Hites

What do you guys think would be a fair price? Anything I make would probably need a little modification to fit perfect.

i dont have a clue about price; id have to know how much materials cost you to give you an accurate price. what do mean by a little modification? some grinding of the edges (assuming you use stainless steel instead of plastic)? hole punching/drilling?

Like I said, it only comes online at wide open throttle. Any other time, it is still stuck in the intake tract. This is an obvious restriction and no good.

why would you need it at any other point other than wot? who races at half-throttle?

the intake/exhaust/ignition/valvetrain/mgt are very well engineered from the factory.

if the intake is very well engineered, then why do people report such great gains from doing the bfi? you have to be on crack to think the exhaust system is very well engineered. the damn thing is press bent, has pipes pressed together to merge them into a single pipe, and the manifold is absolute crap with one pipe coming in at a 90 degree angle. every thing else is quite well, though.

so has anybody seen any performance increases?

anybody used one for their sc4? did you see any performance gains by leaning it out at wot? how big?

why not the 92? its the lightest. btw, that mechanic is totally trying to screw you over mainly because he thinks you dont know jack *BLEEP* about cars since you mentioned a luxury car. just take it to a friend who knows what hes doin.

seems like there is interest in this...

told ya a "bfi store" would be an easy way to make money for somebody who can make quality bfi's quick and easy.

Hites, if you like, I will see if we have some scrap metal laying around at work. If so, I'll cut out the cover and fab up a frame to mount it too. You might have to cut the frame down though depending on how you do your box. I also have a cone filter element left over from my old 93 SC, all you would need is a maf adapter, wich I think I still also have. You could put the box around it. That is the way my 93 was set up. Let me know if you are interested.

is the sc3's air box and air intake track the same as the sc4's?

That supercharger is really a joke! Do we remember that tornado device? This is one of those too. Remember this, it takes four factors for the car to run: compression, fuel, spark and air. Having more air doesn't do any good if there is no fuel. More air and more fuel equal a bigger bang. Bigger bang will equal more horsepower. If in doubt, please buy "Maximum Boost" by Corky Bell. It's a great book. It explaint about forced induction(turbo). Bolts on won't get you 300hp. Put a 100 shot of nitrous in the car isn't bad idea. Install it properly and tune it too, nitrous doesn't like lean condition. Blueprinting your engine won't make it goes faster, but it will prevent your engine from coming apart at higher rpm...say 10k.

JPI

the 1 psi of boost that the eram makes would actually make the af ratio closer to being the ideal 1:14.7, since almost everybody who owns an sc4 knows that the 1uzfe runs rich at wot.

From what I've heard those Electric Superchargers work like nitrous. You only get a certain amount of time under boost, and then it has to charge.. Of course I have never seen one, riden in a car with one or want to. Just going by an article that I remember reading.

the electric supercharger i linked only comes on at wot and taps into the battery instead of the alternator. it never needs to be recharged. you fellers should really read everything on the site; i thought that it was just another ebay hunk of *BLEEP* until i read virtually everything on their site. after comparing the ebay ones to the one i linked, i noticed that the one i linked pushes 3 times as much air as the ebay ones. heck, heres some vids that are on their site:

http://www.electricsupercharger.com/eRAMvideo.mpg

http://www.electricsupercharger.com/eRAM%2...g%20explode.mpg

cams anyone? does anyone make?

thats what i would really like after the basic bolt ons, but no company will even make custom cams for the sc4 since it has a frickin gear in the middle of each camshaft :(.

so would anybody be willing to make me a quality one for a price? im only interested in the top, side, and bottom pieces; i can do the airbox modification myself.

were any performance gains seen by leaning out the af ratio with the safc? im assuming you used the apexi safc, correct?

what makes you say that electric supercharger is a joke? there are many dyno plots on the website varying from many different cars such as dodge dakotas, 911's, m3's, and mr2 turbos that show average gains of 6% (15hp in sc4 terms). did you even go to the website? it isnt one of those *BLEEP*ty ebay scam fan-thingies.

the 92 sc4 is rated at 250; at least thats what every automotive fact-based website ive ever visited says.

not 300Whp, just 300hp out of a 92 sc4. would exhaust, headers, and bfi do it? what about adding an eram (www.electricsupercharger.com) into the equation? lextreme.com has a desktop dyno example that shows a 40hp gain with just headers; any truth behind this?

...removed all of that insulation/padding on the underside of the hood? would the removal of all of that stuff reduce underhood temps slightly? is its only purpose for sound deadening?

285 on 9" wide. At +50 or less will rub without fender mods.

then wouldnt fender modification be also needed for the 10" if offsets are the same since the wheel is another inch wider?

No man. I think 285 is too wide. 275 should be safe. 265 will definitely be fine as long as your offest is +40 to +50.

you talkin about the 285 on the 9" or the 10"?

All of this depends on how much you've lowered the car if at all, but i'll give you a blanket answer based on near stock height. 17x10 with a 275-40, you'll need an offset around +43 to +45 which is available from several mfrs, going to a 285-series will require some trimming or rolling of the inner fender unless offset is mid forties to plus fifty.

so a 285/40 on a 17x9 with a +45 offset will work without body modification, right?

Are you going to need to make any fender modifications to make that size of tire fit on an SC? That is my biggest concern and why I started this post. I'm looking at a 17x10 wheel with a 275/40 tire. I don't want it to rub and I also don't want it sticking outside the fender.

i know i wont need any fender modifications because im buying the wheels and tires from the tire rack, so i know that they will fit without any major complications. supra offset is +38 but the sc's offset is +50, so the offset will be a major factor if your 17x10's will fit. i honestly dont know if theyll fit, but the tire rack doesnt offer any wheels with a 10" width for the sc.

how would a 17x9 with 285/40's and a +45 offset be in the back?

Should be ok.

good; had somebody telling me that 295/40's on 17x9's would absolutely destroy the tire, so i just wanted to be sure the 285 is still a go. thanks

All of the sc's are still just toyota soarers. how bout we have a forum for every year and trim level of sc?:chairshot:

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Is this thunk when you slow down from higher speeds, or when you shift into drive from park or reverse??

when slowing down from higher speeds.

the tranny in my sc4 makes a slight *clunk/thump* when it drops down into 1st; what could this be? is the tranny going bad? does it just need a fluid change?

how would a 17x9 with 285/40's and a +45 offset be in the back?

I would NEVER put a 295 on a 9" rim.

295 is the limit on a 9" width rim. that is the edge of the cliff and is pretty risky if you really want them.