover would be constructed that way (well...that's my hope anyway).

Thanks!

Junior

Great suggestions Ian. And thanks for checking the manual operation of the door locks on your car. I will follow your suggestions and check everything out. I am considering documenting the whole process with pictures. We'll see how ambitious I get!

Thanks again!

Steve

Well mine are very easy to hand lock using the inside knob.

So maybe the handle assembly is worn out or jamming.

mine has 138K btw, but this may be more years and door uses than miles.

I Expect if you disconnected the handle assembly and try and actuate using the rod it will be very difficult.

Its hard to imagine its the solenoid is bad, but check any intermediate rods and pivots. I don't know what it looks like in there, but will look at the FSM when i get a chance.

Just a side note, i had the first year legacy and the handle assembly would go bad, several were replaced under warranty.

Out of warranty I couldn't adjust or fix. very strange. But buy a new handle assembly and rod, don't adjust or touch, drop in, worked great for some more years.

and the newer replacements did last longer.

Hi Ian;

Thanks...and you're right. NOW is the time of year I need to get this issue resolved; while the weather is mild (not 112 in the shade). And I believe I saw an entry some where in this forum that gave good instructions coincerning the removal of the door panels.

The car turns 9 February 2nd. And it's always been an "Arizona car". So I'm thinking the heat and (lack of) humidity is starting to take it's toll. Oh....I just turned 49,000 miles on it!!

Again...Thank You so much for your help! It was great talking with you.

Steve

i will hand lock mine to see what they feel like ....

Hello Ian!

Thank you so much for the quick response!

When I lock the doors manually using the interior "buttons", they turn like I'm moving them through "a thick grease". They do turn; but with some effort (again, only when the interior is hot).

I need a little direction for measuring the temperature of the car battery; are you talking "under hood" temperature or the actual temperature of the battery itself? If you're talking the temperature of the battery itself; I'm thinking you mean service temp?? Please let me know.

I will check the battery voltage across the terminals (AZ heat is known for "chewing up and spitting out" batteries. Typical battery life is 3 years; + / - 6 months). My current battery is about 2 years old. But the problem occured even the battery was new.

Steve

Well an interesting problem, not heard of this before.

So what can I say to help you?

When you say it 'sticks' can you feel abnormal resistance to locking by hand or by the key ?

IE is this mechanical?

Well i doubt it but have to ask..

So what happens when electrical stuff gets hot !!

Resistance increases, current flow goes down, bad connections get worse.

So first thing is to check you battery voltage, everything off and car sitting for a while, say 30 -60 minutes. Digital Multimeter, 20V range, note temperature of battery in case we need it later.

Waiting for your reply.

I'm the original owner of an '01 IS300. The following is something that just started happening last summer. When I try to lock the car after driving the car for an hour or more during a sunny, hot day, the car doors will not lock (using the remote). The lights do not flash and there is no "beep" telling me the car is locked.

I did some observations and noticed the following:

1. When using the remote to lock the doors, the actual interior door lock buttons appear to "stick" and are not being moved completely to the "locked" position by the door lock actuators. This situation happens mostly on the left front (driver's) door and left rear door (both at the same time).

2. If I lock the doors manually (when the door lock buttons "Stick") using the door's interior lock buttons, then hit the lock button on the remote, the lights flash and the "beep" is heard indicating the car is locked.

3. There appears to be no problem unlocking the car with the remote.

4. This problem always occurs when the car is in the sun and the interior gets hot.

5. If it is REALLY hot out (I live in Arizona) and I have the A/C on, the car's doors lock just fine using the remote.

I am hoping someone might have encountered this before and has an easy fix (short of "going to the dealer").

Steve

Mesa, AZ